Author Topic: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA  (Read 83555 times)

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Grady300

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #330 on: September 07, 2021, 10:53:44 PM »
Insurance?  As long as you do not exceed the recommended towing capacity of your vehicle I see no issue. 

It is safer towing with a non sagging vehicle for sure.  The only compromise I see is the brakes on a half ton truck are not ideal for panic stops with heavy loads behind so keep plenty of room in front of you.  I can tow with a F-350 Crew Cab Diesel with disc brakes all around and the stopping power is amazing, when I tow with my Nissan I am very careful..

Couple of great articles below.
 
https://autoreviewhub.com/trucks-towing-capacity-ranked/

https://www.kbb.com/car-advice/towing-capacity-guide/
I agree. My stock F-350 same as robs tows everything, its amazing! Just towed my rig over the pass to get a motor. It had 1470 lbs of tong weight. Never swayed once but it has good electric breaks on the trailer and I was very careful. I'll be moving the axles forward
« Last Edit: September 09, 2021, 07:32:47 AM by Grady300 »
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rhenryinoregon

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #331 on: September 08, 2021, 04:15:00 PM »
I did the Roadmaster Active Suspension add-on to my Ford F-150 1/2 tone and really like it. My travel trailer would really make it squat and sway. They’re a little bit more money but don’t require pumping up. And when there is no load I really don’t know the difference. It’s been a great solution for my truck. https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Vehicle_Suspension-pm-RAS.aspx

I like how they don't require any holes to be drilled.  Do they actually prevent squating when towing a load that's a bit much for your truck's rating?



I bought a beat up 24’ travel trailer to refurbish three years ago - lots of tongue weight.  That first trip home on winding gravel roads and the Columbia Gorge highway was frightening. The truck squatted quite a bit and the trailer  was squirrelly in wind, I think that was my first experience with leaf spring roll as well. These things completely solved the problem and I don’t notice any change in ride when not towing anything. I’ve had them three years now and no problems. You can screw them down for a heavier load if needed but I find the base setting is adequate. I’ve literally never touched them since I put them on except to occasionally make sure they’re still there. I’m pretty happy with them.
Randy Henry, SILVERTON Oregon
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Brian.Dixon

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #332 on: September 09, 2021, 12:49:28 PM »

The RAS thing looks easy to install too.  I still believe that a 3/4 ton truck w/enhancement (RAS or bags) is a great compromise... rides better than a 1-ton, you generally get a tranny that's more "car like" in how it shifts and uses over-drive etc, but in a heart beat, you can tow something heavier.  Oh ... the 3/4t costs $10k less too ....

You've viewed the truck from the side and that gizmo prevents squat?  Or is it more of a roll-control device?

The Great Alaskan - Professional performance - Easy to build! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?>

rhenryinoregon

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #333 on: September 18, 2021, 07:41:53 PM »

The RAS thing looks easy to install too.  I still believe that a 3/4 ton truck w/enhancement (RAS or bags) is a great compromise... rides better than a 1-ton, you generally get a tranny that's more "car like" in how it shifts and uses over-drive etc, but in a heart beat, you can tow something heavier.  Oh ... the 3/4t costs $10k less too ....

You've viewed the truck from the side and that gizmo prevents squat?  Or is it more of a roll-control device?
Definitely prevents squat.
Randy Henry, SILVERTON Oregon
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json

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #334 on: September 18, 2021, 09:18:27 PM »
For those who may be curious I talked to a rep from ez anchor puller on Friday, they said that pulling under the spool was no problem as long as as I was using the roller that was provided in the kit, which I am. I guess real world will probably dictate whether further action on my part is necessary but they seemed pretty confident that that was within the intended use for their system.
« Last Edit: September 18, 2021, 09:19:19 PM by json »

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #335 on: September 19, 2021, 08:54:58 AM »

The RAS thing looks easy to install too.  I still believe that a 3/4 ton truck w/enhancement (RAS or bags) is a great compromise... rides better than a 1-ton, you generally get a tranny that's more "car like" in how it shifts and uses over-drive etc, but in a heart beat, you can tow something heavier.  Oh ... the 3/4t costs $10k less too ....

You've viewed the truck from the side and that gizmo prevents squat?  Or is it more of a roll-control device?
Definitely prevents squat.

Well ... as soon as I get a new(er) F-250, I might just put those in!  Hate drilling holes through factory metal ... but would for airbags, especially if the hole is small as mentioned above.

The Great Alaskan - Professional performance - Easy to build! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?>

json

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #336 on: October 07, 2021, 02:45:39 PM »
I have been finally pushing forward my ipe rub rails. I got the port one almost installed, just need to figure out how to get the bend around the bow. The stuff is really hard to bend. I also had big anxiety about turning my hard fought sheer line into swiss cheese, I just had to keep telling myself it's for the greater good. I was able to bury 50 threaded posts on the port side and epoxy oversized holes, and they seem solid. I still need to cap this side with a thin veneer of ipe and fair it, but I am happy with the result so far. I am hoping to have these done by next week.


Rbob

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #337 on: October 07, 2021, 05:52:22 PM »
Those look amazing, and will be near bullet proof. I remember using a file to round the corners over.  I capped my meranti rails with ipe and was forced to put several thin strips to make the bend up front. 

Something abound drilling holes in a boat makes me pause also. 

ghelland

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #338 on: October 07, 2021, 11:49:38 PM »
I made all of the spray rails and keel guard out of IPE on my boat.  I had to slice it down to 3/8 thick to get the bends I needed.  I would like to have the same style rub rails you are making now.  If you find some great trick other than lapping thin slices together, like I did on my spray rails, I sure would like to know.
P.S.  I have had no issue cutting IPE with carbide tools.

json

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #339 on: October 08, 2021, 08:04:34 AM »
I made all of the spray rails and keel guard out of IPE on my boat.  I had to slice it down to 3/8 thick to get the bends I needed.  I would like to have the same style rub rails you are making now.  If you find some great trick other than lapping thin slices together, like I did on my spray rails, I sure would like to know.
P.S.  I have had no issue cutting IPE with carbide tools.

So far I have no trick, I am just brute forcing it into place. I think I am going to try to use some clamps to coerce the front into place, and then I am hoping they won't pop out using threaded studs every 6". The pieces I am using are standard s4s decking in depth, so probably around 5/8" to 3/4" thick? I might have a quarter inch I could plane off to still keep the holes above the studs, but I think it would be close so hoping I can make this work. I wish I would have done my strakes and centerline in ipe, that's a great idea for durability and beaching... I already knicked the center one down to the wood when I was putting the boat on the trailer and had to patch it, if it was ipe I would have not really cared much about that if I even glassed it to begin with.

ghelland

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #340 on: October 08, 2021, 10:23:33 PM »
You could put some thin cuts across from top to bottom on the inside of the wood.  That way you would be loading the outside in tension but the compression on the inner half of the wood would be reduced.  It will reduce the overall strength of the wood but at least it should reduce the tension on your bolts.

json

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #341 on: October 09, 2021, 08:27:35 AM »
I thought about that and might give it a try if this seems too crazy tight. When I test fit it I was using deck screws to hold it while my brother muscled it into place, and only the last one pulled so I think it might be ok if I can get it into shape, but some inner cuts would probably go a long way towards reducing how much spring back force there is.

Grady300

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #342 on: October 12, 2021, 08:34:11 AM »
You could put some thin cuts across from top to bottom on the inside of the wood.  That way you would be loading the outside in tension but the compression on the inner half of the wood would be reduced.  It will reduce the overall strength of the wood but at least it should reduce the tension on your bolts.
Probably your best bet!
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Todd j

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #343 on: October 27, 2021, 09:24:41 PM »
Json, I was admiring the paint job at the waterline.  Photos on P21 IIRC.  I have some questions for you please.
 First have you floated her yet to see where the waterline ends up  on the hull?
 Did you you use Brian's prescription in the manual to lay out the waterline?
 How high up the hull from the chine flat at the transom did you level your waterline?

I plan on painting the hull much like you did.  I am worried a bit about the area of the paint that borders the bottom treatment.  Alexseal paint is not rated for immersion.  I dont want a failure in the paint if I have the boat in the water for weeks at a time.

json

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Re: Outdoor build of GA Kodiak, Orange, CA
« Reply #344 on: November 02, 2021, 12:31:46 PM »
Json, I was admiring the paint job at the waterline.  Photos on P21 IIRC.  I have some questions for you please.
 First have you floated her yet to see where the waterline ends up  on the hull?
 Did you you use Brian's prescription in the manual to lay out the waterline?
 How high up the hull from the chine flat at the transom did you level your waterline?

I plan on painting the hull much like you did.  I am worried a bit about the area of the paint that borders the bottom treatment.  Alexseal paint is not rated for immersion.  I dont want a failure in the paint if I have the boat in the water for weeks at a time.

Todd - I haven't floated her yet. I approximated by measuring an offset of which I forget where I got it and added a little for good measure. I don't intend on leaving the boat in the water very often so if it's below the waterline because I am running heavy then... idk, I guess I hope that it doesn't cause problems. I just measured the offset and I went with 6" at the transom, of which I believe the recommendation was 4, with a couple added on for insurance. Keep in mind kodiak chines are going to cause the boat to float higher for same displacement, so make sure you use the correct one if Brian has them referenced in the manual... I also used graphite in epoxy for the bottom, so I didn't have to worry about painting over ablative bottom paint like it sounds like you are going to have to do. Maybe call or email alexseal and ask how to do that if you are going with their paint.