My Official build thread. 27 1/2’ GA

[Todd j]

I shouldn’t say I’m over budget.  I just spent a lot of money on stuff I didn’t know I wanted!   I’m just glad I’m not in a spot where I’m trying to save money on the build.    Yet...?

[Brian.Dixon]

I shouldn’t say I’m over budget.  I just spent a lot of money on stuff I didn’t know I wanted!   I’m just glad I’m not in a spot where I’m trying to save money on the build.    Yet...?

And if you hit a budget limit, it's OK to get the boat in the water and useful first, then fill out the details later as budget allows ... many builders are "pay-go" builders that add and enhance as the dollars become available.

[Grady300]

I shouldn’t say I’m over budget.  I just spent a lot of money on stuff I didn’t know I wanted!   I’m just glad I’m not in a spot where I’m trying to save money on the build.    Yet...?

And if you hit a budget limit, it's OK to get the boat in the water and useful first, then fill out the details later as budget allows ... many builders are "pay-go" builders that add and enhance as the dollars become available.

Yes sir!! I'm buying motors instead of paint...hahahaha

[Todd j]

Awesome!!  I still have this fantasy of of the joystick control even after the death of Evinrude.  The Yamaha version is only 1 billion dollars, so maybe??  Just kidding.  I really do like the no hydraulics offered with the steer and wire throttle.  Time to start kicking tires.   I haven't even built either of my helm stations yet since I don't know what I what I'm willing to pay for yet.

[Grady300]

Awesome!!  I still have this fantasy of of the joystick control even after the death of Evinrude.  The Yamaha version is only 1 billion dollars, so maybe??  Just kidding.  I really do like the no hydraulics offered with the steer and wire throttle.  Time to start kicking tires.   I haven't even built either of my helm stations yet since I don't know what I what I'm willing to pay for yet.

I'm sticking with old school. Going with Seastar hydraulic steering and mechanical Binnacle. Not only for cost savings but more so because it just like the way if feels more hands on. I'm also a lot better at fixing mechanical stuff myself. Joy stick stuff does sound real cool I will admit. If it wasn't so dang expensive I might go that way. Twins and a bow thruster are the next best thing. Maybe when Brian designs a 45 footer liveaboard I will go with the joystick!!!

[Todd j]

With a single main, there is autopilot and E-anchor and pretty much unlimited boat positioning in current and wind, with Yamaha.  Whatever, still a fantasy

[Brian.Dixon]

With a single main, there is autopilot and E-anchor and pretty much unlimited boat positioning in current and wind, with Yamaha.  Whatever, still a fantasy

A year after spending the money, you'll have forgotten the expense ... well, unless you're married!  LOL ... seriously, you recover from the extra expenditure fairly quickly and will enjoy the boat for a loooong time ... keep that in perspective and go blow your kids' inheritance!

[Todd j]

The first shot is the transom and deck and splash well laid out in 2D just like sheet 021a.  It seems to work, it also works taking the 4" off the 2 dims. as described in the key notes.  I'm using 26 1/8" and 21 3/4" instead of 30 1/8" and 25 3/4".  Taking 1 " off for every inch of a 4" jack plate.

The second shot shows the real dim. squared off the router notch in the transom as in intersect the 26 1/8" line as lasered across the boats beam.  It should be 21 3/4".

the third shot  better shows the vertical 26 1/8" line as it intersects the transom notch for the splash well.  21 3/4" just about puts me at the 30 1/8" mark.

FWIW the sides of the splashwell are 6 degrees off square of a transom that's leaning aft 14 degrees, but I don't see where that messes me up.
The numbers are within a margin of error in my case if I pull the the 21 3/4" dim. from the aft face of the transom.
Anyone know where I'm tripping up here?

[Brian.Dixon]

I didn't get out the drawings or CAD files, but at first glance, your reasoning and measurements appear correct ... the fore/aft adjustment versus bracket length is most important so you can tilt your motor all the way up.  Use a jack plate and you can tune height as required ... note also that when using a bracket of any length, that the water rises behind the boat around an inch for every 10" of bracket (depends on loading), so you'll be tuning motor height anyway. I highly recommend manual jack plates ... (hydraulic ones just don't get used enough to justify their bulk, weight, and cost ... IMHO).  BTW, I *love* seeing a 4" bracket/jack plate used ... keeps the motor close yet gives you the adjustability that you want.  Second best bracket/jack plates are the 6" ones.

[Todd j]

It sounds like your not scared!   I will look it over again then proceed

[Brian.Dixon]

It sounds like your not scared!   I will look it over again then proceed

Skeered o'whut? 

[Todd j]

On my to do list is find Suzuki rough in dims.  I will let everyone know what I find

[Todd j]

well, I called the local Suzi dealer and while they could not find the dims I asked for they were kind enough to measure some boats.  They said the smallest dimension in the opening was 3'-6".  That's a lot of room To give up!  I reread the Dan B thread too.  He went 40" and it was not enough room and he said it should be a couple inches bigger.  Sooo I'm gonna butcher the transom opening and go with the 42" number.  Better to lose a sheet of plywood now, than find nothing works at all after paint.

[Brian.Dixon]

well, I called the local Suzi dealer and while they could not find the dims I asked for they were kind enough to measure some boats.  They said the smallest dimension in the opening was 3'-6".  That's a lot of room To give up!  I reread the Dan B thread too.  He went 40" and it was not enough room and he said it should be a couple inches bigger.  Sooo I'm gonna butcher the transom opening and go with the 42" number.  Better to lose a sheet of plywood now, than find nothing works at all after paint.

The good news is that above the top edge of the motor boards (LVL), the transom doesn't need to be nearly so strong as it is from the motor boards (inclusive) downward.  If you go wide, change your mind later ... no problem patching in ply to make the cut-out narrower (glass and fair and paint).  Same goes for too narrow ... you can cut the cut-out wider after the fact if you need to.

[ghelland]

Todd, I have the Suzuki information you are looking for.  Send me a PM and I will send you the file.