Glacier Boats of Alaska - Builder's Forums
Great Alaskan and Boat Building => General Discussion about the Great Alaskan => Topic started by: DougM on January 12, 2022, 01:36:20 PM
-
I joined this forum in January 2018 and after 4 years of reading posts, studying designs and dreaming, I finally started my build. I purchased my marine plywood from Homestead Hardwoods in Vickery, Ohio, which is a 300 mile roundtrip from my home. I went with Hydrotek Meranti plywood. It seems to be of good quality,
one piece exterior veneers and I haven't found any voids in the core. I am currently researching bow thrusters to see if I have enough room for one. I found one with a 5" diameter tunnel that needs a minimum of 5" from the waterline to the top of the tunnel, it will be tight. Brian, would it be possible for you to show me a cross section print of the hull at 81" aft of the bow point? I would be greatly appreciative.
-
I would recommend taking a close look at Chuck Mazzola's bow-thruster selection and installation and compare to yours. It's a tight fit. In any case, here's a cross-section at 81" aft of the bow point. Notice the doubled lines on the bottom panels ... the blue outline is the hull exterior and the green (doubled) line is the inner face when using 5/8" thick bottom panels ... the original bottom thickness design. We switched to 3/4" just to make it easier to find plywood. All dimensions are in inches.
-
Greetings from Northern Indiana, there is a major snowstorm that is predicted to hit with estimates from 12" to 18" with wind. If I'm lucky, I will be snowbound in the barn for a couple of days so I can get some work done on my build. I am starting my transom and I have a question on the LVL widths. I am going with a cutout dimension of 25-1/8" from the keel which will leave 17-7/16" from the cutout to the chine flat (9-1/2" LVL + 7-1/2" LVL = 17"). I have to rip the 7-1/2" (lower) LVL out of a 9-1/2" LVL, should I rip it at 7-1/2" which will make it 7/16" short of the chine flat or should I rip it so it is flush with the chine flat on the transom profile?
-
The original design assumes you've got 7-1/2" LVL for the lower motor board, but if you are ripping it from 9-1/2" LVL, that's fine. Just don't forget that the transom leans aft at 14 degrees. If you want the lower motor board truly flush on the chine flat, you'll want to cut it with a 14 degree bevel (longer face forward, aft face matches chine flat on transom). Personally, I like having the gap to fill ... stronger than wood, especially if you use your glass fiber/wood/silica epoxy mix that's used for transom seams.
-
Here is how I got my LVLs home, didn't have access to a longer trailer. No harm done, the wife laughed at me but I'm used to that.
-
I have a near identical set up to that. I like to run the overhang over the top of the trailer front rail and into the center of the bed of the truck. Leave the max legal overhang off the back. This makes the stick out a stick in. There is almost no way you can the stick in portion can contact the tow vehicle. Even when backin up
-
I am working on the layout of my wheelhouse and need some advise. I plan on having my eye level at 76" above the waterline, for both seated and standing positions. When looking forward, my line of sight to the waterline would be 29' from the bow of the boat, 40' if I go with a bulwark. Is that too great a distance for safety? I'm not sure what is an acceptable distance or requirement. These are the distances looking directly forward over the point of the bow, I know the distance will be less if I look a few degrees left or right.
-
I am working on the layout of my wheelhouse and need some advise. I plan on having my eye level at 76" above the waterline, for both seated and standing positions. When looking forward, my line of sight to the waterline would be 29' from the bow of the boat, 40' if I go with a bulwark. Is that too great a distance for safety? I'm not sure what is an acceptable distance or requirement. These are the distances looking directly forward over the point of the bow, I know the distance will be less if I look a few degrees left or right.
Your eye level seems above average (72" above waterline more typ.). The forward distance to where you see water over the point of the bow is generally around 34' or so ... what you say is about right. But keep in mind that you can see the water much closer on either side of the bow point and the things you want to see (boats, docks etc) are generally above the water and easily seen. Waterlogged wood or mostly-sunken debris are never easy to see. For the size of these boats, the visibility is not bad.
-
I am building a 28' GA with a euro transom and my shelves are 311", instead of 335" for a standard transom. Should I use the 26' shelf mold locations from sheet 010X or should I go with the 28' shelf mold location for mold #2 and move shelf #1 (16-1/16") forward from the back end of my shelves? I'm not sure which way to go, or even if it maters.
-
I am building a 28' GA with a euro transom and my shelves are 311", instead of 335" for a standard transom. Should I use the 26' shelf mold locations from sheet 010X or should I go with the 28' shelf mold location for mold #2 and move shelf #1 (16-1/16") forward from the back end of my shelves? I'm not sure which way to go, or even if it maters.
I would use the shelf lofting for a 28' boat, but cut the stern ends off to meet your euro-transom requirements. I'd probably use the original shelf molds and locations, then when the shelves are in place, build a custom shelf mold for where the euro transom (forward or 'fake' transom) starts ... then cut off the shelves and remove the original aft-most shelf mold. The new mold is now the aft-most shelf. Let the original sheer shape be.
-
I am getting ready to tape my chine seams and would like to make sure everything is correct before I proceed. I have the bottom assembly laying, keel up, on (5) 2 x 4's on top of my building jig and have taped my keel seam. 2 x 4 locations are: (#1)-92" aft of bow point on bottom assembly, (#2)-128" from bow point, (#3)-188" from BP, (#4)-248" from BP and (#5)-308" from BP. The overall length of my bottom assembly is 314". The bottom assembly is resting on 2 x 4's (#1) & (#5). The gaps between the other 2 x 4's and the chine are as follows: (#2) = 1/2", (#3) = 1-5/8" and (#4) = 1-1/2". (The gaps are the same on both sides). Is this chine contour correct? As always, thank you for your help.
-
The order of events is that you assembly bottom panels and chine flats while the bottom panel assembly is right-side up, including the 'critical dimension' spreader up front. That establishes the shape of the boat bottom. Then several 2x4s are laid across the boat, clamped or screwed to the chine flats, so that when you lift the bottom panel assembly out of the molds, the shape of the bottom panel assembly is maintained (close 'nuf). These 2x4s STAY on the bottom panel assembly until the eventual placement of the assembly onto the stringers/stem/transom. When the assembly is placed onto the stringers/stem/transom, then it'll settle into final shape - almost. Now, back at the stage where you're at, e.g. building exterior seams along the fairbody and inner (towards center of boat) chine flat seams, the bottom panel is just laying on the jig - more accurately, the 2x4s that you installed above are laying on the jig, and the 2x4s are still clamped or screwed to the chine flats and holding the bottom panel in the correct shape (close 'nuf). Note that you may need to remove/replace screws or clamps to get them out of the way of the glass and epoxy work along the chine's seam. Note also that while you may fill the fairbody joint from bow to stern, the seams are only constructed from the stern forward to just short of where the bottom panel thickness goes from 3/4" to 3/8" (waiting for the second layer of 3/8" ply at the bow).
Make sense? Exact 2x4 locations are not important but should be holding the bottom panel assembly in shape - again, close 'nuf. Final shape of the bottom panel assembly is achieved when the assembly is laid on the stringers/stem/transom AND you've got good straight 2x4s clamped or screwed to the chine flats ahead of the stern - you want a flat, straight run, on the aft chine flats, AND the assembly has been screwed to the stringers. Right now, when building the exterior bottom panel assembly seams, close is close enough.
-
Thanks for the help, Brian. Would it be acceptable to use LVL material for the stem?
-
I will chime in, yes LVL is just fine, no knots!
Cant wait to see your build come along.
-
Thanks for the help, Brian. Would it be acceptable to use LVL material for the stem?
LVL for the stem is fine ... many have already done it :)
-
Thanks for the help, Brian. Would it be acceptable to use LVL material for the stem?
I use LVL in my kits for everything that is not plywood. it cost a lot more but worth it IMHO!!!
-
I am placing the stringers in position onto the temporary framing and through the slots in the transom. I made a mark at 21' 5-1/2" (for a 28' boat) from the pointed tip of the stringers onto the deck side (flat edge). If I align this mark where the outer face of the transom meets the flat side of the stringers, the pointed tips of my stringers are approximately 57-1/2" aft of the bow tip. I'm checking to see if I am in the ballpark.
-
Any updates on this project? The 28' Standard GA is a real sweet spot in terms of boat length ... is the project still alive? Inquiring minds have a need to know ... :D
-
Brian, I am still working on my 28' Prince Rupert but I am waaaay behind schedule. Not enough hours in the day. I hope to be installing the spray rails this weekend. Are the strakes required if I don't plan on beaching my boat? Do they improve the boat tracking or handling?
I haven't made up my mind yet on hard bottom paint or graphite impregnated epoxy. I tested some graphite epoxy on some scrap plywood and it seemed to scratch easily, what is your preference?
-
Nope ... you can leave the 3 bottom strakes off if you aren't going to be beaching the boat. As for bottom paint, the general rule is a) if your boat's a trailer sailer then go with paint or graphite-impregnated epoxy, b) if your boat will just spend up to 6 weeks or so in a slip each year, then use hard anti-fouling paint/coating, and c) if you will keep your boat in a slip all the time, then go the soft ablative anti-fouling instead. The hard anti-fouling can be refreshed as needed, and the same goes for the black graphite bottom. Soft anti-fouling is generally re-applied annually, but that depends on where your boat is kept (how much growth and shellfish attachment occurs each year). Also be aware that anti-fouling is often a regulated product and some bays have rules on what you can and cannot use, usually do the presence of sensitive marine life in the area, ex) commercial oyster beds or designated 'marine aquariums'.
-
In addition to Brian's useful guidelines, a graphite hull will be a slight bit more efficient than one with soft ablative anti-foul bottom paint. It's hard and slick.
I have graphite and even after carefully breaking through up to an inch of ice, beaching carefully several times on rounded rocks and/or sand, and generally some decent use, it's still in excellent shape. I've been impressed with its durability. I did ding it once in one small spot and it was easy to patch with Quick Fair and touch up. Highly recommended if you're not in a slip.