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Topics - xrayengineer

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16
I have a nice stainless steel anchor roller, around 18" long and windlass.  I thought instead of "adding on" an anchor pulpit to bolt the anchor roller onto, I could just make it when I loft out the shelves.  I would make it come out about a foot or so to make sure my Delta plow anchor does not hit the bow stem when coming up.  What do you think?  My picture is super cheesy, but I think you will get the idea.

17
I am a little confused about the spray rail installation.  On sheet 12 I have a few questions?

First, why does the Prince Rupert have different specs for spray rails than the other 2 boats?  Just curiosity....My boat is going to be a Newport style.

Second, please look at my pictures and let me know what you think about my confusion of the spray rail locations.

I was assuming the bottom spray rail would be installed right where the side panel meets the chine flat.

18
I got this bracket last week, a brand new one from Stainless Marine.  (it was leftover stock from a distressed boat dealer).  It has a 30 inch setback for the outboard, the swim platform is around 77 inches wide.  The "air chamber" for bouyancy is around 4.3 cubic feet, but not all of that would be underwater.  I would guess a little over 3 cubic feet will be under water at all times.  I may make a couple of "saddle tanks" for either side if Brian thinks it needs more buoyancy. 

Sweet!  A full transom boat!

19
With some spare time last week, I build this livewell using a fiberglass mold that I made.  It is going to go dead center of the fishing deck so that anyone can go get live bait without bothering anyone else.  When I get closer to plumbing this in, I will have to get help on where to put the high speed pickup scoops for the pumps.  I will need one for the bait well pump and one for the saltwater washdown pump.  I wonder if you can just put them anywhere along the "keel" about a foot from centerline....?
Livewell has about 5 layers of glass and about two gallons of nasty polyester resin.  But the Blue Gelcoat looks Cool!

20
just getting started, but here is the latest stuff!

http://greatalaskanbuildersblog.blogspot.com/

21
In the FAQ section, Brian lists this item:
"Waterline at the stern, typical displacement (3800-4000 lbs total): 4 inches (add about an inch for each additional 650 lbs or so)"

Does this mean that the top of the deck at the transom is 4 inches and if you add an additional 650lb, then the waterline would drop an inch and be roughly 3 inches?

I would like the deck at the transom (bottom of the scuppers) to be at least 4" when fully loaded.  I would like to also ensure the deck will always have a slope from the helm to the deck when sitting at rest.  I am assuming I could just shim the deck off the stringers or use taller stringers by a few inches.  Would this cause the center of gravity to be too high?

Can some comment on how the deck sits in relation to the waterline and the slope of the deck at rest?
Thank you.

22
I love the idea of having enough HP for the job, and not more than you need.  On a 26 foot boat, I love the idea of a 175 hp motor!!!!

My gut tells me that you need AT LEAST 250HP just to get on plane, with an extra 200hp just in case!!!  With any of the 3 designs, here are my concerns:

Does that 175 hp recommendation take into consideration a full load of lets say 4-5 adults, with 100 gallons of fuel,  ice and drinks and fishing supplies and safety equipment for a person with OCD?!

Does that 175hp allow enough extra power when coming into an inlet with steep following seas, and the captain needing to throttle up heavily to stay on the back of a wave or power over to the next without getting overtaken by the wave behind you?

Please excuse my ignorance, once again.....I am just so used to the idea of needing the max HP that the coast guard sticker says.

23
Brian, I got your message about the stern drive option. 

I love a boat with the full transom, and the outboard(s) on a bracket.  I have a fabricator that can build me an aluminum bracket of any style or size.  I would like to have the transom with an ice chest / fishbox across the back of the transom.  And I would like to have an outboard on a bracket with a swim ladder on the bracket.  What about a tuna door? 

I absolutely do not want to have center of gravity issues......Is this a good idea on this boat?

24
Hello folks.  I have been searching for a used (or new if I wanted to spend $100k) pilothouse boat for use in Florida.  I bottom fish offshore from St. Augustine, Fl around 30 miles offshore, a small amount of trolling, and fishing and cruising around the bridges and inlets inshore.

I have been looking at Parker, Steiger, Judge and several other pilothouse boats, but have not found EXACTLY what I was looking for.  I figured that for $40-50k used, I should not have to make a bunch of mods or settle for a design that I didn't like.  Then a user on thehulltruth.com pointed me towards the Tolman Jumbo.  At first I thought it was a joke.  After some digging, here I am.

I LOVE the Great Alaskan boat.  I am a very competent woodworker, have built just about anything out of wood.  I have a workshop and plenty of tools.  Never did any fiberglass work.  I could build you a house, or at least a kitchen full of Cherry cabinets!

My question is, is this for real?  I would love to build my own boat and not have to get a loan for $50k.  I am assuming I pay for the materials as I go, and then at the end, buy my outboard and electronics. 

Also, I usually travel for my job around 15-18 days per month, and the rest of the time I am at home.  I would have an easy 10-15 days per month to devote to this.  How long might this take?  Please pass on any advice or reality checks. 

Also a very stupid question, do these boats hold up for a long time like 10-20 years?  You have to excuse my ignorance, I only know about typical fiberglass boats like a Grady White.  I just can't get over the thought of building a boat out of plywood and taking it to the ocean!

Thank You!
Jim Stancil

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