Author Topic: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build  (Read 216469 times)

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Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #30 on: May 19, 2016, 10:39:01 AM »
 I am afraid to post a pic of the joint I did, at least a 1/4" gap everywhere ! Took me awhile, that big fillet I did on the V caused me lots of trial fit and fits.

BobC how did you do it?

BobC

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #31 on: May 19, 2016, 01:50:38 PM »
Aww, shucks guys.  I probably have 2-3x more hours in it than yours and it won't work any different than your 1/4" gap fitting.  Looks aren't everything.  You'll all be fishing while I'm still planning and sanding and as Cannon said it all gets covered up.  :( 

I'm guessing by the time I get to doing the cabin,  and closer to launching, there will be a lot more epoxy in the joints... ;D I have been blessed to have some nice material to work with as well which always helps. 


BobC

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #32 on: May 20, 2016, 06:53:36 AM »
Here's that joint with big fillet.

BobC

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #33 on: May 20, 2016, 06:55:01 AM »
and then another with first layer of glass. 

davidnolan

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #34 on: May 20, 2016, 08:16:18 AM »
Im late to this party and I didn't build a GA.   This is a common area of issue.   I built and had almost the same picture as yours with the plywood so far off the stem.     I didn't want to do all that work insetting the stem into the bow and I knew this ahead of time.   When the time came, I simply got out my can of PL construction adhesive, added a 1/2 inch piece of plywood glued to the stem and screwed in where they would not get in the way.   A couple hours later I planed the plywood to get the perfect fit.   Its not milled glass fiber but Im really not concerned that the plywood will ever come apart from the stem.   It was very simple and quick.  My other issue was that My side panels were cut for a 26 foot boat and then I stretched to 27 ft so I had to add a piece later on that wasn't scarfed, just glassed in.

In the end the planer and then 50 grit paper cleaned it all up perfectly nice for my workboat skiff.

I know of several east coast boat builders doing the GA.  I think it will make a perfect offshore canyon fisher in nice to moderate conditions where you don't have to spend 900 in fuel like my last trip on a 31 contender with twin 250 HPS.      I fished Tuesday in the canyon and we went 120 miles out and back on 40 gallons.   

heres some pics of what I did just for another angle on this.   

more difficult for me was bending the 3/8 ply and getting good contact.   I used boards and straps to apply pressure where ordinary screws wouldn't hold it.   I also drilled LOTS of holes to make sure I got squeeze out and was sure I had full contact.     

Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #35 on: May 20, 2016, 09:27:36 AM »
That's another option I did not think about, I may end up going that way.  My fillet on the inside is huge causing me to remove much of the stem to get a good fit. 

Thanks!


Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #36 on: May 23, 2016, 04:03:20 PM »
Well I got a better fit after removing the hump in the fillet. Spent a lot of time fitting the other stem I made but it looks much better:  Then I got side tracked shrimping then a return trip to search for lost shrimp pot. I will be fishing 3 days starting Thusrday.


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Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #37 on: June 07, 2016, 12:32:26 PM »
I have a question on the transom, the manual says:
"Fiberglass the forward and top faces (but not the lower and back faces) of
the LVL pieces with 10- to 12-ounce biaxial fiberglass, optionally glassing
with 10-ounce woven fiberglass wet-on-wet to avoid having to fair the
biaxial after curing.

Is this done before laminating the lvl to the plywood transom?

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #38 on: June 07, 2016, 02:28:50 PM »
I have a question on the transom, the manual says:
"Fiberglass the forward and top faces (but not the lower and back faces) of
the LVL pieces with 10- to 12-ounce biaxial fiberglass, optionally glassing
with 10-ounce woven fiberglass wet-on-wet to avoid having to fair the
biaxial after curing.

Is this done before laminating the lvl to the plywood transom?

To put this in context, the quote above refers to the LVL motor board on the transom, not the LVL stringers....

The instructions refer to glassing the LVL motor boards ('beams' in the drawing) prior to gluing them onto the transom.  You will glass over the motor cut-out later, e.g. glass will overlap onto the aft face of the transom and onto the f'w'd face of the motor board.

Somewhat obviously, you could actually glass these in any order, and could even glass over the top of the motor cut-out when you glass the motor boards if you want extra glass there... not necessary though.  Another option is to put the biax on the motor boards after they've been glued onto the transom and cured, nails/screws removed as necessary.  This would allow you to fillet any gaps between the upper and lower motor boards and to transition any difference in height (with thickened epoxy) between the lower doublers and the motor boards ...then glass over the hole thing smoothly, and add 10-oz wet-on-wet and almost totally avoid fairing on the transom.  The main thing is to a) have that biax on the motor boards, and b) have the minimum number of ounces on the transom, inside and out.

Brian
The Great Alaskan - Professional performance - Easy to build! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?>

Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #39 on: June 07, 2016, 03:02:41 PM »
I will glass afterwards then, probably get wider biaxial cloth so I can cover the LVL motor mount boards with 1 piece.

Progress has been slow lately but I am not in a race so I will keep on keeping on.

Thanks again Brian!

 

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #40 on: June 08, 2016, 09:34:41 AM »
I will glass afterwards then, probably get wider biaxial cloth so I can cover the LVL motor mount boards with 1 piece.

Progress has been slow lately but I am not in a race so I will keep on keeping on.

Thanks again Brian!

That'll work fine...

Just try to consistently make a little progress each day or week, and it WILL get done...

Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional performance - Easy to build! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?>

Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #41 on: June 08, 2016, 10:19:04 AM »
Installed the stem and laminated the transom last night, the transom took a lot more epoxy than I anticipated which was 3 batches but got it done.


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Brian.Dixon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #42 on: June 08, 2016, 02:26:24 PM »
That transom's heavy, isn't it?!  :o ;D

Brian

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Cannon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #43 on: June 08, 2016, 07:44:20 PM »
The transom is hernia heavy, good thing I didn't get one I would send Brian the bill😝
Remember, the ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic was built by professionals.
Started building Paula J the 2nd Week of June 2015, finished her the second week of July 2016.

Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #44 on: June 08, 2016, 08:37:15 PM »
I had help turning over the transom!  Tonight I put in the doubler's on the transom and put some biax on the stem/shelf fillet, I was going to put some glass over the biax but ran out of epoxy and decided good enough.

Up next will be mounting the transom and then building and pre-glassing the side panels before installing them.