Author Topic: ANNOUNCEMENT - THE GREAT ALASKAN KODIAK MODEL ADDENDUM IS NOW AVAILABLE!!  (Read 2155 times)

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Brian.Dixon

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ANNOUNCEMENT - THE GREAT ALASKAN KODIAK MODEL ADDENDUM IS NOW AVAILABLE!! At almost 9-1/2' wide by up to 30' long, beefed up for commercial and/or serious recreational use, there is no other boat on the market like it!

Enjoy!
Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by anyone! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((>

json

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Thank you Brian for working hard to get this out. I can't wait to see what the Kodiak entails. :)

Brian.Dixon

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Thank you Brian for working hard to get this out. I can't wait to see what the Kodiak entails. :)

Thanks!  It took a solid 40 hours of concentrated work to get the Kodiak addendum done.  Only about 6 pages of text, but 12 new drawings.  I'll make them available in printed forms before too long... Need to figure out typical shipping costs so I can price the printed version appropriately.  I've got one addendum printed up, drawings engineer-folded, and cover sheet ready for binding - I expect to get a binding price and shipping price within a week or two.

Brian
The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by anyone! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((>

Alpine74

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Wow, looks great Brian. 

json

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Brian, I have my chine flats from the standard version measurements created. I was looking over the addendum last night, and I am hoping to retrofit the chine flats to the wider version. Do you have any suggestions about how to go about it? I was thinking about just cutting out the extra width out of 18mm and then just gluing them together but I don't know that that would be a very strong way of building them. Todd suggested lofting the chines out on 1/4" ply and then adding the extra width on top of that, so there is that option too. I think the easiest way would probably be the first option if it seems like it would be sufficiently strong. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Jason

Brian.Dixon

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Brian, I have my chine flats from the standard version measurements created. I was looking over the addendum last night, and I am hoping to retrofit the chine flats to the wider version. Do you have any suggestions about how to go about it? I was thinking about just cutting out the extra width out of 18mm and then just gluing them together but I don't know that that would be a very strong way of building them. Todd suggested lofting the chines out on 1/4" ply and then adding the extra width on top of that, so there is that option too. I think the easiest way would probably be the first option if it seems like it would be sufficiently strong. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Jason

If it were me, I'd just buy some new 3/4" plywood and loft out some new wider chine flats.  That said, perhaps another route would be to loft out the inner line of the chine flats again, lay your original chine flats along this line, then loft out the new outside line.  The strongest way to make wood wider is with a scarf, but another way that's 99.9% the same is a good rabbet joint - Look at the Kodiak Addendum transom blank for an idea of what this looks like - the curved shape of the chine flats will make this hard though.  Again, if it were me, I'd eat the (relatively minor) cost and just make new chine flats, even if you just buy exterior grade douglas fir plywood.

You're building a 28' boat, right?  Right now is a good time to widen it up and make it into a 28-foot Kodiak model.  The Kodiak can be built as short as 27' too, if that's where you're at with yours.  Have you made the stem and transom yet?  They are also different .... the stem is longer, and the transom is wider, has wider chine flats, and is taller.  Personally, I figure a little extra cost in buying wood again is a fairly cheap upgrade overall - I'd go for it (except I'd probably stick with whatever length the bottom panels were cut for - although the wood can be recovered and used in other boat parts at this point.)

Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by anyone! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((>

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Fabricating new sub-components is probably the way to go, I think you are right. I am really just trying to save a bit of time on redoing the work, but it's a small price to pay for almost a foot more width and the extra onboard space that comes with it. Yes, my bottom assembly and stringers are built for 28', so I think I am going to stay close to that. I might get a little bit more length out of it when all is said and done but 28' is the current target. I have stem, transom, chines, shelves all built for the standard version and pretty much ready to install but I think I am going to just redo them as I need them (maybe I can build them faster/better the second time around :) ). The extra cost is nothing compared to the benefits of the upgrade, so ya, here we go again!

Brian.Dixon

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Fabricating new sub-components is probably the way to go, I think you are right. I am really just trying to save a bit of time on redoing the work, but it's a small price to pay for almost a foot more width and the extra onboard space that comes with it. Yes, my bottom assembly and stringers are built for 28', so I think I am going to stay close to that. I might get a little bit more length out of it when all is said and done but 28' is the current target. I have stem, transom, chines, shelves all built for the standard version and pretty much ready to install but I think I am going to just redo them as I need them (maybe I can build them faster/better the second time around :) ). The extra cost is nothing compared to the benefits of the upgrade, so ya, here we go again!

Cool!  This will put you in the lead for putting the first Kodiak on the water!  Time lost is your only cost though - You'll find use for the wood that will end up 'extra' from the first build.  Lots of parts in the boat can use it up :D

Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by anyone! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((>

Todd j

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Would us that arectoo far to go big benefit from the addendum in any way?  Your  .02.  Storage Strengthening or equipment rigging mounting points

Brian.Dixon

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Would us that arectoo far to go big benefit from the addendum in any way?  Your  .02.  Storage Strengthening or equipment rigging mounting points

I doubt it ... the extra strength changes include slightly wider shelves under the sheer decks, 5-1/2" instead of 5", plus a longitudinal web stringer down the centerline from the f'w'd tank to bow - which was already suggested in the original plans.  As for the gear mounting, the addendum explains widening the cockpit sheer decks to 10-12 inches and blocking-in the shelving under the sheer decks to the same width as the sheer decks - this adds strength and allows through-bolting heavy haulers and outrigger mounts.  These are things that anyone can do.  The difference is that for a 30-foot boat, I wanted to hedge the hull stiffness upwards a tad - but it's a small change.  The Great Alaskan is overly strong by far as it is.

Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by anyone! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((>

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Brian, when you get a moment can you check the outer line lofting numbers for sheet A006 on the kodiak plans (chine flats)? Specifically between stations 132" and 148"ish there is a jump between a width of 4 1/2" and about 6 1/2" that just doesn't seem to fit. There was also a point in a lower station on the outer line that looked to be about 1/8" to about 1/4" off, if you would like that station specifically to look at it let me know and I can look (I don't have it onhand right this moment). Thanks!

Brian.Dixon

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Brian, when you get a moment can you check the outer line lofting numbers for sheet A006 on the kodiak plans (chine flats)? Specifically between stations 132" and 148"ish there is a jump between a width of 4 1/2" and about 6 1/2" that just doesn't seem to fit. There was also a point in a lower station on the outer line that looked to be about 1/8" to about 1/4" off, if you would like that station specifically to look at it let me know and I can look (I don't have it onhand right this moment). Thanks!

Uh oh!  The honeymoon's over!

I can see what happened .... the stations from 132" and earlier have the original outer-line offsets in them.  I some how missed that.  Unfortunately, I can't fix that from here at work and will need to work on it tonight when I get home ... and will post here when fixed.  (And email everyone who's purchased the Addendum ... hate to see anyone possibly waste wood!)

On the second point, the one where it looks like a point on the outer line is 1/4" to 1/8" off ... which station is it?  The fix above will fix it for the Kodiak, but it's possible that the standard Great Alaskan drawing needs a fix too.  I can double check that one too.

Thanks for spotting the errors and pointing them out!

Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by anyone! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((>

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Hey Brian, no worries, the other station is 60", the outer line states an offset of 30 7/8", when I was lofting it that point looked more like about 31", however I was trying to loft the entire chine layout into a single piece of doorskin (with stations and my baseline being a bit all over the place) so it could be user error, but all the rest of the points lined up nicely with each other. Anyways, thanks for having a look at this, it's pretty awesome that you are so attentive to the community's efforts.

Brian.Dixon

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Hey Brian, no worries, the other station is 60", the outer line states an offset of 30 7/8", when I was lofting it that point looked more like about 31", however I was trying to loft the entire chine layout into a single piece of doorskin (with stations and my baseline being a bit all over the place) so it could be user error, but all the rest of the points lined up nicely with each other. Anyways, thanks for having a look at this, it's pretty awesome that you are so attentive to the community's efforts.

No problem.  I'll double check the offsets at Station 60"....

Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by anyone! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((>

Brian.Dixon

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FYI - Sheet A006 Chine Flat Loftings has been updated online and for new purchasers.  The outer chine line offsets in the table of offsets had the original Great Alaskan offsets rather than the wider Kodiak model offsets - this has now been fixed.  Owners of the Kodiak Addendum have been sent the updated PDF drawing.

Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by anyone! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((>