Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build

[Rbob]

Todd,

I wanted flush hatches so I made them, not wanting to use plywood I just layed up a pile of leftover biaxial cloth I had. 
I had some left over 50" biaxial, cut it 12" x 24" When it cured remove peel ply and I layed a strait edge close to the edge and cut with skill saw, then to on tablesaw to do opposite side and used a tablesaw sled to do short sides.  I barely have enough to make my discs.  Going to use a router with a circle cutter jig thingy, pretty easy drill a tiny hole and put a screw thru jig and set the diameter and go for it.  Used that jig on the cutout for the ports and backers.  Just have to drill / countersink for mounting and install with silicone.  eventually I will have to remove them so will need to cut perimeter and pry out after removing screws.

Long version:

layed out some plastic on the level workbench, put down a piece of dollar store pillow case (cheap peel ply mistake)

• peel ply
  10oz woven cloth, wet out
  add a layer ov 12oz biaxial, wetout
  keep adding layers of 12oz biaxial, wetting out each coat
  when it gets thick as you want it add a final layer of 10oz, it will wetout by itself being on top of the previous wetout biaxial
  lay down the cheap peel ply over than and drag a spreader around it, I used a 6" putty knife until it is soaked into the peel ply

The advantages?  The lids will get walked on a lot and these hopefully will be bullet proof, especially when prying out later.

You could do it with plywood overdrill & fill at screwholes then redrill and countersink would work just fine but I overthink stuff a lot, funny sometimes ridiculous at times.  Hopefully I am  running out of things to overthink.

[Todd j]

Ok.  Got it.  Overthinking is my specialty!

[Rbob]

Brian,

You will probably laugh at this.  I finished with fuel tank inspection ports, the discs i made are between 3/8" and 7/16" thick.  The fiberglass tape I applied to the edge of openings protruded so I used the router set to proper depth to allow 1/16 of silicone sealer and trimmed with router.  I still had the template, easy.  then mixed up a slurry of epoxy and filled it up. 

Moved on to adding support to the front hatches, still need to put those together but pieces are cut and fit.

Life getting in the way a bit, helping my son move, Easter Sunday with grandkids so not a lot of progress.

Pics:
 

[Brian.Dixon]

Pretty slick!  Are you going to just use sealant to install the deck plates?  Or screws?  I was wondering if or when you plan to open them for inspection and what not and what your plans are.  They sure turned out cool .... haven't seen anyone else do this before and I like it

Brian

[Rbob]

Brian,

I am going to drill and countersink holes, 6 on the little ones and 8 on the big one and use sealant or make a reusable silicone gasket.

 assembled the hatch covers last night, still have to cover with 1/8" plywood after glassing the underside and a couple sealing coats.

The white stuff is some leftover epoxy with white pigment I was using to fill the weave in case you were wondering.

[Brian.Dixon]

Have you looked at gasket materials such as soft sponge neoprene and related?  Seems like it might be easier or faster to just cut out a disk of soft neoprene and I'm pretty sure it's oil and petroleum product-proof.  I don't like working with goop if I don't have to

Brian

[Rbob]

You are right, neoprene is closed cell and would be just fine to seal it up.

Thanks!

[Todd j]

I was looking at your fuel connections and it reminded me of something.  I always 2  use hose clamps where it fits.   Each opposite the other.  Then you have a spare to steal when one let's go elsewhere.

[Brian.Dixon]

You are right, neoprene is closed cell and would be just fine to seal it up.

Thanks!

Just an idea.  I know that in industry, I saw soft neoprene gasket material used a lot....

Brian

[Rbob]

I was looking at your fuel connections and it reminded me of something.  I always 2  use hose clamps where it fits.   Each opposite the other.  Then you have a spare to steal when one let's go elsewhere.

 Thats a good idea, I have 2 clamps on the fuel fill hose connections opposed like you mentioned.

 

[Brian.Dixon]

FYI - The ABYC guidelines recommend double clamps on all fuel fittings, including the vent line and return (diesel).  They (and the USCG) recommend re-usable, band-type (no wire clamps), 1/2" wide band or larger (on fuel fills), rolled-edge non-cutting bands, "non-perforated" bands, correctly sized and utilized, no less than 2 clamps on each connection, and they must be corrosion resistant.  316 stainless for offshore boats.  Linear equal-compression clamps, mounted 180 degrees out of alignment from each other, is recommended.  All fittings and clamps are supposed to be accessible, not expected to last longer than 10 years (USCG), and should be inspected annually or more often.  Enclosed spaces are recommended to have fume detection.  Lots more rules on ventilation, powered or not, for semi-permeable (plastic) tanks.  Speaking of tanks, I prefer aluminum and prefer zinc-chromate primer on the metal first, then a good hard bottom paint rated for below the waterline.  Standing water on tanks, inside tanks, and under tanks are the number one source of failure (corrosion).

The reality is that the perfect clamp is hard to find and that 90% of the boats out there don't follow these rules .... but why?  It's easy to do the research and buy the best you can find, and they don't cost much either.  I just looked at a US Boating article on a 'fuel system check-up' for your boat ... and EVERY PICTURE THEY SHOWED violated the rules above ... geez!  It's cheap to be the smart guy with fuel systems....

Off my pedestal...  Google is your friend


Brian

https://www.starmarinedepot.com/ideal-clamps-non-perforated-general-purpose-1.5-10-pack/pzz22187.html

[Rbob]

I not sure I read the pamphlet correctly but fuel fill lines definitely need 2 clamps but the vent and hose from tank to engine look to be one clamp.

I could be wrong...

I did use the 316 stainless rolled edge clamps, $$ clamps 

[Todd j]

Jeez, look what I started!   I dread the part where I have to start following “rules”.

[Rbob]

Now I have to read the whole chapter again, ha,ha,ha

Better to follow the rules now than later.... 
Some of the mentally challenging items for me, Electrical, Fuel systems and ventilation, read, read, and read again.   I am more of a hands on guy, show me how and I can do it.  If I read about how to do it thats when it can become more challenging.

This is what makes these forums great, lots of input and help.  Brian is and has always been most helpful in every aspect of my build and for that I am very thankful. 


 

[Djeffrey]

Just makes good sense to me that when it comes to flammables on a boat better safe then sorry. I’m doing the whole thing, including a blower on my compartment. It’s hard to find a safe place on a burning boat. Just one retired firefighters opinion. Fire hot!!