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Projects - Glacier Boats of Alaska boat projects / Re: Ed's boat in Perth
« on: May 21, 2012, 11:08:52 AM »
Laminated the tranny with 2 x 6mm ply, short of room so built in inside the hull. Borrowed the bricks.....
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When designing the galley so the wahine can whip up some kai whilst you hunt ol' ika nui .... check the back of the oven for gas fittings, dont just build the woodwork based on the bumf from the brochure..... otherwise it will sit forward on the plinth and make it impossible to open the doors of the drawers beside it... well thats not the worst option, the other flash gas stove had a pipe fitting that came straight out the side and into the companionway!!! it wasnt left/right optional and it was very expensive ( read cheap Italian schitt for the 1st world countries)otherwise we could have drilled a hole into the sink bench and all would have been kapai.
Now dont laught too hard at me and my floating muckups Ed, coz at least all our muckups are afloat and capable of taking us out fishing!!!! Mmmmmmm muttta mutta mutta
More design errors to follow...
If you are going to use the space under the captains chair for a fridge think about the door opening... we didnt. Once we installed the very fancy canter table/engine cover thingo we couldnt open the expensive fancy fridge thingo... Oh Farko we said.. result is a big waste of now unusable fridge space and a loss of money on compressors and chiller stuff.. hehe
Hey there Ed. finally got out to the boat, had to pump out the bilges after all that rain last 2 weeks. Whilst there I took a few foters of things not to do... and some done by me I will just have to tell later.
1st off is the reason why I came to this site, looking for cabin ideas. OK if the writing dont come out clear the red lines show the wasted space This space usually houses the loo or shower or hanging lockers, never wasted - this space in my boot will house the loo/shower an udder side a locker an drawers caused by the raked streamline cabin.. bit of a stupid idea Mmmmmmm.... for something designed to do 12 knots max. remove da packed mud from under the peddle bud
, that'll get you a few more k's lol
The green is the potential space gained by a forward facing screen ala Prince Whatever, sorry Bryan if I bastardized your design drawing it... dont cry too much. sob, think the boot looks ok, but perhaps chain saw it in half and add a few feet.....? I didn't say that...
Don't make decisions on that motor based on my input ...I'm asking questions, not answering them! I would just look into it a bit and find out for sure what the whole story is before committing.
I underkastumble, alas, I dont really know either, I have had no time to really research, I wish to visit Muzzas friend here in Perth, "hav'a beer" an shoot da breeze a bit with him on all things nautical so to speak...
Diesel is compatible with epoxy, so you should be able to build your tanks. Tanks outboard or inboard of the outer bearers (web stringers) should be fine. Outboard will slow roll a tad but "in the noise" if you know what I mean. How much fuel are you thinking of? Keep it amidships or slightly aft, e.g. don't put it forward nor all the way in the stern. Also ...check with your insurance company. Sometimes homemade built-in tanks increases insurance costs, e.g. a repeating year after year payment, while commercially built tanks don't ...the long run savings may more than pay for the commercially built tanks. That's IF the insurance rates are higher for built-ins. Check and see... Most insurance companies are not keen with 'I built it myself'...
Mmmmmm, insurance huh? yea...... scourge of da sea's dem da bean counters! Keel haul'm I say!
Tanks thinking from aboat 22" forward of the rear transom to aboat 3M forward, there's aboat 600 Lt there (pints lol)
Love the idea of all that space midships free for useful stowage, then theres the grey water tank forward of the fuel tank Port side.....
Brian
The motor: Yes, higher rev for extended times, but also working hard the whole time... like driving up a steep hill with your gas pedal 80% of the way down just to break even, and then keeping it that way. That's why marine motors have to have oversize tough bearings and good heat management. Pushing a 4.2 to 200 hp? That must involve some after market mods I'm guessing, e.g. high pressure pump etc. Heck Brian, I dont like the sound of any of this, Looking at other donks now
I can't remember what I said in the instructions, but I always use 10-oz for the sheathing on the stringers. Remember that you are not trying to build a 'structural' glass treatment, e.g. that would require several more layers of glass, but are just trying to give them a tough (and stiff) outer layer. The beams alone provide the strength and the glass is not taken into account when the calculations are done. You could get by with 6 or even 4 ounce if you wanted to save epoxy, but I prefer the 10.
Cheers, 2 X double bias on tape to hull (36 oz) then 8 oz the rest - I have in stock. ditto all other bearers etc.
I'm building in the diesel tanks Brian, that area will have 18 oz 'liner' and 3 coats resin all over. looking at using the area from main bearers chine, but perhaps not if it's going to compromise motion while at ankor, early days yet.
Brian
You got Herb, his wife and I chomping at the bit now! Shes a race! In the tide by Dec 2010!
Nice job too. Post more pix, I will do the same here.