Glacier Boats of Alaska - Builder's Forums
Great Alaskan and Boat Building => Projects - Glacier Boats of Alaska boat projects => Topic started by: Grady300 on May 21, 2020, 04:41:18 PM
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After a bad mishap last fall with my 28' Albemarle getting totaled out I decided it was time to step up to real off shore boat that does not break the bank every time I pull up to the fuel dock. Started this project 2 weeks ago. I plan to splash it this time next year for the 2021 fishing season. At this a point I an thinking twin 115 HP 4-stroke Yamaha's, might go for twin 150's but I really would love to keep the 115's. Lots of time to decide at this point. I'm planing on a bow thruster if I get brave enough to cut a huge oblong shaped hole in my hull. I will make a mock-up of the hull area and practice on something first. I am pretty sure this will be the first GA with a bow thruster.
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Hi there,
Welcome back. Is this your second GA Build? It’s great to see another Oregonian making sawdust.
Todd
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Cool looking mockup! Are you planning on towing that to the coast from Bend?
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Hi there,
Welcome back. Is this your second GA Build? It’s great to see another Oregonian making sawdust.
Todd
Long story! Started a standard 28' GA Several years ago. It got all tangled up in a divorce by my X holding it for ransom. By the time I got it back and was ready to go I purchased the 286 Albemarle. Since I sell kits for both the GA & Tolman's I sold it partially built. I had the 286 Albemarle for 2 years before both my main strap and safety strap broke pulling the boat our for the season. It landed on the ramp real hard and did too much damage to repair. The great guy who bought it is finishing it up. It was sold ready for the sides to go on so he gets to build it the way he wants it. The huge lesson I learned is to never ever own a trailer with rollers again!!!!!!
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Cool looking mockup! Are you planning on towing that to the coast from Bend?
Thanks I am very excited to see the build develop. I have a place on the Siletz River in Lincoln City on the coast. It will be moored at South Beach Marina in Newport April through October. I will tow it back and forth just twice a year. At 9'6" I'm pretty sure I can get a yearly permit without to many restrictions being under 10 feet. I had a Grady White Marlin 300 for several years that was 10'9" it required flashing lights with several restriction to tow. The Grady was a very thirsty gas guzzling machine. Any time you have two 155 gallon gas tanks you can bet the fuel dock will not be a welcome site.
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I love what your doing! The step up is the only change I will make on my own, my wife has some mobility issues that seem to be getting worse, but I’ll be watching for updates!!
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Here is a snapshot of where the bow thruster will be going, cad work and location compliments of Brian Dixon....Thanks Brian you are always a ton of help!!!!!
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Glass for bottom all rolled up ready to go on the inside of the bottom. Bottom all glassed with 10oz cloth including one extra 9" on each scarf joint. Glass applied side to side. Glass goes on so easy if you wet out the ply first and roll the glass on right off the stick applying light pressure, greatly reduces wrinkles in the glass. Finished up putting the 2 bottom pieces of 1 3/4" LVL on the transom. One more coat of epoxy tonight then one more tomorrow morning. I will take the bottom off the building jig the next day and set it aside. This weekend I hope to get the framing done on the jig to carry the stringers and the bottom. If all goes well I hope to have the bottom glued on by the end of next week as long as my real job doesn't get in the way too much.
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The bottom is completed, time to take it off the building jig and flip it over. Setting it to the side while I start the next the step. Next need to build 2 different internal support structures to support the transom, sheer shelves, stringers. Once this is done its time to scribe the stringers to the bottom then glue it on. I will be working all weekend to hopefully set the bottom on the stringers Monday ready to scribe. Hope to glue the bottom on Monday or Tuesday.
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Wow! Fantastic progress!
On the '2 structures' comment, are you referring to what I call temporary framing ... that carries the stringers? Is it easier to build 2 of these to help get their tail ends installed in the transom? They ARE long and heavy.. maybe I should enhance the instructions!
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Wow! Fantastic progress!
On the '2 structures' comment, are you referring to what I call temporary framing ... that carries the stringers? Is it easier to build 2 of these to help get their tail ends installed in the transom? They ARE long and heavy.. maybe I should enhance the instructions!
Yes I was referring to the temporary framing. Yep I'm gona beef up the temporary framing some. I will also add blocks the the outside of the temp framing to rest on top of stringers as well as screw them to the inside of the building jig. ill post some photos this weekend.
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Wow! Fantastic progress!
On the '2 structures' comment, are you referring to what I call temporary framing ... that carries the stringers? Is it easier to build 2 of these to help get their tail ends installed in the transom? They ARE long and heavy.. maybe I should enhance the instructions!
Yes I was referring to the temporary framing. Yep I'm gona beef up the temporary framing some. I will also add blocks the the outside of the temp framing to rest on top of stringers as well as screw them to the inside of the building jig. ill post some photos this weekend.
OK ... Yeah, beefing the temp framing up and using 2 while you put it together probably helps. You may have to raise/lower on of them to situate the stringers in the transom right. Looking forward to pix...
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Today's progress: I changed the interior framing structure a bit. The main vertical support is on top of building jig rather than mounted on the inside then added an extra piece to the inside. I dropped the framing down 2 3/8" to allow for my raised stringers. Checked it all out with my laser. I went with 11 7/8" rather than 9 1/2" stringers. Added the extra height just to have a few more options during the build. Besides the Kodiak has another 5 1/2" over the typical GA so I figure I had some height spare
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Good ... your stringer height change exactly balances the change in height on the 'temporary framing'. That'll keep the side panels the same ... can't get too tall with them, else they may not span chine flat-to-shelf distance. But you kept that distance as designed, so all good...
Sweet progress!
Brian
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Good ... your stringer height change exactly balances the change in height on the 'temporary framing'. That'll keep the side panels the same ... can't get too tall with them, else they may not span chine flat-to-shelf distance. But you kept that distance as designed, so all good...
Sweet progress!
Brian
Hmmm, That makes me wonder if I will get my side height above the self 4"-6" about where my aft wheelhouse starts up to the bow for my bulwark?
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Good ... your stringer height change exactly balances the change in height on the 'temporary framing'. That'll keep the side panels the same ... can't get too tall with them, else they may not span chine flat-to-shelf distance. But you kept that distance as designed, so all good...
Sweet progress!
Brian
I'll double check that for you. There should be room, but I'll double check ...
Brian
Hmmm, That makes me wonder if I will get my side height above the self 4"-6" about where my aft wheelhouse starts up to the bow for my bulwark?
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How much deeper is the kodiac model?
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How much deeper is the kodiac model?
The Kodiak is 5" deeper than the standard Great Alaskan.... The Kodiak is about 5'9" deep as measured from the tip of the bow down to the keel.
Hope that helps,
Brian
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Today's progress:
Transom glued on, Stringers set in place dry fitted, Bottom set on top to see if any scribing the stringers to the hull needs to be done (very little needs to be done they fit well) Next step is to glue the stringers in and then glue the bottom to stringers, transom and bow stem. Then time to start prepping to put fit the sides. Still need to cut side panels out and scarf 2 different section together. I will also glass the inside of the side panels prior to putting on the hull, much easier than doing it later.
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Looks great. Keep the pics coming
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When viewed from the side, do your shelves describe a smooth nice looking sheerline? Just double-checking on those new Kodiak shelf mold specs... :D
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When viewed from the side, do your shelves describe a smooth nice looking sheerline? Just double-checking on those new Kodiak shelf mold specs... :D
yep they look a bit wonkie in the photo. looking from the aft end siting down the shelves it is good and straight up to mold #2. from mold#2 they take a nice smooth curve up to the bow stem.
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When viewed from the side, do your shelves describe a smooth nice looking sheerline? Just double-checking on those new Kodiak shelf mold specs... :D
yep they look a bit wonkie in the photo. looking from the aft end siting down the shelves it is good and straight up to mold #2. from mold#2 they take a nice smooth curve up to the bow stem.
Sounds like they've got the right shape, smooth. Curve is almost nil in the back half of the boat, then the sheer sweeps upward to the bow. The Great Alaskan series of boats do not have a 'low spot' in the middle, but rise continuously from stern to stem. So all good? No tweaks for me to be aware of?
Brian
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When viewed from the side, do your shelves describe a smooth nice looking sheerline? Just double-checking on those new Kodiak shelf mold specs... :D
yep they look a bit wonkie in the photo. looking from the aft end siting down the shelves it is good and straight up to mold #2. from mold#2 they take a nice smooth curve up to the bow stem.
Sounds like they've got the right shape, smooth. Curve is almost nil in the back half of the boat, then the sheer sweeps upward to the bow. The Great Alaskan series of boats do not have a 'low spot' in the middle, but rise continuously from stern to stem. So all good? No tweaks for me to be aware of?
Brian
It's all been coming together great, love the look so far. It's also fun to have it out in the plant when I walk clients through. They look at me with amazement in there face. Can't wait to get it flipped with the cuddy and wheelhouse on it.
Been going slow the last few days. Been getting my workspace all set-up now that I have more room. Up to this point I have been in a high traffic flow path through the plant. I have appointments tomorrow then heading out of town for the weekend. I'm sure it will be right where I left it...lol
Next step is to fit the bow stem, very little if any scribing on the stringers then glue it on.
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Cool :D. Having something exciting in the shop puts clients in a good mood ... hopefully, result in more business for you :D
I have not heard of anybody having to do any trimming on the stringers .... they just fit and fit well. The only trimming is cutting them off flush with the transom. Bow stems always have to be trimmed/planed to fit the hull though ... :)
bd
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Cool :D. Having something exciting in the shop puts clients in a good mood ... hopefully, result in more business for you :D
I have not heard of anybody having to do any trimming on the stringers .... they just fit and fit well. The only trimming is cutting them off flush with the transom. Bow stems always have to be trimmed/planed to fit the hull though ... :)
bd
Yea the stringers do fit well, just me being a little OCD...lol
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Someone I won't name, once pinged me about an error in the loftings ... turns out that there was a 1/16" gap between his bottom panels :D :D :D
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Someone I won't name, once pinged me about an error in the loftings ... turns out that there was a 1/16" gap between his bottom panels :D :D :D
It couldn't have been me I would only let you know if it was 3/32" ;) ;) ;)
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Build has slowed over the last 2 or 3 weeks taking time for summer fun and of course work always gets in the way. Thinking ahead on colors for the hull. Top side sheer shelves up will be white, looking for coments on hull colors. Love to hear any and all pro & con comments. Also cast your vote on your favorite color
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All colors look good on a Great Alaskan! I'm partial to classic colors, personally, like the burgundy above, or marlin blue, or clover/sage green. But that turquoise one down in the Bahamas really looks fantastic, and so do the cream colored ones. Take a look at Sunbrella bimini cloth colors while you're thinking ... you may find that an awning or cover color that strikes your fancy might go with one color better than another ... either an accent (contrast) color, or in the same color family. Paint jobs look best when selected as a 3-color system, e.g. darker on the hull, light on the decks and superstructure, navy grey on the roofs etc. That's my opinion ... worth what you paid! :D
bd
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Update:
Made my cat walk 24" wider after falling off, all is well I have a hard head. I made a 1" ID fiberglass tube to go in my limber holes, glued stringers in, attached bottom to stringers, Cut in bow thruster hole in the first bottom layer thinking if I screwed up I could cover it with the second layer. It fit just right not afraid to say I was a bit nervous about it, then glued on the starboard side bottom second layer, cut off the ends of the bottom and stringers.
With the Kodiak having taller sides than the typical GA I won't be attaching the sides until the bottom is completely finished. With the catwalk it is so much easier to get to the bottom for glassing and painting. When I install the sides the bottom will be finished up to 3-4" from where the sides meet the chine. I'll be using Sea Hawk 2145GL Tropikote Black Gl for my anti-foul bottom paint. Very spendey at $250 per gallon but from what I could see it is the best out there.
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Those nailer strips look like a good idea for spreading out the pressure from the screws. Did you wrap them in plastic so the squeeze out does stick them to the hull?
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Those nailer strips look like a good idea for spreading out the pressure from the screws. Did you wrap them in plastic so the squeeze out does stick them to the hull?
They do work well for that reason. I just use blue painters tape on the bottom of the nailers, much easier & faster than wrapping in plastic.
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Those nailer strips look like a good idea for spreading out the pressure from the screws. Did you wrap them in plastic so the squeeze out does stick them to the hull?
They do work well for that reason. I just use blue painters tape on the bottom of the nailers, much easier & faster than wrapping in plastic.
I like those strips ... they probably help smooth the curves as well. So the non-adhesive side of blue painter's tape does not stick to epoxy? Or maybe some remnants remain but sand right off? As long as the wood strips come off, then who cares? :D
Thx,
Brian
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Those nailer strips look like a good idea for spreading out the pressure from the screws. Did you wrap them in plastic so the squeeze out does stick them to the hull?
They do work well for that reason. I just use blue painters tape on the bottom of the nailers, much easier & faster than wrapping in plastic.
I like those strips ... they probably help smooth the curves as well. So the non-adhesive side of blue painter's tape does not stick to epoxy? Or maybe some remnants remain but sand right off? As long as the wood strips come off, then who cares? :D
Thx,
Brian
Yep as long as you use the Blue painters tape epoxy wont stick, just don't by the cheap stuff get it at a professional paint store
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I used some sort of tape, now I can’t remember on the inside of the hull at the chines. When I epoxied the chines on I had a lot of stuck tape to sand off. For the record it was not blue
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Bow Thruster Tunnel Installed
First picture: Tunnel dry fit
Second photo: Tunnel tack glued from inside hull
Third photo: Faired the hull on the leading edge up about 3/16" high than the rear of the tunnel. This is a requirement so the water deflects up enough under forward power so the water does not hit the rear face of the tunnel. I also used "Peel Ply" on top of the epoxy peanut butter to see how smooth it would come out. I was simply amazed how smooth and uniform it came out. I thought I would need at least 2 or 3 applications to get it this smooth. Peel Ply is worth every penny, saves so much time sanding.
Fourth Photo: Tunnel all installed, sanded and faired, it all came out as good as I hoped for. Just have a few more grey hairs worrying about cutting a huge hole in my hull.
Also got most of the bottom ready for glassing, chine and keel seams all done.
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Finally some progress, work and summer fun getting in the way. Bottom is all glassed and finial sanded/faired from chine/bottom joint on both sides ready for bottom paint. Took the cat walk down and made cardboard templates getting ready to put the sides on. Both port and starboard back half of sides glued and scarfed together about 19 1/2 foot long panels. I will glass the inside of the panels tomorrow (Sunday) I hope to install the sides week after next. Still need to make the front half side panels. I used peel Ply on top of my finial epoxy coat for the entire bottom. After removal of the peel ply it only took me 4 hours to finial sand the entire bottom of this beast. Most of that time was sanding where the peel ply didn't cover and along the outside edge of the cloth.
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Glad to see the progress! I predict an October flip.... :D
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Glad to see the progress! I predict an October flip.... :D
Brian- if you noticed the 2x4 missing 30" forward of the stern it's not missing just not in yet. I will cut that one in after the flip when I figure out my Euro Transom framing.
I would say a late October flip is a good guess! Lot of work to be done first. When I flip it I hope to have 90% of the out side ready for prime & paint. The bottom paint will be on and done as well as primer for finish coat up to the bottom of the side spray rails on the hull. I might be a little optimistic on the timing, Prime time Salmon season on the Siletz River is hear we will see. Well time to go lay some 6oz. glass on the inside of the side panels prepping for install next week
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Wish I could join you on the Siletz ... I miss the good ol' days of fishing around there..
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Wish I could join you on the Siletz ... I miss the good ol' days of fishing around there..
ya know all ya got to do is make the drive over! you're always welcome!The RV has 3 queen size beds, lots of room
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Wish I could join you on the Siletz ... I miss the good ol' days of fishing around there..
ya know all ya got to do is make the drive over! you're always welcome!The RV has 3 queen size beds, lots of room
Up until this year, we've been highly tasked with property and house ... what you get when you buy a 16 year old house that had all contractor-grade flooring and items in it, and previous home owners that loved new projects but never did a lick of maintenance in their lives. Good a good deal on the place, and it's value has gone up 50% since buying it, so can't complain and money spent on it is not lost. BUT ... we're finally getting mostly ahead on the place now. I think that starting next year, that I can be a lot more flexible and will have a lot more vacation saved up ... which means ... time for friends and fishing (finally!) Already lining up B10 w/the Klistofs too ....
I will take you up on the Siletz offer next year, and offshore if/when you go next summer too ....
Thanks a mil!
Brian
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Wish I could join you on the Siletz ... I miss the good ol' days of fishing around there..
ya know all ya got to do is make the drive over! you're always welcome!The RV has 3 queen size beds, lots of room
Up until this year, we've been highly tasked with property and house ... what you get when you buy a 16 year old house that had all contractor-grade flooring and items in it, and previous home owners that loved new projects but never did a lick of maintenance in their lives. Good a good deal on the place, and it's value has gone up 50% since buying it, so can't complain and money spent on it is not lost. BUT ... we're finally getting mostly ahead on the place now. I think that starting next year, that I can be a lot more flexible and will have a lot more vacation saved up ... which means ... time for friends and fishing (finally!) Already lining up B10 w/the Klistofs too ....
I will take you up on the Siletz offer next year, and offshore if/when you go next summer too ....
Thanks a mil!
Brian
Anytime!! if all goes well we can fish for some Ling Cod in April in the Kodiak is I geter done on time
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Anytime!! if all goes well we can fish for some Ling Cod in April in the Kodiak is I geter done on time
Dude! LING COD is our fave fish! :D :D :D
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Glassed the bottom of both the sheer shelves and got the starboard side all glued on as well as the fillet under the shelf to side fillet. It took 4 1/4 full sheets of ply for the sides. The port sides will be glued on tomorrow then I'll start taping all the outside seams, chine to sides, sides to transom. Hard to see but approximately 8 1/2 feet forward of the stern my sides extend past the sheer shelves 4" creating a Bulwark
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Interesting approach to the bulwark. I have just started thinking about how I am going to do mine, playing around with some scraps of 1/2" to see if I can bend them that sharp. Either way, looking good! That thing is going to be a beast!
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Interesting approach to the bulwark. I have just started thinking about how I am going to do mine, playing around with some scraps of 1/2" to see if I can bend them that sharp. Either way, looking good! That thing is going to be a beast!
Because the Kodiak sides are taller than the standard GA sides the only way to get the extra 4" height for the bulwark was to scarf the front 2 side panels up at an angle as shown in the attached. Otherwise I would have to scarf 2- 4x8 sheets together then scarf or rabbit on another 4"+ the full 16 foot length to make a 52" wide panels.
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Oh right, I forgot how close those sides where to the shelves when I cut them (it's been a minute)... Clever solution, definitely better than scarfing 16' to get another 4"...
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Oh right, I forgot how close those sides where to the shelves when I cut them (it's been a minute)... Clever solution, definitely better than scarfing 16' to get another 4"...
I stapled on 4x8 cardboard cover sheets on the entire side. Then I marked the inside cine, bow and shelf locations to figure it all out and make templates.
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Wow ... nice job on the bulwark concept! Looks awesome too! Can't wait to go fishin' in that beast! :D
Brian
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Got the port front side on today as well as the 33 feet of peanut butter chine to side fill all done. Also started working on fairing the bottom to sides at the bow. Shouldn't take to much it actually came out pretty good!! Coming in to Saturday to sand all the PB and a little more work on the bow area. gona try to get the 30oz of cloth on the chine/side joints also. Still shooting for an October flip.
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Tadaaa... it is now a BOAT! Fantastic progress!
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Brian
Any reason I can't go with the Prince Rupert type spray rail at 125" +- on my Kodiak? To maintain 12" past the aft W/House bulkhead my rails would be 144" +-. I like that look better and its easier & less work:) I will also be installing the Aux spray rail at the chine.
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Brian
Any reason I can't go with the Prince Rupert type spray rail at 125" +- on my Kodiak? To maintain 12" past the aft W/House bulkhead my rails would be 144" +-. I like that look better and its easier & less work:) I will also be installing the Aux spray rail at the chine.
Sounds like a fine idea ... I like the PR style of spray rail too. If you look at Dave Boccia's boat pic at the top of the FaceBook page, you can see how the spray is distributed and about how long the rail ought to be.
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Brian
Any reason I can't go with the Prince Rupert type spray rail at 125" +- on my Kodiak? To maintain 12" past the aft W/House bulkhead my rails would be 144" +-. I like that look better and its easier & less work:) I will also be installing the Aux spray rail at the chine.
Sounds like a fine idea ... I like the PR style of spray rail too. If you look at Dave Boccia's boat pic at the top of the FaceBook page, you can see how the spray is distributed and about how long the rail ought to be.
Great! I wasn't sure if i need to go up to the bow to help stiffen the side panels. I suspect the interior benches in the cuddy will take care of that
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Great! I wasn't sure if i need to go up to the bow to help stiffen the side panels. I suspect the interior benches in the cuddy will take care of that
You got it. Same for any shelves, seating, etc that you run along the side panels inside the pilot house. The side panels are a secondary part of the structure - it's mostly about having one more little thing control how stiff the boat is. There are 2 ways to make a boat strong ... make it stiff and inflexible, or make it able to handle plenty of flex. Anything shorter than 80-100 ft or so are best made stiff ... all that flexible boat stuff is best left to the big ship builders out there.
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All faring is done, ready to glass the sides bottom is already glassed. Planning on installing aux spray rail and rub rail, then bottom paint. Then the big flip
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Looks great! You did a fine job on that fiberglassing ... hardly needed any fairing.
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That is going to be an amazing boat, cant wait to see more.
Bob
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It looks big !
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It looks big !
:D It's a BIG Mamma Jamma for sure!
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It looks big !
:D It's a BIG Mamma Jamma for sure!
thinking a small hot tub may fit :)
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It looks big !
:D It's a BIG Mamma Jamma for sure!
thinking a small hot tub may fit :)
Put ice in it when fishing with the guys ... hot water when on a 'private cruise' :D
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Try this
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Try this
You 2 guys are inspiring ;) May not be a half bad idea. Could probably rid something up!!!
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Got the starboard side glass on all in one piece. I always wanted to try the pour with the glass in place method on a vertical surface. Worked better and way easier than I expected. I had to order 60" wide glass to make it work but well worth it. To lay out the glass, tape in place and spread the epoxy only took 2 hours for 2 guys. Not to mention the glass went on beautifully with no wrinkles or seams to sand out later. After taping the glass in place we started wetting out the glass at the top on the chine. We did that with a brush to help hold it all in place when we stated to pour the epoxy on. Having 2 guys each with a squeegee really helps. After all the glass was good and transparent I put on one light skim coat just to make sure the ply did not starve the glass soaking it all up. Port side will get glass next week then the transom.
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Looks great ... I'll say, you're sure doing good work and have really finessed how to avoid any extra fairing work and sanding that you have to do. Your posts on using peel ply and one-shot glassing are really going to help others a lot :D
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Looking Great! Keep up the good progress, definitely setting a new bar for the rest of us to reach. Is it 31'4" to the transom as is, or are you adding a bracket/extension that'll bring it out to 31'4"?
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Looking Great! Keep up the good progress, definitely setting a new bar for the rest of us to reach. Is it 31'4" to the transom as is, or are you adding a bracket/extension that'll bring it out to 31'4"?
The OAL is 31'4" from tip of bow to longest pint on the transom after I cut part of the transom off for the Euro Transom look I an going for. If I left the transom as is it would add 4 more inches. I don't plan on using a motor bracket of any type just hang the motor right on the transom.
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Looking Great! Keep up the good progress, definitely setting a new bar for the rest of us to reach. Is it 31'4" to the transom as is, or are you adding a bracket/extension that'll bring it out to 31'4"?
The OAL is 31'4" from tip of bow to longest pint on the transom after I cut part of the transom off for the Euro Transom look I an going for. If I left the transom as is it would add 4 more inches. I don't plan on using a motor bracket of any type just hang the motor right on the transom.
Ok, I think I see where my confusion was. I saw the renditions but then that you made what appeared to be a normal transom. So once you flip the hull and add the interior aft bulk heads, you'll cut the angles into the hull for the euro look/swim platform?
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Looking Great! Keep up the good progress, definitely setting a new bar for the rest of us to reach. Is it 31'4" to the transom as is, or are you adding a bracket/extension that'll bring it out to 31'4"?
The OAL is 31'4" from tip of bow to longest pint on the transom after I cut part of the transom off for the Euro Transom look I an going for. If I left the transom as is it would add 4 more inches. I don't plan on using a motor bracket of any type just hang the motor right on the transom.
Ok, I think I see where my confusion was. I saw the renditions but then that you made what appeared to be a normal transom. So once you flip the hull and add the interior aft bulk heads, you'll cut the angles into the hull for the euro look/swim platform?
Yep Exactly what I plan on doing. My thought was I would build it with the stock transom to have options of going either way. this was more work but I wanted the option. I wanted to have it flipped first before cutting in the Euro Transom so I could draw it all out on the side to make sure I like the look of it. In a worse case scenario if I don't like it I could still go with the stock typical transom. The OAL is 31'4" with the Euro Transom if I leave it stock the hull will grow by 4" :)
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Good idea! Can't wait to see it finished.
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READY FOR THE FLIP!!!! I will be flipping Monday morning as predicted earlier by the end of October. The entire hull is faired out ready for paint, sure wish I could paint the outside while it is upside down. We all know that would be a huge mistake, best wait till later for topside paint. Bottom is complete with 2 coats of Sea Hawk premium blister protector epoxy primer and 2 finish coats of Cukote antifouling bottom paint. First time ever using bottom paint it rolled out pretty nice. Flipping Monday then heading on a weeks vacation in PV Mexico for a much needed break.
My fuel and fresh water tanks also came in fuel tanks are 1 ea. 108 gal. 1 ea. 53 gal. total 161 gallons. Also placed an order for JABSCO electric quiet flush toilet with a 28 gal. holding take system with attached pump-out motor, filter for venting and intake sea-water pump for toilet bowel. Ordered washdown pump, 3 through hole sea-cocks, 4 deck fill fittings for fuel, fresh water and pump out for holding tank.
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Wow! It's looking great (and BIG)! I don't think I've ever seen black bottom paint before ... I thought it was graphite epoxy until I read your notes ... :D
Brian
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I used black bottom paint too. Great minds think alike
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Thanks! I went with the smile look with the waterline, just followed the chine line @ 5 1/2" . Funny black bottom paint is what were on both my last off shore boats done by someone else. I did'nt know it came in different colors until I already ordered mine. I would have went with black anyway.
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I just used a level line to do the boat. I did however deviate from the plans and use a smile for the spray rails. I think Brian may have provided another set of dimensions for the smiley spray rails. I really like the way they look. I think it helps the look of the boat on the water. We will see
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Bottom looks amazing! Good luck with the flip today!
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THE FLIP IS COMPLETED!!!
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Making it look easy! Great looking hull, congrats.
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Congratulations on this MAJOR milestone! Geez ... that boat makes you look tiny!
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Congratulations on this MAJOR milestone! Geez ... that boat makes you look tiny!
Thanks!!! but in the last photo that is our shortest worker in the shop, that was by design to have him in there :) we were all laughing including him when we saw the photo
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HUGE. Must have been great having so much help. I did mine solo and would have nice to have one more set of hands. Congrats!
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HUGE. Must have been great having so much help. I did mine solo and would have nice to have one more set of hands. Congrats!
Thank you, it was a great feeling flipping it over. It's funny they all want to help during the big events. But when its time to glass or sand they all hide. Still glad to have there help.
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HUGE. Must have been great having so much help. I did mine solo and would have nice to have one more set of hands. Congrats!
Thank you, it was a great feeling flipping it over. It's funny they all want to help during the big events. But when its time to glass or sand they all hide. Still glad to have there help.
A great man once said, "They always show up, once all the work is done." Grab a beer and enjoy that much needed vacation. Here's some motivation I did while the hull was still upside down. Forgive the lack of artistic skill.
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Congratulations on this MAJOR milestone! Geez ... that boat makes you look tiny!
Thanks!!! but in the last photo that is our shortest worker in the shop, that was by design to have him in there :) we were all laughing including him when we saw the photo
My bad eyes ... I did look a little closer later and realized my mistake :D
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Thats funny, but it still looks huge compared to most.
congrats!
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Got the floors cut and fit. Took them out for glassing the bottom side. I plan on drawing everything out on the floors to help know where to run all the underfloor stuff. That's why I decided to get the transom somewhat done (working on that now) so I could run all the PVC hoses ect. I know it will be more of a pian getting in and out while finishing the Inside but I wanted it right. Inside the hull is ready for all the structural fillets. Had my waist tank come in. Some of this stuff is getting hard to find off the shelf in stock.
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Looks great. Your moving right along.. I've been slowed up with the interior. Started the cabinet work.
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Finally cut off the top of the transom preparing for the euro modification. In the first picture the 3" vertical notch in the top of the transom is for a recessed ladder. Got my 2x6 fiberglass tube in for my oversized scuppers.
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I really like the full walkthrough transom. If I ever have a bigger shop and build another boat it will have one. I dig the scuppers too. What did you use for a mold/pattern?
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I really like the full walkthrough transom. If I ever have a bigger shop and build another boat it will have one. I dig the scuppers too. What did you use for a mold/pattern?
I glued together 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF and put a full bullnose on the ends. The mold was 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" wrapped with plastic. 10 full wraps of 10 oz cloth pre-wetted with clear epoxy
drys out just about 1/8" thick which seams to be strong. Be sure to use at least 4 wraps of plastic around the mold and only tape the ends before wrapping with wet cloth. Make it 6" longer than you need. Hopefully with more layers of plastic the mold will slip out easier. I had to cut them down the middle on the top just through the 1/8" fiberglass. That relived enough pressure to get the glass off the molds pretty easily. Once the tubes were in place with fillets I just ran 3 layers of 3" 10oz glass over the saw cut, all wet on wet it made a very strong scupper tube. Installed with the 1/8" cut facing up so it was easy to cover the saw cut. Not sure if I will need to make a flapper to keep the water out or not at the stern. We will see, I can add them easily at any time
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I like it. Super easy! Are you raising/sloping cockpit deck?
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Do you plan on being able to close those scuppers 'until needed'? Is there a commercially-available scupper that you have in mind for this? Curious...
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Do you plan on being able to close those scuppers 'until needed'? Is there a commercially-available scupper that you have in mind for this? Curious...
I am hoping I won't have to close them up. If so I have a plan to follow what Neil up in AK sold me for my widebody when I built it. Really good concept can be custom made for any size.
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Do you plan on being able to close those scuppers 'until needed'? Is there a commercially-available scupper that you have in mind for this? Curious...
I am hoping I won't have to close them up. If so I have a plan to follow what Neil up in AK sold me for my widebody when I built it. Really good concept can be custom made for any size.
Neal's soft-rubber flapper concept or are you talking about what Renn called "condom scuppers" (which work really well but look funny)?
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Do you plan on being able to close those scuppers 'until needed'? Is there a commercially-available scupper that you have in mind for this? Curious...
I am hoping I won't have to close them up. If so I have a plan to follow what Neil up in AK sold me for my widebody when I built it. Really good concept can be custom made for any size.
Neal's soft-rubber flapper concept or are you talking about what Renn called "condom scuppers" (which work really well but look funny)?
Yea the soft-rubber ones :). They keep most of the water out. The bottom of the tube is 8 3/4" above the bottom of the chine. So even with a 4" water line above the chine I'm still almost 5" above the waterline.
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I'll have to use that scupper design. Very cool. I'll file it away. I like the euro transoms as well. That's similar to what I was thinking for the GA, that or what djeffrey did. I've got some time to decide. Where did you get your gas tanks done?
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I think we both used the same manufacturer
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Yea the soft-rubber ones :). They keep most of the water out. The bottom of the tube is 8 3/4" above the bottom of the chine. So even with a 4" water line above the chine I'm still almost 5" above the waterline.
That's what I figured. I do like those scuppers! I doubt you'll have much backwash coming into the boat ...
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Brian, with that said I guess there is no concerns with weakening the transom? I really like them.
Is there a plan in mind to be able to block them off? Foam plug?
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Brian, with that said I guess there is no concerns with weakening the transom? I really like them.
Is there a plan in mind to be able to block them off? Foam plug?
yes there is a plan to block them off if need be. I am going to wait and see if I even need to worry about it. Being the lowest point of the tube is at least 5" above the water line I don't expect much water will find it way in from the stern. I was more concerned with taking 100+ gallons of water over the bow, granted that would be a real ugly ocean but it does happen. With scupper tubes that large it will exit a whole lot quicker than through the typical 1 1/2" to 2" hole. Its hard to explain how the soft rubber scuppers covers work. I will try to take a picture of the ones on my widebody and post it later.
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Cut out for recessed ladder. I will be mounting is to the bottom of this recess with a removable top hatch that will be the deck of the walk-a-round area on the euro transom. the access deck will be screwed down semi permanent incase I ever need to replace the ladder. Access to the nuts will be through the access hole just below the tuna door
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Your gonna be done ahead of me too and I had 2 year head start!
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I have been working on it almost every day while at work at least a little. I put in 30 hours last week and 15 hours this past weekend weekend. i really want to splash it May 2021. I can see that is doable but I am starting to get busier at work so the build will slow a bit. This has been my keep me busy project during Covid :)
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Brian, with that said I guess there is no concerns with weakening the transom? I really like them.
Is there a plan in mind to be able to block them off? Foam plug?
It's like holes in a beam ... it depends on how close they are to higher-stress locations and what direction the force is. Notice that the scuppers are far enough away from the transom corners, and with that heavy glass tube acting like a fore/aft beam that's glued right through the transom, I expect it's actually stronger than a plain transom .. the force on the motor boards is a twisting force, so this is good.
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I think we both used the same manufacturer
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Yep we did Coastline guys are great!!!!
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Brian, with that said I guess there is no concerns with weakening the transom? I really like them.
Is there a plan in mind to be able to block them off? Foam plug?
It's like holes in a beam ... it depends on how close they are to higher-stress locations and what direction the force is. Notice that the scuppers are far enough away from the transom corners, and with that heavy glass tube acting like a fore/aft beam that's glued right through the transom, I expect it's actually stronger than a plain transom .. the force on the motor boards is a twisting force, so this is good.
The tubes are also sitting on a 1/2" p[re-glassed piece of plywood fillet taped to both the front and back transom. The tube is also sitting in a bed of peanut butter between the 1/2" ply and the glass tube adding to the strength. The 1/2" ply deck going on top will also add a lot of strength. I was at first a little concerned about the ladder cut out but it also is supper strong now that it is done. Only thing left to cut in is the motor well drain holes they will be 3/4" x 2 1/2"
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I'll have to use that scupper design. Very cool. I'll file it away. I like the euro transoms as well. That's similar to what I was thinking for the GA, that or what djeffrey did. I've got some time to decide. Where did you get your gas tanks done?
Yes Same as Todd. The guys at Coastline are good guys, I would recommend them
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Adding this 3/4 plywood floor for my ladder to mount too will help stiffen things up (see last photo) . It is cleated under the deck on both sides as well as the front. The top 1x3 cleats are solid mahogany glued to both sides. It's bulletproof in my mind. Tons of creamy peanut butter of course. Having a pullout step ladder will be sweet in and out of the water. You can't really see it right now but there is a 1 1/2" wide gap at an angle between the side of the hull and the 2 mahogany pisces. I'm going to just keep pouring leftover epoxy and peanut butter in it for a while till its full. Probably will take about a pint or two is my guess. Figure its better to be full of epoxy than a sealed off hole that could get condensation in and cause problems
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Chuck,
I really like the scuppers, may be too late for me to add but maybe not.
Looking good!
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Chuck,
I really like the scuppers, may be too late for me to add but maybe not.
Looking good!
Thanks they are really easy to make. I won't make a soft rubber trap door at the back to keep water out unless it proves I need to. I think I am high enough above the waterline I should be fine.
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Very nice scuppers. That’s thinking outside the box.
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Progress made. I got all the sheer shelf caps on including a modified front cap (no anchor well cut out) I will be installing a windless. I decided to cut my extended sides off a bit, seemed like it was going to be a bit of a pain the was I was originally intending. Instead of extending up 5" it will now only extend about 2 3/4". I just build up the inside so I have about 2 /2" on top, so after 1/4" rounding for glass work I will have 2" of flat for my railing base plates. I have been grinding a bevel on all edges where plywood meets plywood like the sides butting up to the top sheer shelf cap. Grinding a bevel in this joint then filling with peanut butter, I think this makes a stronger joint. This is the only area on the Tolman WideBody I built in 2013 that has had a bit of separation here and there. All these joint are now filled and sanded to this point ready for glassing. I will be glassing all these joints with 3" & 4" 20 total oz of cloth. I don't want to see any more joints with a hairline crack. All soles are now cut and both sides glassed ready for install as well as all the other underfloor structure.
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Cruising and looking good! Glad you blazed the trail for the euro transom, you are giving me some useful ideas to chew on. :)
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Must be a lot faster when you know what your doing. I’m just winging it. It takes a lot of day dreaming, and some trial and error. Nice progress!
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Really looking good. I like the bulwark update and how the euro transom is turning out ... first-class work!
Odd on that Widebody. Where exactly were the hairline cracks? Amidships? If so, it indicates that the w/b needs wider shelves, wider sheer decks, to prevent oil-canning and hogging related flex ... which causes the sheer at amidships to flex outward and inward respectively. You really want a strong sheer structure.
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Really looking good. I like the bulwark update and how the euro transom is turning out ... first-class work!
Odd on that Widebody. Where exactly were the hairline cracks? Amidships? If so, it indicates that the w/b needs wider shelves, wider sheer decks, to prevent oil-canning and hogging related flex ... which causes the sheer at amidships to flex outward and inward respectively. You really want a strong sheer structure.
Actually I got minor hairline cracking in several places where there were butt joints like the attached drawing. I think by grinding in a small bevel in the joint and filling with PB will stop this from happening.
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Because fiberglass has such HIGH tensile strength, something else to consider is to use more total ounces of glass over those types of joints. Like, use 9 or 10 ounce tape first, then add a wider 9 or 10 ounce taping on top of the first. Bullet proof.
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Because fiberglass has such HIGH tensile strength, something else to consider is to use more total ounces of glass over those types of joints. Like, use 9 or 10 ounce tape first, then add a wider 9 or 10 ounce taping on top of the first. Bullet proof.
Yep I plan on 20 total oz. of cloth, only used 10 oz on the WideBody. Bulletproof is the goal
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Thank you everyone for the compliments. I do a lot of head scratching just like everyone else, especially moving forward, I have never done a wheelhouse or cuddy before.
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You'll have an awesome house and cuddy ... if they're anything like what you've accomplished so far! :D
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There is a lot going on in the aft end, and the thinking - planning part is the most important part. Well done, looking forward to your progress.
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There is a lot going on in the aft end, and the thinking - planning part is the most important part. Well done, looking forward to your progress.
Normally I think it makes sense to wait to complete the stern last just for ease of access while building the interior of the hull. Sine there are no plans for a euro transom I wasn't sure how it would all work out. I wanted to make sure all my underfloor piping, electrical plumbing ect. came out right. So the only way I could be sure to get it all right the first time was to build the transom. Actually with the tuna door the access is not to bad. Lots of thinking!!!!
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FRONT BOW CAP: I ended up stacking 2 pieces of solid sapele from the aft wh bulkhead just up past where the forward cuddy bh will go. Then filled in the rest with a layer of marine ply 3/4" and 1/2" to make the 1 1/4" radius fill in. My anchor pulpit will mount here extending out about 11" it's a 26" long 2x6 piece of solid sapele. Covered it with 20 oz. of cloth she will last forever!!!
This setup should work well with the horizontal windlass I am going with. It will mount on the lower deck just behind the center of the radius right over the rode locker.
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That is called solid as a rock!
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Looks beautious! I see some lines drawn underneath ... you going with a windlass and anchor rode compartment? Winch? Big plastic tub? :D
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Looks beautious! I see some lines drawn underneath ... you going with a windlass and anchor rode compartment? Winch? Big plastic tub? :D
yep going with a locker in the center leaving room for a open storage spot on each side. the opening is not huge but any storage is at a premium. Think I will be using the Maxwell Windless HRC FF-6 horizonal it is fairly compact for a horizontal windless.
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Nice ... I like how it looks too:
(https://cdn3.volusion.com/udf6t.emua7/v/vspfiles/photos/shrc6-2.gif)
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Nice ... I like how it looks too:
(https://cdn3.volusion.com/udf6t.emua7/v/vspfiles/photos/shrc6-2.gif)
That's the one. Strange that on line they say it has 900 pounds of pull. Looking up on the Maxwell site they say it has 600 pounds, still plenty of pull at 600 pounds.
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Pretty nice feature with the free fall lever, I am not sure they had that when I was shopping or I would have went with that one. good choice Chuck!
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Pretty nice feature with the free fall lever, I am not sure they had that when I was shopping or I would have went with that one. good choice Chuck!
It took some digging to find it. I don't think they did a good job with their key words for finding their product on line.
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Dry fitting the gas tanks, they fit perfect!!! I made the hold down tabs 5/8" narrower on each side of the stringer to allow room for a 1/2" thick spacer of UHMW. Nothing will be touching the aluminum but UHMW on the tanks anywhere. I will glue on strips of 1/2" UHMW to the bottom of the tank also.
I also glued on some 3/4" ply to the underside of the sheer shelves in the cockpit area. Tomorrow is time to measure all the underfloor plumbing and piping
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How much Fuel capacity do you have?
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How much Fuel capacity do you have?
Rear tank is 53 gal. Front tank is 108 total is 161. Both fuel pick-up lines are on the aft of both tanks for max usable fuel.
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It looks like we chose very similar size tanks. I’m 120 and 50. Have you decided how you will maintain access to the fuel fittings below deck? Will they be in the cockpit area? That is where I will have my access.
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I'll use commercial deck plates one in the W/House one in the cockpit area. No desire to build the deck plates!! I won't be putting any sealer or finish on the tanks, been doing some research. The only thing touching the tank will be 3m 5200 then 1/2" x 1 1/2" strips UHMW sitting on a subfloor so any water that may end up in the bilge forward of the aft W/House bulkhead can have fee flow under the tanks. I will try and seal off the tank area as well as I can, water tight if you will other than a vent hole forward and aft for ventilation. I will also install a drain plug to the bilge just incase
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From everything I am reading aluminum tanks need no protective coating. it will oxidize on its own for a natural protective finish. The key is no moisture can be trapped anywhere including how it is supported on the floor. My tank manufacturer recommends gluing UHMW with 3M 5200 directly to the tank. I have at least 1/8" of 5200 spread out evenly on 1/2" x 1 1/2" wide UHMW. Just put it on the bottom of the tank with pressure to squeeze out some of the 5200 on the edges. Makes a 100% watertight seal between the UHMW and the tank. No way for moister to get in-between the 5200 and the tank to cause corrosion.
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Gas tank floorboards all glassed in as well as most of the other stringers. Next up setting gas & water tanks as well as black water tank. Running all the PVC with plumbing runs. All my wiring showed up today also at least according to my Fed-X alerts. I'm stuck at home for another week, I got a dose of the crud. Falling behind a little bit because of it. Oh well I'll catch up, actually one of my employees is doing a bunch of interior sanding for me this week....sooo sweet!
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Today was my first day out of quarantine so I got back working on the Kodiak. Today I decided it was time to start the process of fitting the bow thruster motor to the tunnel. Little scary drilling the tube it had to be perfect. Rather than use the paper template I decided to use a strap clamp to clamp the actuale motor mount that goes on the tube right to the tube. I used it as a drill guide worked out real well. I also got the last piece of glass on the back of the transom so not the entire outside of the hull is 100% glassed. The anchor well bottom and face pre-cut and glassed ready for install.
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Welcome back,
Great idea to use the motor mount for the template, hard to mess it up that way.
Nice to see progress.
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Welcome back,
Great idea to use the motor mount for the template, hard to mess it up that way.
Nice to see progress.
Thanks! The motor mount was about 1/2" thick where the bolts go through so it acted as a guide to help drill straight also. The directions made such a big deal about getting the template centered so the holes would line up with the mount. Pretty fail safe just using the mount as a pattern
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Hey Brian is it necessary to paint the entire underfloor with bilge paint? Or just the areas that will have access. I'm not 100% sure if epoxy needs to be painted under the deck since there is no UV
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Been working on all my underfloor requirements. My bow thruster is now concealed under the cuddy floor. My knees are killing me!! :)
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Your killing it. The head tank thing is Interesting. Can you put up a link please? Your head will be adjacent to it? Thanks
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Your killing it. The head tank thing is Interesting. Can you put up a link please? Your head will be adjacent to it? Thanks
Yes Todd, I recessed the tank into the floor as much as possible, I think around 6 to 7 inches. it is 30" long and is recessed into the toilet room (just forward of the tank) about 5" so only 25" will be aft into the cockpit area. I will build a seat/step to enclose it with a lid for access. Doing pretty much the same thing with a matching bench on the port side to house propane tank and Honda 2000 generator. The unit I used is all self contained and ready to go. You could save some money by buying just the tank and doing all the plumbing yourself but I really did not want to reinvent a blackwater tank, don't need those kind of dirty stinky problems. I did a ton of research on the whole thing this was the best for my purposes. Wish I could have found a smaller tank around 15 gallons but there is not alot of tanks all set up. The only other one I could find was only find a 8 gallon tank that did not coast way too much money, this one wasn't cheep as it was. The tanks is 28 gallons which is bigger than need with today's laws but we all know dumping at sea will end one of these days. Just wait for the Green New Deal :)
Here is a link to the tank https://www.fisheriessupply.com/sealand-holding-tank-system-hts/322012812
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Finailly the pool noodles came in!!! Time to start stuffing, I got 60 noodles stuffed pretty tightly under the wheelhouse. Wheelhouse sole getting glued down tonight as well as glueing in the aft cuddy bulkhead.
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Where'd you buy your pool noodles? I bought out some of the local target stores and 99¢ stores last summer but they all took the merch off their shelves being winter and all...
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I bought 2 big boxes at the dollar tree last summer. I put 90 or so under the PH. I’ll poke the rest under the cockpit
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Where'd you buy your pool noodles? I bought out some of the local target stores and 99¢ stores last summer but they all took the merch off their shelves being winter and all...
I got rejects from
https://foamnoodles.com/collections/close-outs-rejects
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I got rejects from
https://foamnoodles.com/collections/close-outs-rejects
Nice find, I was thinking I was going to have to wait until summer to finish my cockpit sole... Not anymore!
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I got rejects from
https://foamnoodles.com/collections/close-outs-rejects
Nice find, I was thinking I was going to have to wait until summer to finish my cockpit sole... Not anymore!
Yep every crazy boat builder finds a deal once in a while. Glad it helped out!!
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Cuddy benches, sides, front & rear bulkheads in. Tomorrow working on cuddy roof framing with escape hatch and glue up the 1/4" lid for the roof. W/House cockpit sole all glued in.
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Very nice! It's truly amazing how quickly you are putting that boat together. Fun to watch...
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Very nice! It's truly amazing how quickly you are putting that boat together. Fun to watch...
Thank you! It has helped a lot to have one of my employees helping me 7+- hours a day the last 2 1/2 months. Just keeping him busy he's a good worker and don't want to lose him. Things have been slow with cabinet orders with covid but it's picking up soon so I will lose him back to his real job in a few weeks. I probably get about 35 hours a week on it myself, it has been moving along very well. I'm going up to Spanaway to pick up my new boat trailer tomorrow.
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Nice trailers in Spanaway! Word Boat Trailer Sales ?
Just a short drive for me, good choice.
Boat is coming along nicely!
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My trailer is on its way home. So Pleased with it, below are some photos and what I ordered. Sandy at World Boats is great to work with.
Links to World Boats
S cell:253-376-8273 or 888-387-1963 Spanaway WA 98387 near Tacoma-Seattle (f) 815-346-3397
Link To World Boats http://www.wordboats.com/
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That's a good looking trailer... I went with an aluminum one as well (from kokopelli)
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That's a good looking trailer... I went with an aluminum one as well (from kokopelli)
Thanks! I am excited I didn't really know what it would look like very pleased
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Wow! Sweeet trailer! Love the wheels too ... you can go faster on the corners with sport racing wheels like those! :D
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Wow! Sweeet trailer! Love the wheels too ... you can go faster on the corners with sport racing wheels like those! :D
Thanks Brian, just got my first look at it in person fast corners was my first thought...LOL
She's going to look good at the boat shows
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Which model/length did you go with? I gotta. It’s the bullet too, soon I hope. My build is moving slower than yours
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Which model/length did you go with? I gotta. It’s the bullet too, soon I hope. My build is moving slower than yours
The model was VATB-8725 but I had it modified. The attached shows what was ordered. Also note if you want leaf springs you have to ask for them.
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Cuddy is getting close to to putting the roof on. I used African Mahogany for the roof supports. I was going to paint everything white inside the cuddy for light reflation. It more work but I'm not sure I want to paint the supports. Sure is pretty wood. I am thinking of doing a little Mahogany ascent trims in the wheelhouse. It more work and upkeep but i like the look. We will see
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Maybe paint the inside of the roof before it goes on, then you'd just have to touch up the perimeter ... use PL Cement, narrow bead down the middle of each piece, on those fancy wood supports and just glass/epoxy the perimeter joints.
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Maybe paint the inside of the roof before it goes on, then you'd just have to touch up the perimeter ... use PL Cement, narrow bead down the middle of each piece, on those fancy wood supports and just glass/epoxy the perimeter joints.
I was thinking about that but didnt know if epoxy on paint would hold good enough? Could sand off the paint or thought I might mask off the perimeter the underside before painting. All I have is primer I have not selected my colors yet. I'm thinking all off white now! who wants to stand out these days, I'd rather blend in with all the other white boats :)
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Sure is pretty wood. I am thinking of doing a little Mahogany ascent trims in the wheelhouse. It more work and upkeep but i like the look. We will see
Something like this ?
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Sure is pretty wood. I am thinking of doing a little Mahogany ascent trims in the wheelhouse. It more work and upkeep but i like the look. We will see
Something like this ?
Yes Absolutely Gorgeous!! But that's more than just a little more work :) SUPER NICE!!
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The cuddy roof is not structural for the boat ... main thing is you'd like it strong enough to stand on. Epoxy on top of paint works fine for that - just rough it up first. Or as you mentioned, mask off the epoxy zones and paint after you're done. Maybe it's just as much work as just painting it after installing? Dunno ...
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The cuddy roof is not structural for the boat ... main thing is you'd like it strong enough to stand on. Epoxy on top of paint works fine for that - just rough it up first. Or as you mentioned, mask off the epoxy zones and paint after you're done. Maybe it's just as much work as just painting it after installing? Dunno ...
My first thought was to paint it all white. I only used mahogany because of its resistance to moisture. Its just so pretty to cover up with paint but much easier!!! This Kodiak has been a big boat build!!! We will see how it ends up :)
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My first thought was to paint it all white. I only used mahogany because of its resistance to moisture. Its just so pretty to cover up with paint but much easier!!! This Kodiak has been a big boat build!!! We will see how it ends up :)
Yeah ... maybe go all white/light inside the cuddy and save the fancy wood trim work for inside the house?
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Upkeep on inside wood is minimal compared to outside wood. A few coats at nice spar varnish will outlast you. I love the wood highlights in a wood boat
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Been dry fitting some of the wheelhouse items while pre-glassing other parts. It always helps me to mock stuff up before going too far.
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Looking really good! Nicely done, sir, and very helpful as I’m looking ahead. Thanks for posting the photos.
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Looking really good! Nicely done, sir, and very helpful as I’m looking ahead. Thanks for posting the photos.
Thanks Randy, First light coat of primer in the cuddy.
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Looks good! Are you going to spool-up your anchor rode on top of the bow, or will part of the space visible to the cuddy carry a bin for anchor rode coming in from a windlass?
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Looks good! Are you going to spool-up your anchor rode on top of the bow, or will part of the space visible to the cuddy carry a bin for anchor rode coming in from a windlass?
I'll be using a windlass, the rode will fall into the center compartment it will have a latched door on it for access when needed. I sloped the floor towards the bow a bit to a through hull attached to a hose that drains into the bilge.
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Progress photos, I'm building a bit out of order from the directions just to keeping things moving. Cuddy is completely primed now as well as the inside of the cuddy roof. Will pint both in the next week so when the cuddy roof goes on the cuddy will be mostly finished.
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Cockpit storage/bench seats almost done. The radius corners are from cutting up a 6" fiberglass tube leftover from one my thruster tunnels. Both compartment soles are down on top of the chine. I did installed a false sole right on top of the chine that ran to the main stringers over the bilge area, doing this gave me a lot more height for storage.
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Going to be nice having storage that slides out, nice to see some progress. Coming along nicely Chuck!
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Going to be nice having storage that slides out, nice to see some progress. Coming along nicely Chuck!
Thanks I appreciate the kind words! Getting very excited
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HIT A MAJOR Milestone Today!! pulled the Triger and ordered up 2ea. White 140 HP Suzuki motors today including the dual mechanical binnacle control, Seastar hydraulic steering cylinder, stainless steel props & dual digital gauges. Now I got 60 days to get ready for install of the motors, talk about major incentive to build fast!!!
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SWEEeeeeet!
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Very cool! What convinced you to go with the Suzukis? Taking delivery in 60 days is quick, when I was talking to the yamaha dealers they all said they were still backordered into oblivion...
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Very cool! What convinced you to go with the Suzukis? Taking delivery in 60 days is quick, when I was talking to the yamaha dealers they all said they were still backordered into oblivion...
Exactly I can't even get my normal Yamaha dealer to call me back with a quote, I'm sure it's because he can't get them. So Suzuki it is, the only downside I see is if I need warranty work outside of Oregon. I've done a fair amount of research on Suzuki because I am a Yami guy. Pretty much hear all good stuff, there both quality motors. I'm not willing to give up a year on the pond waiting on manufacturing delays due to Covid.
The other big issue to me is I'm ending up with 280 hp instead of 300 hp going with 150 Yamaha's just 20 hp difference. 150hp Yamaha is 80 pounds heavier than a 140 Suzuki for a total of 160 pounds more. Plus the Yamaha's if available are about 5K more for the hole setup. I'm saving 180 pounds and $5000 by going with the Suzuki's and all I loose is 20 hp and a better warranty network.
One of the things I read during my research and makes a lot of sense is now that E-tec is out of the picture Suzuki is going to make a bigger push to establish more dealers. We will see I hope so. These outboards today are so reliable I'm not to worried about it.
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Suzi's have become pretty popular in Alaska and are growing in popularity on the west coast. You won't notice the 20 horsepower difference v. the Yammers ... it would've been half used up by pushing the extra 180#... :)
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Suzi's have become pretty popular in Alaska and are growing in popularity on the west coast. You won't notice the 20 horsepower difference v. the Yammers ... it would've been half used up by pushing the extra 180#... :)
That was my thinking also, sooooo excited
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Cuddy Roof finally glued on. Sure seems like it takes a lot of prep-work sometimes but sure is sweet to have something almost done as soon as you glue down the roof. Not having the roof on has been holding me up from going much further. But I really did not want to paint the inside of the cuddy after the roof was on. Finally ready to go more vertical!!! Got to geter done
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Sides glued on the wheelhouse. Clamped & glued on the rest for the windows. The 5 gallon buckets are holding down the windshield doubler
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I still cannot believe how flippin fast your moving
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Isn't 5 bait buckets a little much? :D :D :D (I know... you're gluing the doubler down)
Live the helm ... stylish, like everything you do!
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Isn't 5 bait buckets a little much? :D :D :D (I know... you're gluing the doubler down)
Live the helm ... stylish, like everything you do!
That's what my back was telling me when I was lifting the buckets into the boat and up on the doubler. Thanks Brian, its funny because I come up with somethings thinking they are somewhat original then I see someone else that's already done it. It would be easier just to see it first!!
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You've got an artist's eye ... one of the reasons your business has done well all these years... That's something you can't buy!
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You've got an artist's eye ... one of the reasons your business has done well all these years... That's something you can't buy!
Speaking of my eye. Did I understand correctly in manual 2 (yes i'm finally looking at it more) talking about the angle of the center window for the Newport was only slanted forward 12 degrees off 90? When I dry fit my 24 x 30 center panel and lean it forward 12 degrees it looks good, just thought they were slanted more. This also sets the stage and angle for the side windows (so I wanna get it right) and thought I read somewhere they were 17 degrees
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I'm not building a newport but if I remember correctly I think the windshield slant in combination with the down slant of the cuddy is where the 17° comes from (ie the angle between the windshield and the cuddy roof)...
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I'm not building a newport but if I remember correctly I think the windshield slant in combination with the down slant of the cuddy is where the 17° comes from (ie the angle between the windshield and the cuddy roof)...
Correct but 17 only works if you build exactly to the drawings which I did not. I've built several hulls but never a superstructure so I'm in new territory now, I like it
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I'm not building a newport but if I remember correctly I think the windshield slant in combination with the down slant of the cuddy is where the 17° comes from (ie the angle between the windshield and the cuddy roof)...
Chuck, Jason,
Yes, the brackets shown in the manual do not match the windshield's angle because they're attached to a slanted cuddy roof. If you kept your jig level as I always suggest, you can measure the down (or up) angle of the cuddy roof and easily figure out the angle necessary for the windshield. When in doubt, mock it up!
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I'm not building a newport but if I remember correctly I think the windshield slant in combination with the down slant of the cuddy is where the 17° comes from (ie the angle between the windshield and the cuddy roof)...
Chuck, Jason,
Yes, the brackets shown in the manual do not match the windshield's angle because they're attached to a slanted cuddy roof. If you kept your jig level as I always suggest, you can measure the down (or up) angle of the cuddy roof and easily figure out the angle necessary for the windshield. When in doubt, mock it up!
Brian, so is 12 degrees off of a vertical 90 correct for the forward slant if the cuddy roof was level horizontally or is it 17 degrees?
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Brian, so is 12 degrees off of a vertical 90 correct for the forward slant if the cuddy roof was level horizontally or is it 17 degrees?
For the Newport, the forward-lean of the windshield is 17 degrees as measured from the vertical ... 73 degrees upward from a horizontal line. This is from perfectly vertical or horizontal lines alone, no cuddy roof calculated into it. Example) If your cuddy roof slopes downward at 5 degrees, then the BRACKET would need to be the 73 degrees up from the vertical plus the cuddy roof's 5 degrees down from the verticle .... BRACKET would be 78 degrees.
One of these prevents all errors ... no math required ($29) - Level your jig fore/aft and THEN measure... level jigs save a world of hurt:
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Brian, so is 12 degrees off of a vertical 90 correct for the forward slant if the cuddy roof was level horizontally or is it 17 degrees?
For the Newport, the forward-lean of the windshield is 17 degrees as measured from the vertical ... 73 degrees upward from a horizontal line. This is from perfectly vertical or horizontal lines alone, no cuddy roof calculated into it. Example) If your cuddy roof slopes downward at 5 degrees, then the BRACKET would need to be the 73 degrees up from the vertical plus the cuddy roof's 5 degrees down from the verticle .... BRACKET would be 78 degrees.
One of these prevents all errors ... no math required ($29) - Level your jig fore/aft and THEN measure... level jigs save a world of hurt:
I have one of those angle thing-majiggers already :)
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I have one of those angle thing-majiggers already :)
Me too ... but the old-fashion kind where the needle is attached to a weight:
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Wondering what others have done for window heights cut outs. Talking with one window manufacture the window revile ends up being about 1 1/4" less than the cut out which allows for the window frame. So as drawn I would only have 19 3/4" +- of actual window to look through. The way its drawn right now once windows are in I would see about 2 3/8"+- of paint where the top window shelf is and see about 4 3/8 "+- of paint between the window frame and bottom of roof at the top., hope that makes sense.
Just manly wondering if 20" +- is high enough for the actual window. I have more room at the top thinking if I add the roof accent border I would want more revile at the top. I worry about taking away too much support for the roof.
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I would say that you can leave as little as 2-1/2" at the top of the windows if you want, e.g. enough room for 3" wide glass tape on a filet (outside).
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I would say that you can leave as little as 2-1/2" at the top of the windows if you want, e.g. enough room for 3" wide glass tape on a filet (outside).
What's your opinion on only having 20" of visible window vertically to look through? I could steel a few inches vertically like you say from the top rail and get 22".
I might do that if I go with the roof without the built up visor. I do like the visor look but thought I would wait til I get there to decide. If I ever added the visor (probably wrong term) I would want the wider top rail with only 20" but not sure what is is typical. I didn't see anything on typical side window heights in the drawings. I should go look at some boats but there are not to many boats on lots here in Central Oregon like this.
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I really need to slow down now that I am on new ground, never building vertical before other than a center console. I decided to go with some 1/2" 10' long solid mahogany for the window rest, rather than scarf up some 1/4 ply. I made 1/4 x 1/4 rabbit cut for it to sit on top of the lower side wall of the house. I used the inside of the sheer as a template for the radius on the outside of the window rest, worked great.
I got ahead of myself and got it all clamped and glued before realizing I forgot the 1/2 x 1 nailer Brian calls for. I had to let it dry so from that point it was a lot easier to do a fillet with pecan wood flour and about 20% milled glass fiber with 10oz.
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I don’t know what any one else did, but. I made my side window openings at 20”. Rear PH window openings are 24”. The windshield openings are 22”, but at the lean the side windows top and bottom line up with the windshields. I think it looks proportional. The side panels are pretty wiggly, if I could do over I would probably gone with 1/2” ply there. I did on the windshields and they are stout. HTH
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I don’t know what any one else did, but. I made my side window openings at 20”. Rear PH window openings are 24”. The windshield openings are 22”, but at the lean the side windows top and bottom line up with the windshields. I think it looks proportional. The side panels are pretty wiggly, if I could do over I would probably gone with 1/2” ply there. I did on the windshields and they are stout. HTH
Is there room before, between, and after the windows to add top-to-bottom stiffener strips? Use natural wood not ply ... it's stiffer.
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Yes, I need to clamp some straight edges to the side panels about half way up and apply some sort of edge stiffener at the top of the PH side panels. I just haven't dealt with any of the roof elements yet. I'm not looking forward to the overhead stuff. I'm still not sure how I want to attack that part of the build yet
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I have 1/4” more on top of window opening than below 31/4" vs. 3". Dont know if this will help you at all?
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Not to worry ... those windows will be super-stiff when the boat's finished. If you're worried about the 1/4" (I wouldn't worry), note that you can add the aforementioned stiffener strips and that most window manufactures have 2 grades of windows (at least) ... the better grade designed to be structural and carry some load v. being mostly cosmetic wind-blockers :) . Look into it. But really, those side panels will be fine once the boat is done. You can also add a 2nd layer of 1/4" around the window openings - something a little thicker for the windows to clamp onto. Lots of ideas to kick around ... but no worries.
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Todd thanks for positing pictures of your wheelhouse windows it helps so much especially with some of the dimensions you listed above. I'm a huge visual person, so with this info it confirms I'm on the right track!!
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Not to worry ... those windows will be super-stiff when the boat's finished. If you're worried about the 1/4" (I wouldn't worry), note that you can add the aforementioned stiffener strips and that most window manufactures have 2 grades of windows (at least) ... the better grade designed to be structural and carry some load v. being mostly cosmetic wind-blockers :) . Look into it. But really, those side panels will be fine once the boat is done. You can also add a 2nd layer of 1/4" around the window openings - something a little thicker for the windows to clamp onto. Lots of ideas to kick around ... but no worries.
I'm using 1/4" ply for the side window walls. I'm considering applying 1/4" mahogany to the inside face but so much is covered with the window frames not sure it's worth the extra work. I was thinking with a clear finish.
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There is so little side panel left to do much of anything with I can’t imagine messing around with is left. I think it was Djeffrey who showed pics of the fuzzy boat fabric on the side panels a d I’m sold! FWIW I left a much larger space between the forward and aft windows than what I’ve seen Others do. I want to put some britework Between the windows and just in front of the ph bulkhead. Something for curtain rods to mount to or whatever
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Todd thanks for positing pictures of your wheelhouse windows it helps so much especially with some of the dimensions you listed above. I'm a huge visual person, so with this info it confirms I'm on the right track!!
Your welcome, I’m not sure if following my lead is the right track or not. Having said that I sure have taken a lot of inspiration from those ahead of me.
FWIW the windshields are the first windows you address if your building by the plans. If you don’t get the openings the right size you cannot get the side window’s edges to plain with the windshield’s edges. Plus you need room for wiper motors and some people like to extend the roof supports ahead of the windshields too. Anyway. I’m happy with the numbers i chose and I’m sure whatever you do will be spectacular
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As a matter of fact, an alternative way of installing the windshield ... IF ... your center pane is wide enough, is to install the grab rails and center windshield at the same time ... either by using screws through the top of the windshield into the ends of the grab rails or letting the grab rails run (through slots) past the windshield as some have done. The advantage here is that you can easily mock-up and adjust the windshield lean angle before you lock it in with epoxy .. no angled brackets on the cuddy roof to hold the right angle.
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I'm now concentrating on finishing up the helm with all the cut outs for equipment and figured out my binnacle mount. I need to get the helm all completed including finish painting so I will be ready for motors when the show up. Holes are cut for both digital engine monitor's, chart plotter, ignition switches and of course the binnacle. Also ordered 2ea. 8 gang switch panels already pre-wired with fuse slots. Haven't cut the holes yet until they get here.
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Awesome captain's chair! That'll fit my big, oops, my fine er... backside perfectly!! :D :D :D ::) 8)
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Awesome captain's chair! That'll fit my big, oops, my fine er... backside perfectly!! :D :D :D ::) 8)
I really like the fact that the back rest flips forward so it will flip both ways for the dinette and the co pilot seat just as you have it designed.
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I really like the fact that the back rest flips forward so it will flip both ways for the dinette and the co pilot seat just as you have it designed.
That's totally cool and useful ... :D
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I really like the fact that the back rest flips forward so it will flip both ways for the dinette and the co pilot seat just as you have it designed.
That's totally cool and useful ... :D
I forgot to mention the front part of the lower seat flips up to use as a leaning post. Pretty nice seat for $336.00ea. I get a (Pro) discount from Fisheries Supply, halfway through my build I contacted them to see if I qualified since I sell kits and I am registered with the Coast Guard as a boat manufacture. They set me up so I get a discount on everything I buy from them. I saved $130.00 on each seat since they sell for $466.00. Sure wish I would have asked earlier on!!! Here is a link
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/springfield-marine-twin-46-flip-up-seat/1043001
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Nice seats, sit facing forward or facing back, I just checked the link and it looks like you got that last ones in stock. Looking good.
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I looked all over for something like that! Too late now, maybe down the road. Its bitchen that's for sure
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Thanks! I have been looking at seats for a long time, when I ran across these they fit all my wants. I would have liked to put suspension under it but didn't want to give up the 2 drawers under my seat. I have the slide/swivel mounted right to my bench top. The other reason when I'm the caption and also fishing I stand to drive most of the time when @ the helm, unless trolling. Trolling I will be on the dance floor most of the time with auto pilot I hope:) Trolling with auto pilot worked out sweet when I had the gas guzzling Grady with it's twin 225's
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Thanks! I have been looking at seats for a long time, when I ran across these they fit all my wants. I would have liked to put suspension under it but didn't want to give up the 2 drawers under my seat. I have the slide/swivel mounted right to my bench top. The other reason when I'm the caption and also fishing I stand to drive most of the time when @ the helm, unless trolling. Trolling I will be on the dance floor most of the time with auto pilot I hope:) Trolling with auto pilot worked out sweet when I had the gas guzzling Grady with it's twin 225's
In Alaska, there was an outfit that made seat mounts ... 'poor mans seat mounts' that worked well. Basically just a rectangle of 1/4" (maybe 3/16") aluminum bent around a 1/2" radius or so ... drilled for a regular seat swivel on top and the same on the bottom. Kinda like a 'V' laying on it's side. Wish I had a source or picture, but they really did work well and were cheap. I'm sure that a smart guy could figure out how to make one ... Maybe Neal Schlee remembers where to get these ... he had a couple (and so did I).
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I sure hope you’re able to get this thing up to the boat showthis year. Would love to see it finished or not.
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I sure hope you’re able to get this thing up to the boat showthis year. Would love to see it finished or not.
I will be there 100% with boat in tow. I hope to spend a few days fishing after the show.
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That would sure be an impressive build time. Looks like your on schedule
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That would sure be an impressive build time. Looks like your on schedule
It would be a piece of cake to finish but I had to start working in the office now that were getting busy again. Now I am a weekend warrior and a few hours during the week. Still should have her done before September
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That’s still wicked impressive. I stArted in January of 19 and won’t be done by September!
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That’s still wicked impressive. I stArted in January of 19 and won’t be done by September!
Thanks, it's definitely a labor of love. I also had one of my more experienced cabinet makers helping for about 3 months full time. Keeping him busy during Covid. Helped out a lot, he's also is busy working on cabinets again, so slow goes the boat. It is nice to have the CNC to cut a lot of the bigger and more complicated parts. Just draw it up in cad and hit go!!!
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Cheater!
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I was going to say, that CNC has to be a big help, lofting and cutting things by hand is for the proverbial birds. You kind of have the ultimate build set up; space, shelter, cnc, help, time... It's all gonna make for a sweet boat.
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Cheater!
Ha! That "help" cost him real money!
:D
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Yes I know. Just having fun. I’m sure he will set a long standing record for his project completion. Having help, especially dependable quality help is a luxury some of us will never know. I’m a bit Jealous I will admit.
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Yes I know. Just having fun. I’m sure he will set a long standing record for his project completion. Having help, especially dependable quality help is a luxury some of us will never know. I’m a bit Jealous I will admit.
Stuff I'll never know for sure! Chuck is a hard-working American Dream guy who built his big business from scratch and has/is succeeding fantastically ... he ought to get a bennie or two, eh? He's earned it ... I'm a super jelly State worker... :) . Chuck is the guy the uber-left hates the most ... whoops, got political. But truthful ...
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Yes I know. Just having fun. I’m sure he will set a long standing record for his project completion. Having help, especially dependable quality help is a luxury some of us will never know. I’m a bit Jealous I will admit.
Stuff I'll never know for sure! Chuck is a hard-working American Dream guy who built his big business from scratch and has/is succeeding fantastically ... he ought to get a bennie or two, eh? He's earned it ... I'm a super jelly State worker... :) . Chuck is the guy the uber-left hates the most ... whoops, got political. But truthful ...
YEP! Love my boats, guns, women, freedom and the old school American Way back when your word meant something!
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Sounds like my kinda guy. Hope to see him on the water some day.
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YEP! Love my boats, guns, women, freedom and the old school American Way back when your word meant something!
Yup ... we're not going to let some girl like Hidin' Biden take it away either. The show isn't over yet and the truth is coming out...
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Finally Going Vertical! She’s taking shape, side window panels cut and installed. Plywood windshield templates dry fit ready for cutting. I'll be placing my window order soon.
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Sweet! You got all the angles, window proportions etc just right ... it looks like a go-fast boat! Nice...
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Sweet! You got all the angles, window proportions etc just right ... it looks like a go-fast boat! Nice...
Thanks Brian, it's pretty easy when I have such good plans and fantastic support from Glacier Boat of Alaska!!!
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Sweet! You got all the angles, window proportions etc just right ... it looks like a go-fast boat! Nice...
Thanks Brian, it's pretty easy when I have such good plans and fantastic support from Glacier Boat of Alaska!!!
...blush ;)
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Few pictures of my setup for setting the upper sloped window panels and windshield. I have a straight edge on the top outside of the side window panels to keep the 1/4" from bowing, also had to put a strong-back on the center windshield window to pull the bow out to get accurate point measurements for squaring everything up. The angled braces hold the side window at the 5 degree mark. Then clamped a 1x8 with the same roof radius and the rear B/H. I used a super straight piece of 1 1/2"x 3" solid white oak we happen to be running for some molding blanks (super convenient for me) to tape the sharpie to. Worked great to scribe the roof line on the windshield.
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Got my windows all ordered toady, so exciting. After a bunch of research I decided to go with Wynne Enterprises for my windows. Josh @ Wynne was super helpful with different suggestions and explaining all the different types of window he was also very responsive to all my questions. Below is there contact info:
Josh
Wynne Enterprises, Inc.
P.O. Box 445
Tuscumbia, AL 35674
Work: (256)383-0822
Fax: (256)383-5415
www.wynneinc.com
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What's the lead time for them? I am doing the same thing, leaning towards motion but might go with a local guy here... But also might reach out to Josh/Wynne depending on how far out they are...
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There busy but sounds like 6-8 weeks although josh did say more like 8 weeks. I went with the 1/4" safety glass rather than tempered. Safety glass was also about 20% less.
I ordered 4 sliding side windows with screens and 3 windshield windows with a hinged the center window for air flow. Cost for all 7 windows $3211.00 FOB there plant. Tell Josh I sent ya!
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Sounds great! Did you provide templates, drawings, cad files?
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Sounds great! Did you provide templates, drawings, cad files?
Cad drawings for the side windows, I'll be sending templates for the 3 windshield windows.
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Cuddy escape hatch hole cut and mahogany frame made. Still need to scribe the frame to the roof. The frame will be painted on the outside with clear finish on the inside. Got the windshield templates cut and glued in.
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Roof laminating mold almost ready. I'll be laminating 2 layers of 1/4" maranti for the roof. I want it extra strong, I might be putting a dingy up there someday and ya never know what you made need more than 1/4" to mount something too. Besides I don't have any 1/8" marine and I wont use anything but marine grade materials. I also got my cockpit combing/storage faces on and beefed up.
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Window frames all all built. Custom windows on order. Next will be the roof!
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Looking sweet! Your boat's lines are really turning out good ... angles, curves. You've got a good eye.... :)
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Looking sweet! Your boat's lines are really turning out good ... angles, curves. You've got a good eye.... :)
Thanks Brian, it all starts with an awesome design and easy to understand plans!!!
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Looking sweet! Your boat's lines are really turning out good ... angles, curves. You've got a good eye.... :)
Thanks Brian, it all starts with an awesome design and easy to understand plans!!!
;D 8) ;D
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Roof all laminated she's a big one at 90" wide x 154" long (finished size). I used 2 layers of 1/4" marine and butt joined the seams overlapping the second layer seams by 18" . First I secured the bottom layer to the mold with fiberglass nails to hold them in place while I laminated the second layer. I weted out both sides with 2 heavy clear coats then one layer of creamy pb. I was hoping the fiberglass nails would break free easy from nailing down the first layer......thank god they did :)
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Dry fitting the roof before glassing just to be sure it all fits up nice!!
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From here ... it looks like you've got it!!
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From here ... it looks like you've got it!!
What a sweet moment seeing the complete profile after all this work. Other than the roof, some lids, hatches and doors I am done glassing the hull what a wonderful thing. Of course we all know we are never really done playing with epoxy & glass.
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Your dedication to this project is really impressive. So is your work
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Your dedication to this project is really impressive. So is your work
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words :)
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Registered just to say you've done an amazing job! I really respect a craftsman and it is a privilege to get to see their work. I might build a GA when I retire and your thread, and others in the forum, will be of tremendous help. Thanks for taking us along on the journey!
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Chuck, your bout is a thing of beauty. It came out perfect. Your back deck looks like a football field.
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Registered just to say you've done an amazing job! I really respect a craftsman and it is a privilege to get to see their work. I might build a GA when I retire and your thread, and others in the forum, will be of tremendous help. Thanks for taking us along on the journey!
That is quite a compliment, I enjoy sharing the progress especially when it helps others. Thank you very much!!!!
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Chuck, your bout is a thing of beauty. It came out perfect. Your back deck looks like a football field.
Thanks Gary! yours is up next!!!
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Your boat looks amazing. It won't be long and the motors are going.
Thanks for the photos along the way they help.
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When you get a chance.... can you get a closer shot of the interior and exterior PH roof to upper side panel joint. It looks like you have some extra support there.
Also which Suzuki dealer did you use? Would you send others there?
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When you get a chance.... can you get a closer shot of the interior and exterior PH roof to upper side panel joint. It looks like you have some extra support there.
Also which Suzuki dealer did you use? Would you send others there?
I'm using Maximum Marine in Eugene, can't say how there service is yet until the motors get here. I have heard good thing about them. See if the drawing answers your question on the roof to window set-up. It not all in yet so I gave you my drawing
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Yup. I see what you did there. Couldn’t t see it dry well in the pic. I too went to maxxim. Waiting for a quote
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After taking 10 days off of boat building to move to a new house I am finally back at it. Cut out the sole covering my in floor fish hold. Also got my sliding door cut out with mortice slots for the truck wheel and dry fit, works well so far.
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Hi Chuck. Looking great. I may drop by on Wednesday to see your progress!
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Hi Chuck. Looking great. I may drop by on Wednesday to see your progress!
I should be here
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Boat building took about a 3 week hit with not much done while life took me for a small detour. Back at it more now but wish I had more hours to give. Anyway finally got the roof painted, I hope to install it this weekend. I still have one more finish coat to put on.
I also installed 4 fiberglass tubes with a 3/8"i.d. the tube sticks below the bottom of the top enough to get a hose clamped on it to catch rain water in a pinch. It's one of the reasons I built the top the way I did.
I only got 4 weeks to geter done. Not sure I see that happening.
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I’m dense. To collect fresh water? That’s a great idea, crap, another change to consider. Cheaper than a desalination pump for sure.
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I’m dense. To collect fresh water? That’s a great idea, crap, another change to consider. Cheaper than a desalination pump for sure.
Yep fresh I hope! I figure knowing me I might loose or misplace a pump. If I loose my built in rain catch I'll be in big trouble:)
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Collecting fresh water is cool ... also need to drain the roof anyway, hopefully not onto a window that opens :)
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Looks great! I'm very envious of your shop.... all that space and a big paint booth.
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Looks great! I'm very envious of your shop.... all that space and a big paint booth.
Thanks! It does make it nice, I have built boats in my garage/shop also so I feel most people pain building in tight quarters. The both is big enough to get the boat in but I don't think I can make the corner into it. Sure makes it nice
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Been dry fitting gunnel storage doors, bench tops, head/shower walls ect. I am making the top half of the head wall removable to be able to get the sliding windows in and to be able to replace the frame should it ever fail. Trying to get everything ready for shooting the first few coats of primer on the entire boat. My goal is to have it painted and mostly done ready for some horse power and a test run by 7-8-21. Not sure if that's even possible but we will see lots to do. My Garmin 1242 SXV and 18" Fantom radar dome came in so time to have some fun, all electrical work is starting. Somebody was asking on another thread about what other have done for a head in the wheelhouse, can't remember but hope these photos help.
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Great interior pictures, thanks for posting those! How things fit in that space is something I've really been thinking about a lot.
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Great interior pictures, thanks for posting those! How things fit in that space is something I've really been thinking about a lot.
Every inch on the starboard side matters and its different for everyone. I waited until I had the helm dry fit with the steering wheel attached including the binical with my seat attached to a box and moved it around til I was happy. I have 9 feet in the wheelhouse wish I had another 6" but I'm a bigger guy at 260 lb's need more room :)
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Good quality sliding door hardware is hard to find especially for a 1/2" thick door. I ended up going with a lock for a 1" think door. I added a piece of 1/2" solid mahogany a bit larger than the lock itself to make the door 1" think just where the lock is. When I bought this lock it said there were no directions whatsoever for all the mutable morticing that had to be done. Direction said not to buy it unless it was installed by a experienced cabinet or woodworker. boy were they right. Took 8 hours just to make the jigs to rought out all the areas.
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Wow ...
Those pix really help. It turned out nice too :)
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Finally got the roof ready to be glued on later today or tomorrow, she is all painted on the top and edges.
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Lookin good! Something to consider, I supported my roof down the center with 18mm hydrotek cut per spec in the plans (with handles like you have). It's now sagging a bit in the middle, and I wish I had gone a bit more stout. I want to be able to sleep up there in good weather but I am not sure I will feel comfortable putting so much weight on the top of the roof. Perhaps it was a roof construction issue and not the cross members specifically or maybe I screwed up when I glued it in and it was sagging then (didn't notice it) but I wish I had doubled those up in thickness or gone with vg fir or similar. Probably too late to realistically change that for you but... It's really too late for me :)
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Lookin good! Something to consider, I supported my roof down the center with 18mm hydrotek cut per spec in the plans (with handles like you have). It's now sagging a bit in the middle, and I wish I had gone a bit more stout. I want to be able to sleep up there in good weather but I am not sure I will feel comfortable putting so much weight on the top of the roof. Perhaps it was a roof construction issue and not the cross members specifically or maybe I screwed up when I glued it in and it was sagging then (didn't notice it) but I wish I had doubled those up in thickness or gone with vg fir or similar. Probably too late to realistically change that for you but... It's really too late for me :)
I went with 2 layers of 1/4" marine glued up on a jig with the same radius as the roof for a total roof thickness of 1/2" It's much stronger than doing just a single 1/2" layer when you glue up 2 layers with the bend. The directions only call for 1/4" roof. I also went with mahogany for my center supports in the cabin 1 1/4" thick. I haven't got on top yet but I think it will be rock solid once the perimeter is all glued up. I also wanted to sleep and maybe a bit of sunbathing up on top with the right company onboard :) The topside is also all painted so I won't have to get up there to paint. I will be putting sand bags on top to hold it down while I glue it with peanut butter.
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I went with 2 layers of 1/4" marine glued up on a jig with the same radius as the roof for a total roof thickness of 1/2" It's much stronger than doing just a single 1/2" layer when you glue up 2 layers with the bend. The directions only call for 1/4" roof. I also went with mahogany for my center supports in the cabin 1 1/4" thick. I haven't got on top yet but I think it will be rock solid once the perimeter is all glued up. I also wanted to sleep and maybe a bit of sunbathing up on top with the right company onboard :) The topside is also all painted so I won't have to get up there to paint. I will be putting sand bags on top to hold it down while I glue it with peanut butter.
Ya, I did the same, laminated 2 layers of okoume, maybe a 4mm and a 6mm, over a jig with the same radius (radius specified for the PR), but still got the sag. Oh well. I bet the 1 1/4" centers should do the trick. Would be a heck of an experience to be out on a rooftop sunbathing date on your home built boat and have the roof collapse lol...
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I went with 2 layers of 1/4" marine glued up on a jig with the same radius as the roof for a total roof thickness of 1/2" It's much stronger than doing just a single 1/2" layer when you glue up 2 layers with the bend. The directions only call for 1/4" roof. I also went with mahogany for my center supports in the cabin 1 1/4" thick. I haven't got on top yet but I think it will be rock solid once the perimeter is all glued up. I also wanted to sleep and maybe a bit of sunbathing up on top with the right company onboard :) The topside is also all painted so I won't have to get up there to paint. I will be putting sand bags on top to hold it down while I glue it with peanut butter.
Ya, I did the same, laminated 2 layers of okoume, maybe a 4mm and a 6mm, over a jig with the same radius (radius specified for the PR), but still got the sag. Oh well. I bet the 1 1/4" centers should do the trick. Would be a heck of an experience to be out on a rooftop sunbathing date on your home built boat and have the roof collapse lol...
Hum, I hope so I went to a lot of extra work to be able to get up there. The runners do have some flex to them we will see. I also have a few more supports along the side that should help (see diagram) I was also thinking of running a few cross pieces between the valance and the center supports to give the ceiling more of a coffer look that would give more support.
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FWIW, I did the roof per plans mostly. I used 2 layers of 3/8” ply with a layer of 17 oz. biax in tha sandwich. I cut the forward end of the roof supports to 2”. My PH is 8’-9” long. The roof before I trimmed the fore end was 12’. I used lots of bracing when I glued the roof down. I ratchet strapped the roof skin down, then added support under the saggy spots, it cured out great, without the sag built in. The sag I had was about 3/4” before I added the last minute support while it cured. I was very concerned it wouldn’t go away. I can now hang from the handholds. It’s solid
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FWIW, I did the roof per plans mostly. I used 2 layers of 3/8” ply with a layer of 17 oz. biax in tha sandwich. I cut the forward end of the roof supports to 2”. My PH is 8’-9” long. The roof before I trimmed the fore end was 12’. I used lots of bracing when I glued the roof down. I ratchet strapped the roof skin down, then added support under the saggy spots, it cured out great, without the sag built in. The sag I had was about 3/4” before I added the last minute support while it cured. I was very concerned it wouldn’t go away. I can now hang from the handholds. It’s solid
My plan is a bit different, hope it works. Since I already finish painted the topside and edge of the roof I plan on using nothing but peanut butter and sand bags. The roof seems to fit the radius and flat areas real well when dry fitting. I have marked out the w/house outline and supported the roof up 6" above everything so I can drop it straight down and not smear glue everywhere in the process. I'll mount a few locating blocks to aid in dropping the roof in place after I put glue on all surfaces. The roof fits well enough that I just plan on evenly spacing 4ea. 50lb sand bags on each side just above the windows roof edge to weigh it down while the glue dries, should have just the right amount of squeeze out. I don't think I even need to put anything on the front or stern end, the roof itself should be heavy enough for squeeze out. I'll have a plan "B" for this. I also intend a few braces here and there to keep everything straight
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FWIW, I did the roof per plans mostly. I used 2 layers of 3/8” ply with a layer of 17 oz. biax in tha sandwich. I cut the forward end of the roof supports to 2”. My PH is 8’-9” long. The roof before I trimmed the fore end was 12’. I used lots of bracing when I glued the roof down. I ratchet strapped the roof skin down, then added support under the saggy spots, it cured out great, without the sag built in. The sag I had was about 3/4” before I added the last minute support while it cured. I was very concerned it wouldn’t go away. I can now hang from the handholds. It’s solid
My plan is a bit different, hope it works. Since I already finish painted the topside and edge of the roof I plan on using nothing but peanut butter and sand bags. The roof seems to fit the radius and flat areas real well when dry fitting. I have marked out the w/house outline and supported the roof up 6" above everything so I can drop it straight down and not smear glue everywhere in the process. I'll mount a few locating blocks to aid in dropping the roof in place after I put glue on all surfaces. The roof fits well enough that I just plan on evenly spacing 4ea. 50lb sand bags on each side just above the windows roof edge to weigh it down while the glue dries, should have just the right amount of squeeze out. I don't think I even need to put anything on the front or stern end, the roof itself should be heavy enough for squeeze out. I'll have a plan "B" for this. I also intend a few braces here and there to keep everything straight
If you need braces, take pix and I might add additional instructions to the manual for the installation of large/long pilothouse roofs...
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FWIW, I did the roof per plans mostly. I used 2 layers of 3/8” ply with a layer of 17 oz. biax in tha sandwich. I cut the forward end of the roof supports to 2”. My PH is 8’-9” long. The roof before I trimmed the fore end was 12’. I used lots of bracing when I glued the roof down. I ratchet strapped the roof skin down, then added support under the saggy spots, it cured out great, without the sag built in. The sag I had was about 3/4” before I added the last minute support while it cured. I was very concerned it wouldn’t go away. I can now hang from the handholds. It’s solid
My plan is a bit different, hope it works. Since I already finish painted the topside and edge of the roof I plan on using nothing but peanut butter and sand bags. The roof seems to fit the radius and flat areas real well when dry fitting. I have marked out the w/house outline and supported the roof up 6" above everything so I can drop it straight down and not smear glue everywhere in the process. I'll mount a few locating blocks to aid in dropping the roof in place after I put glue on all surfaces. The roof fits well enough that I just plan on evenly spacing 4ea. 50lb sand bags on each side just above the windows roof edge to weigh it down while the glue dries, should have just the right amount of squeeze out. I don't think I even need to put anything on the front or stern end, the roof itself should be heavy enough for squeeze out. I'll have a plan "B" for this. I also intend a few braces here and there to keep everything straight
If you need braces, take pix and I might add additional instructions to the manual for the installation of large/long pilothouse roofs...
Absolutely on the pictures.
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Thanks! ;D
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Good job the boat is looking great, did you ever get the second motor located.
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All bracing done ready to mask off to keep from dripping epoxy and spooge all over my ready to prime/paint hull. I also need to mount a few locating block covered with plastic of course. The roof is 7'4" wide 13'2" long. She's a big one
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Really looks great!
What is the inside width/length of your pilothouse, say from window to window for width and bulkhead to bulkhead for length?
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Yup, looking great 👍🏻. Nice work Chuck!
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Spectacular!
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Really looks great!
What is the inside width/length of your pilothouse, say from window to window for width and bulkhead to bulkhead for length?
Thanks! I'll have to get the width for you I keep forgetting :) I do know I have 109" ID between the 2 bulkheads.
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Thanks for the compliments!! My clamping system was 8 sandbag's @ 50 lb. each four on each side
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I like the aft overhang and the exterior hand holds. It wouldn’t work in my case due to the shape/height of the offset house door and it would have been a head bonker for me at the second station. Maybe on the next one
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My idea of a way to hold my compass and still have access to the back f my GPS. I will finish the mahogany clear
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Pilot house sliding door all dry fit ready for paint. The 2x6 ribbon mahogany board shown laying flat on the door is a header piece to hide and secure the top sliding door track, it will be finished clear. Also dry fit the tuna door with slide latch
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Looking good as always, impressive hand/chisel fitting the striker to. I really like your Tuna door in-swing.
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Moved the "Izzy J" into the paint room today!!!!
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Moved the "Izzy J" into the paint room today!!!!
Can’t wait to see it come out!
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Looks great! Man, having a forklift sure beats a metal pole to "nudge" your boat on the jig around... haha...
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Awesome! Let the fun begin!
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I have to say, even with heavy duty steel casters, moving my hull around is hard.
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Getting primer on in the wheelhouse and the rest of the outside, Hope to get more on tomorrow.
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Looking super. I've been taking some time off fishing and not getting a lot done. Coho is crazy out of Newport right now. You'll be putting that to good use shortly.
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Now that's what I call pretty!!!
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It is looking amazing!
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Outstanding, ready to finish
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My idea of a way to hold my compass and still have access to the back f my GPS. I will finish the mahogany clear
I like the shape of your steering station. Would you be offended if did something very similar?
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My idea of a way to hold my compass and still have access to the back f my GPS. I will finish the mahogany clear
I like the shape of your steering station. Would you be offended if did something very similar?
Not one little bit! Glad you like it, I got a lot of my ideas & inspiration form other boats myself!!!!!
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I was looking at the 12" and up Garmin displays. They sure do jump in price quick at the 12" and up mark! I was wondering if you found any info in your compass (ritchie?) that let you know how close it could be to the screen. Garmin warns about them being to close.
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I was looking at the 12" and up Garmin displays. They sure do jump in price quick at the 12" and up mark! I was wondering if you found any info in your compass (ritchie?) that let you know how close it could be to the screen. Garmin warns about them being to close.
No Seems like the compass needs to be about 2 inches away from the GPS to start to effect it.
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She is all painted inside and out. Putting on some shiny stuff, completing hose hookups ect.
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Very nice, It won't be long and your hanging some engines.
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Looks great. Is your other engine ready yet?
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What a beaut! Super nice boat!
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That looks amazing, makes me want to get going. What paint did you use? Love the bright work in cabin too.
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Thanks for all the comments!!!
So far only one engine is inhouse ready to install.
I used Sherwin Williams Pro-Line Marine Finishes (Polyurethane 4800 Series) i used this on my Tolman WideBody 8 years ago and it's still holding up real well
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Love it! Awesome looking boat, can't wait to see it on the water. Fantastic work on the paint!
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She's looking like she wants to get wet soon!!! Windows installed, rub rail installed on port side. Cabinet doors drawers installed, pic coming later
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More progress. All custom windows & fixed windows on the rear wheelhouse bulkhead are now in. Radar mounted, sliding door installed with mahogany header to hide the top track, gunnel storage doors, toilet room, nave lights, cuddy windows are now all installed.
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Man, you've been busy! LOTS of detail work! Really ... a piece of art! :D :D :D
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Are you going to the boat show? Man I want to see your boat. Outstanding.
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Are you going to the boat show? Man I want to see your boat. Outstanding.
Thank you. Yes I will be there, I have a water spot along one of the docks. I'm looking forward to meeting everyone and seeing different boats.
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Here's a few inside photos
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Looks great!
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So cool to see it come together, its going to be awesome boat!
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Thanks for the compliments! Got her on the trailer today. had to build a ramp with pallets to get the trailer up to the right height. Then just cranked the winch and pushed with the forklift. Still have a good solid week of finishing odds and ends.
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Nice job getting it on the trailer. Your extended tongue, how much longer is it? Loaded mine today and I think I am going to need more room also.
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I have the same trailer as you and Rbob. Did Sandy ask you for any pictures or elevations, or any supplemental info? He did from me. I believe my trailer is slightly modified/lengthened, but I’m not sure. Looks like some sort of roller support will be needed to protect the bottom at the bow with this trailer/boat combo
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I have the same trailer as you and Rbob. Did Sandy ask you for any pictures or elevations, or any supplemental info? He did from me. I believe my trailer is slightly modified/lengthened, but I’m not sure. Looks like some sort of roller support will be needed to protect the bottom at the bow with this trailer/boat combo
If I raise my bunks I should be ok without the front roller. The bunks are in the lowest position. My advise with these trailers is when you order it have them move the main bunks to the highest position or do it when you get the trailer.
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Nice job getting it on the trailer. Your extended tongue, how much longer is it? Loaded mine today and I think I am going to need more room also.
Here are all my specks
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I should have bought mine when you did. I’m paying almost 4000$ dollars more. Everything keeps going up and up. I will raise the bunks before I put the boat on.
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I should have bought mine when you did. I’m paying almost 4000$ dollars more. Everything keeps going up and up. I will raise the bunks before I put the boat on.
WOW that's a HUGE increase!!!
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I should have bought mine when you did. I’m paying almost 4000$ dollars more. Everything keeps going up and up. I will raise the bunks before I put the boat on.
A tip, take off the nuts and put anti seize on everything that you think you will be adjusting.
Just unscrewing one of my bolts ruined it, went to town and bought a couple more and glad I did because I wrecked another. Most of the bolts are not very tight so they came off easy.
Stainless is "sticky"
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Wow, I'll be doing some adjustments thanks for the heads up
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Very nice , can't wait to see how it performs.
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Wow, I'll be doing some adjustments thanks for the heads up
I am looking into a Keel roller, maybe another crossmember and move the target bunks forward or add short ones. Mine is awful close to the front crossmember.
It looks like you have some kind of guard up front, something you added?
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I consulted with the manufacturer of my trailer, he shipped me some taller front bunk supports because my boat was sitting low towards the front. My boat was close to hitting the front cross member on my trailer until I lifted the front bunks and leveled the keel, now it's not even close. I still need to do some micro adjustments, but gonna wait until I put the boat in the water to do those. The anti-sieze idea is a good one, thanks Rbob...
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Wow, I'll be doing some adjustments thanks for the heads up
I am looking into a Keel roller, maybe another crossmember and move the target bunks forward or add short ones. Mine is awful close to the front crossmember.
I saw a very clever keel roller on the other website. Was kind of like a upside down triangle. A pivot bolt at the bottom and rollers at the other corners. The pivot was off center and woul flop down in the back when no weight was on it. When the boat contacted the first roller it would also lift the bow until it came to rest on both. Keeping her away from the crossmember.
It looks like you have some kind of guard up front, something you added?
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Wow, I'll be doing some adjustments thanks for the heads up
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It looks like you have some kind of guard up front, something you added?
it was just a 2x6 with a grove in it so the keel would slide up over the front cross member. needs a bow roller or adjust my bunks up
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I see. I wish the main bunks were longer (afterthought). I will look into the bow roller also.
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OK this was the scariest part for me. I am not nor will I ever be good at electrical. I'm good with doing the electrical for boat itself. Not that it's pretty but it is labeled and it will work. All the shore power, smart charging different type of batteries, inverters to make AC all that stuff is way over my head. So I had someone come in that knows what their doing to install it all. All pre-wired for future plug and play solar panels, monitors both types of batteries via Digi read out or Bluetooth. It also detects if there is any weird voltage in the marina, I forget whats its called. I just want it done right.
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Good move hiring it done, less stress for all.
I see Battleborn, those are awesome batteries!
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Yes I heard they are good batteries, they better be at $900 each.
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Cha-Ching!
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Both of you guys have enough power to do some real camping. You have enough to run the essentials and keep your beer cold.
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Both of you guys have enough power to do some real camping. You have enough to run the essentials and keep your beer cold.
Keeping the beer cold and ice for the Pendelton is a priority :)
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Looking amazing, Chuck. Nice work all the way around. I haven't checked in for a while but I'm pluggin away on mine and will be flipping the hull soon. I'm really looking forward to January when I can focus on the build full time. Also looking forward to seeing this thing on the water in September at Port Townsend. I'll have a few questions on your electronics as well. Safe travels and good luck getting her in the water.
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Looking amazing, Chuck. Nice work all the way around. I haven't checked in for a while but I'm pluggin away on mine and will be flipping the hull soon. I'm really looking forward to January when I can focus on the build full time. Also looking forward to seeing this thing on the water in September at Port Townsend. I'll have a few questions on your electronics as well. Safe travels and good luck getting her in the water.
Thanks for the comments Randy. I've been watching yours too, love the videos. Boats looking good just keep plugin away. The whole boat show fell apart. They were going to raft up a lot of the boats with people crawling from one to the next. Not gona happen! I think everyone pulled out
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Been doing lots of odd's and ends. Got the antenna's mounted and the radio working. I decided to go ahead and add solar panels now rater than wait. She's now ready to live totally off grid if I wanted to. Finished hanging all the cabinet doors and drawers, mounted all door pull hardware throughout the boat, got the toilet room door on with all the fresh water plumbed. The list goes on & on :) Taking the Boat to Eugene to get its one of 2 motors. They will also hook up all the electronics an make sure they are all talking to one another. I'm also installing a Garmin Reactor with smart pump auto pilot. So exciting!!!
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Looking awesome Chuck... How many watts of panels did you install?
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Looking awesome Chuck... How many watts of panels did you install?
Thanks, 330 watts. The thing is made to stick right on the roof and you can walk on it. It seems really durable.
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I see some good things happening in this electrical system! Glad to see the ELCI for protection of shore power input, which a lot of people miss and don't understand. I'd like to comment on the solar install, since I am a solar designer and installer and have designed several systems for boats now.
Your single solar panel is almost certainly going to have partial shade at any point in the day from the radar dome, anchor light mast, or either of your tall radio antennas. If that shade goes all the way across the panel, shading any portion of the entire width, production will drop, potentially to zero, in the whole panel. At the least, the entire panel's production will be reduced. For this reason, I always design for two panels, one SB and one port, as far back from the radar dome as feasible. Each panel gets its own charge controller. The sun will only shade one of the panels, leaving the other panel to have full production. If more solar is desired and you can go further back on the roof, add a full-width panel aft of the first two, again with its own charge controller.
Good luck, this is a fun project to watch!
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I see some good things happening in this electrical system! Glad to see the ELCI for protection of shore power input, which a lot of people miss and don't understand. I'd like to comment on the solar install, since I am a solar designer and installer and have designed several systems for boats now.
Your single solar panel is almost certainly going to have partial shade at any point in the day from the radar dome, anchor light mast, or either of your tall radio antennas. If that shade goes all the way across the panel, shading any portion of the entire width, production will drop, potentially to zero, in the whole panel. At the least, the entire panel's production will be reduced. For this reason, I always design for two panels, one SB and one port, as far back from the radar dome as feasible. Each panel gets its own charge controller. The sun will only shade one of the panels, leaving the other panel to have full production. If more solar is desired and you can go further back on the roof, add a full-width panel aft of the first two, again with its own charge controller.
Good luck, this is a fun project to watch!
Well I know squat about solar:) My guy that did all the hard electrical stuff (inverter ect)also supplied the solar panel. Yes he did mention all those things and I understand. Hopefully since I only needed 200 watts the other 130 watts will help, don't really know. The reason I have it all forward is because when I need that solar power the most on extended trips I will more than likely have a small dingy up on the back half of the roof so there ya go. Where it is at was my only choice.
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You put the panels in the right place, there's no other choice because of the dinghy - same as I've designed for others and done for myself. And you'll certainly get benefit from the solar. It's just that two separate smaller panels in the same place on a boat with the radar arch, etc. ends up producing much more than a single panel of about equal power because of the shading issues. That's the only point I'm making.
Onward! Can't wait to see it splash.
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You put the panels in the right place, there's no other choice because of the dinghy - same as I've designed for others and done for myself. And you'll certainly get benefit from the solar. It's just that two separate smaller panels in the same place on a boat with the radar arch, etc. ends up producing much more than a single panel of about equal power because of the shading issues. That's the only point I'm making.
Onward! Can't wait to see it splash.
Oh I get it now. Shows you how little I know about that stuff. That's is one thing my solar guy did not mention or I didn't pick up on what he was saying. I had that opportunity to go that direction. It's good that when he showed up he had 2 different panels 1@200 watts & 1@330 watts. Originally I ordered the 200 but since he had the larger one I went with it. At least I won that coin toss LOL!!!!
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Chuck, Did your guy wire the entire boat or just the charging system? Is he available for hire?
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Chuck, Did your guy wire the entire boat or just the charging system? Is he available for hire?
I wired all the boat stuff like bilges, washdown pumps, windless, thruster stuff like that. I had him come in and do all the shore power, smart charger, inverter all that more complicated stuff. He was a lot of help, he also knew about the shore power bad power thingy... lol Yes he is for hire and is what he does in all sorts of off road stuff including RV's, campers ect. He even came to me to do the work
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Maybe a sound bite of those horns! Very impressive setup all around.
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Maybe a sound bite of those horns! Very impressive setup all around.
LOL, I debated putting those horns on, they were bigger than I thought when I ordered them. They actually have a really cool sound, can't wait till some guy gets to close in the fog. I'm gona blast them!!! lol
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I saw your boat today while driving through Eugersey. Holy crap your Kodiak is HUGE! It looked awesome. It will be awesome to get a closer look
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I saw your boat today while driving through Eugersey. Holy crap your Kodiak is HUGE! It looked awesome. It will be awesome to get a closer look
Yea it was a little scary at first heading out of town. Not too far down the road it was no big deal to pull. My F350 handled it well
PARKED WAITING FOR A MOTOR
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Installing solar on Rosie was a challenge with all of the “toys” on deck that would shade it. I wound up making this mount off of the stern which also functions as a spool holder for stern ties (very popular in this part of the world). The mount has worked well and is out of the way. It integrates with an engine cover/table. An unexpected bonus is it acts like a small sail at anchor and helps keep her into the wind. Since installing it we notice she dances much less when we are on the hook. Go figure.
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Chuck, are you still waiting for the standard rotation motor to arrive? I’m curious about the wood blocks under the tongue? Do these trailers come with a tongue jack? I get to grab mine on Saturday
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Chuck, are you still waiting for the standard rotation motor to arrive? I’m curious about the wood blocks under the tongue? Do these trailers come with a tongue jack? I get to grab mine on Saturday
Yep only getting 1 motor, it will be interesting to get some performance numbers once it is broke in. Yea it comes with a decent tongue jack but I had way too much tongue weight for a few reasons. I had 1480 lbs. on the tongue and that was with 800 pounds of sandbags on the stern to try and offset the motors not being installed. My F350 handled it with ease but I need to adjust it. I also think I need to move the axels forward, once I get fuel in it would be worse. With both motors it will help but still think i need to move them forward. One other thing I would advise raising your main bunks up 3-4" the bow of the boat way up in front wants to hit the crossmember. I'll be raising mine soon
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Agreed, Raise the front and lower the rear for the best clearance.
Another thing with Venture trailer, do not rely on the plastic license plate holder to secure your license plate, lost mine after a 35 mile trip so ordered a aluminum one.
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Agreed, Raise the front and lower the rear for the best clearance.
Another thing with Venture trailer, do not rely on the plastic license plate holder to secure your license plate, lost mine after a 35 mile trip so ordered a aluminum one.
Hum, towed mine 120 miles to Eugene last week I wonder if it is still attached
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Chuck, are you still waiting for the standard rotation motor to arrive? I’m curious about the wood blocks under the tongue? Do these trailers come with a tongue jack? I get to grab mine on Saturday
Yep only getting 1 motor, it will be interesting to get some performance numbers once it is broke in. Yea it comes with a decent tongue jack but I had way too much tongue weight for a few reasons. I had 1480 lbs. on the tongue and that was with 800 pounds of sandbags on the stern to try and offset the motors not being installed. My F350 handled it with ease but I need to adjust it. I also think I need to move the axels forward, once I get fuel in it would be worse. With both motors it will help but still think i need to move them forward. One other thing I would advise raising your main bunks up 3-4" the bow of the boat way up in front wants to hit the crossmember. I'll be raising mine soon
Thanks for th explanation
Wow that’s a lot of to tongue weight. I guess I will find out how easy things are to adjust this weekend. Trailer pick up Saturday. It’s kinda been a bit of a pain in the ass.
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FIRST KODIAK SPLASH
I launched Izzy J on Wednesday I was by myself. As luck would have it my friend’s wife and 2 daughters just happened to be nearby, so they were my launch crew!!! They did great helping me out! It was pretty chaotic so we didn’t get a lot of pictures the ramp was busy. Long story but I didn’t get time to run her out in the bay, I went straight from the ramp to my slip. I had a few day’s work to do before she’s ready to venture out, most of it is done now. I’ll get back over this next weekend to finish up a few things then take her out and see what a single 140 can do on a 31 foot hull.
BTW The Bow Thruster Works Great
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Awesome! The boat looks great. Right at home!
Have you tried to get your inspection/OR numbers or the like yet? My wife has been worried it will be a pain in the butt
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Awesome! The boat looks great. Right at home!
Have you tried to get your inspection/OR numbers or the like yet? My wife has been worried it will be a pain in the butt
Thanks! I do have my temp registration but haven't got the OR numbers back yet. Inspection by the state or Coast Guard won't be an issue. I did have the Sheriff boat giving me the eye like what kind of boat is that.....lol
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Dude... hahaha... that's too great. Nice work Chuck! Congrats! I am waiting by to see the 140 report! :D :D :D Just tell those water cops that it's a kayak and they should just move on to the guys dumping their black tanks in the harbor a couple slips down...
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Congrats Chuck, that is so cool to see her on the water. Love the white motor (s)
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Wow Chuck, it looks like every detail worked out. Seeing your boat inspires me to get out and continue working on mine. I really want to see how she runs with the twins. I hope you can video the results of running on one engine too.
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Boat looks great! I know the marine deputies there very well and will put in a good word for you. Looking forward to video of the inaugural run.
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Thanks guys for all the nice comments!!!!
I didn’t get to work a bunch of numbers this weekend on the boat like I hoped. Not real sure what she weighs yet (I built heavy) but will figure out the weight when I go for my other motor. She’s a bit nose heavy right now, hoping the other motor will fix that up. She does plane at a mere 15 mph at 4200 RPM. I got right a 20 mph full throttle but could only get 5200 RPM because of the prop I have on, it’s a power prop. I suspect with the other motor and getting the correct props for twins I should see easily 35mph and suspect it will be more like 40+ mph. I did take a few hours to do a little trolling in the Yaquina Bay, boated 2 nice coho's but had to release them because they were wild. back over next weekend for more work & fun
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On plane on a single 140 at 4200rpm, that's not too shabby... Good to know in a pinch you won't necessarily have to plow back. Any idea yet when your second motor comes?
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Its great to hear you could get on plane with one motor, there is hope that mine will get up with a single 115 if the other has a problem. Getting your first fish in the boat had to be great too. You did great on your build so now its time to make us all green with envy with all the fish you post.
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On plane on a single 140 at 4200rpm, that's not too shabby... Good to know in a pinch you won't necessarily have to plow back. Any idea yet when your second motor comes?
I think its sitting off shore in one one of the hundreds of shipping containers waiting to be off loaded, I hope!!!!
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Its great to hear you could get on plane with one motor, there is hope that mine will get up with a single 115 if the other has a problem. Getting your first fish in the boat had to be great too. You did great on your build so now its time to make us all green with envy with all the fish you post.
Thanks Gary, you won't be far behind.
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I ordered a 200 suzuki on april 20th and just got word it should be here november or december... crazy to wait 7 or 8 months.
Great job on the Kodiak Chuck! I'm pulling some ideals off of ya.
--dave
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I ordered a 200 suzuki on april 20th and just got word it should be here november or december... crazy to wait 7 or 8 months.
Great job on the Kodiak Chuck! I'm pulling some ideals off of ya.
--dave
Thanks I do love her so far. Got my windshield wipers on this weekend and mounted the rest of the Fishfighter Sliding Rod holder system.
Yea my #2 motor is now 7 months so hopefully soon. Pull all the ideas ya want it's strongly encouraged:)
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Outstanding, very exciting to see another boat out there.
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Good news bad news. Good news is my second motor came in. Got it all installed ready to go get it wet. Hauled it from Eugene to Newport where I have my slip. Bad news is she still sits on the trailer and will most likely remain there until the first March. Today was my only day to break in the new motor and get some performance numbers. I had a few other reasons for not venturing out today let alone the Tsunami warning for the West Coast today:)
I have my house sitter all set-up and I'm heading south of the boarder to PV for 5 weeks to re-search a snow bird spot and the marinas for the future. So we are all going to have to wait for some performance numbers, SORRY :) Oh The bow thruster works perfect for anyone wanting to know
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Looks great!!
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Those motors look sweet!!!!
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That looks twice as good as the last time I saw it! Nice work Chuck! I was thinking about your boat tonight actually wondering how it was going to perform, etc. Sounds like we are going to have to wait, but the best things are worth waiting for. I will hold off on ordering a couple new motors for your report lol... Good luck on launch #2 and the new spot scope....
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That looks twice as good as the last time I saw it! Nice work Chuck! I was thinking about your boat tonight actually wondering how it was going to perform, etc. Sounds like we are going to have to wait, but the best things are worth waiting for. I will hold off on ordering a couple new motors for your report lol... Good luck on launch #2 and the new spot scope....
Thanks guys, Its going to kill me to wait but mexico will be a blast!!!
Jason: Just in-case you missed an earlier post. Single WOT @ 6000 RPM 23 MPH not bad for a single.
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Thanks for posting these pictures. Seeing the height of your motors confirms that I can make my transom just a little higher to get one of those nice ladder holes built in like you did. Your pictures inspire all of us to make more than just a fishing machine.
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Thanks for posting these pictures. Seeing the height of your motors confirms that I can make my transom just a little higher to get one of those nice ladder holes built in like you did. Your pictures inspire all of us to make more than just a fishing machine.
Yep that's exactly what I had to do!!
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Izzy J sitting in the shop getting last minute issues completed before getting her in the water for the first time with both motors. This coming Saturday she will be launched and will reside in her moorage until this November when I heard south to Puerto Vallarta for the winter. I haven't decided if I will go down on the Pacific side or the sea of Cortez yet. it will be an amazing trip. Should have some performance numbers next week sometime
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Izzy J sitting in the shop getting last minute issues completed before getting her in the water for the first time with both motors. This coming Saturday she will be launched and will reside in her moorage until this November when I heard south to Puerto Vallarta for the winter. I haven't decided if I will go down on the Pacific side or the sea of Cortez yet. it will be an amazing trip. Should have some performance numbers next week sometime
Looking forward to hearing your trial run results! And that trip! It'll be the longest ocean trip yet for a Great Alaskan :D You'll probably cross the Columbia bar and fish B10 before then too ...
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Izzy J sitting in the shop getting last minute issues completed before getting her in the water for the first time with both motors. This coming Saturday she will be launched and will reside in her moorage until this November when I heard south to Puerto Vallarta for the winter. I haven't decided if I will go down on the Pacific side or the sea of Cortez yet. it will be an amazing trip. Should have some performance numbers next week sometime
Looking forward to hearing your trial run results! And that trip! It'll be the longest ocean trip yet for a Great Alaskan :D You'll probably cross the Columbia bar and fish B10 before then too ...
Oh most definitely. I'm hoping to cruse the San Juan Islands this summer also for a week or so. Good prep work for doing the inside passage next year:)
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Finally had a chance to break-in my second motor. All numbers were taken with the motors trimmed up about 25% and was at the end of the day so I did not spend time trying to trim out for best performance. I also need to re-prop to a better fit now that both motors are on. I suspect overall top speed and MPG will improve. Overall I'm very happy with the performance, she handles very well. I'm still not sure what my boat weighs in at but she is not built light, she's pretty loaded up. I had 2 people on board 2 dogs and 70 gallons of fuel.
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She’s a beauty
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Improve? LOL ... Show me ONE OTHER high-speed, 31-1/2 foot boat that gets 2.5+ mpg at 21-23 mph! GAs that are 6-1/2 feet shorter, lighter, get only 1+ mpg better. Considering how much more boat YOU have, I'd say you're doing great!
Brian
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I think the fuel burn at 3500 is amazing and even 4,000 is amazing. Most of the time my speed has been around 20 mph in ocean waters.
Very well done!
Can you share what the prop specs are? We all are interested.
Sounds like you are wanting more pitch for the prop's
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Improve? LOL ... Show me ONE OTHER high-speed, 31-1/2 foot boat that gets 2.5+ mpg at 21-23 mph! GAs that are 6-1/2 feet shorter, lighter, get only 1+ mpg better. Considering how much more boat YOU have, I'd say you're doing great!
Brian
2.5 MPG is what I was hoping for!! Pretty darn good especially with the redundancy of twins!!!! Totally pleased with the results. Anytime my old Marlin 300 Grady White got even 1 mpg I was thrilled, 2.5 mpg is amazing. just want to get the best I can:) With 162 gallons onboard my range is 405 miles at 21 mph :)
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I think the fuel burn at 3500 is amazing and even 4,000 is amazing. Most of the time my speed has been around 20 mph in ocean waters.
Very well done!
Can you share what the prop specs are? We all are interested.
Sounds like you are wanting more pitch for the prop's
I forgot to get the prop info, I'll be back over this weekend and will post up the info
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Next time you are out please add numbers for 9 knots. My buddies with trawlers will be drooling.
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Yeah, and I'm hoping for an airborne jump shot off the top of a big wave, the props being the only thing in the water!
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Seems like when you build a boat she's always wanting more of your time. Just love working on the boat in the slip :) My tools for the days adventure. Installing cuddy reading lights, working on the propane locker, installing rod racks inside the WH
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I really like the table with the lip around the edges. So cool to see your boat getting better all the time.
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I really like the table with the lip around the edges. So cool to see your boat getting better all the time.
Thanks, I had some Corian left over so I used it on all counters
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Dang, I am envious. Boat envy is a good motivator.
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Hi Chuck , My twins are in and I need to choose the props. Please tell me what you are using now and your max RPM.
Thanks
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Hi Chuck , My twins are in and I need to choose the props. Please tell me what you are using now and your max RPM.
Thanks
I'm currently running 14x22 on my Suzuki 140hp. Started out with 14x18. I'm going to 14x20 should be perfect for my set-up. Max RPM is 6000
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Thanks, for the prop info. I saw it last week but could not reply with my phone.
I will start with the 20 and hope for the best.
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Did you put trim tabs on your boat, if so how big are they? if not, are you ok without them? With twins on a back of a Kodiak, how big of tabs do you think you good fit on the beast.
Thanks for input.
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Did you put trim tabs on your boat, if so how big are they? if not, are you ok without them? With twins on a back of a Kodiak, how big of tabs do you think you good fit on the beast.
Thanks for input.
My plan was to wait until I got a chance to use the boat before deciding on trim tabs. I was pretty sure I would want them. As it turns out I'm glad I waited, so far I have not needed them at all, not even once. My last 2 factory offshore boats both had trim tabs and I used them often. The GA continues to impress me. As to what would fit I'm not sure she's moored at the moment. Maybe the attached photo will help you out.
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I've spent 10 full days working on Izzy J getting her ready for a 1200 mile trip from San Diego to Puerto Vallarta via the pacific side of Baja. Here are some recent photos of some of my add's. So far I have installed, captain and co pilot folding foot rest, holding bracket for my handheld remote for the auto pilot, 40" wide Black Oak combo flood/spot light can't believe how well it works, new 12V refrigerator, got the propone locker finished to hookup the 2 burner stove in the WH and the BBQ quick connect bracket for out on the transom, 65 gal. live well & 2 new through holes to make it work, 1400 gpm pump for the tank, TACO 16' outriggers, red/white WH lights, installed an external Garmin heading sensor to fine tune the Garmin auto pilot, installed a much better compass on the helm, finished all the curtains on the inside, got a 10' dingy for on top with 6hp 4-stroke motor and a ton on small items. Got my GPS all set-up to monitor my fuel and mpg at all times, gas stops are 350 plus miles apart. Leaving March 2nd out of San Diego, we will have good moonlight most of the way down. planning on about a 10-12 days on the water. We plan on fishing from Turtle Bay all the way to Cobo San Lucas.
Almost forgot I also installed an intermittent wiper switch that would be wonderful in the PNW not sure how much it will be used in PV:)
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Chuck, which Autopilot did you get?
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Chuck, which Autopilot did you get?
The Garmin Reactor with smart pump, seems like it was around 5k for all of it including the smaller controller on the helm.
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I really like the table with the lip around the edges. So cool to see your boat getting better all the time.
Galley tables should have a lip ... it captures spills! Some put in a gap to allow draining into the companionway, but I have mixed feelings about that.
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What a journey that's going to be! What type of bait tank did you end up going with?
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What a journey that's going to be! What type of bait tank did you end up going with?
Got it from West Coast Bait Tanks down in the San Diego area. It's a nice tank and reasonably priced. 65 gal. tank, blue interior, including blue light for $1500 bucks. I provided my own lid and pump.
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I have to laugh, it sounds like you’ve been peaking over my shoulder. I’ve been doing almost the same things for my trip in the other direction. Heading to Alaska out of Bellingham the first of may. Would like some info on your light bar if you have it.
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I have to laugh, it sounds like you’ve been peaking over my shoulder. I’ve been doing almost the same things for my trip in the other direction. Heading to Alaska out of Bellingham the first of may. Would like some info on your light bar if you have it.
Originally I was going to do the inside passage this summer. Then PV just sort of happened, long story!! Look up Black oak night vision (next on my wish list) they are great people. Mine was right at 1k but they are having a Flash Sale if ya act fast it's 20% off. Ask for Randy, he said if I called with-in a week to order the night vision he might extend the discount... https://www.blackoakled.com/collections/marine-led-light-bars/products/40-inch-marine-series
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That is what I have. I absolutely love it!
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That is what I have. I absolutely love it!
Which one do you have the Light or Night Vision?
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My response was directed to the autopilot. Sorry for the confusion
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Todd I too have that auto pilot. Love it. Quite and user friendly
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My response was directed to the autopilot. Sorry for the confusion
I agree the auto pilot runs my twins well. I have that Garmin 1242 XSV chart plotter, I added an external heading sensor that really helps fine tune everything. The internal antenna works but being this is such a long trip and we will be cruising at night a lot I wanted my charts better accuracy making my actual position on the plotter dead on. There are a lot of obstacles just under the surface down that way so I felt it was worth the cost.
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I went with the 1243xsv. I hadn’t considered the external heading sensor. So far I’m impressed with its accuracy. We will see if I still feel that way after my trip to Channel Islands. Your trip sounds awesome!
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I went with the 1243xsv. I hadn’t considered the external heading sensor. So far I’m impressed with its accuracy. We will see if I still feel that way after my trip to Channel Islands. Your trip sounds awesome!
We will both absolutely have an amazing adventure!!! To build your own boat capable of this type of adventure then actually make the trip is OUTSTANDING!!!
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I went with the 1243xsv. I hadn’t considered the external heading sensor. So far I’m impressed with its accuracy. We will see if I still feel that way after my trip to Channel Islands. Your trip sounds awesome!
We will both absolutely have an amazing adventure!!! To build your own boat capable of this type of adventure then actually make the trip is OUTSTANDING!!!
Post or describe your route, where the stops are, fuel contingencies etc? (Too much work, I know but a map w/route would be cool)
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looking forward to your adventure pics for sure. The Channel Islands were my primary home hanging on a hook for a couple of decades. I haven't been to Mexico for a very long time....Enjoy !
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I went with the 1243xsv. I hadn’t considered the external heading sensor. So far I’m impressed with its accuracy. We will see if I still feel that way after my trip to Channel Islands. Your trip sounds awesome!
We will both absolutely have an amazing adventure!!! To build your own boat capable of this type of adventure then actually make the trip is OUTSTANDING!!!
Post or describe your route, where the stops are, fuel contingencies etc? (Too much work, I know but a map w/route would be cool)
I already have my routes entered into the Garmin Active Captain App, I will see if thee is someway to print out the route!
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Love all the upgrades and the fishing gear is off the charts!
I'm curious - there's talk recently on this thread about adding an exterior heading sensor to fine-tune position on the charts. Are you actually talking about an exterior GPS antenna? I've not heard of using a second heading sensor mounted outside but if there's such a thing I'm hoping to learn something!
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Love all the upgrades and the fishing gear is off the charts!
I'm curious - there's talk recently on this thread about adding an exterior heading sensor to fine-tune position on the charts. Are you actually talking about an exterior GPS antenna? I've not heard of using a second heading sensor mounted outside but if there's such a thing I'm hoping to learn something!
Some call it an external antenna also which it is. From my understanding the external GPS 24xd helps in several ways. If ya think about it the built-in antenna is under the roof and inside of our helm under even more obstructions of the sky. See below from Garmin
Description
Multi-Band GNSS
Multi-band GNSS provides location accuracy to within 1 meter to compatible marine multifunction displays, instrument displays and autopilots.
Magnetic Heading
The magnetic heading sensor provides accuracy to within 3 degrees, stabilizing charts, radar overlay and MARPA even at slow speeds.
High-Sensitivity GPS
Fast 10 Hz position update rates provide high-sensitivity position, velocity and time data.
Expanded GNSS Support
GPS 24xd provides access to four key global navigation satellite systems (GPS, Galileo1, GLONASS and BeiDou1) to more accurately track in challenging conditions than GPS alone.
Multi-SBAS Compatible
Multi-SBAS compatibility corrects signal measurement errors and provides information about the accuracy, integrity, continuity and availability of its signals.
Mounting Options
Installation is easy with under-deck, pole and surface-mount options.
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Thanks for the info Chuck, got it.
That's a combo GPS antenna with a built-in heading sensor all in one unit.
It's most useful as a very good GPS antenna, and is definitely useful as a heading sensor but for autopilot systems it's recommended to get a more precise heading sensor and mount it down low toward the centerline of the boat. I'm not dissing it at all, just recommending a separate heading sensor for autopilot. Often the heading sensor comes in an autopilot kit.
Here's a review of the unit with more explanation:
https://panbo.com/garmin-gps-24xd-inexpensive-heading-data-to-stabilize-charts-radar-and-ais/ (https://panbo.com/garmin-gps-24xd-inexpensive-heading-data-to-stabilize-charts-radar-and-ais/)
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Thanks for the info Chuck, got it.
That's a combo GPS antenna with a built-in heading sensor all in one unit.
It's most useful as a very good GPS antenna, and is definitely useful as a heading sensor but for autopilot systems it's recommended to get a more precise heading sensor and mount it down low toward the centerline of the boat. I'm not dissing it at all, just recommending a separate heading sensor for autopilot. Often the heading sensor comes in an autopilot kit.
Here's a review of the unit with more explanation:
https://panbo.com/garmin-gps-24xd-inexpensive-heading-data-to-stabilize-charts-radar-and-ais/ (https://panbo.com/garmin-gps-24xd-inexpensive-heading-data-to-stabilize-charts-radar-and-ais/)
That's the one I got the 24XD, I was informed by Garmin this new unit for my size would do all the dedicated heading sensor would do.
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Chuck and I each have the exact same auto pilot system. The heading sensor or CCU (course control unit) in the case of Garmin is part of the package. Mine is mounted Aft of the forward helm about 16" below the sheer deck. It is pretty close to the center of the boat. Its the black box with the green LED.
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All great work guys. I’m getting close to operational but still a few months out. If things are going well I plan to visit Puget Sound in August and see how she works. I’ll be watching your trips as well.
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Todd J thanks for the clarification, that was my understanding, that there's a dedicated heading sensor as part of the package that goes down low in the cabin. That's what I was wanting to verify!
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Todd J thanks for the clarification, that was my understanding, that there's a dedicated heading sensor as part of the package that goes down low in the cabin. That's what I was wanting to verify!
I hate to admit it but I just realized I have ne idea where mine is located, probably the only thing on my boat I don't know:) I had the place I got my Suzuki's from was a Garmin dealer so I just had them install it all at the same time. It was a surprise when I saw where they located the pump for the auto pilot. Guess I better track some wires and see where it's at.
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I had the pleasure today to meet Chuck and check out his new ride. I've included a couple of photos of this afternoon's visit. These were taken at Shelter Island, San Diego. Tomorrow Chuck takes off for an epic trip down south. Smooth sailing and following seas! What a beautiful boat and how nice to have met Chuck.
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Has anyone heard from Chuck? I wonder how trip is going.
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I got an mpg report from him after he left, on March 14th I think, but no news since ... or expected. He's in sat-phone country, no cell, no internet... I'll ping him and see if I can get an update.
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Chuck just pulled up to the fuel dock in Cabo San Lucas, approx. 900 miles into his trip! Destination is in the red circle:
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Here's the accurate route as reported by his Garmin:
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Yahoo!!!
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I just got invited to visit some friends who moved to Lo de Marcos, just up the coast from Puerto Vallarta, next Jan/Feb.....hopefully I can meet up with Chuck and finally see his boat!
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If all goes well, then tomorrow, he runs to Mazatlan ahead of coming weather, then will stay until conditions permit ... then the last leg to Puerto Vallarta. He should be there in 2 or 3 days... faster than he predicted by a day or two.
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Chuck is now in Mazatlan ... leaving for Puerto Vallarta in about an hour ... he's 1173 miles into the trip and going well! More when I get more ... Destination: Puerto Vallarta (lower-right in pic).
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This is great advertising for your design Brian! 8) 8) 8)
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... And DONE!! Congratulations to Chuck Mazzola on completing his ONE THOUSAND THREE HUNDRED AND EIGHTY mile trip into Mexico on his big Great Alaskan Kodiak! Easy schmeeezy... 😁😁😁 That's a LOT of wide open ocean exposure!
Made the trip in NINE days ... ahead of schedule!
PS: Love those Garmin maps and tracking!
PPS: Now ... Who's up to bat for going from Seattle to Kodiak, across the Gulf of Alaska? Hmmm? Who? Dan? Team Lindy?
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This is really pretty incredible. Chuck is the man. The weather down here has been pretty ripper, although it's probably just another day on the water for all you northerners. 1300+ miles of it sounds really daunting, I can't even imagine. :) Pretty freaking cool.
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This is really pretty incredible. Chuck is the man. The weather down here has been pretty ripper, although it's probably just another day on the water for all you northerners. 1300+ miles of it sounds really daunting, I can't even imagine. :) Pretty freaking cool.
Exactly what I told him when he arrived ... You da MAN!!
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Way to go Chuck big water, big trip! Team Lindy is hoping for Latuya Bay this summer, Dan may cross the gulf, and Djeffery is heading north this summer. These boats are getting around!
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Congrats, gives me even more confidence to make my trip north. Going to be a fun summer for glacier boats of Alaska owners.
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I think Chuck busted some serious records ... Does anyone know of another home-built boat builder or design that has performed a bigger trip than Chuck's nearly-1400 mile, all open ocean exposure, trip?? It's the longest and most-exposed trip that I've heard about ... makes those racing across the Dixon Entrance (SE Alaska) look like weenies in comparison ...
bd
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Agree,
Having sailed bot across Dixon entrance and the West Coast of California, Dixon entrance usually is a pond compared to the California Coast. For those heading North, remember to keep your eye on Queen Chartlet sound also. Wind and waves can woop up there big time.
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Brian a friend on Maui talks of her old boyfriend in the 70s who built a stitch-n-glue tri-hull and circumnavigated it - built the whole thing himself from scratch in 2-3 years. There are a lot of stories of home-built boats that have done big voyages, including the epic Homer to Iliamna to False Pass and back to Homer trip in a Tolman Widebody a couple decades ago - and THAT stretch of water north and east of Kodiak is a serious navigational challenge!! That does nothing to diminish what the GA is capable of, nor of how great these builds are, nor Chuck's recent awesome voyage....just a nod to the salty and motivated centuries of sailors before us.
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Brian a friend on Maui talks of her old boyfriend in the 70s who built a stitch-n-glue tri-hull and circumnavigated it - built the whole thing himself from scratch in 2-3 years. There are a lot of stories of home-built boats that have done big voyages, including the epic Homer to Iliamna to False Pass and back to Homer trip in a Tolman Widebody a couple decades ago - and THAT stretch of water north and east of Kodiak is a serious navigational challenge!! That does nothing to diminish what the GA is capable of, nor of how great these builds are, nor Chuck's recent awesome voyage....just a nod to the salty and motivated centuries of sailors before us.
Pretty amazing stuff ... :)
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I’m having secret fantasies of doing the Northwest Passage in mine. ;)
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I’m having secret fantasies of doing the Northwest Passage in mine. ;)
Go fast and bring a coat!
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I’m having secret fantasies of doing the Northwest Passage in mine. ;)
… and lots of gas!
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I was admiring your work in the ?cost? thread. I noticed you have an interesting looking floor mount for your dinette. Do you have a link or a product description? I have a flush mount and it keeps getting broken.
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I just found it online. I might have been searching for more commercial type applications. I do remember have to look a bit before I found what I wanted