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Topics - Rbob

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Not much going on at work so I decided to repaint my aluminum boat since I will be selling it once the G/A is near completion.

Clear coat was peeling from this 2004 Raider Sea Raider and it had seen lots of years of abuse from crab and shrimp pots over the side etc.

Sanding he old Zolatone was done with #80 and #180 d/a sander.

I used a pressure pot (already had it) and put down 2 coats of Zolatone one at higher pressure and second coat at lower pressure with fluid valve opened up a couple turns.  Weirdest stuff to spray but seemed easy once I got started. 2 guys and some scaffolding. Applied white epoxy primer, 2 coats of Zolatone and 2 coats of clear. 3 days. epoxy primer, overnight dry, zolatone, overnight dry then clear coat.


Pics:





Pics:

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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Covid-19 Boat launch Fail
« on: April 16, 2020, 02:38:19 PM »
Not a Great Alaskan.

So someone tried to launch in a hurry despite the park being closed.  This is Coronet Bay at Deception Pass in Washington State:


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Great Alaskan FAQ / Bedding Deck Hardware
« on: March 26, 2020, 11:10:39 AM »
One plus side to being injured is being able to spend time thinking and learning.

I came across a great article on bedding hardware.  A must read:
https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/

And epoxy / oversize holes:
https://marinehowto.com/sealing-deck-penetrations-to-prevent-core-rot/

It might be worth a sticky..


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Boat Building Tools / Fillet Tool
« on: March 19, 2020, 08:16:10 PM »
It is late in my build but I came across a tool that I only wish I would have found sooner.  Its a $8.00 tool that I love.

I have done nice fillets using spoons, tongue depressors and home made rounded putty knives which all do ok but its cleaning the overflow that is hard for me.  You have to scrape it up but not get into your fillet.

The silicon spreader below moves the overflow of goop about an inch away, how cool is that?


Link: https://www.amazon.com/Haoguo-Silicone-Caulking-Sealant-Removal/dp/B07BDGQVL7/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc1_0?crid=V60JLH6WPEW1&cv_ct_cx=caulking+tool+kit&keywords=caulking+tool+kit&pd_rd_i=B07BDGQVL7&pd_rd_r=e350d552-91e9-4caa-8be7-5c8400ccd6b0&pd_rd_w=NhzCT&pd_rd_wg=4JOwQ&pf_rd_p=4b1ed6bc-7b8a-4e17-a1ae-e02c4857ad1f&pf_rd_r=A150K9VVNWDK0VHV23BD&psc=1&qid=1584670388&sprefix=caulking+%2Caps%2C228

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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Seat Box's
« on: March 18, 2020, 05:36:07 PM »
I built seat boxes but not sure if I should epoxy them in place. 

Not sure what everyone else has done but I am thinking (haha) about epoxying in some nailer's and just screwing the boxes to the nailers that way I can remove if necessary.


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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Trim-lok Hatch Seal
« on: February 06, 2020, 12:35:15 PM »
I used this type bubble seal for my home built hatches.   

I just discovered I have a 250' roll at work we use for our spray booth doors.

I can send in USPS flat rate to probably anywhere so if some of you are interested let me know.   I can send any length.

The stuff I have is this:


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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Seating
« on: December 18, 2019, 03:29:55 PM »
I have been looking at Pontoon Seating for rear, it would make it simpler to build, just make a 10" or so platform and screw these down and done.  Its 46" with the rests.



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Boat Building Materials / Okume Blowout Sale
« on: July 04, 2019, 09:42:18 AM »
I was at Edensaw in Port Townsend yesterday, they had a full stack of 3/4" Okume for $60 a sheet!  Wish I needed some.

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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / underdeck waterproofing
« on: January 02, 2019, 02:38:43 PM »
Brian,

I have read "glass everything and 3 coats of epoxy underdeck"  I am whining like a little girl here ! 

I get that plywood will check from moisture cycling but is it necessary on Nailers and Butt-Blocks?

I plan on using Yellow cedar, Can I  get away with 3 coats of epoxy?

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I started my build in February, which some of you know.  Here are some pics, the build is slower than I want as I keep having life get in the way but that is to be expected.  I do not plan on launching this year but my goal is by next summer.
Here are some pics:  Build the jig with big wheels, 6x6 risers and jack supports in the middle for easy leveling.  (lesson from Cannon)


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So so far I think I have most of it, raise the 2 temp framing 4 " and made the transom taller and not wider with the help of sketchup I set the transom angle at 14 degrees and drew a reference line to measure to and added 4 inches to that and dragged the transom up to that line. 

A little stumped on the bow stem, Not sure what the actual angle of the bow stem is because of the slope of the shelf's so I just set the bow stem on the 45 degree angle and made reference lines to measure to as before.

Is this correct?


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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Bottom Panels 28'GA
« on: April 07, 2016, 04:43:45 PM »
I put temporary screws thru the bottom panels into the molds when glassing the fairbody seam and the spreader at 37" back, (I used a level taped to a framing square set at 37") and put the spreader in to net the 41 5/16 od dimension of hull at this point.

Last night I installed the chines and removed the strait edges, spreader and removed the temp screws I had into the molds.  At mold 4 the bottom panels raised up after removing the screws, maybe 1/2".\

Where the spreader was it relaxed a bit also.  Should I be worried?

 

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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Lofting Shelves to 28'
« on: February 16, 2016, 12:40:37 PM »
Lofting out the shelves (full size lofting) and have a question, on sheet 002c alternative it lists station 160" thru 246 5/8" at 44-1/4" then list 325" station at 43-1/2" so boat gets narrower at the stern.

When lofting for 28' boat which is 335"  should I loft at 43-1/2" (at 335") and use a batten to "make fair" to the 246-5/8" station?

Page 41 of construction manual says to cut shelves to 5" wide which implies a strait shelf.  If I loft as listed the shelf would need to be wider than 5"  to use batten and make lines fair to rear.

Maybe the 325" station is a typo but not sure.....

Need some insight on this please.


Almost ready to post my build just need a little more progress for show and tell.

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Introductions - Are you new here? Say hello! / Bob from Olympa, Wa.
« on: February 16, 2015, 02:33:05 PM »
Getting ready to start my 28' GA and leaning toward the Newport style.  I may have wider shelves for walk-around cabin but not set on that yet.  I went to the boat show in January to get more ideas for my build and loved the Wooldridge SS Offshore Pilot model with the forward sloping window from the cuddy to bow (see attached image). I was reading thru the builds and I just noticed Adrian P. has a very similar window so maybe that will be a better way to access the bow instead of crawling up thru a port hole.  Also on the Wooldridge they have a fold down ladder for us old and young people to get down and back up from the beach.

I plan on beaching the boat with kids and grandkids in tow so I need to consider the best / easiest way to get off the boat not.  Lots of offshore salmon / halibut fishing and of course crabbing in the Puget Sound.

I know Brian is not in favor of the extended transom but if I build to 28' and close the transom at 26' I will get a step out back and more room for a fish box which I like.  Also will be adding a crab pot puller / davot.

I spend / spent a lot of time reading before I committed.  One of the big questions for me is the motor ('s) , on Wooldridge's sight they have fuel economy tests: http://www.wooldridgeboats.com/boat-model-downloads#Super%20Sport%20Offshore%20Pilothouse

The twin E-tecs get amazing mpg from 2k thru 5k but weight 390 ea with the 25" shaft.  This would be great for maneuverability at the dock and the ability to come home on one motor a lot faster that a 15hp kicker if needed.

Trolling on a 115 might be a little faster than I would like so still more thinking on that...

What impressed me the most the the 300hp Suzuki, weight 615lbs and getting 3.5 - 4.0 thru most of the curve between 2k and 4.5k.  When you add a kicker 120lbs for a 15hp Honda about 735lbs compared to the twin Etecs 780lbs.

The boats that were tested are about 4,000 lbs dry with out motor so maybe a bit heavier than most GA boats.

I know 300hp is way more than this boat will need but better mpg and negligible weight difference for me wondering why go with 200-225 hp if the 300 will get better mpg and have more hp if I ever need it.

Not sure if 300hp is to much for the transom so hopefully Brian will comment.

 So far I have purchased a kit from Chuck at Westcoast Boatworks acquired some shop space, clamps, tools etc.  Built the jig and made 10 saw horses. 

I am a little slow starting and maybe a slow finisher but I will get it done...   Right now I still have to order the epoxy and glass supplies and have a few home projects that I need to get out of the way before I get started.

I will post some pics as soon as I make a little progress.

A big thanks to all that have posted their projects, pics and ideas, I know it is time consuming to post and I appreciate all of it.  Thanks to Brian for answering the countless questions and for his design.

   

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Boat Building Tools / Which Clamps
« on: August 28, 2014, 12:30:50 PM »
Jorgensen makes a lot of them, how long is short? medium? long? 

Thanks in advance.

Bob

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