Glacier Boats of Alaska - Builder's Forums
Great Alaskan and Boat Building => General Discussion about the Great Alaskan => Topic started by: BobC on January 02, 2016, 09:07:30 PM
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Well, I feel like I finally have accomplished enough to start posting up my progress.
For those who missed the intro or some of my ramblings on FishyFish, I am building a GA kinda like myself. Short and stout. ;D Due to build space restrictions, I have shortened mine to 24'6".
I have also extended the chine flats to 5" and put a slight reverse angle on them of about 4 degrees.
Both these minor mods seemed innocent and simple in the planning stage but they have proven to be quite a challenge when combined together in the same build.
Being that this boat is on the short end of the spectrum for a GA, I have used 1/2" A/B marine fir for the aft portion of the bottom panels and used 1/4" 1088 Meranti for the forward portion rather than 3/4" and 3/8 respectively.
I'm on a tight budget for this build so I have also moved things around a little to maximize the use of each plywood sheet. In the pictures, you will notice there are only 3 sheets of ply used for the bottom panels rather than the typical 4 peices with forward and aft cutoffs. This reduced waste and the number of scarfs needed. Downside is it required moving all the scarf joint locations and layout as given in the plans. This couple with the thinner plywood fewer scarfs and shorter length of the scarfs due to thickness change has made things very interesting. What I have saved in money, I easily have lost in time and complexity, but as a bonus I am saving a little weight.
The bottom panel molds had to be adjusted a little to work with my shortened length but everything seems to be laying and measuring up pretty nice. The wider and angled chines are challenging me a little but nothing I can't work out now that I have it set up in the molds.
So I now have the bottom panels cut, scarfed, and placed in the molds and I am ready to begin taping the seams.
I'm learning a lot in this process.
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You only moved the aft molds, not the bow region molds, right? For 24'6", should be pretty close to the spacing used for the 25' version spelled out in the manual, minus 6" cut off the stern. For the negative chines, I think you're doing great with 4 degrees negative on those. Should be able to just just the downward angle on the chine flat portion of the molds and don't worry about the additional width ...the stock width will support the chine flats just fine. And yes, 1/2" bottom for the 24'6" should be fine as well. Glad you're getting started ....everything looks great!
Brian
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Brian,
Thanks for the feedback.
Brian,
I started out with the stock 25' mold spacing. Due to space in the garage, I decided to shift everything back on the jig platform a bit so as to more or less center the boat and molds on the jig rather than starting 16" from the bow end as in the plans and have space left over at the stern end. Unless I missed something critical, it looked like this would be fine for all steps until the bottom is flipped over and the stem beam and stem attached. I will likely have to make some changes then to keep it all under roof as well. I have 8" of the stern hanging off the jig and about 16" overhanging at the bow.
That said, I kept all the distances between molds stock. Once this was done I made some adjustments to the two aft molds account for the 6" difference between my bottom and the 25' bottom. Then I took a look at where the edges of the bottom panels fell on the molds in relation to the chine flat transition point. Everything fit pretty good and lined up OK but the transition from Mold 2 to mold 3 seemed a bit pinched with the forward two molds creating a bit of a hard spot in the fairness of the curve at mold # 2.
I suspect this is a result of me using the 1/2" and 1/4" inch which bends at a little different rate being not as stiff as 3/4" and 3/8"? Anyways, to eliminate this hump at mold 2 I adjusted the forward molds slightly forward :(
My spacing ended up as follows:
From the bow tip, the aft face of Mold 4 is at 72" Mold #3 is at 134" (62" spacing) Mold #2 is at 190" (56" spacing) and Mold #1 is at 242" (52" spacing) and the bottom extends exactly 12" beyond the aft face of Mold #4. The overall length of the bottom panels is 21' 0".
I could perhaps have moved mold # 2 back slightly to ease the transition but that seemed counter intuitive with a shorter hull.
All critical measurements seem to be right as far as I can tell. The 37"X 41-5/16" measurement is dead on no real spreading force was required at the 2x2 spreader. No stitches seem to be stressed. I was surprised at how well it all fit. Nothing is committed to epoxy yet so I can still play with them if you think I should taking pictures to show results or other measurements and tweeking it a bit?
The transom panel matches up nicely with the bottom panels.
The chine angle has made lofting the chines a bit tricky but I think I have that worked out as well. Epoxy should be set on my template scarfs tomorrow and I plan to check both sides with it for symmetry before I go any further.
I am doing as-built drawings with dimensions as I go that cover my modifications. Would be happy to send them to you if you would like.
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If you eye-ball the panels from every angle that you can and all the curves appear fair and smooth, then you're good. The adjustment from 25' down to 24'6" isn't that much. With the stern out over the end of the jig, make sure you support the transom appropriately when you install it ...look carefully at the shelves to make sure they aren't bending down oddly at the stern due to the (OMG heavy) transom weight. Otherwise, all sounds fine. I didn't take the time to go figure out the measurements, but everything looks good from what I can see in the pix. The boat will be great ... ;D
Brian
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Thanks for the great feedback. I will continue to press forward and keep posting pictures of the progress. Hopefully some more work tonight on the chines.
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Looking good, Bob! Keep at it!
Dave in Homer
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Thanks Dave. I have been going back through some of the older threads and doing some researching on chines and ran across your build with the splash rail/mini-reverse chine that you did. Your boat looks incredible, you did a great job and have inspired me. Also good to know that I am on fairly solid ground in pushing forward with my slight reverse chine effort based on your performance reports.
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Thanks Dave. I have been going back through some of the older threads and doing some researching on chines and ran across your build with the splash rail/mini-reverse chine that you did. Your boat looks incredible, you did a great job and have inspired me. Also good to know that I am on fairly solid ground in pushing forward with my slight reverse chine effort based on your performance reports.
...If I were to re-do the design a tad right now, I'd probably increase the waterline beam by 2", add around 4 degrees negative angle to the chine flats, and perhaps make the half-angle of entry a degree and a half finer (noting that these are very small tune-ups - I tend towards being a perfectionist). You're doing the right thing... :)
Brian
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Bob,
You are doing a bang up job! Take your time at this stage and make sure everything lines up and is fair. What happens now will determine how easy the rest of the build goes, especially when you set it down on the stringers and stem. Line it up, make sure everything is just so. Once you have things just right, the rest is a snap!
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Thanks Dave. I have been going back through some of the older threads and doing some researching on chines and ran across your build with the splash rail/mini-reverse chine that you did. Your boat looks incredible, you did a great job and have inspired me. Also good to know that I am on fairly solid ground in pushing forward with my slight reverse chine effort based on your performance reports.
...If I were to re-do the design a tad right now, I'd probably increase the waterline beam by 2", add around 4 degrees negative angle to the chine flats, and perhaps make the half-angle of entry a degree and a half finer (noting that these are very small tune-ups - I tend towards being a perfectionist).
Brian, and how would you accomplish this? 2" to the chine flats, wider bottom panels, or a combination of both?
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I would re-loft the bottom panels to make them wider.
The reason that I would go 2" wider is because the original design is conservative in terms of where the DWL is. The boat sits in the water a little deeper than necessary - this hedges your bets against high speed instabilities such as porpoising. There are enough GAs on the water, working in a wide enough variety of conditions and loadings to show that the design can be a little less conservative. If the DWL were a little lower (the boat floating a tad higher), then it would give the boat additional capacity and additional gas mileage.
If I re-loft the bottom panels to make the bottom panel assembly 2" wider, then this displaces more water (making the boat float higher) than if you just made the chine flats an inch wider on each side (which hardly displaces much additional water and has next to no impact on the waterline). Sketch it up ...draw a V-bottom, then just below it, draw an identical V-bottom but extend the sides further up to match the original V-bottom's height (sorry - in a hurry or I'd draw it up). The space between the 2 is the additional displacement. If you just widen the chine flats, you only get a very little bit of extra displacement on either side of the boat...
Brian
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Things have more or less stalled out this week without much physical progress although I did manage to get into quite a debate over the chine build method over on the THT site where I have a build post.
For some reason the Fishyfish website is now on a blacklist with our company filter. I can only access it through my mobile. Must be a snafu with the changes going on over there. Perhaps our filter is confusing Phishing with Fishing. LOL ;D
Anyways, I planned to get started on lofting/cutting the shelves this week but the slave cylinder on the truck tranny is shot and it won't move. I can't haul long materials or plywood in the car or on the wife's vehicle so I'm going to have to get the truck into the garage and tear the tranny out. Delays, delays. Always something.
Contemplating milling them on site from logs with my bandsaw mill using clear Virginia Pine or possibly strip laminating them over a jig similar to the gunnels on a canoe using 1/2"X 1-1/2" Eastern red cedar which I also have a supply of and can mill . The ERC is super light and air dried it can be a little brittle on its own but very strong when laminated. Seem like that would work well and I wouldn't have to buy or haul anything.
Brian, Thanks for your great support and putting up with all my modification questions. Sorry if I am being a pain. Taking time to get see Oyster this weekend and get some pointers on epoxy/tape. Held off on the seam taping until I am confident I have it right. The salt air should get me refreshed and moving again... :)
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For some reason the Fishyfish website is now on a blacklist with our company filter. I can only access it through my mobile. Must be a snafu with the changes going on over there. Perhaps our filter is confusing Phishing with Fishing.
If you haven't paid the $0.99 for the Tapatalk phone app, do it. Super easy to post pictures directly to the thread from your phone!
Question (typed from my phone, so it will be brief ), on your reverse chines, are you doing the down angle all the way to the bow? I like the reverse angle idea and will probably incorporate it into my build but I was only thinking of doing it from amidships aft and was think there would be no need for relofting then.
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At the firm I did my apprenticeship, all our hulls had the chines & spray rails swept down quite a bit at the outer edge and it kept a fair bit of water away from the cockpit - weather dependent, in rough weather no amount of chine shape helps!
To help, but does cost, the stop-sides can be left to sit higher than the chine flats (hull still on jig) and then hand plane the top side ply to a nice fair line (eye-balling it as you go) then fill with thickened epoxy, or cheaper, laminate strips of off-cut ply on the chine flats slightly lower than the finished desired chine then fill and long board sand her fair.
Try to get a straight line going aft though, as Brian has said, this can affect your ride if there's curves or humps.
Real easy to fill with micro balloons and long board sand - 3 ft long say 4 inch wide using say 1/2" ply or timber - keep the edge of long board off the hull side so as to not end up with a sanded grove you'll need to fill again later. And sand.....
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If I re-loft the bottom panels to make the bottom panel assembly 2" wider, then this displaces more water (making the boat float higher) than if you just made the chine flats an inch wider on each side (which hardly displaces much additional water and has next to no impact on the waterline).
How much higher do you think it would sit? From what I remember the chine is normally about 3" underwater at rest.
Now, I also remember something about longer GA's (say, 28'6) already sits higher than a 25' GA (or 24'6 in Bob's case). When you're maxing out length, do you still think the added waterline beam and displacement would work?
How about the fact that you'd have less dory flare - any negative on sea keeping ability?
You know, between moving and that new job, etc, if you have time to reloft things, let me know and I'll be your guinea pig![emoji6]
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Starbright,
To accomplish adding the chine width I had to reloft from midship aft. It really wasn't that big of a deal. Same could be done for the bottom panels. When doing your layout on plywood it is pretty simple to nail a batten strip an inch out from the measurements given in the book and then bend it to the point midship that the bow begins to narrow and form up. See that the curve is fair and parallels the original curve you have drawn on the plywood and you should be good. No need to try and measure and get exact dimensions unless you are trying to build more than one. Just let the curve of the batten be your guide. Trace the batten, cut it out on the line and flip it over on a new sheet to cut the other side the same. stitch the bottom together and get it in position. Then for the chine, you can scribe the inside line of the chine off the edge of the bottom to give you a matching curve and then use the batten again to draw the outside line of the chine. As Brian has said several times, the objective here is to retain the bottom angle and shape. As long as you don't alter that, you should be good.
Although I understand the concept of increasing bouyancy by increasing bottom width, it also increases wetted surface. My objective in making it wider at the chine rather than the bottom panel was to not only to slightly increase bouyancy when at rest but slightly increase lift when running at speed which can potentially decreases wetted surface. Whether this will work or is just a figment of my imagination remains to be seen. ;D I suppose another method would be to create functional lifting strakes on the bottom but that gets pretty complicated.
My point here is that the 2" addition to the bottom is very easy in practice to accomplish if you want to do it as Brian proposed, it just requires one additional step to what I have done.
I don't think you will see much change in the couple of degrees the dory flare changes.
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By increasing the bottom panel width, the boat will also float higher (as described), which decreases wetted surface... so I think it's pretty much a wash, pardon the pun :). You'd keep the original waterline only if you made the boat a lot heavier. An additional benefit is that the pounds per inch immersion (PPI) of the boat goes up with increased bottom panel width as well (more than with chines alone), so the boat becomes less sensitive to adding more payload. But... we're splititng hairs here. Go put the boat in a bay somewhere and ask yourself if you can see or sense any difference between the 2 methods of increasing the waterline beam... I think not. Do what's easiest.
Brian
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One thing you have to be careful of, is the width between fender wells on your trailer. You can't make the boat wider than about 2" more without possibly having to consider taller bunks etc. 2" wider is only a fine tune... Not a big deal.
And yeah... I'm gonna be short on time for a bit here ...
Brian
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If these boats get much wider, it will be like hauling a donut down the road in front of the cops.... LOL. They already look massive enough on a trailer to make them drool about pulling us over.
Take care of your move Brian, we understand family comes first and you have to play scarce for a while. The weather has me in hold pattern as I have spent the last 4 days digging out our vehicles and plowing our road. Doesn;t leave much time or energy for boatbuilding. Now they are saying more is on the way. >:( Trying to convince the wife that we might as well move to AK if we have to put up with this snow every year.... ;D
In the meanwhile I am stockpiling my supplies and studying my plans.
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Re move ...yeah, I haven't had a day off in a month. You can't believe how much work is generated by moving out of Alaska. I start the new job a week from today and still have much "settling in" stuff to do at the house that we're renting... I'll need to go back to work just to get a break!!
Brian
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I figured I would post an update although progress has been very slow. Apart from doing a lot of playing around with the shearline and visualizing different cabins on them using some temporary framing, I haven't checked off much on the progress list. As it stands right now, I have the keel and chine seams taped and the bowstem shaped and fitted ready to be glued in. I have the shelves cut. As soon as I get my LVL's and get them cut and on the jig, I will be flipping it and finishing off the bottom.
I wanted to mock the sides up before flipping as it is hard to picture what it looks like rightside up when it is upside down :D.
I hope you can forgive me Brian for altering the shearline. I know this is somewhat blasphemy to mess with a designers lines. The GA is a fine looking boat as you have designed it, it is just a little less usual here on the East Coast so I am considering this as an alternate styling on my build and wanted to see what it looks like before committing anything to wood and epoxy. I can't get a full straight on side profile picture do to space issues but perhaps this gives a general idea.
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Wow... I've never seen someone go to that effort to mock up the sheer line! But it looks great, and no, I don't have any issues with you enjoying some latitude in making the sheer line what you'd like. That's what is called a "powderhorn sheer" and they're very popular...
Brian
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Bob, it looks great.
How are you going document/memorialize that sheer so you can flip it over? Just frame/brace and flip it as one piece?
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thanks guys. OK, so the framing is only temporary to hold the shape in the shear for visualization. Each location is marked using index markes on the chine and shelf and numbered as well as measurement taken and logged. (I take these measurements on the shelf at diagonals from a fixed point at the tip of the bow so both sides are symmetrical) It will be removed before the fairbody is flipped upside down. After the fairbody is flipped , then the framing will get re-installed (just a single screw at the chine and the shelf on each point) which holds the shelf in place until the sides are hung, scribed cut and epoxied in place. Then I will remove the screws and framing pieces. Then I can glass everything before flipping it back right side up and then put in the correct stiffeners. Of course this is if everything goes according to plan... :)
Glad to know this is called a powderhorn shear.
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Looking good, Bob. Thanks for posting...
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Love the sheer shape Bob! :)
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OK guys here is a little update and sneak peek at what I have been brewing.
I went ahead and cut out some side panels and put them on the mockup to see what it looked like. I liked it pretty well but it screamed for just a litlle bit of flare and curve in the bow portion to go with the change in the shear.
To achieve this, I cut the panels just a little large. I snapped a chalk line from the bow to where the rise in the shear begins. Then I built out the edge of the shelves starting where the rise in the shear begins by laminating some strips of wood on in about 1/2" increments until it extended about 5" further than stock at the apex of the curve. Then I made a series of vertical cuts in the top of the panels to allow them to fan out as they are bent around the boat and to form the flare along the top edge. I have a few adjustments to make at the bowstem and a little trimming to do after I scarf the panels together. Here is the result for the side I did the template on...
This is not permanent, just trying on for size so I can stand back and look at it right side up, and see if I like it before I flip it upside down and do everything inverted. My mind doesn't work well upside down. My other thought on this is by using a template, I have reasonable insurance that both sides will be symmetrical. I know this is a lot of bother for mostly just aesthetic purposes but I'm still a couple weeks out on having the funds to buy all the glass I need so this is filling time and keeping me busy.
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The Carolina GA!
Are you going to adjust the bowstem at the top to account for the flare?
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Now that is cool! Lots of ingenuity there...
Brian
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Starbright,
Yes, the bowstem gets adjusted. It is leaning forward a little bit too much and is about 3/4" too short. I need to angle it up a little steeper and then I will be putting a peice o 3/4" ply on top of the bowstem to fill the gap created there. The ply will overlap the bowstem on both sides to provide additional surface for tying in the shelves and to reinforce the prow of the bow. Putting the flare in the side places a lot of pressure on the shelves so they try to do squirrely stuff like twisting. Increasing the glued surface area at the front will make everything go together easier and ensure a proper alignment. and strength.
Brian, I don't know if I would call it ingenuity or stupidity. Some think I am making headaches for myself and destroying a perfectly good design while others think it is really cool looking. I don't know if its right or wrong but it looks good to my eyes and I have never seen anything quite like this done on a S&G design or anything in the Tolman genre. Anything I have seen S&G is always flat simple curves. I have only seen compound curves using cold molded methods or plank on frame. What I have done so far is very simple and seems to work very well. I am planning to reinforce the backside of the cuts overlapping some strips of 1/4" ply, sort of like using the Ashcroft method. This will hold the flare in the piece without the need for internal framing. Then I can fill the small cuts on the outside with thickened epoxy making sure it is all fair before putting the glass skin over it.
It's really tough to show what it truly looks like in photos as I can't get back far enough and my focal length is too short to show the curves without distorting it all.
At this point the only challenges I see are the number of screw holes I have created will require a lot of filling and it will be slightly more difficult to fair than if it were flat. ;D
If it doesn't work out, I can always cut it off with the Recip saw and go back to stock profile as everything to this point has been built up from stock and could be dropped back down.
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Extra work, sure ...but that's one of the nice things about building a boat for yourself. You GET TO do what YOU want...
I wonder how hard it'll be to fair a concave curve? A long board won't do it unless very narrow, perhaps followed by finishing it up with a careful eye and sanding by hand? If so, you may wish to use an old finishing trick ...paint the boat with primer that hides the underlying colors and lines and it'll be easier to see the humps and hollows ...sand and fill as appropriate, then paint with the epoxy compatible primer and check again etc.
As for strength, the plywood will be just as strong as always if you fill the saw cuts with epoxy and glass over all of it (which you do anyway).
Keep us posted ...this is fun stuff.
Brian
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Picked up the LVL's for the stringers and transom over last weekend. Ran them through the thickness planer last night to take off the wax. I also used the template to cut out the starboard side. Hope to get the stringers roughed out tonite depending on what the weather does and what time I get home.
The mock up is all taken down and the bottom is ready to test fit the stringers and flip over and put back on the jig cart.
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You want the bottom to conform to the stringers, not the other way around. You'll want to cut the stringers accurately, mount them up, and lower the bottom panel assembly onto them and let it settle out.... mark it up, glue and screw.
Brian
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Yes, I am planning to cut stringers according to stock plans and make the hull conform to fit them. The test fit will be to see where I need to be on length as I have to make it all fit in the garage with only about 2" of room to spare so I can't leave them full length and cut off after transom fitment as in the plans. :( Not planning to change anything other than the length on them. Also need to check that I am not bumping the floor now with my extended bowstem. Might need to add a couple inches height to the jig to accommodate it.
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Sounds perfect ...except you do know that making a boat shorter is against the law? ::) Ask Ed...
Brian
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;D
Got the first stringer cut out last night. Was surprised at how easy it was to do.
My process was:
1. Mark out the lines/points of the stringer, according to the lofting plans.
2. drive some finish nails on the points
3. place a batten around the points/nails and mark the curve.
4. set the Circular saw base at 13 degree bevel and cut the length of the stringer.
Step 4 worked very well and I was able to cut the curve without a problem, as such I decided to cut the remaining angle changes the same way.
5. Cut a series of angle blocks on the miter saw to use for set guages on the base of the circular saw
6. Cut the increasing bevel angle on the bottom of the stringer by gradually adjusting angle of the base as I moved toward the bow.
When I was finished, the cut was very accurate and there was very little planing to do to get a fair cirve on the bottom of the stringer
I did notice when I layed out the lofting lines and employed the batten, that the mark at the 41" line which is supposed to be 6-1/16" appeared to be a little flat with the fair curve of the batten falling at 6-1/4" . Not sure 1/16" makes any difference in the scope of things or if my mark was off a tad or if the flat spot is intentional. Anyway, all the other marks were dead on with the batten.
The angle blocks worked real nice. Should make short work of the second stringer tonite now that I have the system worked out and one under my belt.
As a side note. My 9-1/2" LVL's were actually 9-1/4" when I measured. Found this a little odd. I plan to epoxy a 2X on the top of each stringer with some angle to provide a little aft slope in the deck towards the scuppers and get the deck up just a little higher since the gunnels are slightly higher .
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Step 5 is a great, the best in fact, way of setting saw angles ...works for jig saws and table saws too.
I'll look into that stringer offset ...I need to post a call for corrections and missing or misleading info in the plans ...time to publish an errata and maybe re-issue new docs. Our address and contact info has changed too... And I think I still haven't put it into the manual when you should install the transom knees....
Brian
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Got the second stringer cut tonite and they look great. The second was a little more difficult to cut as I had to cut in the opposite direction. The tapers were going in the wrong direction 37 degrees to 13 degrees rather than the other way around. The tangent method layed out in the manual would work better for this side. Since I already had one cut though, I layed the cut stringer (port) on top of the second (starboard). Traced the outline of the wider side and then flipped them both and traced the narrow side to produce the mirror image. Then I cut the whole stringer once again at 13 degrees following the line on the wider side, bow to stern. Once that was done, I simply turned it up on edge and planed the narrower side to the line to produce the exact angle I had on the first stringer cut using a 3-1/4" power planer set fairly shallow. Then I lined them up side by side to check for symmetry. It was pretty much a perfect match. Seems weird to use two different methods to cut the same piece. With any luck I will get the stringers mounted on the jig and and the fairbody flipped this weekend. A completed fairbody with stringers glued in is my next milestone. ;D
The directions have been great so far, sometimes I tend to overthink things.
If you do a re-issue, I might suggest separate drawings for each length. I sometimes find myself wondering which length the drawings are done for as it isn't always clearly called out. some are universal and some are based on a 25 adding for each or a 26 adding for each upsize.
It can also change how much material is actually needed for the build which has a significant effect on cost. For instance, I believe the fairbody for at least a 25' can be made using 3 sheets of plywood rather than 4. I might be wrong, but I know I had some cut off on mine and I only used 3 sheets, shifting the layout a little. My fairbody bow to transom was almost exactly 21' which makes me think perhaps even a 26' model could be cut using just 3 sheets per side on the fairbody. My sides will be 3 and 1/2 sheets so 7 peices of 3/8 will cover both sides saving one sheet of plywood on the sides as well. This is nit picking but for penny pinchers, it all adds up.
So about those transom knees... ;D
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Hey ...thanks for the excellent feedback and for taking the time to post these notes! I've started a new Errata file and will be going over the docs with your suggestions.
Transom Knees: The original manual (Part 1 of 2) failed to mention when to install the transom knees. The drawings show them, but nowhere did the manuals how and when to put them in. Soooo... if this info is still missing, the time to put them in is right after your permanent glue/screw of the transom to the shelves, e.g. when you're working your way up to permanently installing the stringers and bottom panel assembly. The key thing is that they go on the bottom of the sheer shelves and are easiest to put in prior to installing side panels. I think that if you look at the knees, that you can see which part is supposed to overlap the shelves, and which edge goes up against the transom.
Brian
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was well on my way to having the boat flipped and the stringers installed this weekend but had a slight setback. FIL asked me to go fishing yesterday afternoon. I obliged as it has been awhile since I got out on a boat. 20 min later, I found myself with a treble hook buried past the barb into the tendon of my left ring finger, just behind the knuckle. No pulling that one out without a healthy dose of meds. Got discharged from the ER about 7:00 last night with a pretty good Percoset buzz a hand shot full of lidocaine and a tetanus shot in the other arm. Life has its way of keeping progress in check.... boat is in the garage standing on edge, waiting to get layed over on the jig and stringers.
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Sorry for your luck Bob, take care of it or it will be much longer till you get back to building!
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Ouch! Was it self inflicted or help from a friend? I had one hook buried and a trip to ER to get it removed after I tried pushing it thru...
Hang in there!
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Thanks for all the well wishes. Hand is pretty well healed up and I finished the last of the antibiotic meds yesterday.
I got the LVL's for the transom all laminated to the transom board. Looks pretty good.
Fairbody got flipped today. A couple straps and a come-along did the heavy lifting and wife and son lent a couple extra hands got the job done.
It is now sitting on the stringers. I need to do a little centering and alignment work to get it all perfectly squared up but for the most part it all fits perfectly, better than I ever expected. Will post a couple pictures soon. Was jammed for time getting it all in the garage today and getting the other boat in before the rain hit. Getting some minor rain from the outer bands of Bonnie.
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worked on aligning stringers last night. Here is what it looked like before alignment, just dropping the bottom on it and eyeballing it. Not to bad.
Will take an after shot tonight and post it.
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You did a nice job cutting out those stringers ...they fit the bottom panels perfectly :)
bd
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Thanks. Here is what they looked like after alignment and some temporary screws. Last picture is one of the bottom after all the temp screws are in. That is a 6' level laying on the right I used as a straightedge. Everything looks nice and flat so far with no humps or bumps to fair out of the bottom. Woohoo! :)
I still need to get the gussets on the supports as well before I start climbing around on top of it.
Got a little sawmilling job to do for a customer tonite/tomorrow so not sure when I can get back on it. It's eating me up as I want to see them epoxied in place.
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portside stringer
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Bottom
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When have others installed secondary stringers?
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Looks beautiful... couldn't ask for a better fit. It was of course all designed with 3D CAD on a computer ...but that doesn't mean squat or diddly unless you do a great job cutting out and forming the parts - and you obviously did :D
Secondary stringers, outboard of the main stringers, go in after the boat is turned upright ...after you add any spacers on top of the main stringers (if you are going to do that, e.g. for a downward slope of the cockpit deck towards the scuppers or for more depth under the deck for sterndrives or deeper fuel tanks.)
Brian
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Returned home today with my load of salvaged lumber off the old Trumpy. Pulled a good bit of deck planking and trim work. Still trying to put a finger on exactly what all I have but it is some pretty stuff. Will post some pics soon. I think it might become useful for a little veneer and trimwork on the interior but want to keep it light and not weigh it down.
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Stringers are now epoxied in, ready to be glassed. Transom is dry fit to the fairbody and ready to be epoxied tonite. I may delay in order to install the transom drain plug tubing and get it epoxied in well, still debating.
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Transom epxied in place. Check that one off...
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Looking good BobC, you have the precision of a surgeon!
I made a drain tube like Brian suggested using a broom handle and wax paper for the mold and it was easy, I made it long enough to make 3 drain tubes.
If I did it again I would wait until the flip and do like Brian suggested. I will have a little more work once the flip to sink the drain tube lower into the floor to get proper drainage then epoxy the tube in.
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If you Change out the pilot bit on your hole saw with a long one, you can cut the hole much lower allowing the inserted pipe to flush with the inside bottom of the bilge. The standard guide bit wants to run high.
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If you Change out the pilot bit on your hole saw with a long one, you can cut the hole much lower allowing the inserted pipe to flush with the inside bottom of the bilge. The standard guide bit wants to run high.
Exactly... :D
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I've made some progress. The starboard side is hung and ready for glass and the bow is all shaped out. Here is a peek at what she looks like now. You can see the modifications that I have made added a little more shape which will make for a little more work fairing but I like how it looks. I will post up a pituce from the back soon. I added a little bit of roundness aft for 3 reasons. 1. My logic says it will make the panels slightly more stiffer than just being flat, 2. It will give me a little more space for the rod holders to come through the bottom of the shelf before hitting the sides of the boat and 3. I like the look a little better than just flat panel dory flare. To achieve this, I just added a peice of 2x4 to the end of the Transom board that was the shape I wanted. The side stiffners will have a similar curve although the sides are now very stiff and barely need them.
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Can't wait to see how she turns out ...right side up and all painted. It's going to be cool! :D
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Sounds perfect ...except you do know that making a boat shorter is against the law? ::) Ask Ed...
Brian
Keep me out of it! lol
I love whats happening here, and, I'll be putting a bit of flare into the front too and also similar sheer share - well, I'll need to, as the boats 3.2m wide and needs a little lifting in the topside panels..... but keen to leave the cockpit topsides as is, I read somewhere that 26 inches is a good height to fish from, something aboat scooping up the catch in a net.... can't remember...
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I agree ...I've fished boats offshore with as little as 24" of interior freeboard, and as much as 28". I think that the 26" to 27" range is great and works fine ...feeling safe enough yet not in the way.
Brian
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Hey guys, good to be back and see everything up and running on the new site. Will post some new pictures of the progress over the next few days.
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Hey guys, good to be back and see everything up and running on the new site. Will post some new pictures of the progress over the next few days.
That would be great! I was wondering how you were getting along .... :)
Brian
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I flipped the boat Sat. eve. Tonight I will get her on cradles with some wheels and then the interior work can begin. I flipped the boat using lift points at bow and transom. I was very impressed with how balanced it is. The level is right on the bubble for port/starboard balance. going to check fore and aft tonight when I put it on cradles.
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continued..
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more..
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more
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more
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Wow! Amazing single-handed flip! I am eeeeeeempressed!!!! Congratulations! Really love the chines and bow flare that you engineered into it! It's going to be an awesome boat!
Brian
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Looking good!
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Bob,
Your boat looks amazing, I am glad the flip went well. You should be launching next summer the way you are progressing.
:)
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Great job on the flip. That is a nice looking hull. Looking forward to seeing progress pictures. Helps to keep me motivated.
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How's this boat coming along?
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Yes, I'm curious too. Just read the whole thread the other day and looking forward to seeing the results of your mods.
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No news since October...that is ominous!