Been reading the manual again, I cant find when to glass the exterior transom and if you use biaxial.
You're right ...I don't see that either! (sorry)
Use plain woven fiberglass cloth throughout. The manual tells you what weights (I'd go 10 oz on the bottom, 6 to 10 oz on the sides and transom, your choice). The order of glassing is as follows:
1. Glass the side panels, allowing glass to overlap onto (or even past) the chine (or clear past the chine flat onto the bottom panels ...it all works). When cured, trim along the edge of the side panels (a sander w/80-grit held at an angle works great). With a carbide scraper, scrape off any irregularities in the cloth (bumps, threads of glass, points etc) and along the edges of the glass where it overlapped onto other parts of the boat, e.g. overlap onto the opposite side panels at the bow, chines/chine flats/bottom panels (depending on how wide your glass was), and transom. Then with a straight-edge trowel, use epoxy thickened with fairing compound to fill in / taper the edges of the glass to the hull. Repeat for the other side of the boat.
2. Using a similar approach, glass the bottom panels, preferably allowing the glass to overlap onto the sides and past the keel a few inches. If your glass isn't wide enough, then make sure you at least allow it to overlap past the chines and onto the side panels a few inches. If there is a gap between port and starboard glass along the keel, e.g. a long football shape gap, cut out fiberglass cloth to cover the gap, allowing it to overlap he perimeter of the gap a few inches all the way around (fair in the first glass before you apply the patch, then fair in the patch after it's cured).
3. Finally, glass the transom in a similar manner, allowing the glass to overlap onto the sides and bottom of the boat.
When you're done, the entire outside of the hull will be sheathed in glass, all edges trimmed and faired-in as best you can. Note that you'll have to cut slices into the glass at corners to allow first one side, then the other, to overlap and be epoxied in place. Remember my hint of making such slices slightly off from the actual point of the corner and not slicing clear onto the corner ...stop short. This will allow glass to stretch over the corner and protect it.
You'll be coating the boat (fill coats) with epoxy next, keeping in mind your future painting and possibly our graphite-epoxy coating on the bottom, so pay attention to the fairing... better early than late if you want to minimize work and time. You'll fair again prior to painting, to fill hollows etc (long-board sanding), but the fairing that you do along edges and corners and seams/overlaps now will go a long way to help you get a nice finish on the boat later on ...with minimum effort (who wants extra work? Especially if it's sanding, fairing and filling, repeat?).
Not sure if I mentioned it in the manual, but note that you'll likely want to glass the top of the transom, using wide glass tape (8 to 12 inches wide), letting the glass overlap the transom inside and out... nice to have bang protection along that top edge. For that, I'd use 10-oz plain woven glass.
Brian
