CVG Fir Kiln Dried for Bow Stem

[Grady300]

Just wondering why the manual says specifically to used air dried CVG Fir as apposed Kiln Dried CVG Fir. I would think that KD is more stable than air dried what I am missing here?

[Striper]

The only reason I prefer air dried stock for is steam bending. Kiln dried stock has been heated and has taken a straight set.
Steam bending green or air dried stock is less likely to crack in my experience.

[xrayengineer]

Don't know either, I used kiln dried Cherry

[Grady300]

The only reason I prefer air dried stock for is steam bending. Kiln dried stock has been heated and has taken a straight set.
Steam bending green or air dried stock is less likely to crack in my experience.

Maybe it is a typo there has to be at least one somewhere:)

[Brian.Dixon]

After working in a sawmill and watching wood jam up on the big high-speed conveyors, I came away never wanting kiln-dried wood for anything.  The stuff is brittle and explodes or splinters and breaks clean in two when under stress.  Kiln-dried wood also warps like hell and if it's straight when you buy it, you better use it immediately or you'll be dealing with trying to use warped wood later.  AIR DRIED bends and when it breaks, it breaks gracefully, nearly never breaking clear in two.  Air dried wood warps far less as well, and CVG shouldn't warp at all.

That said, I'm certain you can get away with any wood you want for the stem, including laminated-up cheap plywood.  The air-dried CVG is the best answer (or any rot resistant hardwood) ...but honestly, the boat will work fine either way.

Brian

[Grady300]

After working in a sawmill and watching wood jam up on the big high-speed conveyors, I came away never wanting kiln-dried wood for anything.  The stuff is brittle and explodes or splinters and breaks clean in two when under stress.  Kiln-dried wood also warps like hell and if it's straight when you buy it, you better use it immediately or you'll be dealing with trying to use warped wood later.  AIR DRIED bends and when it breaks, it breaks gracefully, nearly never breaking clear in two.  Air dried wood warps far less as well, and CVG shouldn't warp at all.

That said, I'm certain you can get away with any wood you want for the stem, including laminated-up cheap plywood.  The air-dried CVG is the best answer (or any rot resistant hardwood) ...but honestly, the boat will work fine either way.

Brian

Thanks Brian, I am a firm believer in learning from others past experiences.

[kellyfell]

Thanks for the post .

[Cannon]

Just wondering why the manual says specifically to used air dried CVG Fir as apposed Kiln Dried CVG Fir. I would think that KD is more stable than air dried what I am missing here?

My experience with KD lumber is from a home builder point of view. The reason that KD lumber is not used for structural beams and such is that the process of Kiln drying explodes the wood cells. That is why in most structural (beam) applications an engineer will call for air dried lumber.

[buksknr1]

Chuck, at one point in our phone conversation you mentioned using LVL for the stem. I'd like to hear Brian's thought on that too.

[Brian.Dixon]

Chuck, at one point in our phone conversation you mentioned using LVL for the stem. I'd like to hear Brian's thought on that too.

LVL is fine for the stem.  It's a tad heavier than air-dried CVG, but the stem isn't very big... so it won't make any difference.  You can use air-dried douglas fir or southern yellow pine too ...just try to find non-warped pieces and/or laminate the stem from alternating/opposing grain directions in the laminations.  The goal is to produce a straight, strong, stem...

Brian

[Grady300]

Chuck, at one point in our phone conversation you mentioned using LVL for the stem. I'd like to hear Brian's thought on that too.

LVL is fine for the stem.  It's a tad heavier than air-dried CVG, but the stem isn't very big... so it won't make any difference.  You can use air-dried douglas fir or southern yellow pine too ...just try to find non-warped pieces and/or laminate the stem from alternating/opposing grain directions in the laminations.  The goal is to produce a straight, strong, stem...

Brian

I have made three so far out of gluing up LVL and they are sweet. Just need to plane down the surface you plan to glue together for a better fit and be sure to pre-wet the heck out of it before applying thickened epoxy.  Makes a very good strong, straight never gona warp bow stem. I now have a big ZERO Doug Fir in my kits . I just don't like it I bought some nice straight dried 2x6 for the support on the bow step to mount to the jig 12 feet long. Had it laying nice and flat 6 weeks later is is a twisted warped mess so I made up my own out of plywood glued up. Same reason I use TJI floor truss for the building jig I like to know it is not going to twist up and make my jig not square or level. Just like building as house if your foundation is not true your house wont be either IMHO