My Official build thread. 27 1/2’ GA

[Djeffrey]

It calls for 1/4 inch but I used 3/8. Don’t tell Brian. Lol

[Brian.Dixon]

It calls for 1/4 inch but I used 3/8. Don’t tell Brian. Lol

I heard that!!! 

The doubler is not structural (the 2nd layer on the aft end of the cuddy roof that is just inside the windshield).  It is there to make it easy for you to put those windshield pieces right where you want them, guaranteeing a straight run on the bottom of each.  That's it.  There's more than one way to skin a cat.

Brian

[Todd j]

Brian the question I had was specific to windshield frame doubler not the one you mentioned above.  Did I misread the plans again?

[Brian.Dixon]

Brian the question I had was specific to windshield frame doubler not the one you mentioned above.  Did I misread the plans again?

I think I misread the thread ... my bad. 

[Todd j]

Sooo, after reading the plans again I think maybe I answered my own question about the windshield frame doubler.  I decided it was for building your own Lexan windows.  Although not specifically stated that is what I decided. 

This weekend I built low boy casters fro the jig. It now sits 1” off the floor.  It makes the boat seem a lot smaller, but it is much easier to get in and out of.  Plus I can see all the tools I set on the sheer without climbing back into the boat.   I would build this way again because it allowed me to stand up under the hull while it was upside down.   I also got the windshield mocked up and the roof template installed to scribe the windshields.  I used cardboard.  It sucked so I pulled off until I can get more plywood.  It was worth it to some degree because it seemed like the numbers for the side windshields made the blanks way too narrow.  So it did save me some materials.   

[Brian.Dixon]

I'll have to look up the windshield info just to remind myself, but the basics are that the windshield panels need to be 1/4" (glassed both sides) or greater .... and your choice of rubber H-channel or windows will determine the thickness that the windows need to have.  If you're adding a doubler around the opening, you'll also need to decide what width it needs to be so the H-channel or window frames land on wide enough wood.  If you install the doublers on the inside of the window panels, note that you don't need to glass them if using a smooth wood - one of the mahogany or pseudo-mahogany woods etc.  I do prefer to always at least put 1-1/2 oz glass or heavier on fir plywood since it's a peeled-ply and subject to checking.  I should write a FAQ on that..... And yes, if you just want to cut the whole window panel out of thick enough wood, e.g. 1/2", then that's fine too.  The frames don't weigh much .... it's the windows that are heavy.

bd

[Todd j]

Crystal!

[Todd j]

I have been using okuome for all the after the flip parts.  1/4” is 7 pounds per sheet lighter than hydro tech plywood for comparison purposes

[Todd j]

Anything super wrong with this idea?

[Djeffrey]

Looks great. Should work fine. Mine is very similar, I put my bathroom on the starboard side, then put windows on the forward and aft walls so I can see through it while driving. No blind spot. It’s fun doing something other then epoxy, sand, epoxy. 🙂🙂🙂

[Todd j]

I would like to do that,  but I want a steering station in the cockpit.   No bathroom odors in the house!

[Todd j]

It’s been awhile since I put up pics.  The anchor well is now completely closed in.  It’s overkill, but the piece in the pic is a 1 1/8” thick just like the sheer.  It’ll get covered with a 1/2” finished off Rbob pulpit special!   Thanks again. 
    I raised the sole to sheer number 4 1/4 inches on my hull.  So I put another 3” chunk of lvl on top of my stringers.  With standard house dimensions  I should have an extra 1 1/4” of no head bonky in the house.  My plan is to slope the cockpit from 5” aft of the house downward to the transom with a 1/2” crown to the sides of the cockpit.  Anyone done this?   I was thinking an 1 1/4”-1 1/2” down slope. 
   I’m not sure what to do about freeing ports.  I think they need to go aft through the transom.  Any big concerns if I drill 2-4 2” holes in the transom?   Cannon called it.  Add 4” to the sheer and center punch the spray rails.  I did the smiley spray rails and they are not per plan.  They are still in the way. 

P.s.  sorry about your neck today Rbob😊

[json]

That's gonna be a solid deck, almost 2 inches thick! I made my anchor well sole an inch and it's pretty good, double that is gonna be solid as a rock. Looking good, The compartment looks super clean.

I also have wondered about the freeing ports. I plan to do a similar crown, but kind of want to run the scuppers out the sides as far aft as the cockpit will go. Not sure if running them out the sides will be a safety issue or not, would love to hear more. 

[Todd j]

I just read Brian say no mess with cutting on the motor boards!   So they will have to go outside.   I think I’m not going to crown the deck with amount of slope I have.  It is probably more than necessary.   I did find a spot where I am a 1 1/4”  above the spray rails for freeing ports.  I really hope the boat will self tend with 1500 pounds of fuel in her belly.  Monday I will shop my drawings and stir the can of Vaseline.
   Here’s some recent pics.  Got all the windshield frames in and still picking away at the inside of the cuddy.  I cut a big hole in the roof since it was really dark in there.  I’m running out of things to do while I wait on tanks that I haven’t ordered yet.

[Djeffrey]

Nice progress