1
Blood on the Deck! (And Other Grand Adventures!) / Re: Back from Neah Bay
« on: August 26, 2025, 02:52:55 PM »
Nice haul, way to get after it! I love those black bass, some of my favorite fish.
Glacier Boats of Alaska Builder's Forums
News:
Like us! 
See https://www.GlacierBoats.com for more info!!!
Quit wishin' and go fishin'!
Terms & Conditions: Usage of this site conveys acceptance of our terms and conditions - See Terms & Conditions sticky post in the Announcements board
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
2
Projects - Glacier Boats of Alaska boat projects / Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« on: August 18, 2025, 11:03:27 AM »
JOV, I can stay out indefinitely, limited only by fuel. My trips tend to be 2-5 day outings centered around fishing, shrimping, and crabbing, and as such I'm often doing short runs to pull pots or go fish. On these short runs, I'm charging the house battery with about 35 amps through the B2B charger, and since LFP batteries have high charge acceptance rate up to about 90% state of charge, the system gets recharged quickly. Then the solar adds to that while on the hook at anchorages.
It's important to note that with an AGM or flooded lead acid house battery system, these recharge rates are not possible, so the LFP battery really aids in making things more convenient. That said, the LFP battery requires a lot more design and installation care and overall knowledge to install and operate correctly, so on some of my jobs for Boat Systems, I have recommended the client go AGM because it keeps things a lot simpler technically and it is a better match to some use/operator scenarios.
It's important to note that with an AGM or flooded lead acid house battery system, these recharge rates are not possible, so the LFP battery really aids in making things more convenient. That said, the LFP battery requires a lot more design and installation care and overall knowledge to install and operate correctly, so on some of my jobs for Boat Systems, I have recommended the client go AGM because it keeps things a lot simpler technically and it is a better match to some use/operator scenarios.
3
Projects - Glacier Boats of Alaska boat projects / Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« on: August 05, 2025, 08:28:38 PM »
Here is the new start battery system, also with an MRBF fuse mounted directly to the battery. Every single wire on this boat has overcurrent protection. The 100A breaker is for the anchor winch. A 100A nominal rated anchor winch motor is too large for a 105 AH lithium battery to run (startup current on a hard pull could easily trip the BMS's overcurrent protection), so I typically install these on quality AGM start batteries. The engine would always be running when the anchor winch is being used, and the charge from my 250HP Suzuki at idle is over 20A, greatly reducing the load on the start battery such that it is a non-issue.
4
Projects - Glacier Boats of Alaska boat projects / Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« on: August 05, 2025, 08:23:39 PM »
Finally installed a lithium house battery system. Moved the house battery system from the battery box just aft of the aft cabin bulkhead to under the helm seat (there are no venting issues with LFP batteries). This allowed me to move the AGM start battery from the transom locker to the afore-mentioned vacated battery box, moving a lot of weight forward. This improved my trim to the point where I can now sleep comfortably with my head aft, whereas before that was uncomfortable.
This is an Epoch Essentials 105 AH battery, which is all I need because my electrical system is DC-only with the exception of a small, infrequently used 500W inverter. As of August 1, 2025, ABYC published updates of E-11 and E-13, which greatly clarify the requirements for lithium battery installations, and this installation meets all those requirements. This system has proper AIC protection in the form of an MRBF fuse (class T fuses are only required over 200 AH), a master switch that shuts off ALL loads and is accessible, a selector switch that allows the house panel to be run from the start battery in case of lithium BMS shutdown, a battery to battery charger that protects the outboard charging system from BMS shutdown while charging, and monitoring via a Victron Cerbo and the Epoch app. The solar charge controllers and battery to battery charger are both Victron, and thus easily custom-programmed to charge the battery per Epoch's specs. I can now pull pots without running the engine and basically never worry about running the battery down. It's a huge improvement on several levels.
This is an Epoch Essentials 105 AH battery, which is all I need because my electrical system is DC-only with the exception of a small, infrequently used 500W inverter. As of August 1, 2025, ABYC published updates of E-11 and E-13, which greatly clarify the requirements for lithium battery installations, and this installation meets all those requirements. This system has proper AIC protection in the form of an MRBF fuse (class T fuses are only required over 200 AH), a master switch that shuts off ALL loads and is accessible, a selector switch that allows the house panel to be run from the start battery in case of lithium BMS shutdown, a battery to battery charger that protects the outboard charging system from BMS shutdown while charging, and monitoring via a Victron Cerbo and the Epoch app. The solar charge controllers and battery to battery charger are both Victron, and thus easily custom-programmed to charge the battery per Epoch's specs. I can now pull pots without running the engine and basically never worry about running the battery down. It's a huge improvement on several levels.
5
Boat Systems - Electrical, Electronics, Motors, Plumbing & Tankage etc / Re: Electrical question
« on: July 29, 2025, 03:25:57 PM »
I find running wire in conduit horribly inconvenient, both for installation and future troubleshooting/additions. Instead, I use pieces of PVC electrical conduit or ABS pipe, cut roughly as long as its diameter, with ends smoothed, placed every 12-18" along the main wire runs under the gunnel and other locations. On smaller runs or where this is impractical, use zip tie bases and zip ties. All wires must be supported every 18" or less per ABYC E-11. Remember to size generously so large transducer, radar, and other connectors will fit through.
Plan your wire runs out as well as you can and start by drilling all the holes you need through bulkheads, then smooth the edges and coat. I coat with thickened epoxy in high-exposure or critical areas, or a couple layers of paint in other areas.
It takes a fair bit of time to plan the routes, drill/smooth/coat a few dozen holes, lay out wire support, and lay out the electrical equipment. Done correctly, installing the equipment and the wiring will go smoothly and fairly quick. Done poorly, your wiring job will look bad, it will take twice as long as it should and be frustrating. This is a good stage to really think things through and plan your layout.
If wire runs need additional protection, use split loom, which is sold in a wide variety of sizes.
Plan your wire runs out as well as you can and start by drilling all the holes you need through bulkheads, then smooth the edges and coat. I coat with thickened epoxy in high-exposure or critical areas, or a couple layers of paint in other areas.
It takes a fair bit of time to plan the routes, drill/smooth/coat a few dozen holes, lay out wire support, and lay out the electrical equipment. Done correctly, installing the equipment and the wiring will go smoothly and fairly quick. Done poorly, your wiring job will look bad, it will take twice as long as it should and be frustrating. This is a good stage to really think things through and plan your layout.
If wire runs need additional protection, use split loom, which is sold in a wide variety of sizes.
6
Projects - Glacier Boats of Alaska boat projects / Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« on: May 04, 2025, 10:58:35 PM »
Glad your trim is getting better!
Fuel vapors in the cabin: this is an important problem to resolve, and something more design attention is needed on for a lot of boats I work on - I'm really sensitive to it. No way to know exactly, but here are some places to look: bilge limber holes allowing vapor to enter the cabin - I have my most forward bilge limber hole at about mid-cabin plugged, and this helps a lot. In relation to this, I've still only got one bilge pump in the back and finally got my act together to install a second bilge pump and it will be forward of this limber hole, so if I nail a rock or log and have water entering from the front, this bilge pump will kick in.
Secondly, try to seal all wire/hose runs coming into the cabin from areas that "communicate" air-wise with the bilge.
Finally, it sounds like you have a blower mounted - if so, be sure it's getting its suction air from as low in the bilge area as possible, and that there is a clear path for it to draw fresh air from outside, say, the cuddy portlites, into the forward bilge, and out....that brings fresh air into the cabin and exhausts the air out the back.....assuming your blower is mounted far aft. Good luck!
Fuel vapors in the cabin: this is an important problem to resolve, and something more design attention is needed on for a lot of boats I work on - I'm really sensitive to it. No way to know exactly, but here are some places to look: bilge limber holes allowing vapor to enter the cabin - I have my most forward bilge limber hole at about mid-cabin plugged, and this helps a lot. In relation to this, I've still only got one bilge pump in the back and finally got my act together to install a second bilge pump and it will be forward of this limber hole, so if I nail a rock or log and have water entering from the front, this bilge pump will kick in.
Secondly, try to seal all wire/hose runs coming into the cabin from areas that "communicate" air-wise with the bilge.
Finally, it sounds like you have a blower mounted - if so, be sure it's getting its suction air from as low in the bilge area as possible, and that there is a clear path for it to draw fresh air from outside, say, the cuddy portlites, into the forward bilge, and out....that brings fresh air into the cabin and exhausts the air out the back.....assuming your blower is mounted far aft. Good luck!
7
Projects - Glacier Boats of Alaska boat projects / Re: GA28 in Bakersfield California
« on: May 04, 2025, 10:42:12 PM »
African mahogany has low bending strength and is quite flexible (ie not stiff) - it's actually a poor choice for a structural member, especially for the cuddy roof that gets walked on and often hopped onto from the roof. If you oversize it will probably "work" but might flex more than you like. I have never heard of it being used for a structural member like this - it is typically only used for trim or furniture-making. Oak, maple, or similarly strong hardwoods would be a much better choice. Sorry for the downer, just wanted you to know in case you were unaware.
8
Blog, New Designs Discussion / Re: POLL: Which Great Alaskan version do YOU want?
« on: April 12, 2025, 12:33:26 PM »
So much depends to me on materials. With my foam-core plywood cabin and cabinetry, plus okoume plywood, I'm lighter than many, and the 28 ft standard is perfect.
On the Kodiak, I'm also torn. As-is, it's optimized nicely it seems for a fishing machine with twins, baitwell on the back deck, etc. However, there is definitely a case for the Kodiak camper special. So if I had to vote, we already have the standard Kodiak, so I'd vote for you to tweak things for a Kodiak camper special at 30 ft.
On the Kodiak, I'm also torn. As-is, it's optimized nicely it seems for a fishing machine with twins, baitwell on the back deck, etc. However, there is definitely a case for the Kodiak camper special. So if I had to vote, we already have the standard Kodiak, so I'd vote for you to tweak things for a Kodiak camper special at 30 ft.
9
Projects - Glacier Boats of Alaska boat projects / Re: 13 Bananas New Jersey Kodiak
« on: April 02, 2025, 09:35:58 PM »
Rbob, the correct term to be aware of is a battery's "charge acceptance rate" CAR.
AGM and flooded lead acid batteries would have a relatively high CAR up to about 50-60% state of charge, then their ability to accept high charge current diminishes rapidly. This essentially "throttles" the charging current coming from the outboard. Given that a start battery is rarely less than 90% state of charge, the alternator almost never has to work full out. This is a good thing for any engine with a standard automotive type alternator with internal rectifier/regulator that is air cooled, because it means the alternator is only running "wide open" for a short amount of time and thus never overheats.
However, with lithium house batteries many of us have, the CAR is very high up to about 90=95% state of charge, meaning they WILL demand high current for sustained long periods of time from the alternator (via battery to battery charger or ACR or whatever), meaning the alternator now is working hard for a long period of time, and if it's a automotive air-cooled type, it WILL overheat unless you have somehow designed to limit the charge current to about 50% of the alternator's nameplate rating. You'll see this advice commonly for diesel engine cruisers, and it applies to the Merc outboards IF the alternators really have an air-cooled rectifier/regulator like auto styles do. That's what I'm trying to find out.
AGM and flooded lead acid batteries would have a relatively high CAR up to about 50-60% state of charge, then their ability to accept high charge current diminishes rapidly. This essentially "throttles" the charging current coming from the outboard. Given that a start battery is rarely less than 90% state of charge, the alternator almost never has to work full out. This is a good thing for any engine with a standard automotive type alternator with internal rectifier/regulator that is air cooled, because it means the alternator is only running "wide open" for a short amount of time and thus never overheats.
However, with lithium house batteries many of us have, the CAR is very high up to about 90=95% state of charge, meaning they WILL demand high current for sustained long periods of time from the alternator (via battery to battery charger or ACR or whatever), meaning the alternator now is working hard for a long period of time, and if it's a automotive air-cooled type, it WILL overheat unless you have somehow designed to limit the charge current to about 50% of the alternator's nameplate rating. You'll see this advice commonly for diesel engine cruisers, and it applies to the Merc outboards IF the alternators really have an air-cooled rectifier/regulator like auto styles do. That's what I'm trying to find out.
10
Projects - Glacier Boats of Alaska boat projects / Re: 13 Bananas New Jersey Kodiak
« on: April 02, 2025, 03:21:00 PM »
Good to see the alternator specs. However, note that they specify an AGM battery. Any AGM battery begins throttling its charge acceptance when it's at around 60% state of charge or so, meaning the battery will actually throttle the charge current coming from the alternator. These specs do nothing to tell us whether the alternators are "hot rated" meaning they can put out these currents continuously for hours, or if they are typical auto-style internally regulated types that must be de-rated ~ 50% for continuous operation (gyros, bait tank pumps/aerators, electronics, etc.). I don't have any Mercs on any of my clients' boats so far, so I've been unmotivated to do the research to figure this out, just waving a yellow flag to be sure to have this figured out if Mercs are in the picture.
11
Boat Systems - Electrical, Electronics, Motors, Plumbing & Tankage etc / Re: fuel tanks
« on: April 02, 2025, 03:09:36 PM »
Although custom aluminum tanks are popular and can be a good choice, there is a strong case to be made for rotomolded plastic tanks like Moeller and others make. With the plastic tanks, there are zero corrosion issues and they are relatively light weight.
If you have custom aluminum tanks made, be sure to get the vent location at least 6-8" away from the fill fitting, get the tanks properly baffled, figure out how you're going to mount them, account for an air gap ALL around the tank to help prevent corrosion, and any cushions/pads that are adhered to the tank need to have a FULL complete coating of adhesive such that no air gaps are between the pad and the tank...again to prevent corrosion issues. Also figure your fuel sender location carefully (middle of tank is probably best but may vary for each boat), figure your fuel line runs to get the direction of the tank fittings correct, etc. Finally, make sure to have a bonding lug provided so you can attach an 8 AWG bonding wire from the tank to your boat's common negative electrical bus.
If you have custom aluminum tanks made, be sure to get the vent location at least 6-8" away from the fill fitting, get the tanks properly baffled, figure out how you're going to mount them, account for an air gap ALL around the tank to help prevent corrosion, and any cushions/pads that are adhered to the tank need to have a FULL complete coating of adhesive such that no air gaps are between the pad and the tank...again to prevent corrosion issues. Also figure your fuel sender location carefully (middle of tank is probably best but may vary for each boat), figure your fuel line runs to get the direction of the tank fittings correct, etc. Finally, make sure to have a bonding lug provided so you can attach an 8 AWG bonding wire from the tank to your boat's common negative electrical bus.
12
Boat Systems - Electrical, Electronics, Motors, Plumbing & Tankage etc / Re: Solar vs charger
« on: April 02, 2025, 02:59:49 PM »
Just seeing this. Highly recommend Victron Smart MPPT controllers, one for each solar panel. Their bluetooth app, Victron Connect, is excellent. Go into the custom settings and set the various voltages exactly as the battery manual recommends. No real problem having multiple charging sources, although with solar, I see no reason to have the battery charger plugged in when the boat is sitting on the trailer or at the dock. And if the battery you're keeping charged is lithium, I'd recommend NOT keeping a charger on it while it's in storage/not being used - LFP batteries prefer to be kept in a partial state of charge.
13
Projects - Glacier Boats of Alaska boat projects / Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« on: March 11, 2025, 03:53:18 PM »
Great discussion and practical experience on COG issues. Just to add to it, with my large but light cabin (foam core instead of plywood), dual belly tanks with largest in stern under the back deck, heavy-ish Suzuki 250 and kicker, and start battery in transom locker, I'm a bit too stern heavy.
So my project here when things warm up in AK is going to be to replace my 7 year old, 55 lb, 85 AH AGM house battery with a 105 AH, 22 lb lithium battery moved to just inside the aft cabin bulkhead in a little-used locker, which will allow me to move my ~ 40 lb start battery to my current house battery locker position just aft of the aft cabin bulkhead, with a bunch of rewiring to include moving the battery to battery charger out of the bilge/transom area to the cabin. This will help lighten the transom and move that weight to the ~ COG and optimize trim..
So while I applaud Brian's plan to clean his plans up a bit, I personally would probably stick with the original GA design at 28 ft long for all the accomodations I like to have, and encourage anyone that wants a head (I don't have one) and other heavier accomodations to go to the Kodiak. The original design for me allows for a very comfortable 4-5 day trip boat with two people and I love getting around 3 nmpg while doing it and going 25 knots!
So my project here when things warm up in AK is going to be to replace my 7 year old, 55 lb, 85 AH AGM house battery with a 105 AH, 22 lb lithium battery moved to just inside the aft cabin bulkhead in a little-used locker, which will allow me to move my ~ 40 lb start battery to my current house battery locker position just aft of the aft cabin bulkhead, with a bunch of rewiring to include moving the battery to battery charger out of the bilge/transom area to the cabin. This will help lighten the transom and move that weight to the ~ COG and optimize trim..
So while I applaud Brian's plan to clean his plans up a bit, I personally would probably stick with the original GA design at 28 ft long for all the accomodations I like to have, and encourage anyone that wants a head (I don't have one) and other heavier accomodations to go to the Kodiak. The original design for me allows for a very comfortable 4-5 day trip boat with two people and I love getting around 3 nmpg while doing it and going 25 knots!
14
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Knife valves for scuppers?
« on: February 12, 2025, 10:52:42 PM »
So Todd it looks like your scuppers are close-ish to the centerline of the boat, rather than the far outsides (port & SB) of the deck? I wonder how they would be if they were to the far outsides... I always find that the boat is either slightly or fairly listing one side or the other, and the water is always on one side or the other of the back deck, so I'm betting that makes a difference, just unsure how much. I've never seen them installed close to the CL like that - always to the far outsides or close to it. Anyway, interesting details this is bringing up.
Brian, yeah, they have changed their designs quite a lot since early 2000s.....they have grown tremendously and now do all their own very advanced engineering/marine architecture in-house. Also, their 26-ft boats might have smaller scuppers - their boats go up in volume a LOT from 26 to 29.
Brian, yeah, they have changed their designs quite a lot since early 2000s.....they have grown tremendously and now do all their own very advanced engineering/marine architecture in-house. Also, their 26-ft boats might have smaller scuppers - their boats go up in volume a LOT from 26 to 29.
15
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Knife valves for scuppers?
« on: February 12, 2025, 02:22:13 PM »
Here is a 29 ft Bay Weld boat shown on their current website. Two quite large, either 3 or 4" scuppers on EACH side for a total of 4. Other of their boats have large oval scuppers. So my experience with Bay Weld boats is very different than Brian's - they tend to take scuppers very seriously in fact. Additionally, their floor hatches have a seal so they do a decent job of keeping water out of the bilge - far easier to do in aluminum than it is with plywood. But then again this boat only manages 1 nmpg at cruise, so we're close to 3x the mileage! But man, these are seriously well-designed and well-built boats that can operate year-round. Good place to pick up design ideas.
I, too, have had water go over the cabin and into the back deck on a day with 30+ knot winds and a 5 ft storm sea in a concentrated channel for about 20-30 minutes. It wasn't much water, but enough to make me glad I had the scuppers for sure.
I, too, have had water go over the cabin and into the back deck on a day with 30+ knot winds and a 5 ft storm sea in a concentrated channel for about 20-30 minutes. It wasn't much water, but enough to make me glad I had the scuppers for sure.