Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build

[Brian.Dixon]

...I should look up the transom in the CG spreadsheet for the GA and then post how much it weighs ...it's no piker though.  The stringers are heavy, as is the bottom panel assembly, and of course turning the boat over.  Everything else is reasonably light and easier to handle...  Beer and pizza and friends solves much...

Brian

[Rbob]

When do I drill transom for drain plug, now or after transom install?

[Brian.Dixon]

When do I drill transom for drain plug, now or after transom install?

I like to drill it after the boat is upright, before the decks go in.... and do it from inside the boat.  Easy to make close to hull that way, for better drainage... And I think I mention in the manual, that I like to build a fiberglass tube that has an inside diameter (15/16"?) sized for a standard boat drain plug, then I drill an oversize hole through the transom and epoxy the drain tube into place (flush with the inside, cut flush after curing on the outside).  And I like to give the drain plug a slight downward angle to a) help drain the boat, and b) provides a little extra room on the inside for you to tighten the drain plug (which goes from inside towards the outside ...unless you want to lose it while underway ...keep spares onboard).

Brian

[Rbob]

Sounds great and I waz in a hurry so I drilled it, I will make a tube like you mentioned with wax paper and broom handle and epoxy that in a oversized hole I made.

Thanks Brian !

[Brian.Dixon]

Sounds great and I waz in a hurry so I drilled it, I will make a tube like you mentioned with wax paper and broom handle and epoxy that in a oversized hole I made.

Thanks Brian !

Everything on the boat is something that can be fixed or done over again ...I cut a cabin door out too large one time, and patched in a specially-fit piece of plywood to narrow the door back down ...and I've filled and re-drilled lots of things.  No problem.  When the paint was on the boat, nobody could tell what I did and only friends knew... haha...

Brian

[BobC]

Just epoxied the transom to the bottom tonite.  The transom is no joke.  I am glad I have manhandled it for the last time.  I'm glad it fit well.  Mine was built using Fir.  I imagine Meranti would be beyond the pale for one man assembly without some real innovation.

It's funny, I was just thinking about when to do the drain plug.  I think I am going to wait as well so as brian says, I can get it as close to the bottom of the bilge as possible.

That stem connection looks real nice Rbob.   Looks like you are making good use of LVL material.  She's gonna be a stout craft when you are done. 

[Brian.Dixon]

Looking good!  No more tossing that transom around... heh heh...

[Rbob]

I got my transom fitted last night, was a little more involved as I added 4" to the stringers which I cut the raised section on a 14 degree angle to match up to the inside of the transom.  I had to grind back about 6" of fillet on the on the hull center seam to mount the transom which sucked.

Now I have to raise up the bottom and sand upside down where the stringers will glue to the bottom, and sides of the stringers where the fillet will go.  It would have been a lot easier while the hull was upright and the stringers were still on the bench. I have to start thinking more about hindsight.

The transom fit great with only a gap at the top of the stringers. I will post some pics in a bit.


BobC, Looks like we are real close on our builds and I enjoy watching your progress.

[Rbob]

Maybe by accident but I did not need braces to set/hold the transom angle, since I had cut the 4" raised portion of the stringers at 14 degrees to fit against the inside of the transom and not thru the transom, the transom the angle is adjusted by bumping the stringers forward or aft-ward.  I used a digital angle gauge, zero it on the vertical temp framing and set each side to 14 exactly. I double checked this by zero the gauge on the building jig and then checking transom and 76 degrees confirms a perfect angle. I meticulously leveled the building jig with a laser also.

[Rbob]

Brian,

I am doing a transom modification, it will be an extended transom.  I used the transom cutout that I had and raised the upper doubler to match the 4" raised sides, just had to add a backing to that to screw the shelves into.  Once the boat is flipped and the rear bulkheads for the fish box is built I can do a final cut on the transom.  I will add a small door to access the extended transom.

I know it may not be as seaworthy but I like it:

[Brian.Dixon]

That'll work fine.  Keep in mind that the boat tapers from amidships aft, so the aft transom will be a little narrower than the primary transom.  Not much, but something you may want to eyeball with a couple of battens taped on the hull sides etc.

Brian

[Cannon]

That is what I originally going to do, but my shop is just too short. Dang the luck!

[Brian.Dixon]

That is what I originally going to do, but my shop is just too short. Dang the luck!

I'm designing in something similar on the 16' skiff that I'm working on...and will have a Euro style transom.  I'll build one for myself and put an outboard jet on it ...

Brian

[robertrosie5]

Spent ast night double checking all measurements. The stringers are not perfectly strait so I added 32" spreaders between the stringers and then measured to the outer chines where I put the spreaders. It was off S much as 1/2" so I added 2x4's to the chines of equal length to get the stringers perfectly in line. I am glad I spent the time so raising the hull to drill, sand and epoxy will be a no brainer, lower it back down in the saddles I made and everything will be in alignment. I also braced the stem so it wont move after making sre it was plumb.




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[Rbob]

I will be cutting off the stringers tonight, but what/when is the best way to cut the bottom flush to the transom?