Author Topic: 28' GA in Indiana  (Read 4340 times)

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Grady300

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Re: 28' GA in Indiana
« Reply #15 on: April 18, 2022, 08:44:22 AM »
Thanks for the help, Brian. Would it be acceptable to use LVL material for the stem?
I use LVL in my kits for everything that is not plywood. it cost a lot more but worth it IMHO!!!
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DougM

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Re: 28' GA in Indiana
« Reply #16 on: December 06, 2022, 11:33:48 AM »
I am placing the stringers in position onto the temporary framing and through the slots in the transom. I made a mark at 21' 5-1/2" (for a 28' boat) from the pointed tip of the stringers onto the deck side (flat edge). If I align this mark where the outer face of the transom meets the flat side of the stringers, the pointed tips of my stringers are approximately 57-1/2" aft of the bow tip. I'm checking to see if I am in the ballpark.

Brian.Dixon

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Re: 28' GA in Indiana
« Reply #17 on: June 24, 2023, 07:50:24 AM »

Any updates on this project?  The 28' Standard GA is a real sweet spot in terms of boat length ... is the project still alive?  Inquiring minds have a need to know ... :D



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DougM

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Re: 28' GA in Indiana
« Reply #18 on: November 26, 2024, 02:56:31 PM »
Brian, I am still working on my 28' Prince Rupert but I am waaaay behind schedule. Not enough hours in the day. I hope to be installing the spray rails this weekend. Are the strakes required if I don't plan on beaching my boat? Do they improve the boat tracking or handling?
I haven't made up my mind yet on hard bottom paint or graphite impregnated epoxy. I tested some graphite epoxy on some scrap plywood and it seemed to scratch easily, what is your preference?

Brian.Dixon

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Re: 28' GA in Indiana
« Reply #19 on: November 27, 2024, 09:57:57 AM »

Nope ... you can leave the 3 bottom strakes off if you aren't going to be beaching the boat.  As for bottom paint, the general rule is a) if your boat's a trailer sailer then go with paint or graphite-impregnated epoxy, b) if your boat will just spend up to 6 weeks or so in a slip each year, then use hard anti-fouling paint/coating, and c) if you will keep your boat in a slip all the time, then go the soft ablative anti-fouling instead.  The hard anti-fouling can be refreshed as needed, and the same goes for the black graphite bottom.  Soft anti-fouling is generally re-applied annually, but that depends on where your boat is kept (how much growth and shellfish attachment occurs each year).  Also be aware that anti-fouling is often a regulated product and some bays have rules on what you can and cannot use, usually do the presence of sensitive marine life in the area, ex) commercial oyster beds or designated 'marine aquariums'.
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Dan Boccia

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Re: 28' GA in Indiana
« Reply #20 on: November 27, 2024, 12:49:43 PM »
In addition to Brian's useful guidelines, a graphite hull will be a slight bit more efficient than one with soft ablative anti-foul bottom paint. It's hard and slick.
I have graphite and even after carefully breaking through up to an inch of ice, beaching carefully several times on rounded rocks and/or sand, and generally some decent use, it's still in excellent shape. I've been impressed with its durability. I did ding it once in one small spot and it was easy to patch with Quick Fair and touch up. Highly recommended if you're not in a slip.