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1
I thought about that and might give it a try if this seems too crazy tight. When I test fit it I was using deck screws to hold it while my brother muscled it into place, and only the last one pulled so I think it might be ok if I can get it into shape, but some inner cuts would probably go a long way towards reducing how much spring back force there is.

2
I made all of the spray rails and keel guard out of IPE on my boat.  I had to slice it down to 3/8 thick to get the bends I needed.  I would like to have the same style rub rails you are making now.  If you find some great trick other than lapping thin slices together, like I did on my spray rails, I sure would like to know.
P.S.  I have had no issue cutting IPE with carbide tools.

So far I have no trick, I am just brute forcing it into place. I think I am going to try to use some clamps to coerce the front into place, and then I am hoping they won't pop out using threaded studs every 6". The pieces I am using are standard s4s decking in depth, so probably around 5/8" to 3/4" thick? I might have a quarter inch I could plane off to still keep the holes above the studs, but I think it would be close so hoping I can make this work. I wish I would have done my strakes and centerline in ipe, that's a great idea for durability and beaching... I already knicked the center one down to the wood when I was putting the boat on the trailer and had to patch it, if it was ipe I would have not really cared much about that if I even glassed it to begin with.

3
I have been finally pushing forward my ipe rub rails. I got the port one almost installed, just need to figure out how to get the bend around the bow. The stuff is really hard to bend. I also had big anxiety about turning my hard fought sheer line into swiss cheese, I just had to keep telling myself it's for the greater good. I was able to bury 50 threaded posts on the port side and epoxy oversized holes, and they seem solid. I still need to cap this side with a thin veneer of ipe and fair it, but I am happy with the result so far. I am hoping to have these done by next week.


4
Blood on the Deck! (And Other Grand Adventures!) / Re: Lobster fishing
« on: October 06, 2021, 09:23:31 AM »
Nice bugs! Where'd you go?

5
On plane on a single 140 at 4200rpm, that's not too shabby... Good to know in a pinch you won't necessarily have to plow back. Any idea yet when your second motor comes?

6
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Hull Numbers
« on: September 30, 2021, 01:31:23 PM »
I just ordered my registration numbers for both sides through rbob's service, it was under $35 for a pair shipped. That service is great, you can design your own basically however you see fit. Looks like it will work very well. Thanks all for the ideas.

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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Hull Numbers
« on: September 30, 2021, 09:23:34 AM »
Great link and solution, thanks rbob...

8
The 1289 has a lower viscosity, so flows much more readily. It's great for wetting out any glass, tape or panels or other. It just takes a loooooong time to set up, but hey, who's in a hurry here? :) I use it much more often in the summer but like you, when I need glass to take epoxy readily it's much much better than the 1285 (tape is a great use case for sure).

9
I have used fiberglass supply once or twice, they seem like they are on it customer service-wise, my orders arrived pretty fast. I largely source my supplies locally though so I am the worst one to comment here. A kit from Chuck is a great way to start, I wish I had my panels cut by a cnc... Good luck with your build, just get started!

10
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Hull Numbers
« on: September 29, 2021, 08:32:35 PM »
Stickers would probably be the easiest if I could find them in a font that I liked... I will take a look around. I was just wondering if my boat would look too ghetto with stickers, I suppose if it did I could just peel them off and paint? \_(ツ)_/

11
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Hull Numbers
« on: September 28, 2021, 04:25:48 PM »
Hmm.. that's an interesting idea. I could maybe also just print the number in a stencil font and use a scalpel to cut out a stencil. Are you thinking spray paint with that or using boat paint? I don't think I could make boat paint not run everywhere when I was applying it...

12
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Hull Numbers
« on: September 28, 2021, 02:22:44 PM »
I misspoke - I was referring to the registration numbers on either side of the bow...

13
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Hull Numbers
« on: September 28, 2021, 01:03:42 PM »
What are people going to be doing for hull id numbers? Paint? Decal letters? Something else?

14
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Fairing the hull
« on: September 28, 2021, 09:51:25 AM »
Quick Fair 2 part fairing compound. Easy to sand dries in 3-5 hours ready to sand. It's a little pricey but well worth it


DING DING DING!  We have a winner!  I love Quick Fair ....



It's great stuff unless you have to do as much fairing as I did... My kids' college fund would have disappeared quickly...

15
Keep in mind when you put your outboard on the CG will slide further aft, I put a huge anchor puller on the bow of mine plus have a lot of things sitting in the cuddy, once I pinned the outboard on the back the tongue weight seemed to get in line (800lbs vs 1280), at least enough to hopefully let me pull it with my current truck in the meantime. On my trailer I could move the whole boat aft by a couple feet as well, I think I would definitely do that before I started moving the axles. I think Chuck put all of his house electrical in the cuddy as well, plus his boat is just a tank, so I would think that unless someone is building really heavy they aren't going to have a 1400 lb tongue weight.  I also had to keep my rear bunks as high as they came, because the boat barely clears the metal over the wheels. My manufacturer had to send me longer pieces to raise the front bunks high enough to compensate.

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