My Official build thread. 27 1/2’ GA

[Brian.Dixon]

Ha!  Why didn't I think of that? 

[Rbob]

Todd,

A couple more finished pics.  When sanding I held the tube against the side of the boat and blend it in to the side angle on the pulpit. 

 

[Todd j]

That looks great.  I planed about 3/8” of the lvl to make it look less blocky.  It’s pretty beefy!

I got tired of sanding and Spreading epoxy.  I built the decks for the house and the aft house bulkhead today.  I did a mock up of my stand up head.  Made it bigger than the drawing I posted awhile back.  Ended up with more room port to starboard than I thought!   That’s a win

[Brian.Dixon]

Looking fantastic, and great progress!  Really like how the anchor pulpit turned out ... very professional.  Your filled screw holes look so perfect, I have to assume you used my suggested fill method right (over-fill, cure, scrape off flush w/carbide scraper)? 

Brian

[Rbob]

Yes, and used the carbide scraper after using the infamous Shinto File Rasp to get it almost perfect.
 

[Todd j]

Yes, Rbob makes stuff that’s easy on the eyes!

I did a mock up of the plan for doors and windows in the aft house bulkhead. 
The door on the port side is for a stand up head.  I didn’t want smells to get into the house.  I figure it will also make a handy spot for hanging wet gear.  I will start out with a porta potty and see how much it gets used.  Maybe down the road add a marine head.  With the bulkheads mocked up for the head I was still able to lay down and not touch the aft cuddy bulkhead. 

[Rbob]

I wouldn't worry about smells in the boat, stuff happens...  Maybe a power ventilator and vent inlet from outside the cabin so smells get exhausted quickly.

Will the only access be from outside the cabin?

Looking good!

[Todd j]

Outside is the only planned access.  I don’t know how much use it will really get, access from inside the house requires much more space inside the head.  One way or the other it’s the same amount of moving parts I think.  The photo makes the door to the head look out of square, but it is not

[Todd j]

I have been plowing through the epoxy lately.  3 deck pieces lightly glassed on the underside and have the rear cabin bulkhead ready for glass.  I been using up some odd shaped pieces of glass that are left over from other projects.  Only doing this on stuff that will be buried under decks.  Did some more sanding and filling in the cuddy too.  Tanks should be home soon.  Maybe a couple weeks.  I will be installing a 20 gallon water tank too. 

[Todd j]

I’m done messing around inside the cuddy for the most part now.  My 20 gallon water tank and water pump showed up.  Shower sump pump and blower motor should be home Monday.  I glassed more parts this weekend.  6 bulkheads to hold conduits and fuel lines and such.  I’m going to buy or rent a conduit blanket heater or box for bending the conduits instead of using fittings.  I think it will be easier and much cleaner.  I plan to run fresh air from a dorade box and cowl fitting from just in front of the port side windshield through a hanging locker through the forward house bulkhead and into the fuel tank compartments.  Don’t know where it will exhaust yet.   It’s nice to have added so much to the top of the stringers.  It will allow me to cut all kinds of holes I. Them without touching the actual structural design of the boat.  Glad I done it this way so far. 

[Brian.Dixon]

Looking forward to all the details on your water systems - Not sure that anyone else has posted much on that topic.

When you drill holes through stringers, keep the edge of the holes at least 2" from the top or bottom of the main (LVL) stringers - noting that wood added to the tops of the main stringers counts as part of the main stringers... except for the outboard web stringers (plywood).  The web stringers are less about being structural and more about stiffening, e.g. preventing skin flex in the hull and in the decks.

Brian

[Todd j]

Brian, why would it matter if I drill a big hole through the extra stringer I added to the main stringer?   My build plan has me using this extra meat as a way to pass through the stringers in several different ways.  Conduit, piping, wiring, etc.   I will be required to notch the added stringer tops to lower the fuel tanks into place.  The only way around this would be to completely cut them out and add a rip outside the stringers if you follow.  I hope this oversight isn't a too big a deal.  If so, I may need some counseling

[Brian.Dixon]

Brian, why would it matter if I drill a big hole through the extra stringer I added to the main stringer?   My build plan has me using this extra meat as a way to pass through the stringers in several different ways.  Conduit, piping, wiring, etc.   I will be required to notch the added stringer tops to lower the fuel tanks into place.  The only way around this would be to completely cut them out and add a rip outside the stringers if you follow.  I hope this oversight isn't a too big a deal.  If so, I may need some counseling

Let me clarify on holes through the main stringers:

• IF you did NOT raise the deck, e.g. the underlying stringer height, then you MUST keep holes 2" or further from the top or bottom of the stringer in order to maintain required strength
• If you DID raise the deck as shown below, then you have 2 options ... 1) Maintain the extra strength of the taller stringer by keeping holes further than 2" from the top or bottom of the heightened stringer (left-hand example below), or 2) Maintain NO LESS than the original stringer's strength by cutting holes AT or ABOVE the top of the original stringer.  Either option is FINE and I think most go with the example on the right.

[Todd j]

I will need to use the option on the right of your picture.  Only because the fuel tank's tops need to be about 2" below the top of the added stringer.  If you look back to post 453 you can get a pretty good look at my stringers and you can see where the step is.
  Soooo, Im wondering about the prospect of extra weight carrying capacity on the transom?  I cant recall exactly, but at the transom I think the stringers are an extra 3" taller than design.  The originals are wrapped in glass.  I routed the tops radius ed over for the glass to follow.  The additional stringer was glued on top.  There is a nice fat fillet there. the added stringer was also rounded over and it  too was wrapped with glass.  Im still having this fantasy of twin 115 evinrudes mounted directcly on the transom with Idock.  The data i saw last night has a particular 115 part number at 390 pounds.  For 2 of them that isnt much weight over design.  At what point is too much weight just that?

[Brian.Dixon]

I will need to use the option on the right of your picture.  Only because the fuel tank's tops need to be about 2" below the top of the added stringer.  If you look back to post 453 you can get a pretty good look at my stringers and you can see where the step is.
  Soooo, Im wondering about the prospect of extra weight carrying capacity on the transom?  I cant recall exactly, but at the transom I think the stringers are an extra 3" taller than design.  The originals are wrapped in glass.  I routed the tops radius ed over for the glass to follow.  The additional stringer was glued on top.  There is a nice fat fillet there. the added stringer was also rounded over and it  too was wrapped with glass.  Im still having this fantasy of twin 115 evinrudes mounted directcly on the transom with Idock.  The data i saw last night has a particular 115 part number at 390 pounds.  For 2 of them that isnt much weight over design.  At what point is too much weight just that?

Twin 115s will work fine on your 27-1/2 GA.  How much gear, appliances, and tanks will you have f'w'd?  Battery placement?

bd