Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build

[Cannon]

I was concerned about this when I got to this point. I did just as Brian has illustrated and they work great.


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[Rbob]

That picture is worth a thousand bucks!

[Brian.Dixon]

That picture is worth a thousand bucks!

 

I like how you can use a square in cross-section strip of wood, no fancy bevels or fitting, and you get a spray rail that angles downward just as you want... It doesn't just deflect spray, it throws it downward.

Brian

[Rbob]

I applied the fillet and 4" 9oz glass to the inner shelf/side joint last night, it was surprisingly easy and went without a hitch.  I pre-wet the joint with ebond 1285/1285 with 15 seconds in the microwave to hurry it up a bit, just brushed it on with a chip brush that I trimmed shorter and just brushed maybe 1" on both sides of the joint, sides and shelf were already glassed, sanded and cleaned.

  I used disposable pasty bags (cheap and way better than a ziploc bag) for the fillet mixture and only mixed 2 batch's. Applied a full length bead and follow up with plastic spoon and scraped off the waste which was not much, filled screw holes with the leftover.  I love those pastry bags!

After dinner I went back at it. Not sure how everyone else applied this but I used the glassing box to pre-wet the glass and cut 6 - 5' lengths of glass and pre-wet 2 stacks of 3 glass with ebond 1285/1289 let it soak  then rolled it with a bubble roller and squeegeed off excess, then I slid the glassing box under the boat and put the glass on with nitrile gloves to smooth it into the fillet which was fairly firm still.  then one more smaller batch of epoxy and 4.5 5' pieces.

The ebond 1289 gave me lots of open time to work the glass and I never felt rushed and it layed down great, and it had the right amount of resin in it, no dry spots and not floating.

Will be glassing the exterior seams this weekend, just have to round over seams.  Hopefully will have time to  pre-coat the sides and front section of bow and do some fairing in preparation exterior glassing.   

[Brian.Dixon]

By the time you finish just the hull itself, you're an expert at epoxy and glass...

Brian

[Rbob]

Brian,

Glassing the inner and outer chine seams,  reading the construction manual:

"When you tape the inner and outer chine seams, use a nice fillet on the inner seam and don’t overlap the first or second layers of glass on the two seams, preferring instead to have them meet edge to edge so you maintain the flatness of the chine flats."

I am picturing (in my mind) 2 rows of of 4" 9oz tape side by side with edges touching (center of chine) running full length of chine, then 2 rows of 6" biax butted in the same manor with 1 piece 16" wide or so covering both previous layers.

Did I get that right?
 

[robertrosie5]

Not as good as I thought, a few spots need attention:



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[Brian.Dixon]

Looks fine and typical to me ...those hollows can be cut out with a razor blade and glassed over ...but in your case, I'd either make a tiny hole on each end and fill with epoxy, or just slice them out and pretend they weren't there.  They aren't big enough to be a structural issue.  My biggest concern is that hollow spots like those can hold water.  I feel better if there are no hidden pockets to hold water and whatever might grow in it...

Scrape the edges of glass with a carbide scraper to taper, and then lightly sand and coat it all with epoxy.

Brian

[Rbob]

Confused again,

How to end inner and outer chine seams at transom? Transom will get 3 layers on the exterior seam and the chine seam intersects how?  Should I stagger how then end at the transom?

[Brian.Dixon]

I suspect you're over thinking it a bit.  The tape on the chine seams just run right to the end the chines at the transom.  Later, you will put the tape on the transom corners, inside and out, and that tape will go right on over  any glass that's on the chine seams... and no, you will not be able to somehow overlap or stop edge-to-edge the various layers of glass to make all things perfectly flat ...you will take a wide blade or square trowel and fair it in, just like tapering in high spots when doing dry wall tape.  In the end, when the boat is painted, all will appear perfectly flat to the naked eye ...it'll look perfect.  I hope this is clear ..but words aren't worth diddly compared to pictures.  I just don't happen to have pictures of the chines v. transom joints and glass.  Maybe someone else here does?  In any case, it'll all work out as you go.  For now, the chine fiberglass goes right to the end of the chine seams, and don't worry too much about funny overlaps at the bow or transom.  You'll fair it in later and it'll turn out  great

Brian

[Rbob]

Ok, got it no pics needed.  Just one more question.

When flattening for the keel strake, wish I had a picture of that.  The keel past the knee still seems pretty round for a keel strake to sit upon.

[Brian.Dixon]

Ok, got it no pics needed.  Just one more question.

When flattening for the keel strake, wish I had a picture of that.  The keel past the knee still seems pretty round for a keel strake to sit upon.

You mean making a flat along the keel from the bow tip on down, so that the keel strake has a flat surface to land on?  The 3/4" wide flat only exists from the tip of the bow down to just where the bow 'knee' (actually called the forefoot of the hull) meets the keel under the boat.  The flat just makes it easier to install the strake, so it won't tend to wander off to one side of the boat or the other.  The 3/4" wide flat is first planed into the bottom panels (see p. 88, part 1 of the construction manual), then later on the 3/4" wide flat is planed from the bottom panels up to the tip of the bow (see p. 103, part 1 of the construction manual).  I don't have pictures, but if you look at the drawing on p. 88 and imagine a horizontal line intersecting the bow point (shown in cross section), you'll get the idea.

I don't think you were, but if you were perhaps referring to the straightening of the keel along the aft half of the boat prior to building the keel seam, that's shown in drawing #006ca.

Ask more questions if you need to ...or if you would like a sketch from me or anything, just ask

Brian

[Rbob]

I decided to fill all the holes and some fairing during the week, and glassing of the seams this weekend, then fair in the seams. If goes well maybe get the hull glassed (Wishful thinking).

I went ahead and marked out the spray rails, I could not find a good batten so I used 2" masking tape ($$ 3m yellow).  It is pretty stiff tape compared to the blue painters tape but worked well for this. Just another way to skin a cat.

   

[Brian.Dixon]

I've made my own battens before, using wood trim strips from Home Depot... Couldn't find square cross section ones, so bought rectangular cross section ones instead.  I ran them through the table saw, then glued them end to end using a 'cheap-n-easy' scarf cut from my chop saw.  I had 24' long battens at one time... worked great.  Not too much demand in stores for really long thin strips of wood!

bd

[Rbob]

Been reading the manual again, I cant find when to glass the exterior transom and if you use biaxial.