Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA

[Todd j]

Maybe I can shrink them somehow In Settings

[json]

It's because there is metadata on the image taken on your phone that is not being used to display the photo properly. A photo taken on a phone (iphone for sure, not sure about other ones) have a standard way of writing the image into memory, which doesn't change when you change the orientation of your phone, and then add a metadata to the image to say which orientation it has. One way to deal with that is to open and save your phone images on a computer, because that will actually write the image data into the correct orientation as opposed to using exif data. Another way is to set up an image processing plugin on your server that essentially does that (rewrites the image data into the correct orientation) on upload if it's not already. There are plugins for simple machines forums, here is a link to a mod that will do it: https://custom.simplemachines.org/mods/index.php?mod=4087

Another option that is somewhat of a hack but also simple enough is to just take phone images in the orientation that isn't translated (ie landscape, not portrait) and upload those. They should always show up in the correct way.

[Brian.Dixon]

Thanks!  It's been a while since I messed with mods ... totally forgot about even looking   !

The forums are due an upgrade ... maybe before too long I'll both upgrade and install a mod for displaying images properly.

Thx

[json]

No worries Brian, good luck updating, that's never a fun task...

Todd, another thing you can do I think is edit the image and save it on your phone, so you could for instance rotate it once, save it, then rotate it back to it's original orientation and save it again and that should apply the orientation to the image, at which point when you upload it it will appear correctly for everyone and rbob will be happy.

[json]

It's been a lousy week at work so I played hooky today and did the initial glue-in of the side panels and some of the roof braces for the cuddy. Bunks are in, I just need to fair them, getting close to having the cuddy roughly wrapped up and moving on to the under deck layout and structure.

[Brian.Dixon]

Nice ... and I like the nice big access into the cuddy bunk storage

Brian

[json]

I went and picked up my tank this morning from Bay City Fab in Ventura. They were great to work with, knowledgeable guys, they were able to turn this tank around once I had the design finalized in about half a week. I have purposefully held off on finishing the tank coffin until I had the tank in hand so I could make sure all fit and assumptions were correct. I am a bit torn on what I am going to do with the mounting tabs. I am going to add to the tops of the stringers, but I am not sure if I should use some big burly wood screws to screw into the additional wood on top of the stringers, or the other idea I am kicking around is to make a recess under the tabs in the additional wood where I can hold a washer and nut and use some bolts. If I did the second option I could probably make sure encapsulation was solid, but it's more work and I am honestly not sure that just tapping some super thick wood screws into the additional stringer wood without breaking the stringer's encapsulation itself would be a bad option.

[Rbob]

Awesome looking tank, and the vent is far away enough from the fill so no issue there.

Mounting suggestion, Could you epoxy in place threaded studs (not wood screw type) with plenty room for epoxy on the sides of studs, like 3/8" studs with 3/4" hole filled with high density filler / epoxy mix?  Removal would be relatively easy.

[json]

Awesome looking tank, and the vent is far away enough from the fill so no issue there.

Mounting suggestion, Could you epoxy in place threaded studs (not wood screw type) with plenty room for epoxy on the sides of studs, like 3/8" studs with 3/4" hole filled with high density filler / epoxy mix?  Removal would be relatively easy.

Hmmm.. On today's edition of why didn't I think of that... Thanks rbob, that sounds as painless as wood screws but much less opportunity for water ingress. Removal as easy as twisting off some nuts. Awesome. I will probably go with that. What depth do you think I would need to put studs to have them securely in place? I wonder if I should put some nuts on the sunk half of them to give the epoxy even more to grab onto.

[Rbob]

Something like the Georgeon Book demonstrates:

[Rbob]

That tank is huge!  Fill it up while the gas price is cheap.

[Brian.Dixon]

I agree with the Gougeon Brother's method of bedding your fasteners (whichever you choose) in epoxy.  Their illustration does not, however, maintain the bedding around the bottom end of the threaded rod.  That's OK since the plug of epoxy above that area prevents water from getting down to the bottom end of the rod.  But I still prefer the entire threaded rod (or bolt etc) be buried in epoxy ... I like extra care for when it comes to water-proofing anything under the decks.  No big deal I guess, jus' sayin'.  Same goes for motor mount and other holes ... drill oversize, back-fill with epoxy, then drill right-sized.  The epoxy around the hole will also provide some 'meat' that helps prevent washers and they like from compressing wood and creating water-intrusion cracks around the perimeter of the holes.

Brian

[json]

Makes sense, thanks Brian. I put in an order for an assortment of 316 studs and nuts. I am thinking I am going to bed them strictly in the secondary wood above the actual stringers, so if that gets compromised then not whatever but better than the alternative... Either way, it's a way better solution than I was going to chase so thanks guys for your ideas. I will post some pics of the journey.

[Brian.Dixon]

Makes sense, thanks Brian. I put in an order for an assortment of 316 studs and nuts. I am thinking I am going to bed them strictly in the secondary wood above the actual stringers, so if that gets compromised then not whatever but better than the alternative... Either way, it's a way better solution than I was going to chase so thanks guys for your ideas. I will post some pics of the journey.

Sounds awesome!

[json]

I got a test piece of 5052 al to test clean, spray with zinc chromate, and barrier coat. There is so much different information about painting aluminum it's tough to sort it out to even get a plan. What I finally settled on was to clean the surface spotless with acetone, spray a thin coat of zinc chromate, then coat with total boat aluminum barrier coat primer. It took me a minute to work up the courage to spray the zc (apparently super toxic stuff), but I painted the test aluminum I had, and the barrier coat hasn't dried yet but it looks like it's going to work well. Once I had sprayed the zc and it dried it was pretty apparent that that stuff is not going to come off. I am going to wait for the barrier coat to fully dry and maybe scratch and beat on it a little bit to see how durable it is, but it seems like this is going to be some good insurance for the outside of the tank at the very least.

I was planning to just paint the bottom and sides, should I consider painting the top too? I couldn't think it would hurt, but maybe not worth the effort.