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Topics - Grady300

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For years I have been wanting to do the inside passage, one of my Bucket List items!!! I finally have a boat that was designed for this very type of trip. Just the fuel savings alone in a GA Kodiak Vrs some manufactured glass or aluminium boat in the same class will save me almost $4000. Not to mention the hours of wear & tear on my outboards will only cost me half as much since I'm only running half the HP of the big heavy boats.
 
Any Words of Wisdom for the trip Please Chime IN!! I have been reading The Wagner book that has a ton of good info in it for some of the problem areas along the way. I also have some other books and charts for more precise navigation. I'm planing to do more of the site seeing and fun (longer) stops on the way up. So I will plan my route this winter while I have plenty of time. This will take a lot of planing and reading all the do's & don'ts along the way for each stop. I plan on pre-programming my chart plotter with all of my intended stops, as much as possible.
My trip back will be more direct with fewer stops. I'm soooo looking forward to this trip. If anyone has the time and wants to buddy boat all or part of the trip let me know. I haven't decided yet if this will be a guys trip for me ( currently have lots of volunteers) or bring my favorite lady along. Just need to find that special lady that loves this kind of stuff as much as I do!!!! Hope that electric flush toilet wasn't installed in vain'''lol

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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / 140 HP on my Kodiak
« on: June 07, 2021, 05:42:37 PM »
So I called today to check on the pair of Suzuki 140hp I ordered a good 3 months ago. The counter rotating motor has come in. I can't get an answer on the other motor arrival status as of yet, still waiting to hear from the Suki rep. I talked with the marine shop today to ask if they could rig up just the single port-side motor (counter rotating) and run on it only in a worse case scenario. Sounds like he can do it with out much trouble. I'm pretty sure a single 140 would get my GA up on plane maybe get 20-25mph?. Might be a bit sluggish going up some steep swells but I think it would be doable.
I'm looking for any pros and cons on the idea!

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Originally I was going to sand and paint everything that wasn't clear finished mahogany. But now I am thinking about using some hull liner in select areas that would save a lot of time prepping for a nice paint job. Problem is I know nothing about the pros and cons after install how it holds up in the long term and what problems if any to look for. I see this stuff all the time on other factory built boats. I'm thinking of using the hull liner on the upper side/window walls and the windshield frames. Maybe the roof which will have a bit of mahogany framing. All cabinet boxes will be painted with mahogany door/drawer faces. Both bulkhead faces will be panted as well as the helm.
I am curious as to how others are finishing their wheelhouse interior? Anyone have any pros & cons about Hull Liner

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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Radar Reflectors
« on: April 14, 2021, 09:09:58 AM »
I just started thinking about how visible is a GA on the water in the soup to other boats radar without a radar reflector. I suppose a GA would be close to how visible a fiberglass factory boat would be. Anyone have any good knowledge about this? I'd hate to put an ugly Radar Reflector on my topside!!! Maybe something to deploy only on foggy days or being out at night

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Looks like might be a less expensive option than a Wallace. Have looked it all over yet but looks viable
https://planarheaters.com/product/diesel-air-heater-planar-8dm-12-24/

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I did a search and didn't find much at all on this subject for pilothouse sliding doors. I have looked quiet a bit for good solid hardware for a sliding door for the marine environment. Just wondering if anyone has any good ideas? What I found and purchased doesn't seem like it would be super secure. Not real excited about using this system pics below. The OD of the track is 1 3/8" square so it is a little bigger than it looks. I think it would hold up just nut as secure as I would like it.
Even with a nice thick door with a dead bolt won't keep someone out if they want in. With a super secure door they go through a window so maybe what I got will work. The door can only be 1/2" thick and I have found decent marine lockable door hardware that wood work.

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I hate to do it but I decided to sell “REEL SWEET” to help pay for a set of twin 140 hp Suzuki’s for my current build project. This hull really handles well out on the pond in any water I ever wanted to fish, it’s very seaworthy and VERY well set up. She's had a lot of bloody decks but I just don't see her getting much attention one my new girl is ready to go fish:)

•   Self-bailing deck
•   Marine epoxy paint inside & out
•   Non-skid floor
•   Graphite bottom (not much sticks to it)
•   Flotation under deck (not spray foam it causes problems I used pool noodles)
•   28 gallon below deck fuel tank (140 mile range)
•   28” x 60” long below deck fish well with separate bilge pump
•   Anchor Caddie on pulpit
•   Dry storage under front deck
•   Dual batteries new 2020
•   Onboard trickle charging system (plugs into 110v shore power)
•   2012 90 hp Yamaha 600 hours+- (replaced impeller ect last year) Has troll mode
•   With the 90 hp I get 34 mph with 2 guys, loaded with all fishing gear and large ice chest
•   Lowrance Auto pilot on main
•   2018 Yamaha 9.9 High thrust with electric start and hydraulic tilt
•   Garmin Reactor 40 Auto pilot on kicker with both helm and handheld remote
•   Lowrance HDS7 Gen 3 GPS linked to main auto pilot
•   2 Digital Yamaha Command Link gauges
•   Main bilge pump
•   AutoTether wireless 'kill cord' and man-overboard sensor
•   VHF Radio
•   Aluminum tandem axle trailer
        2- Scotty power twist plugs for downriggers or electric halibut reels
        2- Scotty downrigger base pads near stern
        4 Scotty Rod Holders around cockpit
Price- $36,000.00  $30,000.00 If I keep the Yami Kiker and the Garmin Reactor 40 Autopilot

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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Scupper Cover 2x6
« on: January 26, 2021, 12:18:55 PM »
I thought I would have to make some scupper covers but I found some very nice ones all made up and will work perfect. The the bright stainless finish is superb and the plates are heavy so they are well made. The rubber is thick enough to last a long time and easy enough to replace if it ever wears out. Not cheep at $68.00 each but well worth it. I also show where I got these this place really does have some hard to find items and shipping was quick. 

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I know the obvious best answer already. Just wondering if anyone is aware of and any ABYC rules or other official (do not do this) about having my batteries, battery selecting switch and my fuel tank selection valves in the same compartment. The compartment is just forward of the motor well, the left side of the box in the photo. The area is fairly well vented and I will be using USCG A1 below deck fuel hose (fire rated for 2 hours) so I can't see any fumes coming through the hose. With everything double clamped I don't see an issue. Looking for any and all comments!!!

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Other Boats that I Own / Pat and Present Boats I have Exsperienced
« on: January 02, 2021, 07:57:16 AM »
"Reel Sweet" Built this in 2013 21'4" Tolman WideBody, Still own it and love it
"Triple Net" 2006 30' Grady White Marlin 300, Great boat but what a gas hog and soooooo heavy. Typically .75-1 MPG. No longer own it

"Wood Pecker" 2009 286 Albemarle V8 inboard, Another gas hog and didn't really like the way rocked and rolled drift fishing. No longer own it

"No Name" 2006 Bennington Tri-Toon Tons of fun when I use it. She has a 2006 Honda 150 HP so easy to pull skiers, just don't use it a lot anymore. Thinking of selling it or might take the Honda off and put it on the GA if motors are hard to find with the pandemic. Not Ideal but I'm pretty sure it would get my GA up on plane no problem and maybe get 25mph out of it. this would get me through the 2021 fishing season.

"Off topic toy but had to post it" 1972 Centurion Cessna T210L Turbo charged 6 seat retractable gear. Used it mainly for business, I owned it for 12 years putting 800 hours on it before selling it in 2009 when the economy fell apart.



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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Euro Transom
« on: November 08, 2020, 03:49:32 PM »
Thought I would post this on its own thread for future builders looking for Euro transom ideas:

I have to make a big huge decision. Leave the transom as it is built right now, which is the way the designer intended. Option two is to make a euro transom. There are no plans for this so before cutting, I wanted to mock it up to see if I liked the looks and make sure my plan would work since the idea is only in my head. I think if I was going to stay with a single motor I would leave it the way it is now. I like the look and it would give me hore cockpit space. But since I really want twin motors this doesn’t really take up anymore space than the original transom if It had twins.

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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Bow Eye placement
« on: October 14, 2020, 03:13:41 PM »
Looking through the manuals I do not see any info on where to place the bow eye for the trailer winch. Seems like a good spot might be 4-5" above where the upper/main spray rails meet the bow? Any comments from builders who have their hull on a trailer would be appreciated!!

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Brian,
I was hoping you could take a look at the attached file for my fuel and freshwater tank placement. I think I have it correct trying to follow the 60% rule of centering all tanks on CG line. My CG happens to land right on my aft W/house bulkhead. I'm keeping the larger tank completely within the wheel house hoping to make a removable sealed sole over the tank area so if down the road I have a problem with my tanks I'll have access to remove them. 

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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Peel Ply
« on: June 19, 2020, 11:32:10 AM »
After hearing for years about how good peel ply works I decided this 30' Kodiak build is soooo big I wanted to relive some sanding hours. So I purchased a 60" x 30 foot long roll of this stuff to give it a try. I can't believe what a difference using peel ply makes. I would guess using this on the entire outside of the hull (not including the bottom) would save me at least 50 hours of sanding smooth enough ready for painting. The cost for the peel ply for the outside sides and transom would only be $300.00. WELL WORTH THE MONEY!!!
My question is I normally apply at least 3 to 4 coats of epoxy to fill the weave prior to sanding. In the attached photo (did a sample run on the side 2x4 stiffeners) I put one coat on while applying the glass. Then about 3 hours later I put a second coat on, with great results not needing a third or 4th coat to fill the weave. The question is do I really need to still put 3 or 4 coats of epoxy on the glass before applying the peel ply or is the 3rd & 4th coats purely to just fill the weave? if I can get away with just 2 coats it will help offset the cost of the peel ply. In the photo the one on the left is the result after removing the peel ply, two coats on each.

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After a bad mishap last fall with my 28' Albemarle getting totaled out I decided it was time to step up to real off shore boat that does not break the bank every time I pull up to the fuel dock. Started this project 2 weeks ago. I plan to splash it this time next year for the 2021 fishing season. At this a point I an thinking twin 115 HP 4-stroke Yamaha's, might go for twin 150's but I really would love to keep the 115's. Lots of time to decide at this point. I'm planing on a bow thruster if I get brave enough to cut a huge oblong shaped hole in my hull. I will make a mock-up of the hull area and practice on something first. I am pretty sure this will be the first GA with a bow thruster. 

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