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Messages - Brian.Dixon

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1

Great idea ... "not fall" is a good plan :D


2
Introductions - Are you new here? Say hello! / Re: Introduction
« on: September 26, 2022, 06:43:53 AM »

Beautiful job on your 28-foot GA, Kris!  Welcome to the team!

Brian

3
Introductions - Are you new here? Say hello! / Re: Introduction
« on: September 26, 2022, 06:29:54 AM »

Love the CC speed boat!  You did a great job on it!  If you build a GA, it'll be SWEET!
Reel Sweet :)

Only if painted red?

 ;D 8) ::)

4

If you're going to be "too something" on tongue weight, being heavier on the tongue is FAR safer than having the weight too far aft ... that'll jack knife ya!

5
No motors, no fuel.  Just the boat.

Yeah, my original calcs were without all the items that go in the boat ... windows, winches, etc etc. ... and for a 27-28 foot boat came out a little less than 4000#, but that's pretty light.  If your boat were a glass or aluminum one, it would weigh twice what it does ... which is why these get such better mileage than commercial versions.




6

That weight must be with motors and brackets, right?  More than 25% of the weight on the tongue seems high ... seems like I recall 10-15% is the target.  Anyone?


7
No pictures to share, got all cabin bulkheads in and Ms Jones just finished 3rd coat of epoxy on them. Busy sanding and faring. Push to get areas finished to a point where we can begin the plumbing and electrical. Dan Bocca has graciously agreed to come down from Anchorage in November and help me with the wiring. Knowing my skill set and temperament, It will be great to have the expertise and help. I am certain the end product will be much safer. Thanks Dan!

Dan's awesome ... should write a book!


8

Awesome, thanks for all the details and additional photos ... lots of work, but better than watching TV.  I've never seen a kicker with hydraulic steering (all my friends are as broke as me), let alone valves to let you pick which motor you're steering!  It's really sweet...

Brian


9

Dan ... what're we looking at there?  Call me ignernt...


10

You have the biggest pilot house yet, and it's going to be very-well accommodated ... a real live-aboard Kodiak!

Oh ... and it's looking awesome too!  First-class work!

11

Can't wait to see the bulwark on the boat ... I wish more folks would put one on.  Same with raised coaming around the cockpit ... very classic


12
Boat Building Tools / Re: 1/3 and or 1/2 sheet sander
« on: September 05, 2022, 07:17:35 AM »
I've drooled over Festool for years ... never sprung for them yet, but may after we move into the house (in construction) and out of the 'studio' that we've got set up in the shop...

One thing that I like about the carbide scraper versus sanding is that it shaves off high spots.  Sanding tends to take down high and low pretty equivalently and isn't as helpful in getting rid of high spots.  Do some fairing on Douglas Fir ply sometime and you'll see what I mean (hard grain, soft wood between the grain lines).


13
Boat Building Tools / Re: 1/3 and or 1/2 sheet sander
« on: September 04, 2022, 05:39:13 PM »
That is some good info there.

I was wondering if it would be good for fairing large area with the big flat surface and I have always wanted one. When I buy a tool I like to buy a quality one, one time.

from Makita "Ideal for cabinet workers, boat builders or furniture makers"

I think longer/wider would be good for fairing.  45-deg up, 45-deg down, vertical and horizontal ... like long-boarding

14
Boat Building Tools / Re: 1/3 and or 1/2 sheet sander
« on: September 04, 2022, 09:53:18 AM »

OK ... I'll give it a shot.  Short answer: Yes, a finishing sander is good to have since it's (primarily forward/backward) motion makes it easier to sand one side of an inside-corner without gouging into the adjacent side (common with a round random-orbital).

For vibratory sanders, there are 3 types that I know of:

1. Random-orbital.  The sander moves the sanding head in an elliptical/orbital motion AND spins the head at the same time ... fairly random, good for avoiding cross-grain scratches on wood (not an issue for sanding epoxy)

2. Orbital (like the Makita you've referenced).  The sander moves the pad in an ellipotical/orbital motion, but no spin.  Since it's not directly forward/backward motion, it is less likely to leave cross-grain scratches on wood.  Again, not an issue for epoxy.

3. Forward/backward pad motion.  Motion is not elliptical or orbital.  Requires that you keep it moving to blend areas as you sand.

Except for very fine sanding, I would avoid sanders that only spin or use driven belts of sandpaper since (unless you need aggressive sanding/shaping).  I like random-orbital the best and use it for almost everything.  As mentioned above, the non-random orbitals (most finishing sanders) are good for along an inside corner and help prevent sanding damage to the adjacent side.  All sanders need a degree of skill, but orbital or random-orbital are easiest to use.

Brian

15
I went through what I thought would  be a warranty PITA with the vendor.  It in turn led me to the manufacturers tech dept.  turns out I just pulled the check valve out of the pump discharge and it seems to be behaving.

Seems like you'd want the check valve ... is it defective?


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