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Messages - Brian.Dixon

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1
I like the floor for separating the tank compartment from the bilge, and allowing drainage to the stern to still work... :D


3
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Under deck conduits
« on: March 24, 2020, 08:36:58 AM »
Thanks.  Iím not sure when enough is enough.  I have read that fish finder transducer wires should not share conduit with other wires. Any truth?

In general, "signal" wires in boats are digital and as such, can interfere with neighboring signal wires.  THAT said, the shielding provided on these wires are good enough to allow signal wires to run in the same channel with each other and were designed for that.  If you have older unshielded or twisted-pair wiring, then THOSE should be kept apart, and if they must cross, they should cross each other at 90-degree angles to prevent cross-talk.  With today's electronics and wiring, the rule is ... pretty much do whatever you want and it'll work.  It doesn't hurt to design for separation, but should be no problem if you don't.  Wiring to consider are busses for computers (regardless of device types) and motor control.

4
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Under deck conduits
« on: March 22, 2020, 04:21:52 PM »
Use big conduit with spare room and leave a line in it for pulling wiring through later on when you add more stuff...

5

Another fast way to seal end grain, if it's easily accessible, is FIBERGLASS.  Presoak as above and slap it on ... especially under the decks where the only fairing needed is a quick pass along the glass edges with a carbide scraper before the final epoxy seal coats.

6
 ;D ;D ;D

7

You guys need to put the bourbon away while working on the boat!!   ::) :o ;D


8
Of those listed, ALL are plenty strong enough ... I would place a priority on waterproofness instead.  I would use any 'select' wood you can get ... plywood on edge if no voids or all voids on edge grain well sealed (below), same rules for LVL.  For solid lumber, knot-free wood either with no defects or defects well-filled.  Since you asked, LVL is designed to be a beam on edge, while plywood is not ... but for stiffening a deck, it's fine.  Usually, solid lumber of square dimension is not rated as a beam either, but again, for stiffening a deck it's more than adequate.

Sealing end grain, edge grain, or wood defects: First coat edges with epoxy (repeat while wet) until the epoxy stays glossy for 10+ minutes.  This indicates that no more saturation is occurring - the end grain will turn dull if the epoxy is still being absorbed.  Cure.  Sand corners to slightly round them and sand edge/end grain smooth.  Vacuum off dust and wipe with damp towel and let dry.  Mix cream slurry of epoxy and silica and coat edges with it to plug and fill all defects (microscopy on up to large and visible).  I use a gloved hand to massage the silica mix into the wood and leave it smooth.  Cure, lightly sand, add 2 seal-coats of clear epoxy.

Note that I, personally, follow the routine above for all edges.  It's extra work, however, so I try to make sure I never have to do it ... bury edges in seams that have fillets of epoxy on them etc to avoid having to seal edge grain.  It's unavoidable on ends of nailers and bottoms of deck supports that are made from some type of ply (seal bottom edge before installation) - which is why, for the aforementioned deck supports, I'd go with dimensional lumber and would just fillet where they meet the stringers.  Just my 2-bits.  For the record, I own a 20 year old skiff that has plywood sealed as above and was stored outside in weather for most of it's life, and the plywood edges sealed as above have never failed ... look good as new (see below).

Brian


9

No kidding!  Take your time to heal up properly before you get back to work!  I fell 14' (ladder fall) in a shop once and dislocated both shoulders ... and tried to keep working.  Take it from me and don't!

Brian


10

Looking good .. nice drip loops too :D


11
My tank builder said the same thing about hanging the tank. He also told me itís not coast guard approved, not sure if thatís true

As far as I know, you're not supposed to hang the tank from flanges on top, and you're not supposed to use the top of the tank as a deck either. 


12
Thank you for the compliment,  pro style = cover your mistakes!

I seem to make plenty, I doubled up the top of the fish box, cut the hole for the hatch and marked out the inside and added the doubler....  I thought that was awesome until I tried to glue the sheer deck down and it did not fit due to the rounded corners I added, sob epoxy every where so a big rush to mark and cut the corners.  Scraped back the epoxy on the corners, set the skillsaw to 1/2" deep and made 4-5 passes on each corner and chiseled the corners off and install. 

Thank goodness for slow epoxy.

LOL ... Every boat has SOMETHING hidden in it!

Brian


13
Finally got all the cuddy glasses and taped.    Never gonna put another piece of wood in the boat without glassing it first !

Ahh ... the voice of experience!  :D

bd


14
Estimate # 2 from out of state shop was 600$ less than the local shop. Itís a 4 1/2 hour drive one way.  Hopefully as I firm up plans so I know exactly what I want prices wonít change much.  Iím having them bid a water tank too while Iím at it.   Will cost much more than a otc model, but should pay me back with a huge savings in space.  I will report back!

And if you're happy with the shop(s), give them kudos and post contact info here .... :)


15
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Hit a Log
« on: March 11, 2020, 05:09:32 AM »
Loud, scary and yes a hard hit!! I guess the point of writing about our little mishap (kinda embarrassed about it too) was the down right toughness of this boat.

"A good boat is one that gets you home long after you wish you were home" ... :D

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