Author Topic: Ed's boat in Perth (Read 125751 times)

Grady300 · « **Reply #135 on:** January 05, 2013, 09:24:35 AM »

Quote from: Ed Snyder on January 05, 2013, 02:09:49 AM

down side up again

WOW that is one huge flip. Are you going to have a little dingy to bring along to get to shore when you anchor off shore?

Brian.Dixon · « **Reply #136 on:** January 05, 2013, 11:53:30 AM »

...Record setting flip!

Ed Snyder · « **Reply #137 on:** January 05, 2013, 09:55:19 PM »

Yep, gotta have a dingy, thinking of an older clinker style, gotta figure out how to load a V8 in it......

Yea Brian, took aboat 3 hrs to flip with A frames I welded up the day b4, what with coffee breaks every 15 min lol.

One part of my thinking could have left her at 28 ft an been about finished with the main structure, better part of me pleased at the planned expansion.

Emailed an outfit over east here, sells SEI after market stern leg parts for Mercruisers etc, half the price an made in USA.
He replied there's a stronger Yamaki brand made in Japan used in the fishing and milatary boats 8m to 12m range. Has a hydraulic gearbox.
Saying it's about 2 to 3 times the cost of Mercruiser and 10 times stronger.
Awaiting prices, keep you posted.

Ed Snyder · « **Reply #138 on:** January 06, 2013, 05:22:43 AM »

Braced underneath for the cut....

I must stress, one needs to really know what he's doing before under takng such mod's!

Note to self.... read the above

Ed Snyder · « **Reply #139 on:** March 24, 2014, 09:47:03 AM »

A few pix of the widening of my GA hull.
I am a boat builder, still did my head in at times, not for home builders to attempt.
Enjoy.
Ed

Ed Snyder · « **Reply #140 on:** March 24, 2014, 09:50:00 AM »

Continuation of diesel tank build

Ed Snyder · « **Reply #141 on:** March 24, 2014, 09:54:10 AM »

Last of the tank build.

Now hull is turned back for hull widening.

Ed Snyder · « **Reply #142 on:** March 24, 2014, 10:01:28 AM »

The strong back built was 'under' the hull and hull bearers sat on this along with sheer shelf supported all to keep the 3 ft gap parallel - perfectly, I didn't want to introduce any twist into the build. Lasers were used extensively here, I use 3 of them in my day job so happy days!

Ed Snyder · « **Reply #143 on:** March 24, 2014, 10:03:53 AM »

Lots of fairing, glassing, sanding, tape tape tape........

Brian.Dixon · « **Reply #144 on:** March 24, 2014, 10:10:50 AM »

Wow! Great update, Ed! Good that you're building heavy ...the boat will need the extra weight now that it's widened.

bd

Ed Snyder · « **Reply #145 on:** March 24, 2014, 10:11:53 AM »

After lottsa filleting, glassing and sanding - hard trailer type anti foul 2 pak paint.....

Dave Collett-Paule · « **Reply #146 on:** March 24, 2014, 03:41:51 PM »

Ed,

That conversion is nothing short of incredible! What is your final beam dimension?

Cheers,

Dave in Homer

Ed Snyder · « **Reply #147 on:** March 25, 2014, 07:26:13 AM »

Hi Dave. wife has now 3.2M beam, er that's about 4 pound 6 shillings and 6 pence hapenny in imperial size.
Short story, you know when the bottom blanks are scarfed from 4 (?) sheets ply? Well, I wanted her to be as long as legally allowed here in OZ, so added another half a sheet, except forgot to cut it in half.... so left it on. 1st mod.
So she's now about 29ft long. I did spread the rear 3 temp moulds further apart to keep that sheer and chine fair. 2nd mod.
2 1/2 yrs later after all undercoat on and sanded to 240 grit, and antifoul on, turned her right side up.
Then interior glassing and ply stringers done.
Got to thunking.
Trailer $18k..... that's 4 yrs marina lease..... Would like more beam for accommodation...
Desided to widen her to 3.2M (most this size are 3.6M) this also lengthened her too. split at the front end - think about it - cant have a flat front now huh, bow was now 900mm forward, thus her is now 10.2M long... so far.... depends where you hold the tape... hull or anchor. 3rd mod.
Draft is now 6" more also now, Got to keep her at 28ft GA LWL or she'll chine walk and just plan be pain ina bum floating about.
Dave your project is looking awesome too, no mods huh, launch her soon, get some of those salmon Brian just loves.

Ed Snyder · « **Reply #148 on:** March 25, 2014, 08:24:29 AM »

Here's one way of getting curved ply, for say the transom - like I did, or cabin coach roof etc.
I used 2 x 1/4 ply for the transom.
1st drew radius I wanted on scrap ply or MDF. I got 3 of these out of 1 sheet. Boat is 8'6" wide so the 3" ova the width of the transom ply/MDF former stayed straight, I didn't tell anyone, they didn't notice!
Had some 2x1 timber strips from the dumpster at work did the trick for nailing on those formers about 1" apart.
Laid 1st sheet on the former and glued up the sheet with wet-ish epoxy - troweled on with 1/4" tilers notched plastic trowel.
Wet out the 2nd sheet with epoxy (b4 I made the balance into glue)
Laid 2nd sheet butter side down on the 1st and temp screwed ONE end of this sheet through the 1st and into the 2x1 timber strips & into the ply/MDF former, didn't the 1st time so when I started laying bricks over the top sheet - pop! timber strip popped off, not good nailing into end grain anything.
See pix for the other thousand words of instruction.... well, a pic is worth a thousand words isn't?

Proof that glue spread was good was when I cut out the transom door (which I cant find now) perfect laminate.

Note:
You will see a 3rd sheet of 18mm ply on top of the 2 @ 1/4 being laminated.
This is not necessary, I have laminated same since without this cover ply - (I didn't have any at the time) it works just fine without it.