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Messages - Brian.Dixon

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My 6.5 CM would've shortened that distance ... :)


Love to see hunting pix, even if shy one elk :)

Welcome back!


Looks pretty good to me, Chuck.  Important to note for others that your stringers are ... what, 11-1/2" tall instead of the usual 9-1/2"?  Good way to get extra room under the deck so you can put in bigger fuel tanks.

Introductions - Are you new here? Say hello! / Re: It's Official
« on: September 19, 2020, 08:08:42 AM »

Awesome and congrats!  Hope you share with us a lot as your build progresses!



Tadaaa... it is now a BOAT!  Fantastic progress!


I think it's turning out fantastic.  The finish looks perfect from here!


That does help, thanks Brian. So, just to understand right in my feeble brain, when I make adjustments they are done on a lever basically right? IE if I put an extra 100 lbs on the back edge of the boat, and want to balance that with weight half way between the center and front of the boat I need to add double the weight in that location? So to realistically offset 300 extra pounds on the back of the boat in any manner other than hanging weight off of the pulpit it's going to be in the ballpark of probably 500 to a thousand extra pounds somewhere forward of c/g? This sounds like it's probably not really very realistic given the other amenities I want to add like a bait tank in the middle of the cockpit that can hold a hundred gallons of water, etc. Perhaps when the time comes I can go put this in the water and play around with some ballast before I pull the trigger, although I don't think that that's really going to surface any porpoising issues.

Yes, like a teeter totter around the center of gravity (noting that the center of buoyancy is just forward of the CG, hence the 1-1/2" bow-up trim if in a perfect world).  The CG on a 26-footer is about 9' forward of where the main deck strikes the transom ... add a few inches for longer boats.  Close 'nuf.  If you figure that's the fulcrum and the motor/bracket combo has a CG about a foot behind the transom .... it's more or less 10 feet from the motor weight to the CG (fulcrum).  To balance extra weight in the motor, say 100# in our example, you'd want ... 200# at 5' forward of the CG ... or 100# at 10' forward of the CG ... or 67# at 15' forward of the CG.  In other words, the forward and aft 'moment arms' are kept equal.  The aft moment arm is the extra 100# times 10', or 1000 lb-ft.  The forward moment arm of the 200# example is 200# times the 5', or ... tadaaa ... 1000 lb-ft.  It's just a big floaty teeter-totter... If you know where the typical CG is, then the rest falls out naturally ...


From a strength perspective, the transom can handle the weight - the big issue is the movement of the center of gravity too far aft (gonna be a porpoising issue).  Since I hate ballast, and there's no good way to add weight forward, e.g. fuel burns off, water runs out, it's best to try to work within the weight limits.  Note that the manual gives transom limits for a 26-footer (725# plus weight of brackets etc ... derated more as the bracket gets longer).

BUT if you are building longer, say 28' or so, the transom weight limit can probably go an extra 100# without issue, likely even more if you are building a 'water camping special' boat with plenty of accommodations and appliances, or even if you will likely have 2 or 3 extra people in the boat on most trips.

I allow 1000-1100# for a sterndrive, but that's with a big V6 or V8 (etc) inside the transom.

Since boats, like most people as they age, tend to gain weight in the stern ... more gear, bigger ice boxes, more friends, more stuff on the transom etc.  It's best to start out a little on the conservative side.

Hope this helps...  8)



Wow ... nice job on the bulwark concept!  Looks awesome too!  Can't wait to go fishin' in that beast!  :D



I've heard good things about Alexseal and the no-tip finish turning out great.  I didn't know it needed a special additive though.  Looking forward to your results and pix ...


The additive is brand new according to Andy on boatworks today, and he described it as a 'game changer' for DIY, so I figured I would give it a shot. :)



I've heard good things about Alexseal and the no-tip finish turning out great.  I didn't know it needed a special additive though.  Looking forward to your results and pix ...



I think it looks pretty good too.  I like the 404/414 (used to be 'Barrier Kote') ... it hides a thousand sins!


Trimmed the glass this morning and put on coat of epoxy and peel-ply, ran out of peel-ply about 1/2 way down starboard side. 

Taking a break for 10 days, going to do some archery elk hunting.   Still need to put a fillet on the inside edge of the curb visor and some glass on the front inside of the visor, I am looking forward to gluing on a roof and painting.

You deserve a break ... good luck on the elk hunt


Good eye ... I think that'll look great.  Looks like you've got some width behind the last window too, if you need a place to drain the roof off to the side ...


Nice work on the fairing ... really professional!

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