My Official build thread. 27 1/2’ GA

[json]

Heck ya, there is no arguing with that setup. That's gonna be killer.

[tom e]

I may have missed it in the preceding discussion, but what are you using for non-skid?

te

[Todd j]

TE, griptex from awl grip.  fine and coarse 50/50

[Todd j]

I started to mount some hinges and pulls to hatches, doors and other stuff.  I had some minor annoyances with things not fitting just as they did before paint or potting the screw holes with epoxy.  I'm not sure why, but even when predrilled with the correct size bit for the screw I had some screws that just kind of stripped the epoxy and never grabbed.  I have no explanation as to why some grabbed, and some did not.  Any thoughts??
  I am also having a rough time with the pilothouse door.  I rehung it without too much trouble, but the striker plate is kind of giving me fits.  I fear I will have to move some material and re-epoxy it.  Also, I am not so happy with the bulb seal.  It doesn't compress enough to close the door, which is adding to my striker plate woes.  The bulb seal is getting pinched on the hinge side by the edge of the door instead of the face of the door.  Also, the channel that clamps around the flange at 1/4" is a tad scant.  I don't think it will last very long without falling off the door opening.
  What I learned...
1) I made the door too close to the size of the opening, 1/16"-1/8" gap.  3/16'-1/4" gap all the way around would have been a bit easier. 
2) The flange size on the hinged side of the door, that the bulb seal clamps onto should be wider than the rest of the flange.  This would have allowed the bulb seal to seal against the face of the door instead of the edge.  By doing this you maximize the opening.
3) I think the 3/8" bulb seal is too big and should be 1/4" in my case.  I know others have used it and I am curious how happy they are with the installation.

As always, please feel free to comment or offer a suggestion.

[Rbob]

I will give my 2c for what its worth!

1. Stripped screws?  Easy, drill it out leaving a little room for the screw to grab at the bottom, a larger hole 2x screw diameter. Pre-wet hole couple coats with q-tip and when good and tacky fill with high density filler and just snug up the screws with hinge attached and let it cure. If you need to move the hinge now is the time, even cut the door back on hinge side to if you need to gain clearance.  You may get away with painting the edge of the door only.  Clip from Georgeon Book below.

2. Bulb seals have a compression spec, something like 25%.  If you remove the seal does the door open/close without binding?  Maybe a smaller seal on the hinge side.  Its tough without pics.

[Todd j]

I will give my 2c for what its worth!

1. Stripped screws?  Easy, drill it out leaving a little room for the screw to grab at the bottom, a larger hole 2x screw diameter. Pre-wet hole couple coats with q-tip and when good and tacky fill with high density filler and just snug up the screws with hinge attached and let it cure. If you need to move the hinge now is the time, even cut the door back on hinge side to if you need to gain clearance.  You may get away with painting the edge of the door only.  Clip from Georgeon Book below.

2. Bulb seals have a compression spec, something like 25%.  If you remove the seal does the door open/close without binding?  Maybe a smaller seal on the hinge side.  Its tough without pics.

I think I can do something like the in the snapshot you proposed re: the epoxy holes.  I discovered another easy solution that cures most of the problems.  I can thrubolt the hinges on a couple hatch hinges and that will work better. 
  The door does not bind and I dont think I need to trim it, but I would never make another one this close to the opening size.  Having said that the Perko doorhandle with lock, I think you have one very similar doesnt give a fellow much wiggle room.  The curvy part of the striker plate needed to recess into the opening and is flush with the bulkhead, a minor annoyance.  The bulb seal touches the interior of the door handle trim plate and uses some room my fingers need to use the small lever to open and close the door.  If the door was any smaller there would not be much of the deadbolt and door locky thing into the striker plate.  This confirms what I said above about only widening the flange on the hinge side too.  In The meantime i will keep the door closed and try to smoosh the seal a bit.  I will post up some pics but be gentle

[Rbob]

I had to sink my striker plate to make it close easier.

Trim-lok has a video on choosing bulb size but basically they put clay in 4 corners and measure the thickness, compression of 25-50% 
A 1/4" gap would only need a .3 to .37 bulb seal.   3/8" bulb seal, is 50% compression.

Thinking about the door alignment, I just realized your hinges mount on the door jamb opening.  In the car world (I adjust doors to fit almost every day)  If your top of door is sticking out move the bottom hinges out.  I would remove the lower hinge screws pull the door out a bit and install one screw and test how it fits when closed.  You may have several attemps to get it right and may use more than one hinge hole since once a hole is drilled it is hard to move it. 

On edit, you have 4 hinges so remove the screws from the bottom 3 hinges, I am thinking you should drill. fill all the lower holes with epoxy then make your adjustment that way you could do several different adjustments putting a screw into a fresh hole. With the door open 90 degrees move the lower part of the door away from the jamb maybe 1/8" and fit one screw and test fit without the bulb seal installed!.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NL40XTK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fixed pics:

[Todd j]

Thx, FWIW, I used the same detail you did.  I used5/8” as the dimension for the flange on the inside of the opening.  For now I’m gonna just run what I brung!
I bet the seal over time will lose some springy-ness and the door will take less force to close as time goes on.
 I did not run into the same edge pinch on the smaller PH door.  So the extra. Bit of gap made some difference using same flange width.   They won’t rattle I bet

[Todd j]

Rbob, I missed the door alignment suggestion when I read this earlier.  If I’m understanding correctly you are suggesting moving the door slab further aft everywhere except the top hinge?  Is that right?

[Rbob]

re: If I’m understanding correctly, you are suggesting moving the door slab further aft everywhere except the top hinge?

Yes.
Try this, twist the handle and slowly close the door. Does the bottom of the door make contact first?   This will make the door hard to close and it will not get better.

An 1/8" out on the bottom hinge is a big movement.  You have holes already drilled which is why you will need to fill them.

 For starters I would fill the lower hinge screw holes (I would drill your screw holes out to 5/16"-3/8" before filling) then take out the screws on the middle hinges (leave the middle screws out until door is adjusted and fits, then fill them).

Keep in mind with only hinge only you will want someone to steady the door when you remove the center hinge screws and you are ready to drill and install a lower hinge screw

How many screws go in the hinges? 3-4? This gives you 3-4 tries for adjustment.  Pull the door out say 1/8" inch at the bottom, drill and install one screw and test the fit without bulb seal in place and turn the handle or take out the latch so it does not fight you when you check the fit.

Once you get the door to fit without binding you can address the striker issue and it may correct itself.

I have large gaps on my door on purpose (maybe a little larger than I would like) The door does not hit anywhere and if my hinges sag at all the door there is no danger of my door hitting the jamb.   

[Todd j]

I did a walk around tour of the boat after window install, before I wrapped it up again.  I’ve made a little more progress since I shot the video.
https://youtu.be/Ie1HD9-YDu0

[Rbob]

What a great video tour and a great job you have done.  You have something to be proud of Todd!  Good on you.

Cant wait to see it splash! 

[json]

Dang, your boat is looking great! Nice tour, you are gonna be on the water in no time! Certainly got every inch out of your shop hahaha...

[Todd j]

Thanks guys. Without the pulpit I could have built to 28 feet and still had 4 inches to spare.  Right now I think I have about 3” to spare if you count what is behind the kicker bracket and in front of the pulpit.   As is, I cannot mount the bowsprit without opening the end of the building.  It’s tight end to end but it fits!

[Grady300]

Awesome video, what a sweet looking boat. Ya did a very professional job!!!! Well done!!!