GA28 in Bakersfield California

[jov]

Started working on a 28 foot Great Alaskan several years ago but then got transferred for work. I am finally getting a chance to work on it again. Thought I would share my progress with everyone since the builds posted on here have been really good motivation to get back to it. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find the camera with the previous pictures so this starts with the hull mostly built.

I started with a kit from West Coast Boat Works. It went together easily and really recommend it.

My plan is to build a Prince Rupert style cabin with the bulwark and visor. My goal is to build a fishing machine that includes outriggers, downriggers, and a pot puller. It probably won't be as fancy as some of the others on here. Hopefully, I can build a something that gets the job done and puts the fish on the deck.

[Grady300]

Glad to see your back on it!!! Looking forward to seeing the progress

[Brian.Dixon]

Welcome aboard (again!)!  The hull's looking great!  Looking forward to lots of progress pix!

[jov]

Got some strakes put on the boat. It took a lot more time than I thought it would. The side strakes were definitely an interesting challenge. I followed the instructions in the manual. Trying to measure, balance, and make sure the jig was 90 degrees was a challenge but it got done. One thing I realized as I was working is that I could use a stud finder to get an rough idea of where the stringer were. I think that helped a lot to make sure my measurements were good.

The picture looks kind of ugly, but I have since cleaned the fillets up and they came out pretty nice. There are a couple of spots that need a little more thickened epoxy. Should be able to finish that up next week hopefully.

I have also been looking into bottom paint since that should be coming up pretty soon hopefully. I have been looking into Interlux Bottomkote and Sea Hawk Cukote. Not sure which way to go. Bottom paint is a really confusing topic since there are so many options. Hard? Ablative? Will probably call some representatives to get some ideas.

[Lindy]

love your Kreg screws, I used a bunch of them to temporarily hold stuff on my build. I know it is not fun crawling on top of the bottom of the boat, but looks great.

[Brian.Dixon]

love your Kreg screws, I used a bunch of them to temporarily hold stuff on my build. I know it is not fun crawling on top of the bottom of the boat, but looks great.

I've seen those ... What's the advantage to using Kreg screws?

[Brian.Dixon]

Got some strakes put on the boat. It took a lot more time than I thought it would. The side strakes were definitely an interesting challenge. I followed the instructions in the manual. Trying to measure, balance, and make sure the jig was 90 degrees was a challenge but it got done. One thing I realized as I was working is that I could use a stud finder to get an rough idea of where the stringer were. I think that helped a lot to make sure my measurements were good.

The picture looks kind of ugly, but I have since cleaned the fillets up and they came out pretty nice. There are a couple of spots that need a little more thickened epoxy. Should be able to finish that up next week hopefully.

I have also been looking into bottom paint since that should be coming up pretty soon hopefully. I have been looking into Interlux Bottomkote and Sea Hawk Cukote. Not sure which way to go. Bottom paint is a really confusing topic since there are so many options. Hard? Ablative? Will probably call some representatives to get some ideas.

Congrats on getting those strakes on ... yes, they're an interesting challenge but are worth the work.  Getting them straight and parallel to the boat's centerline helps tracking, resists broaching, and gets better mileage ... they're worth the effort.

Will you be keeping your boat on a trailer most of the time?  Or will you keep it in a slip?  Typical advice is to use hard bottom paint if trailering (prevents paint damage) and ablative 'soft' bottom paint if kept in a slip.  The trade-offs that I'm aware of are the following:

ABLATIVE / SOFT BOTTOM PAINT:

• It goes away faster if you use the boat a lot (moving, rather than just sitting, in water)
• The anti-fouling tends to pollute the water where the boat is kept - some bays will not let you dock in them with ablative bottom paint - example) bays with oyster farms ... the paint kills oysters
• Because sloughing off always exposes new layers of the paint, the anti-fouling is always fresh and works better
• If you keep the boat in the water, you'll need to recoat the bottom seasonally
• Trailer bunks can damage the softer ablative paint

'HARD' BOTTOM PAINT:

• It physically lasts longer and is more resistant to mechanical damage (beaching, trailer bunks etc)
• The anti-fouling pollutes less since it's not sloughing off
• The anti-fouling dwindles over time since the exposed (typ. copper) outer layer of paint gets 'used up' and does not slough off to expose new layers
• Recoating is necessary, but how often depends on how much you keep the boat in the water.  If the boat is kept in the water, the anti-fouling paint is only optimal for around 60 days
• Typically cheaper - you don't have to recoat as often

[Lindy]

I found the Kreg screws quite inexpensive, bought a 50 lb box of them. Course threads gripped well in plywood, square drive head much easier to reverse or clean if epoxy/filler gets in to them, the one and 1 1/4 inch length was about right most of the time, and the smooth upper part of the shank helped draw the upper piece of the wood to the lower piece better than a screw with more threads on it.

[Brian.Dixon]

I found the Kreg screws quite inexpensive, bought a 50 lb box of them. Course threads gripped well in plywood, square drive head much easier to reverse or clean if epoxy/filler gets in to them, the one and 1 1/4 inch length was about right most of the time, and the smooth upper part of the shank helped draw the upper piece of the wood to the lower piece better than a screw with more threads on it.

Thanks, Lindy ...

[jov]

Thanks for the information about bottom paint, Brian. The plan is to keep the boat on a trailer and mostly do day trips. I am planning on using the bottom paint in case of longer trips.

[Brian.Dixon]

Thanks for the information about bottom paint, Brian. The plan is to keep the boat on a trailer and mostly do day trips. I am planning on using the bottom paint in case of longer trips.

Sounds like the hard non-ablative bottom paint would be the best for your uses ... my 2-bits

[jov]

Put the spray rails on this week. I decided to go with the full length even though I am planning on a Prince Rupert style setup. I figured it can't hurt to have a longer spray rail. Might keep the boat a little bit drier. Plus I think the boats I have seen with full length rails look pretty good. So why not. I think they came out alright, but I can already tell there is going to be a lot of sanding necessary.

[Brian.Dixon]

Looks good to me.  The rails stiffen the sides too, not just knock down water.  I like'm ...

[json]

Sanding these was definitely a PITA but I like them on my boat, I think they definitely contribute in a positive way to keeping the spray knocked down toward the water.

[Brian.Dixon]

Sanding these was definitely a PITA but I like them on my boat, I think they definitely contribute in a positive way to keeping the spray knocked down toward the water.

Like raising the cockpit deck, more f'w'd than aft, helps water drain out of the scuppers ... the drier the better, I always say