Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build

[Brian.Dixon]

Your lower motor bolts will go through under the swim platform deck from what I can see ...how will you reach them once the boat is built?

bd

[Cannon]

Brian is right, you will need an access hatch to reach the mounting bolts. I put one in my splash well as well, for the same purpose.  I originally was going to use a six inch screw in hatch, but when I got to that point I realized it just wasn't big enough. Ended up using a 10x12 Bomar hatch. Bought it on close out sale direct from the factory at a major discount.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Rbob]

I will use a 8" screw in deck plate, that should do it. My current boat has a snap in type mounted offset to kicker side so easy access to both motor mount bolts.   Probably go with a Beckson. 

[Brian.Dixon]

I will use a 8" screw in deck plate, that should do it. My current boat has a snap in type mounted offset to kicker side so easy access to both motor mount bolts.   Probably go with a Beckson.

An 8" round one will work fine... I've used them before.  But KEEP IN MIND that there is NO SUCH THING as a waterproof deck plate unless it screws or bolts down with at least 6 screws/bolts and has a quality gasket.  The only exception are certain heavy aluminum commercial-grade ones ...but they're spendy.  Plan on water.  Wire in a bilge pump for that compartment....

Brian

[robertrosie5]

Right now that compartment is not closed off bit it will be after the flip. I will probably mount 2 bilge pumps back there.

Just finished the fillets and 20 oz glass. When I tape the rear seams I will put 6" biax and 8" cloth on all rear seams and let sheathing cover for the 30 oz schedule. Decided to cover the biaxial on seams 3 & 4.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[robertrosie5]

Forgot the pic:



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Brian.Dixon]

You  know... you could also cut a rectangular opening through the forward transom, below the level of the swim platform decking... perhaps you could reach the lower motor mount bolts through that ...or maybe there's not enough height to give you a reasonable opening.  If that works, however, you could even leave it open or use a rectangular bomar hatch or equivalent, and have no deck plate on the swim platform deck? 

I wouldn't sweat having water in that compartment.  It's a boat.  But I'd provide a way to automatically remove it (bilge pump) and also consider how you'll keep the area vented ...at least when not in use.  Deck plates on vertical surfaces (or hatches) leak a lot less than deck plates mounted on horizontal surfaces.  I vowed long ago to never put deck plates on exposed horizontal surfaces again ...but then again, some are unavoidable.  Just something to keep in mind.

bd

PS: Your fillets and glass work look great ...as usual.  You're going to have a nice boat.

[starbright55]

Most guys swear by the Armstrong hatches (Armstrong - the guys that make the aluminum outboard brackets). Said they leak the least.  I'm sure they're not cheap.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[Brian.Dixon]

Nice hint!  I had totally forgotten about those and hadn't looked at them in years.  They have a seal and clamp the deck to close:

http://www.goodboatgear.com/detail/pd/70606/-Watertight-Compression-Deck-Plates
http://www.fisheriessupply.com/armstrong-nautical-round-watertight-compression-deck-plates

bd

[Rbob]

Thanks for that, they look to be better designed and not too expensive.

Bob

[Brian.Dixon]

Thanks for that, they look to be better designed and not too expensive.

Bob

Agreed... they've got to work better than the screw-in ones, and likely better than the quick release ones too.  I'd definitely go with Armstrong...

bd

[Rbob]

Align with upper side of the chine radius, otherwise you'd have fill work to do ...and the purpose is to knock down spray.  It'll do that fine when installed as shown below:



Brian

What happened to this pic? 

[Brian.Dixon]

Good catch!  I moved the forums to a different server and missed a few of the images files.  They should work now... although you may need to refresh you screen

Brian

[Rbob]

Perfect and thank you!

[Rbob]

Forgive me father, for I have sinned...  Its been 4 months since I my last worked on my boat. Life gets in the way sometimes and part time boat builder is faced with many challenges.

I promise to re-sand re-clean, apply fairing compound and sand some more then add the exterior glass.  I have no vision of finishing this year and I will be ok with that, setting my sights on next year for the launch.

One thing I discovered was that the keel was not flat / fair as I wanted so I used a long strait edge covered with box tape and put a bead of silica thickened epoxy to make a flat keel and fair.  I have since applied fairing compound to blend the keel into the bottom nice, the 2 rows of glass tape are blended in good now. I could have faired it all later after applying glass but it bothered.

I tried to use tap-talk but there is an error.

I should be able to start putting glass on the hull this coming weekend.  I will add some pics soon.