To make the boat wider in a responsible way

[nick1983]

Hey,

The 8'6" width is due regulations in the US about trailering.
But my boat will stay in the water, so I can go wider. He has to be transport by truck anyway and lifted with a crane off the driveway.

Are there limitations in the design to go a little bit wider? I don't talk about 12ft but more around a max of 10ft.
My desired length is the whole 28ft.

What is the maximum supported by Brian? If so, what is the correct way to build?

Should the boat be more stable in rougher water if wider?

[Ed Snyder]

Brian?...... sorry mate...... 

[Brian.Dixon]

I'll have to respond later today if I get time.  But I will..

bd

[nick1983]

Thanks! No hurry here! It's going to take at least 4 more months to start


Don't get me wrong, I don't want to invent something new.. 
Just wondering if the 8'5" is the absolute max or not.

And if it's allowed to go wider.. I want to do it correctly.

[starbright55]

Brian previously "authorized" 9'0 but you might run into displacement issues  (too light, too buoyant) if you go much wider.

So far, no one has done it. It's been talked about but not implementated. Maybe you'll be the first?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

[nick1983]

I'm just thinking about stability in rougher seas.

On the Northsea the waves are short. I don't know what should be better, wider or narrow.

[Brian.Dixon]

I'm just thinking about stability in rougher seas.

On the Northsea the waves are short. I don't know what should be better, wider or narrow.

You  can make it up to 9' wide.  You can do that by offsetting the chine line lofting for the bottom panels out about 2-1/2" plus making the chine flats about an inch or so wider as well.  More than that  would require me to model the boat again and may likely result in redesign work that I can't squeeze in right now.  Note that these changes impact the following elements:  bottom panels, chine flats, sheer shelves, and transom.

As for seakeeping abilities, you won't notice much difference.  And as it makes sense, you need to adjust boat trim for varying conditions.  For example, in short-period waves of decent size (it's subjective) and in following seas, you'll want to slow down and trim the bow up a bit (go by feel and response - how the boat responds when running into the next wave - a tendency to broach means 'a little more up in the bow').  In a head sea, or a chop that's small enough, trimming the bow a tad down will smooth out the ride a bit.

Brian

[Easygoing]

I'm just thinking about stability in rougher seas.

On the Northsea the waves are short. I don't know what should be better, wider or narrow.

You  can make it up to 9' wide.  You can do that by offsetting the chine line lofting for the bottom panels out about 2-1/2" plus making the chine flats about an inch or so wider as well.  More than that  would require me to model the boat again and may likely result in redesign work that I can't squeeze in right now.  Note that these changes impact the following elements:  bottom panels, chine flats, sheer shelves, and transom.

As for seakeeping abilities, you won't notice much difference.  And as it makes sense, you need to adjust boat trim for varying conditions.  For example, in short-period waves of decent size (it's subjective) and in following seas, you'll want to slow down and trim the bow up a bit (go by feel and response - how the boat responds when running into the next wave - a tendency to broach means 'a little more up in the bow').  In a head sea, or a chop that's small enough, trimming the bow a tad down will smooth out the ride a bit.

Brian

Sooo, this begs another question...

Can one widen the bottom of the boat as described above and leave the shear at 8.5 ft? I realize this decreases the dory flare of the sides, but is that a huge deal?

[Brian.Dixon]

You can widen the bottom and leave the sheer as-is ...with less flare and not quite as purdy of course...  I'd have worked in another couple of degrees of flare if the highway width limits would've allowed it.

bd

[Ed Snyder]

Brian previously "authorized" 9'0 but you might run into displacement issues  (too light, too buoyant) if you go much wider.

So far, no one has done it. It's been talked about but not implementated. Maybe you'll be the first?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

I widened mine 3 ft....... Called The Great Australian now......

[Brian.Dixon]

You definitely win the award for making the greatest modification to the original design, that's for sure!  It's looking great, though!  I can't remember ...how long is your boat now?  And do you have pix of the curved transom as well?

Thx,
Brian

[Ed Snyder]

Hi Brian!
She's 10.2M LOA last count and 3.2M across the hips.
Tranny pic has that bit still there for a short shaft out board donk, well, cut it off now, going with a Cummins 6BTA - aboat 300 horses.
Working on going for a ZF Vee drive too, but got to get the balance right as the donk will be at the transom, so, still thunking on that one.
I'm just now scaling the drawing on the puta to get some sort of idea what the cockpit sole height may end up, see, could possibly end up with the donk under the saloon sole too, noisy but heck we're fishin huh, and sleeping has the noise off so no worries.
So to get the boats proportions looking like something you might have drawn (side elevation) I need plans, that means drawing her to scale.
I have soooo much recycled (in plurry good nic too) Jarrah hard wood now to complete the boat, and that stack of 1/2" ply too - 22 sheets.
Cabin sides, lid and forward deck are now to be 1/4" ply sandwich with 1/2" foam, ($250 a poop - er sheet plurry expensive) so we get some relief from our 40 deg Celsius heat in summer - Feb the worst. And sound too.

Heck Brian there's some real neat boats being built now.

[Brian.Dixon]

Looking great, Ed.  Actually, that curved transom should be stronger too, like a curved dam (not a curvy dame)...

bd

[Ed Snyder]

Way ahead of these pix now Brian, ur right - we all like a curvie bum.....