My Official build thread. 27 1/2’ GA

[Todd j]

The swim deck is in addition to the 27 1/2’ hull.  I was hoping I could put a sturdy platform onto what length of stringer I have sticking out with a nice bit of hang over.  All this pending the Outboard  won’t hit it

[Todd j]

Today I taped my chines.  You Kodiak guys have your work cut out for you!

[Brian.Dixon]

Good idea.  I was concerned about “stuff” too close to the bottom

Stuff on the back of the transom won't affect planing since it's all out of the water when on plane.  A couple of knees doesn't add any appreciable weight.

Brian

[Todd j]

I measured my buddies Honda 150 at its widest point lock to lock.  It needs 1/2” more than the inside clear. I have decided to knock off the stringers and put a swim platform on the starboard side.  Nothing to worry about hitting. 

[Brian.Dixon]

I measured my buddies Honda 150 at its widest point lock to lock.  It needs 1/2” more than the inside clear. I have decided to knock off the stringers and put a swim platform on the starboard side.  Nothing to worry about hitting.

Another idea is to put the outboard on a bracket that moves it further aft, and maybe shortening the swim platform and otherwise use your original ideas.  This may put the widest swing point just behind the swim platform. 

Brian

[Todd j]

That's a good idea.  I did look into a jack plate.  Not a ton of money considering the entire cost of the build. I may trim off the port stringer and try to save the other.  Mounting the kicker to the transom instead of the design I submitted a ove would presumably partially offset the cost of jack plate

[Todd j]

After measuring a couple outboards and some more noodling and one more bonking my noggin I cut the stringers off flush with the transom.  I think I will mount my kicker on the transom as well.  I intend to put a platform on the starboard side with a tubular kicker/brace to support the aft end from the transom.  One great thing about this construction method is the ability to to about anything without too much disruption in the build process.  Thanks to all that played along!

[Brian.Dixon]

After measuring a couple outboards and some more noodling and one more bonking my noggin I cut the stringers off flush with the transom.  I think I will mount my kicker on the transom as well.  I intend to put a platform on the starboard side with a tubular kicker/brace to support the aft end from the transom.  One great thing about this construction method is the ability to to about anything without too much disruption in the build process.  Thanks to all that played along!

Yup, you can bolt a swim platform onto the boat too ... no need to use the stringers.  Just follow the instructions in the manual on transom weight, including the down-grading of motor weight for bracket length and weight.  Gotta keep the CG in the right window.  I know of one guy who didn't, regretted it, fixed it .. that costs extra money and doesn't make anyone happy!

Brian

[Todd j]

I found some time to glass the side panels yesterday.  Starting at 7 pm was a bit of a mistake.  That’s when temps in the shop started to cool down, so that was a luck coincidence.  I can’t believe how much epoxy I have been blasting through!   If I get a second wind I might tackle the bottom panels. 

I followed(I think) the instruction manual to lay out the rails before I glassed the sides.   I have pretty sweet battens and no way was it it going to bend around the front third of the boat.  I finally layed on flat and tacked it to the hull to get the bend.  It was a rascal

[Todd j]

Hi Brian, got a question.  Is the Newport spray rail the day profile as the rock port?  It looks like it, but there are a couple dimensions missing on the specific Newport detail.  Thanks

[Brian.Dixon]

Hi Brian, got a question.  Is the Newport spray rail the day profile as the rock port?  It looks like it, but there are a couple dimensions missing on the specific Newport detail.  Thanks

Yup ... the spray rails for the Rockport and Newport are identical.  Looking at Sheet 012 and Part 1 (of 2) Construction Manual, page 107, I'm not sure what measurements are missing?  Let me know and I can get them for you and can update the manual or drawing.

Brian

[Todd j]

All dimensions for the rockport are plainly spelled out on 012. Maybe since intended to be straight rather than bent.  The two piece spray rail for the Newport looks identical,  it is missing two of the dimensions that are included on the detail for the rockport.  They do however look identical.  If I read closer it may have been made plain in the manual.
   I’m not nitpicking, just needed some clarification.   Thanks for the reply. 

Todd

[Brian.Dixon]

All dimensions for the rockport are plainly spelled out on 012. Maybe since intended to be straight rather than bent.  The two piece spray rail for the Newport looks identical,  it is missing two of the dimensions that are included on the detail for the rockport.  They do however look identical.  If I read closer it may have been made plain in the manual.
   I’m not nitpicking, just needed some clarification.   Thanks for the reply. 

Todd

BOTH the Rockport and Newport use the same spray rails and dimensions/offsets.  The Prince Rupert, however, is different.  Instead of having a long curving spray rail from stem to stern, it just has a perfectly level spray rail along the aft third of the boat - this is for style more than anything.  Since the spray rail on the Prince Rupert doesn't go all the way forward, it's a good idea to add the aux. spray rails along the chine on that hull (I actually recommend it for all models).  The Prince Rupert has instructions in the manual for the offsets.  Actually all models need both Sheet 012 and the manual together to get it figured out .... I need to simplify this - it's confusing.

Brian

[Todd j]

I think I might have got my "which boat starts with a R" mixed up.  Going from memory while away at work.  Either way sounds like we've got it covered. 

[Brian.Dixon]

I think I might have got my "which boat starts with a R" mixed up.  Going from memory while away at work.  Either way sounds like we've got it covered.

Perhaps, but you made a valid point on Sheet 012.  It shows vertical offsets from the chine, but not the horizontal.  You have to read the manual for that.  My philosophy is that drawings ought to be as standalone as possible, and the manual should just expand on otherwise-complete information that's in the drawings.  I need to update the 'Kodiak v. the Standard' drawing so that the differences are shown better... might as well update Sheet 012 as well.

Brian