If you look back through this build thread, you'll see I opted for a Panther electric steering solution for my kicker. I could not use any kind of tie-bar/cable system because my kicker is too far horizontally back from the main engine. The Panther worked OK for a couple years. It was slow and a bit clunky but got the job done. Due to its fussiness I didn't use the kicker much. On my last trip, I finally decided to fire up the kicker just to give it an hour or so of use. Fired right up, but I had no steering. After some troubleshooting, I determined the steering mechanism was fried. Back home after tearing into it I verified that, so it lasted barely 3 seasons of light use due to saltwater corrosion. I decided to install hydraulic steering on the kicker with a pair of 3-way valves to select either main engine or kicker. Just completed that installation and I am completely satisfied. Should have done this to start with. The valves are in a convenient location yet out of the way, and now I can steer the kicker from the main helm without having the main engine flopping back and forth as it would with a tie bar. It's a huge upgrade and I'm sure I'll use the kicker a lot more now.
Got the Bay Star steering cylinder at LFS after a bit of study to get the right one. Got the valves, hose, fittings, and for $75, rented the fitting crimp tool at the local Parker store (Motion and Flow Control Products). The valves are 1/4" because 3/8" valves were not available (supply chain again) - this had me worried they would restrict the flow too much. There is a bit more resistance, but the system is still very smooth and I foresee no problem. In the process I took the time to clean up the clunky routing of the hoses to the main engine - the engine shop did a pretty average job. It was also nice to take the time to completely bleed the system with new oil. The system is now much tighter than the engine shop did it and now I have the setup and knowledge to keep it that way. Very satisfying project.
Photo 1: Overview of the hydraulic crimper, the cabinet where the 3-way valves are located.
Photo 2: Closeup of the crimper completing a crimp
Photo 3: How to purge air out of a hydraulic system. Suspend a bottle with bottom cut out, keep it at least ~ 1/4 full through the whole process, and return the fluid from the bleeder lines through a series of tees and inexpensive vinyl tubing. Remember to run your autopilot pump if you have one!
Photo 4: The line coming forward from the series of tees linking all the bleeder valves on both engines.
Photo 5: The 3-way valves are panel-mount versions so easily attached to a piece of aluminum I bent and secured to the top of the cabinet.
Photo 6: Main engine
Photo 7: Kicker on a hard port turn
Photo 8: Kicker on a hard SB turn
