Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build

[Cannon]

Seems to me like way overkill, seldom had more than a Dixie cup...


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[BobC]

Is this a lot of squeeze out:
1 quart, seems like a lot.


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Yep, lots of squeeze out.  Reminds me of the movie National Lampoons Xmas vacation.  "Lots of sap" scene.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJxJakcwBOM

LOL.  Lots of parallels there including his hands sticking to the book pages that night. I can relate.  I'm sitting here trying to get some epoxy off my glasses as I write this.  Epoxy seems to make its way into the darnedest places. 

I believe Renn had the best answer to the problem.  Have plenty of other parts and pieces lined up that need some epoxy so you can use the leftover squeeze out, like filling screw holes etc. so it doesn't all go to waste.

[Cannon]

My favorite scene was the dumping of the holding tank...


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[Cannon]

From this pic it would be measurement "B" or A  depending on where the winch stand/roller is.

Just trying to look ahead, all the 2 axle trailers I see are short.

The measurement from the rear of the bunks to the cross member is 23' 8"
The measurement from the rear of the bunks to the bumper wheel of the winch is 25, 10". That is with the boat moved back four inches and the winch moved back as well to give me clearance between the cross member and the keel.
Sorry it took me so long to get back to you on this, I suffer from CRS...

[Rbob]

Thanks Cannon, and I appreciate you taking the time to do it when you should be spending your time finishing your boat!

[Rbob]

I suffer from CRS too!

[Cannon]

I thought about it, in between phone calls I ran out and measured. Took all of five minutes. To be quite honest, it was one of those things that bugged me right up till I loaded the boat on the trailer. I wish I had asked way back then.

[robertrosie5]

Not much progress lately but I did get the front second layer bow on yesterday, just one side.



The gap between the outer panel and chine was a little wider than I wanted at the front but I will fill it in with epoxy. I had clamped a block at mid panel to align to, I will pay more attention on the other side.

At the rate I am going I will be lucky to flip it in September. I am not in  rush yet and if it takes more than a year so be it.





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[Brian.Dixon]

Hey ...It's better to have a gap to fill than a big piece of wood that has LOTSA screws that has to be taken off and trimmed, or trimmed while on the boat.  Filling gaps is a way of life for s-n-g boat builders and it's better to have a gap than a wood-on-wood hard spot.  The fish will never notice...

Brian

[Cannon]

They will on my boat, just after coming over the side, getting their throat cut and ending upside down in the bleed bucket...

[Brian.Dixon]

They will on my boat, just after coming over the side, getting their throat cut and ending upside down in the bleed bucket...

I landed a 44# Chinook in Puget Sound once, fishing out of a friend's boat.  He was VERY particular about his boat, wanting every drop of fish blood accounted for and cleaned up... NO bleeding fish into the drywell or on the deck, ALWAYS bleed the fish into a 5-gal bucket and then into the cooler, and wash out that bucket pronto.  Well, that 44-pounder was way too long for that bucket, and right after I sliced the gills on one side (head down in the bucket), it gave one last kick and I lost my grip ...that darn fish flopped all over the deck, squirting blood everywhere... boy was he pissed.  And to put the icing on the cake, we'd spent about 12 hours fishing, zero hook-ups, and were just turning back when I caught that fish (104' down on a #603 Tomic) ...he didn't catch diddly and his boat was a raving mess, and his 7 year old kid that was with us kept repeating all of the above ..."Hey Dad?  You didn't catch any fish!".  I just kept quiet all the way back ..took my fish home and minded my own business... 

bd

PS: Oh yeah ...he had also gouged the gelcoat on his boat that  morning because we had put in at Freshwater Bay, launching off the beach, and his boat snagged a submerged rock on the way out...     All in all, a great day for all!

[Cannon]

I learned a long time ago, fishing is hard on a boat. The first scratch is going to be one of many! Oh and I am real pleased with the Duralux paint. It hardened up and has proven to be quite durable!


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[Rbob]

Well, its going slow but I did catch a lot of prawns yesterday!  I  got the second layer on the other side and I did not have a big of gap at the chine but had to add a little at the keel side, and filled the gap at the chine both sides. 

So when flattening out the keel 3/4"  for the bottom strake (front part) I imagine gradually tapering it to where it will the strake will sit on top of the keel the rest of the way back? questioning myself...
 
 Did a little today after granddaughters soccer practice, The scarfs that were stepped (Kit) sucked, every one them as the staggered cut would not allow the 2 panels to sit flush.  I ended up stacking all 8 side pieces and re-scarfing with a power planer and I wish I would have done it on the previous scarfs which I tried to hand plane each step to get it to fit..

Those screw holes I have to fill on the bow's second layer, should I drill them out (from outside) then fill? or just fill?

I read that some people scarf a whole stack which I may want to try. Suggestions on that?

I have one one forward panel glued tonight, I can put plastic down and do the next one on top of that and if I had more room I could lay out all 6 pieces I have left and pre-coat the scarfs then start laying them up with glue, plastic stack more on top etc.  Maybe too much to try all at once.

Maybe just one at a time, remove plastic and scrape it flush and go ahead and put the cloth/epoxy on before moving on to next piece.

[Cannon]

It's funny, but scarfing is one of the big stumbling blocks for first time builders. I obsessed over it right up to the day I did it. In reality it is a simple process and easily accomplished. The only thing I would stress is that you use a sheet of 3/4 ply for a base. It would be even better with a couple of 2x4's screwed in flat to keep the base from flexing down. Other than that, it goes quickly.  I used a straight edge both ways to be sure I didn't have humps or dips.


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[Brian.Dixon]

Those screw holes ....First, make the wood surface smooth and free of loose stuff, e.g. take the screws back out after the 2 layers are cured together, then remove any wood splinters, glass, etc.  Then I sweep, then shopvac each screw hole.  I fill the holes with epoxy that's thickened with fairing compound (phenolic microballons or glass microballoons plus silica).  I fill the holes to the point that there is a 'bump' of epoxy above flush.  Trying to scrape off excess creates a dent over the screw hole that has to be filled again later.  If you leave the fill epoxy bumped up above the surface, then you can scrape it flush with a carbide scraper after it's cured.  I find that this method results in a smoother, nicer, surface.  It's how I fill all screw holes...

You'll want to fill on the inside and outside.  The inside of the hull is already glassed at this point, and that's fine.  Just fill, cure, scrape as described and put a finish coat or two of epoxy over the filled holes and call it good.  On the outside, it'll all get glassed over when you glass the bottom assembly.

Brian