Author Topic: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado  (Read 16975 times)

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Djeffrey

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28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« on: February 21, 2019, 06:27:29 PM »
Wood is on its way

Brian.Dixon

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Re: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« Reply #1 on: February 22, 2019, 05:54:59 AM »

Looks like a boat to me!   ;D
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Djeffrey

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Re: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2019, 09:03:24 PM »
Brian, sorry for the crude drawing, not a high tech guy. This is what I came up with for the transom. Wanted to get your thoughts. I want to raise the rear deck 4 inches as many others have, the rear platform will be that same height. Drain scuppers will drain out of deck as shown. On the left of the drawing is a question mark. I am not sure what that distance should be to allow the motor to tilt up safely.Can you help me with that and any other thoughts.
Thanks dj

Brian.Dixon

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Re: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« Reply #3 on: February 23, 2019, 08:24:36 AM »
I think you're picture is very good .. very clear!  In any case, Sheet 021a Drywell provides your answer (below).  The 30-1/8" shown is a generic distance that accommodates all motors and would be the distance you need at the top.  Applying a little trigonometry and measurements from Sheets 008a and 008b (transom loftings), you get your question mark distance as about 4- inches less than the 30-1/8".  Your question mark distance is about 26".  This assumes the top of your forward transom is rounded as in my original no-cutout transom layout.  You can probably shorten the bracket length (question mark dimension) to 24" if your forward transom has a flat top - what I would recommend.  If you have a motor selected, then get the tech drawings from the manufacturer, likely available online, and they'll show trim/tilt angles and dimensions that will help you refine the answer further. 

« Last Edit: February 23, 2019, 08:27:52 AM by Brian.Dixon »
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Djeffrey

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Re: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« Reply #4 on: February 23, 2019, 08:35:49 AM »
Thanks Brian, do you think the thickness of the transom and secondary transom is thick enough. Is this design going to effect the performance of the boat you designed?

Brian.Dixon

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Re: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« Reply #5 on: February 23, 2019, 09:43:54 AM »
Thanks Brian, do you think the thickness of the transom and secondary transom is thick enough. Is this design going to effect the performance of the boat you designed?

2 inch thick transom w/motor hanging off and a forward transom that is 1 inch thick?  It'll work fine.  Keep in mind that the curvature that you are adding gives the transom more strength as well.  The main deck inside the boat is glued/glassed in, as is the deck on the swim platform, and the main stringers are extended through to the aft transom.  It'll be strong.  Keep in mind that you'll need access to the lower motor mount bolts.  They'll end up under the swim platform deck, so make sure you put both a transom drain into the bottom of the aft transom and a reasonable deck plate on the swim platform so you can get to those bolts.  Deck plates on horizontal surfaces always leak, hence the reason for the drain.  You can use a screw-down, with gasket, homemade deck plate that'll be leak-proof, but harder to remove when you want to.  Commercial grade aluminum ones are available but spendy.  I would just pick up a Bomar or equivalent and let it leak a little ... just open the drain and throw the plug inside the transom extension/bracket while the boat's parked.

Brian
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Djeffrey

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Re: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2019, 06:09:33 PM »
A little progress today
« Last Edit: February 26, 2019, 06:11:29 PM by Djeffrey »

Brian.Dixon

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Re: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2019, 06:17:04 AM »
 Nice work!  Feels good to get going, doesn't it?  I like your shop too :)

Brian
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Djeffrey

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Re: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2019, 08:40:50 AM »
I know its a long haul, but it is nice to get started. I have been planing and researching a build like this for over 15 years. I am giving myself a launch date of summer 2020. Plan on taking my time and really enjoying the build. I want to do it right.

Djeffrey

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Re: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« Reply #9 on: February 27, 2019, 04:06:39 PM »
Ready for glass. Cutting went really well

Brian.Dixon

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Re: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2019, 06:16:08 PM »

From here, they look beautiful ... perfect!  Nice job!  Those beams are heavy, aren't they?  :)
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Djeffrey

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Re: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2019, 08:22:27 PM »
They are very heavy. Going to be a job getting them in the planer to remove the wax.

Brian.Dixon

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Re: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« Reply #12 on: February 28, 2019, 06:10:33 AM »
They are very heavy. Going to be a job getting them in the planer to remove the wax.

I thought you had a power hand planer?  Seems like that would be the easiest .... go buy a nice Bosch one if you don't already have one

bd
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Todd j

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Re: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« Reply #13 on: February 28, 2019, 06:45:25 AM »
 CAn someone elaborate on the wax deal?  My supplier told me the lvl were not coated.  I asked.  I did plane the paint off the edges of the transom pieces. Is it necessary to skin the faces before glass?  Sorry for the hi jack   

Brian.Dixon

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Re: 28 GA in Pagosa Springs colorado
« Reply #14 on: February 28, 2019, 08:18:10 AM »
CAn someone elaborate on the wax deal?  My supplier told me the lvl were not coated.  I asked.  I did plane the paint off the edges of the transom pieces. Is it necessary to skin the faces before glass?  Sorry for the hi jack

Some brands of LVL have a wax coating since they are used in semi-outdoor locations such as shops and garages, but some brands are just naked wood .... same exact product, but no coating.  Since the waxy coating can interfere with epoxy adhesion, it needs to be removed if it's present.  To avoid grinding it into the wood by sanding, the best method for removing it is to use a planer that has it's cut depth set to just 'skin off' the wax layer and cut into fresh wood 'just a little'.

The LVL used in the Great Alaskan are over-strong, so skinning off a little wood is OK.  Also, as long as the majority of the wax is skinned off (some will remain in crevices and low spots) with a planer first, it's OK to then hand-sand the few spots where wax may remain.  Hand sand the rounded top corners of the LVL (opposite the beveled edge).  Epoxy and glass as usual.  Many waxed LVL beams have been used successfully following these instructions.  Also note that Douglas Fir -or- Southern Yellow Pine (SYP) is fine.  Some regions provide LVL made from one, some from the other.  The wax coating seems to be a regional thing.  If you have to order your LVL, ask if they can get Boise Cascade brand LVL ... no wax coating on those.

Brian

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