GA30 in Silverton Oregon

[rhenryinoregon]

After about six months of studying plans, reading these blogs, meeting builders, cleaning and organizing my shop, and buying tools and basic supplies, I’m starting my GA28! Today I bought supplies to build the saw horses, building jig and epoxy cabinet. I’d told a lot of people I was going to start this project in October and by God I did!  Ladies and Gentlemen, the saw horse. Hey, you gottta start somewhere.

[Farmboy]

👏🏻🙌🏼

[WCR247]

Awesome Bro! Huge Milestone. I'm still in the planning stages, can't wait to see your build come along.

[Todd j]

I built mine from left over scrap material from an unrelated project.  One of my biggest regret is not building stackable horses with a removable/replaceable top since I like to cut through the tops.  They take up a lot of room in the shop when they are not being used

[Djeffrey]

Enjoy your adventure! Ask lots of questions

[Cannon]

You won’t regret your building a GA, but those who don’t go along for the ride will!
I’m with Nolan, I much prefer Renn’s sawhorses.

[json]

I haven't cut a horse in half yet, but I definitely like the design of the ones in the book; stackable, durable, easy. Good luck with your build, I remember the day I laminated the first part of my (1st) stem, and thinking if I was getting in over my head and whatnot. Then you blink and it's 2 years later and you look up at a big giant boat. Willamette valley is becoming a GA hot spot...

[rhenryinoregon]

Thanks all. I know there are many different saw horse designs out there and I looked at a few. This design works and is stout. On to epoxy bench now. I think I’m going to use a greenhouse seed bed heat mat on the back wall as a heat source. Simple and I’ve already got one. I’ll be ordering my first batch of plywood and epoxy later this week.

[Todd j]

Make sure to check with Barry at Ebond for your epoxy.  I found it to be the best bang for the buck

[rhenryinoregon]

I called Barry today to order my first 15 gallons. Should be here next week. I spent my lunch calling plywood dealers to source my first batch of wood and am very glad I called around. Prices vary A LOT! Will probably drive to PDX on Saturday to pick up a load of Okoume. Happy to be started!

[Todd j]

I’ve not checked prices, but use crosscut hardwoods for everything.   Descent supply and a couple different options.   

[Brian.Dixon]

I’ve not checked prices, but use crosscut hardwoods for everything.   Descent supply and a couple of different options.

If you're in Oregon/Washington, you can often save $$$ in shipping by ordering from Edensaw ... call them and ask if there are any local businesses close to you that have a shipment coming up. The local businesses will often agree to have your stack of plywood delivered with theirs for little cost or for free.  I did it ... it works.

[rhenryinoregon]

Thanks, now that's a helpful tip (plenty here). I will call them today. I had planned to call Edensaw today. One question and I know it's been discussed lots on these pages, but I'm reading up on the differences between Okoume and Hydrotek. I'm wondering if Hydrotek on for the bottom construction would be an advantage because of it's rot restistance and strength? I know fully encapsulating all the plywood in epoxy should mitigate concerns, but anything that reduces risk of rot can't be a bad thing. It's a little extra weight, but as noted, this boat will still be plenty light. Thoughts?

[json]

Thanks, now that's a helpful tip (plenty here). I will call them today. I had planned to call Edensaw today. One question and I know it's been discussed lots on these pages, but I'm reading up on the differences between Okoume and Hydrotek. I'm wondering if Hydrotek on for the bottom construction would be an advantage because of it's rot restistance and strength? I know fully encapsulating all the plywood in epoxy should mitigate concerns, but anything that reduces risk of rot can't be a bad thing. It's a little extra weight, but as noted, this boat will still be plenty light. Thoughts?

I used hydrotek on the bottom of my build, and okoume on the roof... I liked working with hydrotek better. It's heavier and stiffer but as you pointed out more rot resistant, and the extra weight on the bottom will probably be (marginally) advantageous keeping the vertical c/g lower. I also found the quality of hydrotek/aquatek to be better, the okoume I got had some voids but from what I have heard that was an exception, not the rule. I have yet to find a void in hydrotek or aquatek. That said, if I had a do-over I would probably use aquatek for the whole thing except the roof and/or up high, it's great for any structural application where you aren't going to bright finish it (and costs about half as much as the same dimension panels of joubert okoume). Something else to note, I also used some cdx and other fir ply from home depot for some under deck stuff (secondary stringers, non-critical sole supports, etc) and for the amount of extra work to even fill voids and glass the panels I would not go that route again I don't think. I would however not hesitate to use MDO, from what I have used of it it has all been high quality, very few voids and also perfectly fair surfaces to start with. It's just very heavy.

[rhenryinoregon]

That's very helpful as well. I've now called 15 suppliers for price quotes - around the US as well as Oregon and Washington. Mr. Plywood in PDX is cheapest on hydrotek, and Crosscut is best on Okoume. I have a couple of quotes coming on line. Your logic is where I'm ending up so I'll probably do the same - hydrotek down low and okoume up high. Thanks!