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Messages - Brian.Dixon

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1
This is really fun and Iím totally stoked. But boy itís gonna be a tight fit as the build moves on. Once the LVLs are in place Iím really gonna do some remodeling to squeeze out every inch of space.

Tight shops sometimes mean rolling the boat/jig out of the shop, doing stuff, then rolling it back in ... or building a temporary shop extension so you can leave the boat out longer.  It's worth it in the end!

2

Looks good! Are you going to spool-up your anchor rode on top of the bow, or will part of the space visible to the cuddy carry a bin for anchor rode coming in from a windlass?

3

Size?  Haha ... wait until you turn her over and say "WHAT did I get myself into!?  This thing is HUGE!"  :D


4

Nice neat work AND making fast progress!  Good on ya.... :D

Brian


5
Great Alaskan FAQ / Love the boat! Can I build it in ALUMINUM?
« on: February 16, 2021, 07:17:09 AM »
    The question mentioned in the subject line gets asked often enough that I think I ought to post a short FAQ on the topic.

    NOTE that there are a lot of aluminum or fiberglass boats on the market already, they cost a lot, and they all get less than 1 or 2 miles per gallon.  The are the RIGHT solution for sum, but the Great Alaskan was designed for the rest of us - very seaworthy, BIG, custom-built to your requirements, tougher than commercial (polyester+gelcoat) fiberglass boats and not as tough as aluminum, and cheaper to operate.  End cost is 25-35% the cost of a commercially-built boat in its class, and gas mileage runs 3-5 miles per gallon (depending on size and accommodations/weight).  But there are trade-offs.  Noting that I do NOT design for aluminum and cannot answer aluminum-related questions in detail, the following are the trade-offs as I see them.

Aluminum Boat Pros
  • Tough, good for rough beaching (bad rock beaches)
  • Weatherproof
  • Can be stored without shelter - any weather conditions
  • MIG-welded (wire welded) boats are relatively fast to build

Aluminum Boat Cons
  • Expensive.  At $8-$10 per pound for marine aluminum, a 26-28 ft Great Alaskan weighing approximately 4900 lbs costs close to $50,000 in materials alone
  • Noisy and 'cold' on the water
  • For the Great Alaskan, you will need to seek out an aluminum boat building expert that can specify structure/construction details for an offshore boat of this size (or give up on the Great Alaskan and pick out a nice design at https://www.SpecMar.cm - Specialty Marine or equivalent)
  • The number one factor in terms of boat efficiency ('gas mileage') is boat weight (displacement) - Aluminum versions of wood/glass/epoxy boats generally weigh between 1-1/2 to 2 times MORE than the wood/glass/epoxy version - Aluminum is NOT lighter weight (aluminum is 160# per cubic foot, wood-glass-epoxy is 45# per cubic foot).  Aluminum boats BURN MORE fuel per hour and require HIGHER horsepower
  • Requires welding equipment, knowledge and skill (MIG/wire-welding, TIG)
  • If you hit a sharp rock or obstacle with an aluminum boat, it tears open a hole that stays open, maximizing in-flow of water
  • Aluminum is denser than water - aluminum boats sink unless significant flotation is added

Great Alaskan Pros
  • Tougher and more weatherproof than off-the-shelf fiberglass boats - Epoxy resin IS waterproof while polyester resin (commercially-built boats) is NOT waterproof.  Wood/glass/epoxy boats can be stored outdoor with minimal shelter
  • Lowest-cost construction of any boat in its class, finished cost generally running 25% to 35% of the cost to buy an equivalent commercially-made fiberglass boat, even cheaper when compared to equivalently-sized and capability aluminum boats
  • Quiet and 'warm' on the water, the construction materials naturally deaden noise (better for fishing!)
  • Lightweight, yet overly-strong for its size, and utilizing a monohedron/prismatic hull form, there is no other boat in its class that gets better fuel mileage
  • Compared to commercially-built fiberglass boats, the Great Alaskan has a LOT more interior room since 'hollow structural elements' necessary in fiberglass boats are NOT necessary in wood/glass/epoxy construction.  Aluminum boats are similar.
  • I've been helping builders build Great Alaskans for over 16 years and love doing so - I cannot offer any assistance on an aluminum build
  • If you hit a sharp rock or obstacle with a (plywood) wood/glass/epoxy boat, the wood tends to be self-closing, tending back towards its original shape and limiting the in-flow of water
  • Wood is less dense than water - There is enough wood in the Great Alaskan to keep the boat afloat, even if swamped or capsized

Great Alaskan Cons
  • You trade labor and hours for the discount on the price of a finished boat.  The total cost is the lowest that you can find for a boat in this class, but it does take time and effort to build versus welding aluminum or buying a commercially-built boat
  • While tough with a 3/4" thick bottom and heavy fiberglass, and able to be beached on sandy or rocky beaches without damage, wood/glass/epoxy is tougher than commercially-built polyester+gelcoat boats but not as tough as aluminum
  • Long term maintenance is minimized by at least keeping the boat out of hot sun typical of lower latitudes or heavy snow and ice typical in higher latitudes

There you go!  If anybody can think of more pros and cons on either of the above, let me know and I'll add them to the list!

Happy building!
https://www.GlacierBoats.com

Brian



6

We got 7" or 8" here in Star, Idaho ... refreshing since this part of Idaho almost never gets more than a spotty 1/2" snowfall...


7

Wow!  Nice work! Kinda like bedding the action on a rifle...


8
I thought about my wording after I posted but was too lazy to fix it. Just the fair body up to the 3/8Ē , and the chines too, right? Iíll double check before I get in there. Thanks for keeping me honest. Not like Iíve got this nailed.

The chine flats are very solid after being glassed on the inside, even though there's no glass tape on the outside seam.  You'll assemble everything as mentioned, add the 2nd layer of 3/8" ply on the bow, then (see constr. manual) you may want to fair things in a bit at the bow before doing any glassing .... then finally, fill all gaps and screw holes and glass the chine flat-to-bottom panel seam.  After the side panels are on and fair, then you'll glass the side panel-to-chine flat seam, then sheath the whole boat in glass.  I like to scrape edges and fair them before each subsequent layer of glass ... makes the final fairing easier.

9
Iíve finished up with the inside of the bottom now. I think it came out very well - very solid! Iíll do a video soon but for now thereís not a lot to show. I am rigging chain hoists now and will hopefully flip it this week so I can glass the backside this weekend. I added a bracket to the platform and hung the fiberglass roll in it. Made it really easy to pull the fabric down the hull, tack it in place with epoxy, then pour and squeegee in the resin.

Hopefully when you say "glass the backside this weekend", you mean taping the bottom (towards water) chine flat-to-bottom panel seams ... not glassing the whole thing, right?  You won't do that until the transom, side panels, and bottom panel assembly (including 2nd layer in the bow area) are all assembled and you're glassing the whole exterior of the boat.

Looking great!  Well done!


10
My first thought was to paint it all white. I only used mahogany because of its resistance to moisture. Its just so pretty to cover up with paint but much easier!!! This Kodiak has been a big boat build!!! We will see how it ends up :)

Yeah ... maybe go all white/light inside the cuddy and save the fancy wood trim work for inside the house?



11

The cuddy roof is not structural for the boat ... main thing is you'd like it strong enough to stand on.  Epoxy on top of paint works fine for that - just rough it up first.  Or as you mentioned, mask off the epoxy zones and paint after you're done.  Maybe it's just as much work as just painting it after installing?  Dunno ...


12
Maybe paint the inside of the roof before it goes on, then you'd just have to touch up the perimeter ... use PL Cement, narrow bead down the middle of each piece, on those fancy wood supports and just glass/epoxy the perimeter joints.

13

Wow!  Sweeet trailer!  Love the wheels too ... you can go faster on the corners with sport racing wheels like those! :D


14
Suffering from motor envy!  Wow that's a big one!!

...Reminds me of the manager in The Office, but I won't mention that :)


15

It's not hard to get out ... just roll it off the end of the tailgate!  :D :D


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