Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA

[davidnolan]

for what its worth... esp outside... get a weed burner....  there will be times you aren't sure if the wood is damp or it is damp.... and its very very easy to dry out plywood with a few quick passes of the weedburner to drive out the moisture in the wood or to dry it if it gets wet.   you wont set your boat on fire....

I use mine a lot......    say its a cold night... just a pre heat of the panel brings it up quick and drives the moisture out.       

best time to glass is mid afternoon on a warm day when its cooling off and no direct sun...

[json]

David, this doesn't run a risk of warping panels due to moisture imbalance? If it did warp panels would it even matter? I will look into a weed burner, I am sure there are a multitude of fun things I could do besides this task with it.

[json]

$20 at harbor freight sold! Maybe this will save me on the cost of buying roundup too!

[davidnolan]

absolutely no warping of panels.....      Now if you throw a panel outside on the ground in warm weather,  it will warp as the sun heats the top and moisture from the ground enters the bottom and it curves upwards....

I use mine a LOT.   Even things like early morning dew that might be on your wood.... bamm   its gone....

[Brian.Dixon]

Weed burners are fun to have anyway ... even if just burning weeds! 

[json]

I haven't really posted much about my build (pics or otherwise), but what better time to start than now? Today I took some time out of my work day to epoxy stitch the fairbody. The only thing I have left to work on really until the Kodiak addendum is posted is the fairbody seam, so hopefully that isn't far out (rumor has it this weekend? ).

Quick question, as you can see in the third picture here, some of my panels got wet during the last rain. I don't think it's going to be a problem, but am hoping someone can weigh in with assurances that the panels aren't wrecked since they got pretty wet. I think they have dried out and seem structurally sound but I am worried that maybe they could have water ingress inside the panel that doesn't manifest until later when the panel is sealed in epoxy and the moisture rots the panels. Maybe I am just paranoid.

[Todd j]

If you can find what the BS1088 spec for marine plywood and read it may make you feel better.   It might be some reassurance.

[json]

Good call Todd. I am gonna look that up.

[Brian.Dixon]

Yeah ... water not the best additive to the boat project!  Let the wood dry thoroughly and give it a light sanding before adding glass and epoxy.  Water raises the grain a tad.  No worries on the glass and epoxy - and your wood is good stuff and won't care too much either, but still good to avoid water.  Speaking of glass, the sooner you get the top face (towards rain) of the bottom panel assembly glassed the better.  Seeing wet epoxy/glass feels better than seeing wet wood.  (BTW, it has happened to me too .... I even had some mildew growing on the wood ... chlorox, dry thoroughly, sand, and epoxy/glass .... nobody's the wiser )

Brian

[json]

Ya, it's cheap insurance to buy new tarps that you know don't have holes in them, lesson learned. They are pretty dry, I will give them a good once over with the sander and work on getting the assembly coated in epoxy at the very least.

[Rbob]

Json,

Not sure if you put box tape on the 2x4's but if not I would pull them and run box tape on the bottom and sides, resin will run underneath and...  I found this out  haha.

May I suggest:

If you have slow hardener I would use it for the fillets, apply the whole fillet and roll your dry tape right onto the fillet before it hardens. You can use a gloved hand to lightly press it down.  It will start to soak up resin. then use a roller to apply more epoxy to the cloth as needed, finish off with shower squeegee to move excess resin onto the hull.

Rbob

[json]

Oh, great point. Yes, I will put some box tape on them for sure, thanks for pointing that out. I just received 15 gallons from ebond with 5 gallons of slow hardener, so I will use that for doing the seam work. Thanks for the advice Rbob!

[Brian.Dixon]

Wow ... I've never heard of 'box tape'!  We use 'masking tape'... not the more expensive 'packing tape'

Brian

[json]

Quick google search says "Resins like polyester, vinylester and epoxy will not stick to polypropylene which means that once cured the laminating pattern, mould or part can easily be removed from the board.", I suppose that if masking tape did stick it would be easy enough to scrape off, but good to know that box tape would not stick (in my previous life working as a mover I was exposed to way too much box tape).

[Brian.Dixon]

I looked it up.  Box tape is what we call 'clear packing tape' around here.  I think the glue that's on the tape is what the epoxy runs into when it drips through a seam.  Masking tape peels right off after curing.  Probably the same glue as the clear packing tape.  We also just call it 'packing tape', and if we mean the kind that has the fiberglass in it, then it's either "fiberglass packing tape" or "strapping tape".  What part of the country are you in?  Do you say pancakes, hotcakes, or griddle cakes? 

Brian