Hatches and floors

[Lindy]

I was wondering if I could get some advise on two things

1) Building sequence- My plywood order for my superstructure is stuck in transport. I have wood for my deck and auxiliary stringers . Is it possible to work on that after flipping as opposed to starting with the crash bulkhead, and cabin?
2) Hatches- I plan to use some medium to large plastic access  hatches and was wondering what others thought are on the most robust and water tight of the different brands?

Thanks

[json]

I don't see why it would be a problem working on the decks first, if you have a plan and are ready to move on that.

For the hatch question, I have used Armstrong deck plates for most of my hatches once I settled on them, and have found them to be very good. They only require a simple hole, and instead of driving screws that can allow for water intrusion they simply slide in and tighten with a gasket. Simple, clean, no screws, etc, and they seem pretty solid. After the last storm rolled through around here I had about 2 inches of water accumulated on my swim step, my deck plates were fully underwater and once I removed the water and opened them they were completely dry underneath. The only thing I would do is make sure the surface they will be mounted on is flat and also clean (gasket too) when installing them.

https://www.armstrongnautical.com/armstrong-boat-deck-plates/

[Lindy]

Thanks Jason,
I like the ease of installation of the Armstrong hatches, and if they do not leak, an extra bonus.
Appreciate your input- very helpful

[Grady300]

I was wondering if I could get some advise on two things

1) Building sequence- My plywood order for my superstructure is stuck in transport. I have wood for my deck and auxiliary stringers . Is it possible to work on that after flipping as opposed to starting with the crash bulkhead, and cabin?

Thanks

I think as long as you locate where you want you rear cuddy bulkhead go for it. You can work from there to the stern. If you cut your deck to fit you will obviously need to dry fit it only, ya have a ton of underfloor work to do. It's nice to have the decks dry fit to walk on. You also need to consider how your deck is interacting with whatever style of transom splashwell you are going with. I'm a big fan of mocking stuff up with cardboard first to see how it looks. This is where forward thinking is super important & mandatory to minimize mistakes further down the road in the build.

[Brian.Dixon]

You can always make the decking pieces, fit to the boat, then set them aside if you want.  As for hatches, I like them on vertical surfaces rather than horizontal, unless you make really sure they are designed to be waterproof.  Quick-latch and screw-in round deck plates, for example, ALWAYS leak eventually ... but genuine rectangular hatches (for cuddy roof etc) are designed to be waterproof and don't leak.

[Todd j]

I decided against the Armstrong hatches because they take up too much room under the deck.  They wouldn’t work for me, so consider what it’s for and look at the cut sheet.
   I have 2 storage hatches in the cockpit deck and a big fish locker.  All with plug-able limbers on the upstream side, None of which are watertight.  My deck slopes aft and I have freeing ports at the transom.  As designed the boat is in theory not floodable even if the aft bilge is full.
  There is a thread at the top of this forum where I detailed a super easy way to make hatches and locker doors without wasting any plywood.  Hope this helps

[Djeffrey]

Jason, where did you order your engine hose and fitting into your rear deck, very clean.

[json]

I got it from Hardin marine. https://www.hardin-marine.com/

I think I need to cut the hose a bit but I agree, it is a clean install.

[Rbob]

The rigging tube, that's where I got mine also, they are nice.

Yes, more hose than you need.