My Official build thread. 27 1/2’ GA

[Todd j]

This seems way to tall.  I did add 4” sole to shear.  My intention is to keep the house “hidden” if you will.  Same size house inside taller hull.  I’m well inside the dimensions for the side panel blanks. 
   What did you all end up with?

[Rbob]

From top of sole to the top of the bulkhead on mine is 46" and 12" from shelf to top of cuddy +-

[Todd j]

Rbob.  Thanks for taking the time to shoot a pic back!   I have the same 12” from top of shear to top of bulkhead.  From the top of the stringers to top of bulkhead is 53 3/4”.  I added 4 inches to the prescribed rip at the bottom since my hull is 4 inches deeper.  I’m not planning to raise the sole in the house.  I’m wondering if this has consequences that I have not thought through.  Like smaller windshields or something goofy. 

   Im confused by your 46” number.  The bulkhead blank by design was 49 3/4” if I understood what I was doing. I’m gonna hold off on it I think until Brian comments. 
   

[Rbob]

It probably is 53" at the center of the bulkhead.

I did raise the sole in the house, same as aft deck 4" .  No consequence not raising the sole, just size the boxes/platform for your seats to sit on so you can see out the  windows etc.

[Todd j]

I see what you mean now.  I planned on leaving the sole in the house on top of the stringers for a lower center of gravity and a not so top heavy look.  I’m thinking it will effect the size of the windshields and really screw with my sliding door plans?

[Todd j]

I had 2 weeks off.  Worked all the time I wanted on the boat.  Some every day.  Sure didn’t get what I wanted finished but oh well.   I took the time to paint the compartments with hatches.  Hope it will aid with inspections and maintenance.  Painted under cuddy sole too.  Hatches and bow should be in next week

[Rbob]

You made some good progress, I wish I would have painted underside before I covered it..  Made extra work for me.  Your cuddy bulkhead looks good.

[Todd j]

Thanks it went in pretty easy. 

[Rbob]

Todd,

When you glass the bulkheads you can tape or staple the glass in place or roll on a coat of epoxy and let it get tacky and install the glass dry, it will stay and not slip then trim around the edges and start rolling on the epoxy.

This is the part I wish I had painted:

[Todd j]

I intend to paint those areas too.  I want to paint under the anchor deck doubler too. Im building like Rbob and plan on using his pulpit design and the anchor winch.  The area below the winch will be for storage and accessible through a rectangular hatch in the center of the forward cuddy bulkhead.  I’m not sure how to glass and fillet the area above the anchor well and below the doubler and still be able to do the same with the front cuddy bulkhead. 

   Brian, what would your suggestion be?   It’s like working your way out of a tomb before yore your done In There.  Would it be advisable to fillet and tape as usual, then paint, then Glue the doubler in flush to the sub-shear?

[Brian.Dixon]

If an area of the boat is going to be inaccessible, either 'hard to get a human in there' or 'not possible to access', then ALL components that build that area must be glassed ahead of time and you must seal all exposed end grain.  Example:  When you have the top of some chamber (a deck for example) ready to install, first make sure that everything inside the to-be-enclosed chamber is glassed, end grain filled and coated to seal, etc so that everything is waterproof.  On the 'enclosing lid piece', also seal all edge grain and make sure that the piece is completely encapsulated and water proof.  NOW you can install it, and if you can't reach in to apply fillets, then you have too put beads of thickened epoxy on nailers/supports etc (or on top edge of web stringers) and press the 'enclosing piece (deck or whatever)' into place and let it cure.  Some things are impossible to fillet after the fact.  That's OK.  Just take steps to ensure that all parts are fully waterproof and encapsulated before final assembly.

Brian

[Todd j]

I finished the front cuddy bulkhead and roughed out a cuddy roof support with handholds.  I also slopped some paint under the cuddy bunks, but ran out of paint before I got a 3rd coat on. 
  I added a inch to the front cuddy bulkhead since my head touched the roof.  I opted for the rarely used true Newport style cuddy. 
  For the cuddy roof support I laminated 4 lAyers of 3/8 ply together with a layer of 19oz biax smack in the middle.  It’s pretty darn strong!  The handholds turned out nice too.  Just not sure how far ahead of the rear bulkhead I will mount them yet. 
  Brian, why not notch the cuddy bulkheads instead of trying to get the roof supports the exact needed length?   I think I will do just this, so I can slide my supports fore and aft and see where the handholds best fit.

[Brian.Dixon]

You can notch the f'w'd and aft cuddy bulkheads for the roof supports if you'd like ... no problem.  Use a Japanese pull saw to cut them off flush with the outer surfaces of the bulkheads.  Don't forget that if you're going to use a commercially made hatch, that your supports will be the side frames for the hatch ... separate them by the right amount for the hatch that you select.

[Todd j]

Right on!  My hatch is on BO.  I’m not going ahead on it until it’s in my hand. 

[Brian.Dixon]

Right on!  My hatch is on BO.  I’m not going ahead on it until it’s in my hand.

Yup!  There's always plenty of other work to do!