My Official build thread. 27 1/2’ GA

[json]

Todd, I must be missing it, I feel like I saw it somewhere but can't find it now. What kind of foam are you using for your refer?

[Todd j]

I used 3 inch polyisocyanurate foil each side paid a little extra for something that could be exposed on one side. It was faced white.  What are you up to?

[json]

I used 3 inch polyisocyanurate foil each side paid a little extra for something that could be exposed on one side. It was faced white.  What are you up to?

Thanks... I am going to be building a fish/ice box under the cockpit sole, and probably a fridge like yours but I am holding off on any building out inside the ph until I get the exterior finished. I am gearing up to do the fish hold tho, so putting together a plan of sorts for that. I think polyisocyanurate was what I was planning on using, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something silly that I was going to regret later.

[Todd j]

All I can say is it sands Nice and
takes epoxy. 

[json]

All I can say is it sands Nice and
takes epoxy. 

that's all one can hope for right?

[Todd j]

What thickness.   I too want to insulate a big fish box between the stringers

[json]

I was thinking about doing 2". The space starts to get pretty small though, even with my cockpit sole raised by 5" taking off 4" for foam thickness doesn't leave a lot, so I might do 1".

[Todd j]

Brian, any issues with shoving the web stringers up against the under deck piping?   I would only be able to tape one side.   Looking at all this glorious space to put stuff. 
 

[Brian.Dixon]

The web stringers are there primarily as a deck support, much less as a boat strength item.  You can pretty much put them anywhere in the 'middle third or so' between the main stringers and the chine ... just eliminate deck flex and you're good to go.

[Todd j]

One more compartment all but rapped up

[Brian.Dixon]

Looking good!  You're doing nice neat work ... pride of ownership

[Todd j]

I'm looking at trying g my hand on some bright work.   I need a sexy vaneer  to skin the cabinet doors and a few other things.  It probably needs to be 1/4" to to caver the hinge pockets.   Or I do a pseudo raised panel, which doesn't seem very boaty to me. Or I find different hinges.  These self closers wont allow the doors to slam.  I like that.

[Todd j]

Doors ready for hinges.  I’m mostly happy with the way the corners turned out.  That was the most difficult part of the project.   All glasses up I’m about a sexy 1/8” gap.  I have all the hinges and hardware on hand just need some time.   I’m temporarily out of plywood so wrapping up a few loose ends. 

[Todd j]

Galley sink plan

[Rbob]

Coming along nicely Todd. I hope 1/8" is enough gap for your door, you will know once you get the hinges installed.  You did not ask but I will give my 2c, you may already know this.

Hinges will have some play so when you drill / mortise the holes make sure you pre-stress the hinges.  I believe I installed hinges on the door first  then wedged the door in place then pulled (spread) the upper hinge and made a pencil mark and pushed the bottom hinge together and made a pencil mark.  Then lined up the mortise jig to those marks.

Jig was easy to make.