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Messages - Brian.Dixon

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1
I’m late to this party, but as a young 20 something year old I saw this thread and have to try and save everyone here some extra work and grief. YouTube allows you to group videos together using a hashtag, for example in the search bar you can look up ‘#speedboatrace’ and you will find a long series of people of no relation 3D printing small toy boats for record times, and the same can be done here. I believe if there were to be an official tag for these boats created and agreed upon it would save Brian a lot of trouble trying to re upload videos all onto one place. It’s such an easier solution I created this account as a long time guest just to try and save people from giving themselves extra work.

I say do both!  The more press the boat gets the better!

#GreatAlaskan


2
Ok.  I want it to get what it needs without dragging behind the Boat while on plane.  Your answer helps.  Thank you

It's OK to mount it higher as though it were a main... or use a kicker bracket that scissors up to raise the kicker out of the water.


3

That should work as long as the holes are in the right place so you can drill through the epoxy fill without cutting into the wood.  If you DO hit wood, then soak that end grain with epoxy until it won't take more, then sand and wipe, then rub a silica-thickened peanut-butter thick layer of epoxy over the exposed wood ... cure, sand, final coat of epoxy.  You can always use removable (REMOVABLE - can be sliced with a putty knife!) caulk as back-up.

4
Hi Ron ... I enjoyed your post!  Welcome aboard, and let us know if you have any questions along the way.

I like your family-oriented approach .. I know of cases where kids and wives got neglected 'for the temporary boat build' and divorces occurred.  Glad to see you are taking the opposite approach and wanting to make it into a memory and relationship thing instead of a "gotta get it done and go fishing ... at any cost!" project.  That's fine for the single blokes out there, but families warrant special consideration.

I would say ... start as soon as you're comfortable.  Make it the 'experience' and 'memory' thing with the family and don't worry about when it gets in the water.  I might try to set an outside completion date as being before the "kids are out and gone, and can't remember who their dear ol' dad is".

Re your 6' 10" height ... if it were me, I'd keep the pilothouse deck right on the stringers (gives 6'4" headroom) but then raise the pilot house roof 6+ inches to get at least 6'10" headroom ... and add a bulwark on the f'w'd 2/3rds of the hull to help keep the aesthetics in proportion.  Go ahead and raise the cockpit sole for more under-deck room and better self-bailing characteristics if you want, but provide a sill at the bottom of the house door to prevent water draining into the pilothouse - since the interior deck is now lower.  Otherwise, go at it and make it yours!

Brian


5

Good question.  Technically ... you could do that.  But if the kicker runs a little deep, who cares?  At the speeds which the kicker will drive you, there's virtually no change in performance either way.  Not so with an offset main, but the kicker is no biggy.  I'd lean towards doing whatever's easiest for linking the main and kicker for steerage and call it good.


6
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: sizing kicker motor
« on: July 20, 2021, 07:17:38 PM »

The main downside, in my way of thinking, of having an overly-large kicker is if you need it for really slow trolling ... king salmon, Kokanee, etc.  If you prop it for a slow troll, it'll go slower at WOT too.  With today's fuel-inject 2-strokes and high efficiency 4-strokes, many choose to troll with the main ... it all depends I guess.  Trade-offs...

7

What a beaut!  Super nice boat!


8

You can never be too careful with painting ... it's the very WORST thing if it goes wrong!


9

It's all that owner's pride of workmanship kicking in ... it makes all projects take twice as long!  ;D


10

Haha ... I have no idea what a "gimble hole" is, nor why it is listed at 3".  I need to look that up and clarify the docs ... there are "limber holes", which I like to make at 15/16" ID so a standard boat plug will fit.  There are scuppers, which I like to make at least 3" or so and suggest using pipe plugs (with new stainless hardware).  There is a bilge drain, anchor well drains, and dry well drains.  And there are ventilation for fuel chamber if using plastic (requirements vary).  Did I miss anything?


11

Now that's what I call pretty!!!


12
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: sizing kicker motor
« on: July 11, 2021, 11:36:40 AM »

For 26-ft and larger versions, I'd recommend no less than a 9.9 high-thrust ... and 15 is probably ideal.  Larger is OK, but unnecessary ... unless it's large enough to put the boat on plane, e.g. 100 hp, then the extra horsepower won't help too much.  Close 'nuf...  15+ horsepower will help keep the nose into the wind and waves if necessary, although kickers are never more than 'adequate' as an emergency motor for getting home.  They're great as a nice quiet, small, trolling motor too.  Go with twin mains if you're concerned ...




13
I cannot speak directly to your question, but some of us have built our fuel tank compartment to not communicate with bilge.   I think there may have been some changes to the dwngs since Dan B made some really great suggestions re: fuel systems in these boats.

I agree with this.  It's best to keep fuel fumes from creeping forward under the deck (or other structure) where it can build up and explode if an ignition source occurs, e.g. a sparky non-ignition-proof switch or a loose connection/terminator somewhere.  It's also best to use all ignition-proof electrical components too.  Finally, recall that ABYC standards say that the ONLY electrical connections allowed in a fuel compartment are for grounding/bonding and fuel level sensors, period.  It's OK for wires to pass through, though, if there are no connection/terminals in the fuel compartment - but make sure they are protected against wearing through their insulation due to vibration.


14
I'm thinking for my next build might be a flat bottom boat with a pump for the river. Just not sure a plywood bottom is the best idea, this might be where an aluminum boat might be better.....Can't believe I just said that hahaha

Couple layers of Kevlar cloth and a little gluvit and it would be slipper and bulletproof. You don’t need no stinking aluminum! Says the guy with an aluminum boat.

Put the Kevlar (Aramid fiber) INSIDE the bottom panels ... when the wood is flat ... in thin layers (build up a couple of 5-oz kevlar layers).  The kevlar has extremely high tensile strength and prevents punctures through the hull.  You apply light kevlar in layers on a flat surface because it's lower density than epoxy and will float.  Consider a coat of epoxy to start, letting it cure 'to sticky' before rolling on the kevlar too.  These methods will help you build up kevlar without bubbles or poor saturation.   Do NOT try to apply the kevlar to what will be the outside of plywood that'll be bent, and do NOT try to apply kevlar to curved surfaces, over sharp corners etc.  Consider that kevlar, when damage, can get fuzzy and absorb water ... which may cause delamination if/when the water gets frozen.  Kevlar is NOT an abrasion-resistance layer due to this ... use el cheapo fiberglass for that.  Kevlar is best finished with at least a light layer of fiberglass over it, e.g. to protect it from abrasion and to guarantee it's all sealed-in.

On the OUTSIDE of the boat, use 2 or 3 layers of 10-oz glass ... but after applying each, lightly sand w/80-grit and coat again, repeat until the glass weave if filled and perfectly smooth, THEN add the next layer of 10-oz glass.  Put a couple of coats of graphited epoxy on last.  I used this system on my Don Hill Driftboat and it was bullet-proof.  The outside glass/epoxy layers are a full 1/8" thick and I never gouged past even the first layer ... when hitting bad, sharp-edged, boulders in the S. Santiam river in Oregon.  You don't need no steenking UHMW!

Brian

15
28x40 shop should just about hold the next Great Alaskan “McKinley” 36’x118” Master Edition with jacuzzi and stateroom. Gitterdun.

LOL  ;D ;D ;D ;D 8) ::)

Partly because I insisted in optimizing the Great Alaskan until there was nothing more that could be done, the design process took a couple of years (of my 'spare' ... haha ... time).  I probably won't be designing any more boats in that size range ... wait, hmmmm, maybe that Bartender double-ender needs some competition?

bd


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