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Messages - Ed Snyder

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211
Laminated the tranny with 2 x 6mm ply, short of room so built in inside the hull. Borrowed the bricks.....

212
Tranny on, looking at putting a door in, Mmmmmm, lotta work an lot of brain freezes, glazing eyes, coffee ana smoke had it sorted last w/e!

213
ammuzzing readng lol, well I've bin chomping at da bit here - lottsa thunking to avoid um, things that go bump in the knee.

214
When designing the galley so the wahine can whip up some kai whilst you hunt ol' ika nui .... check the back of the oven for gas fittings, dont just build the woodwork based on the bumf from the brochure..... otherwise it will sit forward on the plinth and make it impossible to open the doors of the drawers beside it... well thats not the worst option, the other flash gas stove had a pipe fitting that came straight out the side and into the companionway!!! it wasnt left/right optional and it was  very expensive ( read cheap Italian schitt for the 1st world countries)otherwise we could have drilled a hole into the sink bench and all would have been kapai.
Now dont laught too hard at me and my floating muckups Ed, coz at least all our muckups are afloat and capable of taking us out fishing!!!!   :P :P  Mmmmmmm muttta mutta mutta

More design errors to follow...

215
If you are going to use the space under the captains chair for a fridge think about the door opening... we didnt. Once we installed the very fancy canter table/engine cover thingo we couldnt open the expensive fancy fridge thingo... Oh Farko we said.. result is a big waste of now unusable fridge space and a loss of money on compressors and chiller stuff.. hehe

216
Hey there Ed. finally got out to the boat, had to pump out the bilges after all that rain last 2 weeks. Whilst there I took a few foters of things not to do... and some done by me I will just have to tell later.

1st off is the reason why I came to this site, looking for cabin ideas.  OK if the writing dont come out clear the red lines show the wasted space This space usually houses the loo or shower or hanging lockers, never wasted - this space in my boot will house the loo/shower an udder side a locker an drawers caused by the raked streamline cabin.. bit of a stupid idea Mmmmmmm.... for something designed to do 12 knots max. remove da packed mud from under the peddle bud
, that'll get you a few more k's lol   

The green is the potential space gained by a forward facing screen ala Prince Whatever, sorry Bryan if I bastardized your design drawing it...  dont cry too much. sob, think the boot looks ok, but perhaps chain saw it in half and add a few feet.....? I didn't say that...

217
Here's a lnk to photobucket of my transom lamination/build
http://s832.photobucket.com/albums/zz247/Da-Edster/
Go to page 7

218
Jim, you sound the perfect bloke to build your own boat for real!
I started building the Prince Rupert, had the hull built and glassed inside a few months with about the same time off you have.
I'm a boat builder, did 3.5 yrs of a 5 yr apprenticeship with Cooke Brothers in Christchurch New Zealand oh about 100 yrs ago. Finished my time as a Carpenter/Joiner, didn't like fibreglass boatbuilding that they got into big time.

Plywood was invented I believe in the USA for building lightweight strong PT boats during WWII, this fact hasn't changed, it is still the most affordable lightest material to build boats from.
If you feel the ply isn't strong enough and up the thickness- don't, it has all been done before without failures ok.

6 of us 'ol fellas flipped the hull over, I built on another 4 ft so it is bigger than the 28 ft planed build.

The hull is glassed both sides and will out-last you and me if we repair any damage - well heck I miss da darn dock some times ok....
Utube fibreglassing for lessons, or just read the comprehensive build manual Brian wrote, and there are some of us here on this forum to answer questions. Don't like sanding glass? Use 'peel ply' when glassing, leaves a smooth sanding free surface for the next laminate or paint job.
http://s832.photobucket.com/albums/zz247/Da-Edster/ is a comprehensive photo album of my build, ask and I can find other photos I took for more details.

The build is famously 'stitch'n glue' no stringers or chine or keel timbers to 'shape' for the ply sheeting to fit flat on when glue time arrives....

Keep her light in the build process - VERY important, she will be cheap to run, and cheap to build.

The trailer for carting her around costs the price of a years pen/marina fees, no brainer here, run her off your pension.

Nothing beats a good 'ol arm chair in the boat shed Jim!
Good times for that glass of red, and cruise the 'net' for updates on my or others builds.

Call me Jim, love to chat, +61439083714 (Australia)

Ed

219
Don't make decisions on that motor based on my input ...I'm asking questions, not answering them!  I would just look into it a bit and find out for sure what the whole story is before committing.
I underkastumble, alas, I dont really know either, I have had no time to really research, I wish to visit Muzzas friend here in Perth, "hav'a beer" an shoot da breeze a bit with him on all things nautical so to speak...

Diesel is compatible with epoxy, so you should be able to build your tanks.  Tanks outboard or inboard of the outer bearers (web stringers) should be fine.  Outboard will slow roll a tad but "in the noise" if you know what I mean.  How much fuel are you thinking of?  Keep it amidships or slightly aft, e.g. don't put it forward nor all the way in the stern.  Also ...check with your insurance company.  Sometimes homemade built-in tanks increases insurance costs, e.g. a repeating year after year payment, while commercially built tanks don't ...the long run savings may more than pay for the commercially built tanks.  That's IF the insurance rates are higher for built-ins.  Check and see... Most insurance companies are not keen with 'I built it myself'...
Mmmmmm, insurance huh? yea...... scourge of da sea's dem da bean counters! Keel haul'm I say!  >:(
Tanks thinking from aboat 22" forward of the rear transom to aboat 3M forward, there's aboat 600 Lt there (pints lol)


Love the idea of all that space midships free for useful stowage, then theres the grey water tank forward of the fuel tank Port side.....
Brian

A bit to do b4 floors are down huh!
Ed

220
The motor:  Yes, higher rev for extended times, but also working hard the whole time... like driving up a steep hill with your gas pedal 80% of the way down just to break even, and then keeping it that way.  That's why marine motors have to have oversize tough bearings and good heat management.  Pushing a 4.2 to 200 hp?  That must involve some after market mods I'm guessing, e.g. high pressure pump etc.  Heck Brian, I dont like the sound of any of this, Looking at other donks now

I can't remember what I said in the instructions, but I always use 10-oz for the sheathing on the stringers.  Remember that you are not trying to build a 'structural' glass treatment, e.g. that would require several more layers of glass, but are just trying to give them a tough (and stiff) outer layer.  The beams alone provide the strength and the glass is not taken into account when the calculations are done.  You could get by with 6 or even 4 ounce if you wanted to save epoxy, but I prefer the 10.

Cheers, 2 X double bias on tape to hull (36 oz) then 8 oz the rest - I have in stock. ditto all other bearers etc.
I'm building in the diesel tanks Brian, that area will have 18 oz 'liner' and 3 coats resin all over. looking at using the area from main bearers chine, but perhaps not if it's going to compromise motion while at ankor, early days yet.

Brian

221
You got Herb, his wife and I chomping at the bit now! Shes a race! In the tide by Dec 2010!
Nice job too. Post more pix, I will do the same here.


Mmmmmmmm.......... life has it's challanges, changes course a few times, moving on now, maybe in the tide mid 2013?

222
Yea, I agree on the mix ratio's. One of my suppliers saying he once mucked up a mix, did 4 to 1 - 2 to 1 should have been mixed, well, it still went off, took a little longer, all was fine, think the brew was also from two different manufacturers too. I'm not keen to do that. You know it's the hardener that gives people "epoxyitus" it's a potent brew that stuff.
Long ago a friend building a concrete yacht in Christchurch NZ got his epoxy supplies from Shell oil in Lyttleton Harbour at half the usual price, anyone reading this can perhaps do research to see if this is still the case some place.
On another note Brian, whats the layup over those bearers? Also the 3/4" intermediate bearers?

Filleting flat out, glassing and floors over the next week

The TD42 is turbo I understand and can produce up to 200 HP, I keep thinking about all that heat under the bonnet.... I thought the Nissan 4.2 was only 92 HP, but with turbo and rechipping the computer can get up to 200 HP?
I know it doesn't pay to turbo the 4.2 as the TD42 has more oil journals etc for cooling, don't know much aboat the bigger bearings Brian, they are fairly bullet proof those donks if built correctly, Thing is, marine donks tend to be run at higher rev range for longer periods than when in vehicles, that's got to be allowed for if I am to build the marine version of the TD42....

Ed

223
Off Topic / House keeper
« on: April 25, 2012, 11:33:39 AM »
I need one.
Any body know of a lovely lady to do mine whilst boat building?

Spec's:-
Blonde
34 35 ish
55 kgs
no kids
no baggage

Ed

224
Off Topic / ANZAC
« on: April 25, 2012, 11:31:05 AM »
Lest we forget

225
Great answers!
All good on the mumbo on the design, eye did underkastumble right up to wen me eyes started to glaze ova a bit.. :-\.. hehe,.

I ground off the offending laminate Brian. Was an important laminate.
Yes she's been cured a while that existing layup, probably 18 mths or as much as 24!
So all day today been grinding/orbital sanding the entire inside.... got itches to prove it too, an annoyed neighbors to boot! Bummer really, that was the idea to use peal ply, no sanding, oh well, that'll learn me.
Didn't want to have a repeat on ANY surface, got heaps of filleting and some laminating done.

Update/confirmation on propulsion system, Nissan TD42 donk with Vee drive pushing a 4 to 5 blade 13" prop - according to Muzzas mate here in Perth..... I have a non turbo donk in my Nissan Safari 4X4 - still in earthquake city - Christchurch NZ, I'll be shipping here to Perth soon, so just my re-power that too with a TD42.

Now, where'd I see the job in the mines advertized?
Hear they pay superb money....  ???

Ed

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