Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build

[Rbob]

Actual pics may help, these are from underneath looking over the rear bulkhead:

[Cannon]

So if I scrape the irregularities of the chine seam and fill with micro-baloon fairing compound and do a nice job with troweling it on, can I apply the glass without sanding the fairing compound? 

Like the fillets, let it firm up good and go for it?

In my experience, limited though it may be, it is better to fill, scrape and sand (60-80 grit) prior to glassing. Adding glass over irregular surfaces compounds the original low, high or ridge.
As far as sanding goes, Brian is absolutely right, balling means more cure. Also, coarse paper (40-60 grit) creates less heat meaning less balling allowing you to go farther, faster.


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[Rbob]

I had high hopes on that troweling to perfection, but using 8" and 12" wide glass on the front chine seams was golden!

10-4 on the fill, scrape and sand and #40 and #60 is what I used.  Works great except for the aches in my arms and shoulders.  By the time I get done with this my shoulders will look like this:

[Cannon]

LOL!


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[robertrosie5]

Update time. I glassed and installed the rear bulkhead, put 30 oz of glass on the interior transom. I did the transom interior seams before installing the rear deck. Just need to add stiffeners for the rear deck. I think 3/4" plywood 4" tall mounted in saddles should work. I got really good at bumping my head while underneath.


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[robertrosie5]

this on shows ledger installed.


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[Brian.Dixon]

For working upside down, you're doing very neat work!  Hey ...did you learn a new language when you got your head knocked off?  Reminds me of when I was under my truck, working with a wrench straight up over my face ...dropped the wrench, reactively turned my head super fast to one side ...smack(!) ...right into the suspension!  I about knocked myself out ...geez that hurt.

bd

[Rbob]

Brian,

On that last pic, where the side meets the rear deck, should I add fillet and glass over the ledgers?

Last night I added 30oz to where the transom meets the inner deck, it is tight working especially the side chambers.

I have my supports for the floor cut out, I will glass them with light glass prior to install.
All under deck wood is supposed to have glass correct?

[Rbob]

At work resting up for the night shift, I drew up the floor supports in SkechUp, I will radius the plywood support to make it easy to glass with 1 piece.  I drilled 3/4" hole in the saddle's and used the table saw to cut the slot.  I will be installing these supports on the bottom of the rear deck which is upside down right now so it will be easy to do.  When I drilled the saddles I matched the angle of the transom and rear bulkhead so the support will sit all the way down in the saddle.
See Attached.

For working upside down, you're doing very neat work!  Hey ...did you learn a new language when you got your head knocked off?  Reminds me of when I was under my truck, working with a wrench straight up over my face ...dropped the wrench, reactively turned my head super fast to one side ...smack(!) ...right into the suspension!  I about knocked myself out ...geez that hurt.

bd

I hit my head many times and every time I promised to be more careful. (cussing of course) 

[Brian.Dixon]

Brian,

On that last pic, where the side meets the rear deck, should I add fillet and glass over the ledgers?

Not sure what a "ledger" is, but glass all seams....

I have my supports for the floor cut out, I will glass them with light glass prior to install.
All under deck wood is supposed to have glass correct?

You still working on an upside down boat?  I'm still not sure I get that...

Yes, everything under the deck should be sealed in epoxy and at least lightweight glass, e.g. bottom of deck, stringers etc.  Wood may check (cracks in the surface) if only epoxy coated rather than being glassed and epoxied - and access will be exactly zero once you complete the boat.  You want the insurance of having at least a light layer of glass on everything to prevent checking.

bd

[Rbob]

I should have said "cleats" actually I think it is called a "nailer" in your construction manual, they are supports for the extended transom deck.  Those are solid sapele but was not sure if I have to glass them too.

I will go ahead and glass right over the nailers then.

When I install the main deck I will glass all the short nailers before I install them, man that will be tedious, glass 3 sides and the ends and coat with 3 coats of epoxy before installing. I see what you mean, 50% done and 80% to go once flipped.


"Working on an upside down boat"  As soon as I tape the exterior seams around the transom, rear deck and rear bulkhead I will flip it. 

Hopefully this weekend I will finish up the exterior seams.

[Brian.Dixon]

Oh ...THOSE!  I use solid wood for that because it minimizes the end grain exposure.  I seal the end grain with smooth silica-thickened epoxy, rubbing it in good and leaving it on thick, then give the wood at least 3 coats of epoxy (usually with leftover epoxy while working on other stuff).  I don't glass the nailers... note that they are separated from the hull by a layer of glass and epoxy and rot is not likely to spread anywhere but within the nailer piece of wood.  Once the decks are installed, the nailers are more inconsequential.  What I've also done, is to draw a line on the hull around the perimeter of the (bottom edge of) the decking and then go back with a gallon Ziplog full of thickened epoxy and just squeeze out a line of epoxy, say the size of a dime in diameter, along the line ...let it cure.  Epoxy will not rot.  Once cured the line of epoxy works like a continuous nailer that you can glue the deck down on ...squeeze fresh epoxy around the whole perimeter, on top of the cured 'big bead' of epoxy, and then let the deck settle down onto it.  If your deck fit isn't too far off, this works great.

Brian

[Rbob]

I have a question on the rear seams, I am pretty sure you will say all of them but here goes.

The seams on transom, will get the 30oz glass treatment with biaxial in the mix but should the rear bulkhead (#4 in the pic) get the same 30oz treatment?

On the extended transom deck (upside down now) I am planning on just doing a 1" radius fillet and glass with 4" - 10oz, should I do more on that?

The last pic is just for show, lot of work for just a few pieces. I added 3 under the extended transom.

 

[Brian.Dixon]

I would go with the 30 on the primary transom seams (1 and 2), but probably 20 is fine on 3 & 4.

Looking great, BTW.  Nice neat work ...

bd

[robertrosie5]

Thanks again. Doing the fillets now, after it sets up I will finish off the transom seams.
Floor supports installed:




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