GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK

[json]

Looks great Dan! Question about that winch - do you go to the bow and tie off when you are breaking out your anchor? I have seen mixed info about if that's necessary using an EZ puller, would love to hear your experience using it and if you have found that necessary or not. Also, what kind of roller are you using?

[Rbob]

Love that winch!

[Dan Boccia]

Brian, your questions about the clamps are totally valid. Two clamps are better than one, especially when you plan to bury them below deck. What you can't see in the photo is that both hoses are sealed into the fore/aft bulkhead just a few inches away from the tank connections, so there's zero stress on these connections, and absolutely nowhere for the hoses to go. Even unclamped, all the vibration in the world could not get the hoses to come off the fittings, so the only purpose the clamps have is to provide a good seal. It's a very good situation.

The new vent fitting, to my surprise, has a short hose barb, with only enough room for one clamp - so nothing I can do there anyway. And yes, the fill clamp is a beefy one I used in my water/sewer days that survived freeze/thaw, 140 degree temperature swings, and I am completely confident it's not going anywhere.

Please put some blurb about putting the fill and vent 6" apart or further on custom tanks so others can avoid this whole thing!
The boat is approaching completion, and I'm very happy.
Thanks -
Dan

[Brian.Dixon]

Brian, your questions about the clamps are totally valid. Two clamps are better than one, especially when you plan to bury them below deck. What you can't see in the photo is that both hoses are sealed into the fore/aft bulkhead just a few inches away from the tank connections, so there's zero stress on these connections, and absolutely nowhere for the hoses to go. Even unclamped, all the vibration in the world could not get the hoses to come off the fittings, so the only purpose the clamps have is to provide a good seal. It's a very good situation.

The new vent fitting, to my surprise, has a short hose barb, with only enough room for one clamp - so nothing I can do there anyway. And yes, the fill clamp is a beefy one I used in my water/sewer days that survived freeze/thaw, 140 degree temperature swings, and I am completely confident it's not going anywhere.

Please put some blurb about putting the fill and vent 6" apart or further on custom tanks so others can avoid this whole thing!
The boat is approaching completion, and I'm very happy.
Thanks -
Dan

I trust your opinions and know already that you're a "do it right the first time" kind of guy.  Your fuel tank advice is already in the Part 2 of 2 construction manual ... pretty close to verbatim (and the added section's got your name all over it ):

"7. Make darn sure your fuel fill and vents are at least 6" apart, and 8" or more is better. "



Brian

[Dan Boccia]

json -
There definitely IS conflicting information on whether you should cleat off the winch or not. When you're fishing for awhile on the anchor in calm seas, I can see just leaving the tension on the reel. Same if you're just anchoring for a short lunch break. In all cases, for breaking out the anchor, I highly recommend, as does the local supplier I bought it from, that you cleat it off first.

Also, when I'm setting the hook for the night, you bet I'm going to cleat it off. We're all calling it a winch, but it's better called an "anchor retrieval device", and I'm sure it would be best if used as such, rather than trying to milk more out of it and have a problem.

[json]

Thanks Dan, makes sense... Nice job on the boat, glad to have all of your experience to draw on.

[Rbob]

Dan,

I have a question about the Wallace heater ducting, I looked at your pictures but not sure if you put defrosters at the windshield if so did you step down to 2.5" or have pics?

Rbob

[Todd j]

I'm glad you asked this question.  Im interested in doing the same thing

[kennneee]

I have had a problem with fuel coming out of the vent when I fill my tank. The vent is doing it’s job but it happens fast and no way to know when I am close to full. I just installed one of these and hope it works. My tank is very full at the moment and when the temperature goes up I get a weeping out of the vent. I don’t know if anything will prevent that except not filling so high.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/attwood--fuel-vent-line-surge-protector--303851
Ken

[Dan Boccia]

I did not put a defroster hose up to the windshield area - the guys in Seattle who rep Wallas, and REALLY know their stuff, recommended to keep the ducting to a minimum. They said that as long as there is heat into the cabin area, it typically keeps the windows defrosted. I have a 3" piped about halfway into the cuddy, a 3" terminating at the forward bulkhead of the port passenger seat cabinet, and a 2 1/2" going back to my wet gear locker. I have the vents that allow you to stick a butter knife or similar into them to close the duct on that run if not needed.

I agree that it would be very sweet to have defrost right up to the windows.....the only problem is that heat rises, and I like the idea of piping the heat to low places so it can rise, to keep moisture out of those areas. That said, a 2 1/2" to the window area would certainly work!

[Dan Boccia]

Kennneee, please report to us how that fuel vent surge protector works out! Racor LG100, for more money, is another option, but so far, the only time fuel comes out my vent is when I'm filling and my tank fills up, then I get just a tiny little dribble and I'm done. Ultimately I'd love to mount the fuel vents higher than the fuel fills to avoid this altogether, but that's a project for a distant day. If this little unit works, it's a fairly simple solution.

[Todd j]

What about the whistler fittings that are in the vent hose right at the tank?   I thought about using these.  Give you a few feet of warning I expect. 

[Dan Boccia]

Todd, I've read that those whistlers can get very loud, and whistle the whole time you're fueling, changing pitch as the tank fills up. Other than that I am pretty ignorant of them. I just got a new boat mechanical book in today, and it details the Racor LG100, which looks perfect to me, other than being quite large. Racor makes an LG50 for gas only that looks much more reasonably sized. I think I can fit the LG50 right into my existing vent lines. They're a little spendy, but with their ball check valve that will not allow fuel out when filling, it looks like exactly what we're all looking for.

BTW, the new book is "Boat Mechanical Systems Handbook" by Dave Gerr. It's not nearly as useful as Calder's book for us, but I've only glanced at a few select sections and have already come up with some useful ideas, which as you know, are hard to come by.

Another good book I just got in, recently updated in 2019, is "Happy Hooking - the Art of Anchoring" by Alex and Daria Blackwell. Excellent information about everything to do with anchor systems. Lots of useful information here.

[kennneee]

Kennneee, please report to us how that fuel vent surge protector works out! Racor LG100, for more money, is another option, but so far, the only time fuel comes out my vent is when I'm filling and my tank fills up, then I get just a tiny little dribble and I'm done. Ultimately I'd love to mount the fuel vents higher than the fuel fills to avoid this altogether, but that's a project for a distant day. If this little unit works, it's a fairly simple solution.

I will put Rosie back in the water a a couple of weeks and will know more then. The Racor might be a better option as this one allows fuel to dribble out when the temperature climbs. It may prevent a surge which is half the battle but not a complete solution. I would be interested to know how the Racor compares.

[kennneee]

I found this article which describes testing different venting/anti spill devices.
https://www.boatus.org/findings/40/