Author Topic: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK  (Read 66258 times)

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Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #90 on: June 16, 2019, 12:23:35 PM »
Brian, I'm quite sure the outboard anodes are tied to the engine neutral wire, so that part is taken care of by the manufacturer. They may not have a direct wire connection, but they're attached to the metal structure of the motor, and that same structure is bonded to the engine neutral bus. For that reason (engine anodes being the ultimate end-point of the neutral/ground/bonding circuit), I prefer to connect the engine neutrals to the common neutral bus rather than the start battery. Does this jive or am I missing something?

For those building hulls now or in the future, plan out your wire runs now! A good one is getting equipment on the port side energized - creating a wire chase while you're building the hull/cabin would be easy, save time in wiring, result in shorter wire runs, and be a lot less work. I would recommend such a chase from SB to port just inside the floor of the V-berth, essentially extending the cabin floor a couple inches into the V-berth space, so wires could be run through the V-berth lockers to the port side.

Djeffrey

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #91 on: June 16, 2019, 12:57:07 PM »
Thanks Dan, great info, however my head it already hurting and I haven’t even started electrical yet. Going to start reading now, so in six months I will have a clue what I am doing. When you get a chance can you post pics of your components i.e. buses, fuses, that coincide with your diagram. I’m very visual and diagrams sometimes cause me brain strain until I can put a picture to it.  I can plug some of your pics into the diagram already. Thanks again. Can’t wait for the wet pics of the boat

Brian.Dixon

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #92 on: June 16, 2019, 04:07:32 PM »
Brian, I'm quite sure the outboard anodes are tied to the engine neutral wire, so that part is taken care of by the manufacturer.

 They may not have a direct wire connection, but they're attached to the metal structure of the motor, and that same structure is bonded to the engine neutral bus. For that reason (engine anodes being the ultimate end-point of the neutral/ground/bonding circuit), I prefer to connect the engine neutrals to the common neutral bus rather than the start battery. Does this jive or am I missing something?

Yes, but for all manufacturers and ages of motors?  All modern motors, probably going back several decades at least into the earlier half of the 1970s are done as you describe as far as I know.

As for engine wires, it's OK to do as you have done (as seen in your photo above) as long as both hot and neutral are the same gauge AND the ground buss is rated for the ampacity of those wires.  People generally try to minimize connections on the motor wires because connections can get hot and cause issues, and fewer connections means fewer ways for your engine to not start.  Otherwise you're fine ... I already know you're the kind of guy that'll keep all of the above in tip-top clean and working shape.

For those building hulls now or in the future, plan out your wire runs now! A good one is getting equipment on the port side energized - creating a wire chase while you're building the hull/cabin would be easy, save time in wiring, result in shorter wire runs, and be a lot less work. I would recommend such a chase from SB to port just inside the floor of the V-berth, essentially extending the cabin floor a couple inches into the V-berth space, so wires could be run through the V-berth lockers to the port side.

Good advice!  Read the material ahead of time ....while your epoxy is curing!

Brian
The Great Alaskan - Professional performance - Easy to build! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?>

Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #93 on: June 16, 2019, 11:19:26 PM »
Mounted the trim tabs and transducer today. After I run these cables most of the way, I'll start installing antennas and other electronics equipment. When all the wires are run I'll tidy up all my wiring and take more photos. All the zip ties are still loose and things are not going to be finalized until the electronics are in and functional. Found some 3M adhesive zip-tie anchors with a 50-lb pull rating, so am trying those on the transom wire runs. They look promising...we'll see how they fare in the sun and salt......

Now I can also start planning out the port side swim step and ladder, but that can wait, I want all the electronics mounted and wiring finalized first.

Brian.Dixon

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #94 on: June 18, 2019, 05:00:42 AM »
It's amazing how much time can go into wiring.  The devil's in the details, and there are a lot of details!  You're doing bristol work though and you're boat's really turning out to be fantastic ... great times ahead!

Brian
The Great Alaskan - Professional performance - Easy to build! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?>

Todd j

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #95 on: June 18, 2019, 10:16:19 AM »
Thanks for sharing with the rest of us   

Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #96 on: June 20, 2019, 11:36:17 PM »
The past few days have demonstrated to me how "non-standard" anything marine is, to a very frustrating and time-consuming level. I'm still a bit in shock. First, went to mount my Simrad HS60 GPS compass. It comes with a bracket that allows it to be mounted to an antenna base. However, the back of the bracket has a slot and large hole (1st photo). The antenna base will be open to the inside of the boat where the cable is routed. There is now way to seal this hole. It faces aft, yet I know way too much about wind-blown rain and snow, and feel strongly that water would fairly easily find its way in there. I could have put some gorilla tape over it, but it's very against my grain to start band-aiding things together on a new build. So I researched more and came to a dead end. I don't want to mount it flat to the roof because it looks goofy and for other reasons. So I finally tossed in the towel, drew a sketch, and sent it to my friend who runs a metal fab shop (2nd photo). I'll have the custom mount early next week, tilted at the perfect angle, so several problems are solved at once. Powder-coated white it will look nice next to the radar mount. Good grief!

Next up was VHF and AIS antenna mounts. Should be pretty straight-forward, yes? Well, I like to use acorn nuts rather than normal nuts when exposed inside the cabin, so that means you get to cut all the bolts to juuuust the right length. So I did that, and the front worked out pretty well, but for some reason the roof thickness varied by 3/8" between mount positions (!?) so I got to cut 4 of the bolts twice. Plus when I torqued them down the foam compressed on top and the 1/4" interior skin gave a hair, so I got to cut all 8 bolts one last time. Good grief!

Now the fun part. I screw the antenna down, and when it bottoms out on the mount, the cable stuck out at exactly the wrong spot - gets in the way of the handle both up and down. So I stole the 1" lock nut from the GPS compass mount and used that as a jam nut for the AIS antenna mount. The VHF mount I just wrapped the cable around the backside and that worked out good enough. Seems like they should come with a 1" jam nut or a set screw....and I almost drilled and tapped for a set screw but I decided against it.

Next I tried 2 brands of cable seals. Blue Sea, which is typically top shelf, requires you to drill your own hole through the rubber grommet. This is difficult to do well (I know from other experiences drilling holes through rubber), plus they are bulky, so I returned those. ScanStrut makes a nice one, but their hole size that fits VHS cable is just a hair too loose. So I had to wrap the cable with self-sealing silicone tape where it passes through the gland (photo 4). That worked well.

So the photos show the saga. I always like to countersink any holes in fiberglass before bedding any equipment (photo 3) - it helps avoid spider cracks and gives the sealant a good place to bed. I also bed the head of any bolts in sealant so water doesn't migrate down the bolt shaft and weep into the cabin (photo 4).
« Last Edit: June 24, 2019, 12:25:37 AM by Dan Boccia »

Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #97 on: June 24, 2019, 12:14:58 AM »
Got all the electronics equipment mounted and some of the wiring complete. Helm area is coming together. Fussy work trying to find space for everything, including all the cable routing......but quality gear. I've got a pretty comprehensive package, most of it Simrad:

- 12" display
- Totalscan skimmer sonar mounted on transom
- 4G radar
- autopilot
- AIS (transmit and receive) with its own VHF antenna
- Precision 9 GPS compass mounted ~ waterline just under the floor near the helm
- HS60 GPS compass mounted on the roof
- VHF radio with its own VHF antenna

The display felt low, with the bottom blocked by the wheel, so I raised it up 1 5/8" using cut brass nipples as spacers. I moved it left of center on the helm so none of the screen blocks my view over the gunwale forward, plus others can see the screen better and it will be easier to see from the back deck when we're fishing. I was thinking I could have gotten away with the 16" screen.....which would have been quite the overkill!
« Last Edit: June 24, 2019, 12:26:28 AM by Dan Boccia »

Djeffrey

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #98 on: June 24, 2019, 07:06:52 AM »
Very nice. You must be close

Brian.Dixon

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #99 on: June 24, 2019, 07:57:37 AM »

Wow... as always, extremely professional work!  Very nice set of gear too ... 12" screen is plenty!

Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional performance - Easy to build! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?>

Djeffrey

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #100 on: June 24, 2019, 08:19:13 PM »
Dan did you install an alternator protection device in your boat?

Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #101 on: June 24, 2019, 11:00:12 PM »
Dj -
I have not installed such a device. I read up on the Sterling Products offering and see how that could be a good deal, but it involves routing a pair of wires up to the engine, and doing some wiring inside the engine, all of which may/may not void the engine warranty, and it's a hassle figuring out how to seal such a wire as it runs into the engine compartment.

I'm going to pass on this opportunity to add any further items to the electrical system :)
Thanks!
Dan

Todd j

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #102 on: June 25, 2019, 06:32:27 AM »
Dan, have you named her yet?  Do you have a splash date yet?

Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #103 on: June 25, 2019, 12:07:23 PM »
No and no. A name has not yet developed, and although I'm very close, my schedule for the upcoming month is nuts. I'm about 2 hours away from the water, with a drive through a one-way tunnel, launch fees, etc. so launching is not all that casual, I'll wait until I'm good and ready.

Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #104 on: June 28, 2019, 12:39:15 AM »
Back in August, I figured the boat would weigh between 4475 and 4625 lb, all outfitted.
Today, I drug the boat back to the house (shop space lease is over) and ran it over the scale on the way, and it weighs 4495 with everything except the anchor system in place (dry), so I'm on the low end of the target range, which I'm very happy with.

Additional weight will be safety gear, tools, spare parts, dinghy, pot puller, etc. but it's useful to compare the boat weight outfitted and dry without all the "extras".

I probably won't get much work done on it until early August, my schedule is full of guests all through July, and it's time to go dipnetting tomorrow :)