My Official build thread. 27 1/2’ GA

[Todd j]

Yup it helps.  Just looking for clarification.  Then manual does call for 5” aft of bow.  I’m away at work for the week so I couldn’t do any measuring.   I will put a nice taper as directed  on the main to avoid interfering with any bow roller.  Thanks

[Brian.Dixon]

Yup it helps.  Just looking for clarification.  Then manual does call for 5” aft of bow.  I’m away at work for the week so I couldn’t do any measuring.   I will put a nice taper as directed  on the main to avoid interfering with any bow roller.  Thanks

I'll double check the CAD model and see if 5" is bad advice or not....

[Todd j]

Ok. Either way sounds like I'm aiming for the stem.  Thx

[Brian.Dixon]

Ok. Either way sounds like I'm aiming for the stem.  Thx

Yeah ... the whole point is that if the splash rail gets dinged up and not repaired, like if you have a hidden ding that violates the epoxy and the boat's kept outside and wet (rain or dock), the splash rail may absorb water and swell up ... popping the end off the boat as the wood tries to straighten.  Saw that happen on a non-GA skiff once.  The heavy screw that goes into deep wood is your back-up.  I think it's the only metal that I suggest putting in the boat too (not counting finishing with fittings and gear etc).

Brian

[Todd j]

Groovy.  Got another one.  I found the weight of the finished boat in the plans, but couldn’t find the weight of the hull for the flip.  For some reason I had 900-1000 pounds stuck in my head.  Do you know how close that number is?

Thx

[Brian.Dixon]

Groovy.  Got another one.  I found the weight of the finished boat in the plans, but couldn’t find the weight of the hull for the flip.  For some reason I had 900-1000 pounds stuck in my head.  Do you know how close that number is?

Thx

That's about right.  I can look it up in the CG spreadsheet this weekend....

Brian

[Todd j]

Ok.  I’m still a couple weeks maybe longer.  Considering rolling the dice on using the boat barn structure for the flip.  If I spread the load out I may be fine.  I think I over doubled the strength of the rafters by sistering the scissor trusses to the exit rafters    Slow and easy we’ll see

[Brian.Dixon]

Ok.  I’m still a couple weeks maybe longer.  Considering rolling the dice on using the boat barn structure for the flip.  If I spread the load out I may be fine.  I think I over doubled the strength of the rafters by sistering the scissor trusses to the exit rafters    Slow and easy we’ll see

I've seen people use a couple of chain hoists and do it all by themselves ... I still like the beer and pizza party with a dozen of your friends and rolling the boat over in the front yard ... everyone's excited and having fun, and you're the center of attention ... your baby's coming to fruition ... people love it!  It's a major milestone worthy of lots of photos and group photos

Brian

[Djeffrey]

Remember that trusses are designed to hold weight from the top compressing down. So if you pull weight on the bottom cord of a truss you are pulling on the weakest part. If possible pull weight from the top of the truss, if not able to do that put a couple doubled up 2x6 or 2x8 crossways through the bottom cord to distribute the weight on several trusses...... wear a helmet just in case.😝😝😝😝

[Todd j]

I figure if I can get it hovering off the jig and set it down I’m good to go.  Will definitely not try the bottom cord or lifting from one truss

[Todd j]

I stand corrected.  Spray rails start 4” aft the stem and 4” ahead the stern.  I had said 5 “ in a earlier post

[Todd j]

Ok, so used the profile on sheet 12 for the aux spray rails.  Placing them against the hull adjacent to the chines they turn up or make the flat a v shape  as they are built, since the sides are not square to chine.  In the manual they say that their job is to effectively widen the chine flat.  Should they be flush with the chines?    Or Should there be a slight step from the chine flat to the aux spray rails?    I looked on page 119 but still not sure. 

[Brian.Dixon]

Ok, so used the profile on sheet 12 for the aux spray rails.  Placing them against the hull adjacent to the chines they turn up or make the flat a v shape  as they are built, since the sides are not square to chine.  In the manual they say that their job is to effectively widen the chine flat.  Should they be flush with the chines?    Or Should there be a slight step from the chine flat to the aux spray rails?    I looked on page 119 but still not sure.

Good question ... In looking at the manual, a little more info would be helpful.  Perhaps the following snip of a drawing helps explain how closely the auxiliary spray rails mount to the chine and it's rounded corner.  In a nutshell, I like to mount the aux rail as low as I can, as long as it doesn't overlap the rounded corner of the chine too far ... noting that epoxy will fill small gaps along the bottom of the aux rail if it overlaps too far (it's not critical).

Brian

[Brian.Dixon]

I stand corrected.  Spray rails start 4” aft the stem and 4” ahead the stern.  I had said 5 “ in a earlier post

Actually .... you spotted a weak point in the plans.  In looking at the stem dimensions (with side panels on), you'd have to start the spray rail a lot closer to the bow than I specified.  I need to correct this in the plans.  OTOH, if you want to start 4 or 5 inches back from the stem (for aesthetic reasons), just put a block of wood or a second layer of ply on the inside of the hull where the screw goes and use a screw short enough to stay inside wood.  The possible downsides are that the interior block of wood may conflict with the  bunk installation (easy enough to work around) and/or may complicate lining the inside of the hull with adhesive-back carpet like material ... some people do that to avoid condensation on the inside of the hull while sleeping and it adds insulation to the boat.

Looks like about 2" or so:

PS: A screw is just one option, and it's an optional option.  The curves on the f'w'd third of a GA are not extreme, so perhaps the previously discussed risks are very low.  Besides skipping the f'w'd screw entirely, you could provide some additional backup/strength by adding layer of glass over the forward end of the spray rail - you'd have to fair-in the glass edges.

[Brian.Dixon]

Groovy.  Got another one.  I found the weight of the finished boat in the plans, but couldn’t find the weight of the hull for the flip.  For some reason I had 900-1000 pounds stuck in my head.  Do you know how close that number is?

Thx

That's about right.  I can look it up in the CG spreadsheet this weekend....

Brian

OK ... I looked it up.  The hull, at time of turnover, weighs about 900 lbs for a 26' boat ... and about 1000 lbs for a 30' Kodiak version.  Hope that helps.

Brian