Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build

[Todd j]

I was wondering more the left right side to side.  I was reading your build again last night and saw a pic with the window cut out of the door.  There was a hinge next to the window cut out.  All along IVe been Hoping I left enough room for the window flange on the inside and outside of the of doors and bulkheads and walls while maximizing the amount t of light into the ph

[Rbob]

Boat roof is painted and heading home today.  If goes as planned I will be gluing it on this weekend.

[Brian.Dixon]

Looks fantastic!  Definitely raising the bar on that one!

[Rbob]

Thank you, I am glad it is done, the light gray is not as good as I wanted even after the redu, but the blue turned out fantastic.

In my struggles I discovered my clearcoat gun had a 1.4mm fluid nozzle which is a mystery to me, switched it back to a 1.3mm and adjusted the air pressure to 24psi at the gun from 20psi.

It should not have been a struggle for me (spraying part) but thats life, sometimes stuff happens.  Just glad I figured this out before I spray the rest.

I know most will not spray the paint but you can have issues with either.

The clear coat I found is rated below waterline which is amazing stuff, it is from Tamco, Hi-impact Clearcoat.

HI-IMPACT clear was developed by Tamco for those who want the ultimate chemical, fuel, UV, scratch and water resistance. This clear can be used under the water line on (fresh or salt water) watercraft which makes it great for boats and jet ski’s as well as skydrol resistant for use on aircraft. If you are looking for the best of the best in the automotive refinish industry look no further than HI-IMPACT

[Brian.Dixon]

Sounds like tough stuff!  Keep in mind that there are 2 different types of paint rated for use below the waterline ... I suspect the Tamco clear coat is the first type.  The first type is a hard-shell finish that is very close to being impervious to water.  It is a barrier.  The second type is kind of the opposite ... it allows both water and air to pass through the coating, albeit slowly.  The barrier type, given very long storage in water (most of a year) can result in water trapped under the coating, and then as climate and temperatures change, it can cause bubbling in the paint.  This type of paint is best for trailer-sailors.  The semi-permeable type (second type above) is better for boats that are stored in the water ... noting that boats that are stored in the water need to come out once a year or so for bottom inspection, cleaning/sanding, and recoating.  I believe that the (manufacturer-recommended) primer coat for the semi-permeable type is a barrier coat as well, but the 99%-protective semi-permeable finish coat prevents it from ever seeing enough water absorption to be an issue.  Note that the semi-permeable type can sometimes be anti-fouling as well.  A third type of bottom or below-the-waterline paint is 'ablative anti-fouling' paint that actually sheds off into the water as it's used up - it needs recoating now and then as well - sometimes ablative bottom paints are not legal in certain bays, e.g. sensitive oyster beds and what not exist - check local rules.  Anyway ... just a few thoughts.  Most don't leave their boats in the water longer than a summer season and therefore any below-the-waterline paint system is going to work fine.

[Todd j]

Rbob, did you buy just the 25' of door seal product you posted about way back when?  I seem to remember someone buying something similar and had to buy way more than needed.  They were offering it up for sale.  Anyhoo i cruised your thread where you were showcasing your door and didn't see any mention of it.  Im ready to buy something like it too.  I put the caliper on the 1/4" ply and got closer to 5/16" after it was glasses both sides.  That bulb seal is available in the 2 different sizes.  Wondering which way to go?  Is the 1/4" stuff in your opinion, flexible enough to swallow another 1/32" if needed?

[Rbob]

1/4" fits, I used the 3/8" bubble: 

If you open the "drop down" list under the STYLE, you will see lots of sizes to choose from.

https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Trim-Seal-Side-Bulb/dp/B00NL40XTK/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=TRIM-LOK+-+3100B3X1%2F4A-25+Trim-Lok+Trim+Seal&qid=1609368098&s=industrial&sr=1-3

[Grady300]

Looks fantastic!  Definitely raising the bar on that one!

The bar does not get any higher than perfect:) Super nice!

[Rbob]

I made a short video clip, no music or talking, need to work on that part when I get time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GQd73G2oMw&feature=youtu.be

For the heck of it who likes Whales?  This is out of LaPush on my 22' SeaRaider aluminum boat with my friend Jack, he seemed very concerned:

https://youtu.be/DllXCrjhgCs

[Todd j]

I always enjoy seeing whales when I’m out.  We saw some smacking the water with their flukes on day goin out and coming back from halibut fishing.  I’m guessing it’s mating thing.  It was really loud and you could see it from a great distance.

[Rbob]

With help we set the roof on, I originally was going to apply the glue before setting it down but decided it would be easier to prop it up and add the glue and just set it strait down.

If you remember when I test fitted the roof I marked the inside corners and the roof rail locations and installed a strip of wood that the side window panels will have something to glue to and be strait.

Video was done by my wife without asking so you can see.  Videos are catching on..

https://youtu.be/sr_As0tjFJc

[json]

Your boat is looking fabulous. Nice work! That blue is killer. When I did it it was really easy to just prop it up like you say on some 4x4 scraps and slap some glue on and then pull them, for sure much easier than glue on first.

[Rbob]

Thanks Json.

I glued it on tonight, I will add fillets both sides and 4" cloth on the exterior perimeter as Brian suggests in the manual.

Pics:

[Todd j]

It looks great as usual!

[Djeffrey]

Outstanding