Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build

[Brian.Dixon]

Yes on Wallas heater.  Spendy for sure but worth every penny.

It'll out-last you too... quality is worth paying for.

[Todd j]

Wabasto, espar, and wallas arw the ones I've been looking at.  I've yet to really be able to see the differences.  Did you tip the scales for wallas because of scanmarine being sorta near?

[Rbob]

They are probably all good choices, Its been almost a year and I cannot remember the differant price points.  I made my decision on a Wallas because my friend has one in is Thunderjet offshore and you can leave the doors open and keep warm on a cold day.  That was enough for me.  I did visit the scanmarine booth at the boat show but ordered it online, same price.

[Rbob]

Had to take a look to see if I had 2 layers of glass on the shelves / side joint, what a relief..

[Todd j]

Rbob, how do you like that big ol aluminum cast hatch you bought?  I’m looking to put one in the cockpit to cover my fuel tank fittings. Did the quality of the product live up to the price?   Your .02 appreciated!
Thanks Todd

[Rbob]

It is bullet proof and maybe a little overkill but being on the swimstep its what I wanted.  Inside the cockpit probably wont matter much.  Try to get one that is not real tall, If you can flush mount it would be better, just have to have enough backing underneath.   

[Brian.Dixon]

For those that truly want the boat to float high when swamped or capsized (God forbid), the best deck hatches are the screw-down aluminum hatches that seal well.  Plastic deck plates (etc) do NOT seal well.  Small deck plates, say 8" diameter and smaller, can be gasketed and screwed down plates of polycarbonate ... those work well and you can see through them.  Best to have fuel manifolds, switches, etc higher than the deck and pass-throughs through the deck to under-deck passageways should be sealed etc.  The option is to fill under-deck areas with cut-to-fit closed-cell foam (polyethylene is best).  Anyway ... the deck plate discussion inspired me ... just my 2-bits

[Rbob]

Working on my Winldlass install,  I opted to mount the windlass on a piece of CE Grade Phelonic,  I did not want the windlass flexing the roof  / bolt holes with potential leaking in the future.

Used spray adhesive to mount the template, drill press to drill the holes and a friend with a bandsaw / oscillating drum sander and router  to make the finishing easy for me!

 

[Rbob]

Working on my Winldlass install,  I opted to mount the windlass on a piece of CE Grade Phelonic,  I did not want the windlass flexing the roof  / bolt holes with potential leaking in the future.

Used spray adhesive to mount the template, drill press to drill the holes and a friend with a bandsaw / oscillating drum sander and router  to make the finishing easy for me!

It did not have to be CE grade, just chose it because of the cloth thinking it is stronger. 

I made the pad about 1/2" +/- wider than the windlass and rounded.

I think this would be a good backing for the cleats and stern eyes.

https://www.ebay.com/str/Norva-Plastics-Inc/PHENOLIC/_i.html?_storecat=10847825

[Todd j]

For those that truly want the boat to float high when swamped or capsized (God forbid), the best deck hatches are the screw-down aluminum hatches that seal well.  Plastic deck plates (etc) do NOT seal well.  Small deck plates, say 8" diameter and smaller, can be gasketed and screwed down plates of polycarbonate ... those work well and you can see through them.  Best to have fuel manifolds, switches, etc higher than the deck and pass-throughs through the deck to under-deck passageways should be sealed etc.  The option is to fill under-deck areas with cut-to-fit closed-cell foam (polyethylene is best).  Anyway ... the deck plate discussion inspired me ... just my 2-bits

I'm not trying to save money on my build, but the solid poly blocks for under the PH when priced made me cringe.  I couldn't do it.  I think screw down aluminum hatch is what I want.  I haven't seen that as a option, so back to Google it is.

[Rbob]

For those that truly want the boat to float high when swamped or capsized (God forbid), the best deck hatches are the screw-down aluminum hatches that seal well.  Plastic deck plates (etc) do NOT seal well.  Small deck plates, say 8" diameter and smaller, can be gasketed and screwed down plates of polycarbonate ... those work well and you can see through them.  Best to have fuel manifolds, switches, etc higher than the deck and pass-throughs through the deck to under-deck passageways should be sealed etc.  The option is to fill under-deck areas with cut-to-fit closed-cell foam (polyethylene is best).  Anyway ... the deck plate discussion inspired me ... just my 2-bits

I'm not trying to save money on my build, but the solid poly blocks for under the PH when priced made me cringe.  I couldn't do it.  I think screw down aluminum hatch is what I want.  I haven't seen that as a option, so back to Google it is.

These are a good choice, 6" or 8" or 10"

http://stores.armstrongnauticalstore.com/deck-plates-1/

Or billet aluminum:
https://www.eddiemarine.com/shop/electrical/hatch-actuators/hatch-actuator-accessories/billet-aluminum-deck-access-plate-400-70

[Grady300]

For those that truly want the boat to float high when swamped or capsized (God forbid), the best deck hatches are the screw-down aluminum hatches that seal well.  Plastic deck plates (etc) do NOT seal well.  Small deck plates, say 8" diameter and smaller, can be gasketed and screwed down plates of polycarbonate ... those work well and you can see through them.  Best to have fuel manifolds, switches, etc higher than the deck and pass-throughs through the deck to under-deck passageways should be sealed etc.  The option is to fill under-deck areas with cut-to-fit closed-cell foam (polyethylene is best).  Anyway ... the deck plate discussion inspired me ... just my 2-bits

I'm not trying to save money on my build, but the solid poly blocks for under the PH when priced made me cringe.  I couldn't do it.  I think screw down aluminum hatch is what I want.  I haven't seen that as a option, so back to Google it is.

These are a good choice, 6" or 8" or 10"

http://stores.armstrongnauticalstore.com/deck-plates-1/

Or billet aluminum:
https://www.eddiemarine.com/shop/electrical/hatch-actuators/hatch-actuator-accessories/billet-aluminum-deck-access-plate-400-70

Those are interesting deck plates. I have never seen one that doesn't have an outside ring. I will have to see if I can find any reviews on these

[Rbob]

A peak at my roof, it did not go as good as I wanted, I used a pressure pot and a cheap spray gun with 1.3 fluid nozzle.  Either this spray gun is a P.O.S. or I did not/could not get it adjusted right.  I will sand the clear coat smooth and spray it again with my go to spray gun Iwata lph400.  Its a big panel and I am a short guy so reaching across seemed a no brainer to use a pressure pot but it sucked for me.


 

[Todd j]

It looks really good!
On a side note.  I find myself studying your work for inspiration.  I used your details for my doors into the wheel house.  I am wondering how mush reveal your left with on the window flange at the hinge mortise?

THX  Todd

[Rbob]

Todd,

Found a pic with a ruler on the aft cabin:  It looks like 4 inches without the window installed.