Can I build the transom first?

[Vicent59]

Hello Brian and all. 
I got the kit from Chuck.  I wonder if I can start to glue the transom pieces together now?  Just don't want to have too many pieces laying around.  Thanks.  Vincent

[Brian.Dixon]

Sure... There's nothing wrong with building the transom first. 

Brian

[Vicent59]

Am I setting up the transom correctly?  Thx.  Vincent

[Vicent59]

Ready to glue together.

[Brian.Dixon]

Looks nearly correct from here... noting that it's up to you to "measure twice, cut once" and all that, to make sure that all the pieces are really correct.

I say 'nearly' correct because I do not see the two layers of 3/4" ply for laminating up the transom below the motor board(s).  Take a look at the cross section in Sheet 008a and you'll see what I mean.  No problem to add them later, but you don't want to forget them.

Brian

[Vicent59]

Thanks Brian.  I found the missing pieces.  Vincent

[Brian.Dixon]

 

Everything's looking pretty good, I might add ...nice neat work and you made fast progress!

Brian

[Vicent59]

Thanks Brian.  I would give all credits to Chuck in Oregon.  His precision CNC precut kit really a big help.  Also, Thanksgiving is tomorrow and I would like to take this opportunity to thank you for proving me (us) the opportunity to build a very nice boat. 

Next I have couple of questions regarding the transom before moving forward.  On page 59 (item e), fiberglass the forward and top faces of the LVL pieces.  Can I use the same piece of fiberglass on both faces?  I read somewhere that said fiberglass over a 90 degrees angle surface is not a good thing. 

There is a horizontal slot about 1/4" on the top LVL.  I assume that there is no need to fiberglass for this slot right?

Lastly, is there a reason for buying 10-oz x 38" fiberglass cloth?  Most websites only have 10-oz x 50".

Thanks again and have a great Thanksgiving diner with family.

Vincent
   

[Brian.Dixon]

- Yup ...Chuck's a master at what he does!

- LVL glass:  Yes, use one piece of glass.  You can router the top edge with a 3/8" or even 1/2" roundover bit to make the glass follow the bend easier.  You can also staple right through it on either side of the bend, pull the staples later, and let the finish coats of epoxy fill the staple holes.  Whatever works...

- 1/4" slot?  You mean the slot for the bottom of the dry well?  You can glass right over it as though it weren't there, then when 'green hard', slice the glass out of the slot to leave it open.

- You can buy wider glass, say 50", but you'll end up wasting more.  No biggy if that's all you can get.

Have a good thanksgiving to you too!

Brian

[Vicent59]

Hello Brian and everyone,
Is it okay to pre-wet the bottom panels with epoxy before putting them together?  Thanks.  Vincent

[Brian.Dixon]

Hello Brian and everyone,
Is it okay to pre-wet the bottom panels with epoxy before putting them together?  Thanks.  Vincent

Prewetting is never bad!    I can think of exactly zero situations where you would prefer wood that isn't wetted out very well with epoxy.  Prior to gluing, it makes sure the wood doesn't starve the joint (or whatever interface) of epoxy and prevents getting the strongest bond.  For glass, you want the underlying wood completely prewetted, whether accomplished while applying the glass or doing it ahead of time (wet or cured), for the same reason ...you want all glass to remain wetted out nicely and no wood absorbing epoxy out of it - "wetted out properly" means the glass is entirely wetted out but you can still see the weave, but the weave should not look whitish (air in it) or dry-ish.  Wetting out wood that is just being coated is ...well, just coating the wood 

BTW, a nice way to wet out wood with epoxy is to heat up the shop a bit extra, then do all your epoxy with the heat turned off or down ...as the wood cools, it'll pull epoxy into it.  Once mostly cured, turn the heat back on and the curing will continue... System Three said you can even let wet epoxy freeze, and it'll continue to cure once heated up again ...I'm not sure that I'd recommend that, but getting a tad cold is not a problem - if you heat things up again after the epoxy has cured somewhat (which, if too cold, may take too long ....so don't go crazy with this).

Brian

[Vicent59]

Hello Brain,
Due to the thickness of fiberglass on the LVL top surfaces, the lowest pieces are lower than the transom panel.  Should I trim the LVLs to make them fit?
Thank you,
Vincent

[Vicent59]

Another pic

[Brian.Dixon]

Did you glass the LVL before installation?  I can see how glassing the top/bottom edges would add extra thickness ...normally, you'd assemble the entire transom (permanently, with epoxy), then do all your glassing after.  The sizes would add up and not have overhang that way.  But ...it doesn't hurt to have the glass between the LVL pieces either.  I can't quite see how much the overhang is, but if it's 1/8" of an inch or less, I'd leave it be and just assemble the boat.  If more than that, then I'd probably plane it back down.  No biggy ...keep on truckin'...

Brian

[Dave Collett-Paule]

Lastly, is there a reason for buying 10-oz x 38" fiberglass cloth?  Most websites only have 10-oz x 50".

   

Vincent, I used the 50" cloth and found that it laps over the chines and keel, giving you an added 20-oz to your build-up on these critical joints.