Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - Grady300

Pages: [1]
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Scupper Cover 2x6
« on: January 26, 2021, 12:18:55 PM »
I thought I would have to make some scupper covers but I found some very nice ones all made up and will work perfect. The the bright stainless finish is superb and the plates are heavy so they are well made. The rubber is thick enough to last a long time and easy enough to replace if it ever wears out. Not cheep at $68.00 each but well worth it. I also show where I got these this place really does have some hard to find items and shipping was quick. 

I know the obvious best answer already. Just wondering if anyone is aware of and any ABYC rules or other official (do not do this) about having my batteries, battery selecting switch and my fuel tank selection valves in the same compartment. The compartment is just forward of the motor well, the left side of the box in the photo. The area is fairly well vented and I will be using USCG A1 below deck fuel hose (fire rated for 2 hours) so I can't see any fumes coming through the hose. With everything double clamped I don't see an issue. Looking for any and all comments!!!

Other Boats that I Own / Pat and Present Boats I have Exsperienced
« on: January 02, 2021, 07:57:16 AM »
"Reel Sweet" Built this in 2013 21'4" Tolman WideBody, Still own it and love it
"Triple Net" 2006 30' Grady White Marlin 300, Great boat but what a gas hog and soooooo heavy. Typically .75-1 MPG. No longer own it

"Wood Pecker" 2009 286 Albemarle V8 inboard, Another gas hog and didn't really like the way rocked and rolled drift fishing. No longer own it

"No Name" 2006 Bennington Tri-Toon Tons of fun when I use it. She has a 2006 Honda 150 HP so easy to pull skiers, just don't use it a lot anymore. Thinking of selling it or might take the Honda off and put it on the GA if motors are hard to find with the pandemic. Not Ideal but I'm pretty sure it would get my GA up on plane no problem and maybe get 25mph out of it. this would get me through the 2021 fishing season.

"Off topic toy but had to post it" 1972 Centurion Cessna T210L Turbo charged 6 seat retractable gear. Used it mainly for business, I owned it for 12 years putting 800 hours on it before selling it in 2009 when the economy fell apart.

General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Euro Transom
« on: November 08, 2020, 03:49:32 PM »
Thought I would post this on its own thread for future builders looking for Euro transom ideas:

I have to make a big huge decision. Leave the transom as it is built right now, which is the way the designer intended. Option two is to make a euro transom. There are no plans for this so before cutting, I wanted to mock it up to see if I liked the looks and make sure my plan would work since the idea is only in my head. I think if I was going to stay with a single motor I would leave it the way it is now. I like the look and it would give me hore cockpit space. But since I really want twin motors this doesn’t really take up anymore space than the original transom if It had twins.

General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Bow Eye placement
« on: October 14, 2020, 03:13:41 PM »
Looking through the manuals I do not see any info on where to place the bow eye for the trailer winch. Seems like a good spot might be 4-5" above where the upper/main spray rails meet the bow? Any comments from builders who have their hull on a trailer would be appreciated!!

I was hoping you could take a look at the attached file for my fuel and freshwater tank placement. I think I have it correct trying to follow the 60% rule of centering all tanks on CG line. My CG happens to land right on my aft W/house bulkhead. I'm keeping the larger tank completely within the wheel house hoping to make a removable sealed sole over the tank area so if down the road I have a problem with my tanks I'll have access to remove them. 

General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Peel Ply
« on: June 19, 2020, 11:32:10 AM »
After hearing for years about how good peel ply works I decided this 30' Kodiak build is soooo big I wanted to relive some sanding hours. So I purchased a 60" x 30 foot long roll of this stuff to give it a try. I can't believe what a difference using peel ply makes. I would guess using this on the entire outside of the hull (not including the bottom) would save me at least 50 hours of sanding smooth enough ready for painting. The cost for the peel ply for the outside sides and transom would only be $300.00. WELL WORTH THE MONEY!!!
My question is I normally apply at least 3 to 4 coats of epoxy to fill the weave prior to sanding. In the attached photo (did a sample run on the side 2x4 stiffeners) I put one coat on while applying the glass. Then about 3 hours later I put a second coat on, with great results not needing a third or 4th coat to fill the weave. The question is do I really need to still put 3 or 4 coats of epoxy on the glass before applying the peel ply or is the 3rd & 4th coats purely to just fill the weave? if I can get away with just 2 coats it will help offset the cost of the peel ply. In the photo the one on the left is the result after removing the peel ply, two coats on each.

After a bad mishap last fall with my 28' Albemarle getting totaled out I decided it was time to step up to real off shore boat that does not break the bank every time I pull up to the fuel dock. Started this project 2 weeks ago. I plan to splash it this time next year for the 2021 fishing season. At this a point I an thinking twin 115 HP 4-stroke Yamaha's, might go for twin 150's but I really would love to keep the 115's. Lots of time to decide at this point. I'm planing on a bow thruster if I get brave enough to cut a huge oblong shaped hole in my hull. I will make a mock-up of the hull area and practice on something first. I am pretty sure this will be the first GA with a bow thruster. 

After all the great comments on the fishyfish web site and Ifish web site I have basically finalized my design. The main changes from my last design post is I added the SS railing, raised the pilot house sole almost 4" for better forward visibility and to help keep all the tuna blood from running up in the wheelhouse. Where this deck meets the fishing deck I will slope it 1 1/2' to help draining out the over sized sculper I will make. I may make some changes as I go as this always seem to happen but when I get to that point I will (A) ask for more comments or (B) will just post pictures.
my epoxy showed up as din the Michels epoxy pump and expect fiberglass and wood this week. I will be gone for 8 days for the trade show in Orlando Florida I have to exhibit in every year and when I get back I will get to building. This was exactly my same start tome last year on my Tolman Wide Body build

Just wondering why the manual says specifically to used air dried CVG Fir as apposed Kiln Dried CVG Fir. I would think that KD is more stable than air dried what I am missing here?

General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Modified Price Rupert
« on: December 29, 2012, 08:46:09 AM »
Hey Brian
Hope things are going well. I am leaning towards the GA for my next build. I have modified one of the drawings you sent me, the top one is my version. Just looking for a quick opinion if you think this will work I am in the beginning stages of the thought process as far as putting it on something besides my brain anyway. I don’t want or need a full wheelhouse I will add side curtains and a back curtain with walk through for nasty days starting from the back of the roof to the sides of the wheelhouse.

I'm thinking two 40 gal tanks on each side of the fish hold to have options on with balancing out loads. Obviously most tuna trips would start out with full tanks, full gear, 300-400 pounds of ice and 4 people what’s your first thought on this configuration for CG without going to a bunch of work? I don't plan on fresh water holding tanks and all the other normal creature comforts like stove, frig all that stuff just a lean mean fishing machine. Probably will set up the cuddly with storage under the bunks and a built in head for some few and far between nights on the boat. BTW I am thinking a 4 stroke Yamaha around the150 to 175hp range with a 4 stroke 10-15 HP kicker

One last question the drawing says this is a 26’ price Rupert but when I dimension it out it says 26’10”. My question is can I still stretch it 2 feet and make it 28’10”? I have had this drawing for a while so maybe I already stretched the original drawing but I do not remember doing that. I would like to get as much fishing deck space without going outside you approved stretched dimensions.

Member Businesses / GA Kits Now Availble on The Western Half of The US
« on: November 28, 2012, 07:48:07 AM »
Offering the Great Alaskan kits 25' to 28' and the larger 30 foot 9'6' beam Kodiak GA on the Western side of the US & Internationally. Kits are cut on a CNC and are to the exact specs in Brian's plans. All plywood is marine grade and I use Boise Cascade Versalam for shelves, stringers and the 2x8 for the motor doubler. Kits are made from Doug Fir or Mahogany ply, I strongly suggest the mahogany if you want a better finish on your Skiff. A donation will be made to this website for each kit sold by West Coast Boat works. If you are on the East side of the US contact Jim Shula of Saltwater Work Shop this will save you a lot in freight cost. See our web site at where we also offer Tolman Skiff kits for all three models.

If you're looking for a bigger offshore boat than a Tolman Jumbo the GA is the way to go.  I plan to build a 28' GA myself to replace my 30' Grady White as soon as I sell it. The fuel economy alone, only requiring one main engine, and being able to trailer it is a big plus over my Grady White.

Anyone feel free to chime in:

1.   I assume if I was to stretch to 28 feet all you do is add to the back and leave the rest as is? Since the plans show the 26 foot
2.   If I were to build one I would do it much like Adrian’s layout Brian recently posted with something less than full length wheel house. I would probably keep the roof the same and add drop down curtains so to speak and a removable curtain back door.  Question is since I would add to OAL 24” and reduce weight up front by shorting the wheel  house should I move the helm back a bit? Bear in mind I would like to do this to fit the head in the bunk house. From what I can tell the helm would need to move back aprox. 16” for full size head like you have drawn in on the deck.
3.   Instead all the stuff drawn in behind the two captain chars I thought I would just add  bench seating 4 feet wide much like you see on a typical alum. sled with cabin. Under  these would be insulated fish boxes as deep as possible trying again to keep the deck clear for fishing room. The question here is this may be too much weight at mid ship I would guess with ice and full of fish on a good day could be 300-350 lbs per side. Is this doable?
4.   With all this in mind would I keep the fuel takes where they are drawn of move to the stern a bit?
5.   I’m thinking 175 to 200 hp

Introductions - Are you new here? Say hello! / New Member Intro
« on: July 04, 2012, 05:26:15 PM »
Just thought I would give a short introduction on myself. I have lived  in Central Oregon for the last 32 years, I am a self employed cabinet shop owner and have built six wood boats so far over tha least several years. I am currently building a center console 21'4" Toman Widebody (boat # 7) and it is nearing completion. I would guess I have maybe at most 60 hours left including painting and wiring.

I  am considering building a 28' GA for my next project so I thought I would join this forum, I have the same name on I currently fish off shore from a 30' Grady White which is a fantastic fishing platform and I absolutely love the boat. The only problem is besides the 1nm per gallon in fuel is there is nothing like spending a day on the water just crusing around or having a successful day of fishing in a boat you built yourself. The sence of pride is outstanding and you just don't get that satisfaction in a boat you buy pre-built. Believe me I have a lot of pride owning a Grady but its just not the same.
I won't make a finial decision until the end of this fishing season on building a 28' GA

Pages: [1]