Author Topic: GA28 in Silverton Oregon  (Read 3930 times)

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Grady300

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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #150 on: January 25, 2021, 12:17:08 PM »
Get some 50 cloth too.   You can cover full sheets of plywood without seems.  If I could go back in time I would nEver have bought any narrower cloth.  Just my .02.  Doesnt hurt to have options though
Good advice Todd. I had both sizes left over from another build I never finished. The 50" was way more versatile, if you are buying a smaller size for a specific use then that makes sense just don't get a lot of extra IMHO. 
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rhenryinoregon

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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #151 on: January 25, 2021, 01:05:20 PM »
So when you say some, roughly what are you talking? Just for the exterior hull and maybe parts of the cabin? Im not terribly concerned about the interior hull bottom, or should I be?   Noahs had the best prices by far on fabric but they are way behind on shipments.
Randy Henry, SILVERTON Oregon
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Todd j

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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #152 on: January 25, 2021, 06:18:11 PM »
I usually roughly using head scratch math think about what I have next to glass.  For instance you will use at least 4 sheets for the deck.  Preglass the top and bottom of each sheet.  Thats 64 feet right there.  I did 6 on bottom and 10 oz on top.  Preglass pilothouse bulkhead.  Fore and aft. Thats another 50 feet.  Pilothouse side panels 4 sheets-ish.  You get the idea.  60 linear feet of each in 6 and 10 oz is a good starting point.  All the left over chunks are already glassed and ready to use elsewhere.  For me its cheap enough I dont care if bits wind up in the trash.  My time is too valuable.  I like to glass one side of a sheet at the end of a work session.  End of next session do the other side.   Then you always have a sheet or two ready to rip.  Same goes for all the extra stringers.  The list goes on.  I would never buy the 30 cloth if I could do over.  You can even use up the scrap pieces of cloth on under deck parts where the overlap doesnt need fairing. 
  I think Brian should add it to the BOM its super useful
  My .02
Also.  I use Foberglass Supply.  Sometimes I take delivery the next day and Im west of eugene

Grady300

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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #153 on: January 25, 2021, 06:23:39 PM »
So when you say some, roughly what are you talking? Just for the exterior hull and maybe parts of the cabin? Im not terribly concerned about the interior hull bottom, or should I be?   Noahs had the best prices by far on fabric but they are way behind on shipments.

You will find the 50" cloth to give you the best yield with less seams which means less sanding.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2021, 06:24:02 PM by Grady300 »
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rhenryinoregon

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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #154 on: January 26, 2021, 09:26:04 AM »
Latest video on glassing the chines and fair body. It went down very well!

https://youtu.be/LU29JDLgdDM
« Last Edit: January 26, 2021, 09:52:36 AM by rhenryinoregon »
Randy Henry, SILVERTON Oregon
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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #155 on: January 26, 2021, 09:46:24 AM »
Lookin good! Nice work...

Rbob

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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #156 on: January 26, 2021, 11:41:13 AM »
On the Epoxy from E-bond, I found the 1285/1285 better for fillets and smaller tasks, for glassing large panels 1285/1289 is far easier, thinner and wets out glass faster and no rushing.   

Todd j

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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #157 on: January 26, 2021, 12:51:11 PM »
I think it's pretty cool that your doing the video updates.  I'm quite a bit further along and enjoy watching and reflecting.   Just a friendly reminder to saturate the endgrain with unthickened epoxy on those joints before you glue them together.
  Looks like your having fun

rhenryinoregon

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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #158 on: January 26, 2021, 12:57:45 PM »
Thanks for the reminder. I did brush in epoxy on all the joints as part of the pre-wetting and it seemed like they were pretty well saturated. Ive also done the entire perimeter (chines) and will hit them again when the bottom gets rolled.
Randy Henry, SILVERTON Oregon
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Brian.Dixon

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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #159 on: January 26, 2021, 02:19:41 PM »
Thanks for the reminder. I did brush in epoxy on all the joints as part of the pre-wetting and it seemed like they were pretty well saturated. Ive also done the entire perimeter (chines) and will hit them again when the bottom gets rolled.

That's what extra epoxy is for ... when you finish glassing something, or saturating end grain on something, and you find you have extra epoxy ... keep applying it to available end grain ... and if nothing else, paint it onto something - extra epoxy doesn't hurt.  Don't waste it!
The Great Alaskan - Professional performance - Easy to build! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((>

rhenryinoregon

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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #160 on: January 27, 2021, 09:06:06 PM »
Im now seeing that I made another mistake or two. Ive got to be better about following the instructions (which I read over and over)! I glassed the fair body all the way to the end, and I added an extra layer of glass on the chines. I suspect I can deal with the fair body error and in the end the extra glass on the chine wont hurt, just unnecessary. Correct me if Im wrong, Brian. 🙄
Randy Henry, SILVERTON Oregon
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Grady300

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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #161 on: January 28, 2021, 07:54:30 AM »
Im now seeing that I made another mistake or two. Ive got to be better about following the instructions (which I read over and over)! I glassed the fair body all the way to the end, and I added an extra layer of glass on the chines. I suspect I can deal with the fair body error and in the end the extra glass on the chine wont hurt, just unnecessary. Correct me if Im wrong, Brian. 🙄
Randy, you are correct I noticed the fairbady seam being glassed the whole way, no big deal. If you haven't been to Harbour Freight yet to get there cheap small hand held grinder with 36 grit flapper sand disk, go get one best $50 you will ever spend. It will make quick work of ANY grinding job you have. Extra glas on the chine perfect but like you say not necessary. I take every chance I get to overlap a seam if I can, I don't just want bulletproof I want crash proof ya never know what's 6" under the surface. See ya Saturday if ya make it
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Rbob

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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #162 on: January 28, 2021, 09:00:54 AM »
Randy,

Funny I did the same thing, glassing all the way to the end of the fairbody, I am sure others have or will.  Chuck gave good advice on removing the fillet but to remove just the glass its quite easy.  A strait edge to make a cut in the glass and a heat gun to soften the epoxy enough to get the glass to pull off.  Once you can get a scraper or putty knife under the edge of the glass you can grab a hold of it and pull while using a heat gun along the edge you are pulling.

Brian.Dixon

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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #163 on: January 28, 2021, 02:35:52 PM »
Im now seeing that I made another mistake or two. Ive got to be better about following the instructions (which I read over and over)! I glassed the fair body all the way to the end, and I added an extra layer of glass on the chines. I suspect I can deal with the fair body error and in the end the extra glass on the chine wont hurt, just unnecessary. Correct me if Im wrong, Brian. 🙄

You guys are working too hard!  The bottom panel assembly rests on the (upside down) transom when it's installed.  I would just trim the bottom edge of the transom to fit the shape of the fillet/glass that went all the way to the end.  Stay away from hot epoxy!

Extra glass is just extra weight, and not much at that.  This isn't a canoe!  Keep on truckin'... Git'r done, Billy Bob!

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Rbob

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Re: GA28 in Silverton Oregon
« Reply #164 on: January 29, 2021, 03:08:15 PM »
That is so simple, I  cant believe I didn't think of it!  LOL.