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Messages - Brian.Dixon

Pages: 1 ... 94 95 [96] 97 98 ... 178
1426
Did you use a combination of models? From what I can see you used the cuddly cabin of a prince Rupert and the main cabin is a Newport design.

FYI - There is no reason you can't mix and match, or tweak the various models to be all your own.  That's one of the reasons for building your own, optimal for YOU, boat.

Brian

1427

I'm glad you're making progress in spite of those house duties ... don't I know how that goes!  All that work you're putting into the door, the well thought out details and the effort you're making to make sure the door frame and door are flat and square, is going to pay off.  With the seal around the door, you'll cut a lot of noise - probably will have the quietestl GA pilot house out there!

Brian

 

1428
Introductions - Are you new here? Say hello! / Re: Older new guy
« on: August 08, 2019, 04:32:52 PM »
I checked it out ... very nice blog!  Wish I could go there!

Brian

1429
Brian, do you have any pictures or is there a thread here on this site that shows Adrian's design for his walk-through cuddy cabin?

The walk-through idea that Adrian used was a (more or less) copy of a commercial version that he saw.  Not sure what the boat was though.  The only pix I have are in the carousel on top of my web page.  You can try contacting Adrian at http://www.topnotchmachining.com if you like.  That's his company.  It's in the Gresham/Troutdale area east of Portland, Oregon.

Brian

1430
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Sheer decks
« on: August 08, 2019, 04:28:20 PM »

As long as you fill that bottom corner with a fillet and glass from sheer deck over the extension ..over the fillet and onto the boat side.  The glassed sheer deck-to-side seam is part of the boat's strength.  The sheer experiences flex that's best backed up by glass to give it anti-crack strength.

Brian


1431
I get 128.8 gallons as well.

      31x8x96 + 31x(4/2)x96

=> 31x8x96 + 31x2x96 = 23,808 cu. inches

=> 23808 x 0.004329 = 128.8 gallons

bd


1432
Good choice.  The tube-type door seal works best (versus foam or other ideas).  It's forgiving and works.  :)

Brian

1433

Looking good and doing a great job ... Say, that's awfully pretty wood that your boat/deck/superstructure is made from.  Is it Okoume?  Maybe you should finish the whole boat with varnish :D

Brian


1434
Fiberglasssupply.com look on the net or call.  I often get stuff the next day.  Been  great to deal with so far.  I talk to Rich.

Ditto on Fiberglass Supply ... http://www.fiberglassSupply.com .  They're my go-to company for glass and fillers.  They're in the Seattle area.

Brian


1435
That's odd about the glass.  It's probably been treated with a wetting agent designed for a particular type of resin ... and not the standard product and/or treatment.

You can launch by then, no problem.  Just bring oars....  :o ;D

Brian


1436

Do you have some other 10-oz cloth to compare to?  There is a type of cloth called "finishing cloth" that has finer yarn and a tight weave .... it's designed to lay flat and have a smooth texture that is easy to finish to a smooth surface (that means "might be done after just one fill coat").  What I do *NOT* like about finishing cloth is that it won't follow a bend (like on a seam) very well and if you dare wrinkle it, the wrinkly shows through the finish later ... tough to get flat and must be faired out with a fairing mix.  Now, if you're just glassing a large flat surface such as the decks in the boat, or the interior surface of hull panels, before installation, then the stuff works fine.  You might save it for that kind of work, but normal woven fiberglass will be a lot nicer to work with on those hard corners. 

Now ... since you likely have biax curing away right now and didn't get to use woven glass on top of it, wet on wet, you likely will have hard ridges (the knitting that holds the two layers of glass together in the biax) to fair in.  The quickest way to get rid of the knitting on biax is to scrape it off with a good (Sandvik or similar) carbide scraper ... the knitting is not structural.  Scrape it off, add a fill coat, then put your next layer of glass right on it.

Brian

PS: If you lose the 2 months this Fall, choose to be OK with that ... something about trying to get in a hurry invokes Murphy's Law and mucho paino.... relax and give the boat your best, and be OK with losing a couple of months or go find another handy helper to help you turn over the hull (or be creative with chain hoists as many others have done).


1437
On the north jetty there is a concrete entry/exit where you can walk into the bay.  I hear it was part of old cannery.  Anyway, from there we swim inland to a 50 foot deep hole.  It shallows up as you find your way to the center of the river.  Chase them around and come back the same way.  There are some old pipes so it’s easy to tell where your at.  I have a video of this dive on my YouTube channel. 
   I only got 5😢.  It was fun to get wet.  I’m used to about 100 dives a year.  Since I started the GA I have dove twice.

5 is more than I have!!

Your GA will be your new dive platform.... :D

bd


1438
Maybe this will help.  Have you considered having a talented upholstery wizard simple turn your cushions into a wedge?   At least you wouldn’t have to tear that new boat all apart.  Sounds reasonable

Or maybe build a wedge/sloped platform that'll just lay on top of the existing bunks for now, and when you think you've got the appropriate slope figured out, then build it in permanently.  Try before you buy....

Brian


1439
Hard to find time to do much of anything.  Got the bottom nearly glassed.  Just need to get a stripe down the keel. Took the night off.  Headed to Florence to dive up a dozen dungeness!

Are you diving around the docks?  We've pulled up some nice ones just sitting in lawn chairs down on the dock (I've got a favorite spot :) )

Brian


1440
Todd, I just reviewed Brian's construction sequence, and he has the bunk tops built parallel to the top of the stringers, essentially. Given that the boat will always sit with the stringers higher forward relative to the water surface, I think this is an oversight. Everyone I know sleeps with their head aft, and nobody likes to sleep with their head downhill, so I dearly wanted at least a 4" net elevation change from aft to forward, but someone, either Brian or Anthony, talked me out of it. I knew it then, and I proved it now, so it's mine to own and yours to contemplate! I made the final call, so if I want it changed it will be me that makes the painful change!

Probably Anthony talked you out of it ... or at least I remember no such conversation!  In any case, the bunk tops were make parallel to the stringers as a best compromise.  Depending on boat length v. loading, some Great Alaskans will trim a little low at the bow when people are sleeping, reversing the slope that you experience.  This is why I suggest some downward slope aft to help the cockpit remain self-bailing regardless of loading.  These are light boats for their weight (why you get double the gas mileage compared to others).  It's nearly impossible to predict night time trim with people sleeping onboard.  With your long house and healthy motor, your trim is the other way .. a tad higher at the bow, hence your downhill sleeping experience.  So ... If you're going to sleep alone most of the time, then do what ya gotta do with those bunk tops.  I'd probably just cut out the tops, add sloped spacers, and put on new tops.

Brian

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